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Thread: Ask the experts

  1. #2601
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
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    SLC burbs
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dantheman View Post
    In that case, rubber cement is available at a lot of places besides auto parts stores.
    Then I'm saved!
    Now to find the patch kit, the entire content of our house is out on the back patio while the new floors are being installed and I don't know that I left the box of bike parts in a particularly accessible spot...
    "Your wife being mad is temporary, but pow turns do not get unmade" - mallwalker the wise

  2. #2602
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    Mar 2008
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    northern BC
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    way back in the day at the corner garage i can remember gluing patches on the inside of car tires, then we would brush the glue on the patch, light it on fire for 10-15 sec ,blow it out and we called that a hot patch ... seemed to work

    For the price of a tire patch kit vs walking out I just replace the patch kit every year cuz once the glue tube has been openned its gona dry out pretty quick , I swap innertubes take them home, use up the old patch kits in the comfort of my shop with a drink, I always have a new kit on every bike and I try to use up the old kits
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  3. #2603
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
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    5,013
    Quote Originally Posted by Dantheman View Post
    In that case, rubber cement is available at a lot of places besides auto parts stores.
    Like the grocery store. Even convenience stores often have tire patch kits.

  4. #2604
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
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    Eugenio Oregón
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    Quote Originally Posted by SchralphMacchio View Post
    Actually I was just about to ask this question too ...

    I’m running an RWC bottom bracket (also with Race Face crankset) on my main bike but not sure I wanna throw down that much for a BB for my hardtail which is my second bike/loaner bike. I might end up there anyways as this is also my winter bike - but want to explore other options first.
    Anyone have epinions on this?
    _______________________________________________
    "Strapping myself to a sitski built with 30lb of metal and fibreglass then trying to water ski in it sounds like a stupid idea to me.

    I'll be there."
    ... Andy Campbell

  5. #2605
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    Feb 2014
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    NorCal coast
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    Quote Originally Posted by SchralphMacchio View Post
    Anyone have epinions on this?
    You could justify another durable BB (RWC, CC Hellbender, etc.) by saying you could swap it to your main bike if/when the main bike one wears out. The fact that it's a winter bike means it deserves good bearings.

  6. #2606
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
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    Shadynasty's Jazz Club
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    Shimano BB every time if possible. Dirt cheap and serviceable so they have the potential to last a while.
    Remind me. We'll send him a red cap and a Speedo.

  7. #2607
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
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    Treading Water
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    Ask the experts

    Quote Originally Posted by SchralphMacchio View Post
    Well, I personally wouldn’t fuck around with a sidewall tear and just chalk it up to a loss.
    I’ve patched loads of tires with regular tube patches and maybe a couple tires with auto patches. Alway set up tubeless again, even in sidewall and right up against the bead. Never had one fail, even when I could see the patch pushing out through the hole (after inflating to 40psi)
    Usually the decision isn’t so much “too cheap to replace” as much as “too cheap and/or lack of foresight” to have new rubber lying around. Oh, and too cheap to pay $100 for a tire at the LBS that I can get online for $50 and get the actual tread/width/rubber/layup that I want.
    Even when a replacement arrives, I usually shelf it and ride the old one out until the tread is ready to go.

    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    Last edited by jm2e; 10-14-2020 at 01:49 PM.
    However many are in a shit ton.

  8. #2608
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    Jan 2019
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    Quote Originally Posted by jm2e View Post
    I’ve patched loads of tires with regular tube patches and maybe a couple tires with auto patches.
    Usually the decision isn’t so much “too cheap to replace” as much as “too cheap and/or lack of foresight” to have new rubber lying around. Oh, and too cheap to pay $100 for a tire at the LBS that I can get online for $50 and get the actual tread/width/rubber/layup that I want.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    Yeah I've had good success with normal vulcanizing (not the stick on kind) tube patches on quite a few occasions. Just clean the inside of the tire well.

  9. #2609
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    Oct 2002
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    If the tire still rolls straight, it's worth trying to salvage, IMO. If it's bad enough to have a significant wiggle or hop, it's gotta go cause that shit's just gonna get worse.
    Remind me. We'll send him a red cap and a Speedo.

  10. #2610
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
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    Eugenio Oregón
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    8,849
    That’s great feedback on the tire patches!

    Quote Originally Posted by bagtagley View Post
    Shimano BB every time if possible. Dirt cheap and serviceable so they have the potential to last a while.
    Cinch is 30mm right? Does Shimano make a Cinch compatible threaded BB? I’ve got a brand new chainring and color matched 165mm cranks so no chance I’m replacing the entire crankset ...
    _______________________________________________
    "Strapping myself to a sitski built with 30lb of metal and fibreglass then trying to water ski in it sounds like a stupid idea to me.

    I'll be there."
    ... Andy Campbell

  11. #2611
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    Sep 2009
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    in the trench
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    Quote Originally Posted by SchralphMacchio View Post
    That’s great feedback on the tire patches!



    Cinch is 30mm right? Does Shimano make a Cinch compatible threaded BB? I’ve got a brand new chainring and color matched 165mm cranks so no chance I’m replacing the entire crankset ...
    Shimano doesn't. Hope does and mine lasted really well

    Sent from my SM-G950W using TGR Forums mobile app

  12. #2612
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
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    2,771
    Quote Originally Posted by SchralphMacchio View Post
    That’s great feedback on the tire patches!



    Cinch is 30mm right? Does Shimano make a Cinch compatible threaded BB? I’ve got a brand new chainring and color matched 165mm cranks so no chance I’m replacing the entire crankset ...
    Wheels MFG also makes one that is well reviewed. I've gone through a couple RF BBs in the last few years and I've decided that the next time I blow one up I'm switching to Wheels or Hope. I take care of my bike, live on the east side of Washington and don't clean it with a pressure washer and yet I have to replace one every other year.

  13. #2613
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    Ive heard that about wheels mfg as well. Probably decent stock with them to. My hope went with a frame i sold but it was 3 years old when i sold it

    Sent from my SM-G950W using TGR Forums mobile app

  14. #2614
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
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    Seattle
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    Quote Originally Posted by John_B View Post
    Wheels MFG also makes one that is well reviewed. I've gone through a couple RF BBs in the last few years and I've decided that the next time I blow one up I'm switching to Wheels or Hope. I take care of my bike, live on the east side of Washington and don't clean it with a pressure washer and yet I have to replace one every other year.
    I live on the other side of WA and therefore replace mine a little more frequently. I had a 30mm wheels mfg and those bearings lasted longer than raceface for sure but they didn't really blow me away. I liked that I could just replace the bearings, but when you factor in the cost of their removal tool or something similar, the math doesn't work out until you've replaced it a few times.

  15. #2615
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
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    Eugenio Oregón
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    Thanks mags for the suggestions and feedback ...

    Soooo:
    * Hope 30mm threaded BB w/ stainless steel bearings = $108
    * Wheels MFG 30mm threaded BB
    Abec 3 - $73
    Angular Contact Bearing = $95
    Ceramic = $140
    * RWC 30mm threaded BB
    Chromium Steel ACB = $89
    Stainless Steel ACB = $110
    Ceramic ACB = $135

    Seems like I should just go RWC Stainless Steel ACB for $110 like I was originally thinking, heh. With the 30mm spindle and therefore smaller ball bearing size, I think having ACB helps even the bearing load and increase wear life. And stainless because ... shit its just an extra $20 and I hose my bike down a lot living in Western Oregon.

    When I was faced with this decision years ago on my Bronson after moving here, I actually can't remember if I went stainless or ceramic, hah! And having just pulled it and regreased it I'm too lazy to pull it and check the product code ... but I bet I went ceramic ...
    _______________________________________________
    "Strapping myself to a sitski built with 30lb of metal and fibreglass then trying to water ski in it sounds like a stupid idea to me.

    I'll be there."
    ... Andy Campbell

  16. #2616
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    NorCal coast
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    2,207
    You know, I think I have a 30mm Wheels ACB set in my drawer that I could let go if you're interested. I'll try to remember to double check tonight.

  17. #2617
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Way Out, CO
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    310
    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    way back in the day at the corner garage i can remember gluing patches on the inside of car tires, then we would brush the glue on the patch, light it on fire for 10-15 sec ,blow it out and we called that a hot patch ... seemed to work

    For the price of a tire patch kit vs walking out I just replace the patch kit every year cuz once the glue tube has been openned its gona dry out pretty quick , I swap innertubes take them home, use up the old patch kits in the comfort of my shop with a drink, I always have a new kit on every bike and I try to use up the old kits
    Those were called "sizzle patches" or "hot patches." Gemplers.com used to sell them (and may still - I dunnno), but I don't know about applying that much heat to a bike tire carcass vs a car tire.
    Regarding "rubber cement" I think one needs to be careful to be sure that it's vulcanizing cement. Craft stores sell "rubber cement" but it's for adhering such things as paper to posterboard, and I don't believe it's the same stuff. And FWIW, you can buy the vulcanizing cement in a small metal can with a brush-top lid that won't dry out nearly as quickly (esp. if you wrap the threads w/ teflon tape). Great for the shop!

  18. #2618
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
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    cow hampshire
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    9,268
    Quote Originally Posted by grinch View Post
    Us heathens put'm on 2 legs at a time

    Sent from my SM-G950W using TGR Forums mobile app


    I bought the Dakine thrillium pant. Haven't used them yet, but they seem pretty good.

  19. #2619
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    Sep 2009
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    in the trench
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    Quote Originally Posted by jackstraw View Post


    I bought the Dakine thrillium pant. Haven't used them yet, but they seem pretty good.
    Lots of features on those. Havent seen bike wear companies using schoeller. Looks like a solid option

    Sent from my SM-G950W using TGR Forums mobile app

  20. #2620
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    SE Idaho
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    2,164
    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    way back in the day at the corner garage i can remember gluing patches on the inside of car tires, then we would brush the glue on the patch, light it on fire for 10-15 sec ,blow it out and we called that a hot patch ... seemed to work

    For the price of a tire patch kit vs walking out I just replace the patch kit every year cuz once the glue tube has been openned its gona dry out pretty quick , I swap innertubes take them home, use up the old patch kits in the comfort of my shop with a drink, I always have a new kit on every bike and I try to use up the old kits
    I could swear that I used a vulcanizing bicycle patch kit that you actually lit with a match or a lighter when I was a kid. Anyone remember those? I recall there was a shallow aluminum tray with something that you would ignite with a match to vulcanize the rubber. Maybe my brain is playing tricks on me again though.

  21. #2621
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    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
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    33,689
    yeah i don't know if all rubber cement is created equal

    10 15 sec might be a high number just blow it out before the tire goes up
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  22. #2622
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
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    1,124
    Quote Originally Posted by grinch View Post
    Lots of features on those. Havent seen bike wear companies using schoeller. Looks like a solid option

    Sent from my SM-G950W using TGR Forums mobile app
    Kitsbow does, but $$$. I have Schoeller Dryskin -era Cloudveil that I love and want to keep going as long as I can.

  23. #2623
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    Quote Originally Posted by evasive_MT View Post
    Kitsbow does, but $$$. I have Schoeller Dryskin -era Cloudveil that I love and want to keep going as long as I can.
    I could see kitsbow using it. I wonder how well kitsbow does. I wouldve thought they priced themselves out of the market. I like understated design but i think theyve gone past that right to bland as well

    Sent from my SM-G950W using TGR Forums mobile app

  24. #2624
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Back in Seattle
    Posts
    1,500
    Any magic tricks for seating a tire on a dented rim? My e13 rim has a couple sizable dents in both the sidewalls and rim bead that don't seem to cause issues while riding but are preventing me from seating a tire to replace one that I cut. Was thinking of trying to score some fancy wheels this winter so would like to try and keep this one going a bit longer and would prefer not to use a tube. Clearly new rims will need inserts, maybe I can get away with a slightly lighter tire to compensate but the new england rocks are sharp.

  25. #2625
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Down In A Hole, Up in the Sky
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    36,484
    Bend it back?
    There aren’t really any other ‘tricks’ that I know about. I use a crescent wrench or Snap On duck bill pliers.
    Anyone else?
    Forum Cross Pollinator, gratuitously strident

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