Ask the experts

[skaredshtles]

Attachment 461970
<snip> Is it possible to add a 1Up dropper post to this bike?

Pretty sure you can still buy droppers (maybe not 1Up?) with external cable routing. I'd go that route before drilling holes in carbon.

[J. Barron DeJong]

Hey, is my pivot bearing supposed to look like this?

[simple]

Everyone probably has an externally routed dropper gathering dust on their shelf. No need to buy a new one.

You'll need a seatpost spacer for that Specialized proprietary nonsense.

[g_man80]

Yep I have learned to constantly check B tension since running XT last few years. Yes lots of thumb force needed. I'll put a new cable in tonight or tomorrow and see if that helps.

As climberevan suggested, check movement of the derailleur when you disconnect the cable. I’ve read reports of seized or stiff parallelogram pivots.

[joetron]

Yeah WRG, a drop of lube on all the rd pivots would be a good idea after a sloppy day.
And seems like you already know this, but it’s super easy to over tighten the cable shield and bind the cables.
Look for weird kinks in the housing when you replace it. Maybe add a little bit of length to it when you swap it?


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[Roxtar]

I'll put a new cable in tonight or tomorrow and see if that helps.

First start by disconnecting at the der and feeling if the cable slides freely.

[Gerome]

Everyone probably has an externally routed dropper gathering dust on their shelf. No need to buy a new one.

You'll need a seatpost spacer for that Specialized proprietary nonsense.

Interesting, I thought the seat post was a standard 30.9mm diameter. Am I not understanding something?


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[simple]

Interesting, I thought the seat post was a standard 30.9mm diameter. Am I not understanding something?


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Don't make that assumption. Specialized used 34.9 forever

[Gerome]

Ok, thanks for the heads up. I’ll check before I buy anything


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[EWG]

Hey, is my pivot bearing supposed to look like this?

It's supposed to have a race cover protecting the bearings. is it stuck on the other side?

[J. Barron DeJong]

It's supposed to have a race cover protecting the bearings. is it stuck on the other side?

Nah. Pivot had some play, and when I took it apart the seal on that side had popped out of the bearing somehow.

Should have included this or /s

[EWG]

Nah. Pivot had some play, and when I took it apart the seal on that side had popped out of the bearing somehow.

Should have included this or /s

Yeah, or I should have known you were being a smartass. Duh.

[J. Barron DeJong]

Yeah, or I should have known you were being a smartass. Duh.

*dumbass

[teledad]

Everyone probably has an externally routed dropper gathering dust on their shelf. No need to buy a new one.

You'll need a seatpost spacer for that Specialized proprietary nonsense.

If you need to go new, PNW makes a decent external dropper (Cascade).

I've also gone the drill route with a carbon hardtail that had internal routing for a front derailleur cable but not a dropper. I re-used the front derailleur routing and then drilled a hole in the back of the seat tube a few inches above the BB. You can still see a bit of cable but it's mostly tucked away, and is still holding up several years later. But an external dropper is a lot less work.

[Huskier]

My guess is that, for the initial issue, the negative chamber just hadn't charged yet and you needed to cycle the fork a bit to get the chambers to equalize. No big deal - that's normal.

For the shock wiz reading high, I wonder if your valve core is bad. Quick and easy to replace the core.

Many thanks, does seem like a bad core getting swapped out.

More suspension woes: I set about to add a spacer to my X2 Evol. Step one: Release air. Anddddd it's stuck down. Shit. Adding air causes it to (reluctantly) re-extend, but now I can't help but wonder if I no longer have a negative chamber. Are there circumstances where it could be stuck down that -don't- relate to air getting stuck in the negative chamber?

[toast2266]

Many thanks, does seem like a bad core getting swapped out.

More suspension woes: I set about to add a spacer to my X2 Evol. Step one: Release air. Anddddd it's stuck down. Shit. Adding air causes it to (reluctantly) re-extend, but now I can't help but wonder if I no longer have a negative chamber. Are there circumstances where it could be stuck down that -don't- relate to air getting stuck in the negative chamber?

It's 99% likely that it's air stuck in the negative chamber. There's a port that allows air to pass from the positive to negative chambers. If that port gets gummed up with old grease or whatever, it can prevent air from transferring between the chambers. It's not a huge deal and it's a pretty easy fix with an air can service.

[Gunder]

It's 99% likely that it's air stuck in the negative chamber. There's a port that allows air to pass from the positive to negative chambers. If that port gets gummed up with old grease or whatever, it can prevent air from transferring between the chambers. It's not a huge deal and it's a pretty easy fix with an air can service.

I’d try to clean it with suspension clean first.

An X2 can take a bit to tear down.

A “basic” seal change on it is 25 seals! Plus you need to properly bleed the shock (syringe works great) and set the IFP if the suspension clean trick doesn’t work.

The resi chamber specs 100psi of back pressure on it. If that looses pressure the ifp position can change and also result in a stuck down situation.

The X2 requires at a minimum a bleed adapter, a resivor air adapter, a negative air sleeve shaft clamp and either a 9mm or ⅜” shaft clamp ( depending on the year.) plus a inner shaft 4 pin socket and a 3 prong BB wrench in order to service it. Not too mention some brass O-ring tools. With the proper tools it’s a 45 min job.

[nickwm21]

What’s with all these multitools without chain breakers? Does everyone just pedal like Angela Lansbury, am I the only orangutan out there?


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[simple]

What’s with all these multitools without chain breakers? Does everyone just pedal like Angela Lansbury, am I the only orangutan out there?


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Chains got skinnier but they also either got stronger or under less side load due to 1x drivetrains.

Either way haven't broken one in a long long time. I still carry the tool and a quick link just in case.

Same with the motorcycle

[Tailwind]

Stand-alone pack pliers are now popular so that might be part of it. I have zero clue why… they don’t let you remove damaged links… you don’t need pliers to use quick links… and I’m never standing on the trail wanting to remove my chain.

I just carry a park tool chain tool in my repair kit.

What’s with all these multitools without chain breakers? Does everyone just pedal like Angela Lansbury, am I the only orangutan out there?


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[XXX-er]

Stand-alone pack pliers are now popular so that might be part of it. I have zero clue why… they don’t let you remove damaged links… you don’t need pliers to use quick links… and I’m never standing on the trail wanting to remove my chain.

I just carry a park tool chain tool in my repair kit.

I remember someone suggesting carrying a real park chain breaker in print becuz chain breakers on multi tools sucked, I think they are better now I have a breaker on a Filzer multi that seems to work fine

[Toddball]

Having some issues setting up a brand new set of Hayes Dominion A4s. I have the pro bleed kit and am following the procedure here.

The front brake seems great. I bled the rear brake twice, and each time I would get DOT fluid leaking out of the bleed port/syringe interface at the master cylinder when applying pressure to that syringe. Not enough to spray, thankfully, but definitely dripped a few CCs on my porch. When I try to pull a light vacuum in the master cylinder syringe and hold the caliper syringe stationary, I pull quite a bit of air into the master cylinder syringe. I interpret this as air leaking into the system in the master cylinder bleed port/syringe interface, the reverse of the DOT fluid leak.

Has anyone ever had this problem? The only thing I can think of is the bleed port is oversized or damaged, but maybe I'm doing something boneheaded.

[Gunder]

Having some issues setting up a brand new set of Hayes Dominion A4s. I have the pro bleed kit and am following the procedure here.

The front brake seems great. I bled the rear brake twice, and each time I would get DOT fluid leaking out of the bleed port/syringe interface at the master cylinder when applying pressure to that syringe. Not enough to spray, thankfully, but definitely dripped a few CCs on my porch. When I try to pull a light vacuum in the master cylinder syringe and hold the caliper syringe stationary, I pull quite a bit of air into the master cylinder syringe. I interpret this as air leaking into the system in the master cylinder bleed port/syringe interface, the reverse of the DOT fluid leak.

Has anyone ever had this problem? The only thing I can think of is the bleed port is oversized or damaged, but maybe I'm doing something boneheaded.

Assuming you are using the correct adapter, it’s common for the prongs on the bleed adapters to wear out. Just need to change out the print on the syringe.

[XXX-er]

I had DOT leaking around brand new tubing where it was connected to a brand new syringe on a bleed kit, what i did was use a couple of small zip ties around the tube at the offending leak and the bleed went fine

[Toddball]

Assuming you are using the correct adapter, it’s common for the prongs on the bleed adapters to wear out. Just need to change out the print on the syringe.

Hmm okay. That's a little disappointing given that both the brakes and the bleed kit are brand new.

This is the adapter I have: