"Your wife being mad is temporary, but pow turns do not get unmade" - mallwalker the wise
way back in the day at the corner garage i can remember gluing patches on the inside of car tires, then we would brush the glue on the patch, light it on fire for 10-15 sec ,blow it out and we called that a hot patch ... seemed to work
For the price of a tire patch kit vs walking out I just replace the patch kit every year cuz once the glue tube has been openned its gona dry out pretty quick , I swap innertubes take them home, use up the old patch kits in the comfort of my shop with a drink, I always have a new kit on every bike and I try to use up the old kits
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
Shimano BB every time if possible. Dirt cheap and serviceable so they have the potential to last a while.
Remind me. We'll send him a red cap and a Speedo.
I’ve patched loads of tires with regular tube patches and maybe a couple tires with auto patches. Alway set up tubeless again, even in sidewall and right up against the bead. Never had one fail, even when I could see the patch pushing out through the hole (after inflating to 40psi)
Usually the decision isn’t so much “too cheap to replace” as much as “too cheap and/or lack of foresight” to have new rubber lying around. Oh, and too cheap to pay $100 for a tire at the LBS that I can get online for $50 and get the actual tread/width/rubber/layup that I want.
Even when a replacement arrives, I usually shelf it and ride the old one out until the tread is ready to go.
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Last edited by jm2e; 10-14-2020 at 01:49 PM.
However many are in a shit ton.
If the tire still rolls straight, it's worth trying to salvage, IMO. If it's bad enough to have a significant wiggle or hop, it's gotta go cause that shit's just gonna get worse.
Remind me. We'll send him a red cap and a Speedo.
_______________________________________________
"Strapping myself to a sitski built with 30lb of metal and fibreglass then trying to water ski in it sounds like a stupid idea to me.
I'll be there." ... Andy Campbell
Shimano doesn't. Hope does and mine lasted really well
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Wheels MFG also makes one that is well reviewed. I've gone through a couple RF BBs in the last few years and I've decided that the next time I blow one up I'm switching to Wheels or Hope. I take care of my bike, live on the east side of Washington and don't clean it with a pressure washer and yet I have to replace one every other year.
Ive heard that about wheels mfg as well. Probably decent stock with them to. My hope went with a frame i sold but it was 3 years old when i sold it
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I live on the other side of WA and therefore replace mine a little more frequently. I had a 30mm wheels mfg and those bearings lasted longer than raceface for sure but they didn't really blow me away. I liked that I could just replace the bearings, but when you factor in the cost of their removal tool or something similar, the math doesn't work out until you've replaced it a few times.
Thanks mags for the suggestions and feedback ...
Soooo:
* Hope 30mm threaded BB w/ stainless steel bearings = $108
* Wheels MFG 30mm threaded BB
Abec 3 - $73
Angular Contact Bearing = $95
Ceramic = $140
* RWC 30mm threaded BB
Chromium Steel ACB = $89
Stainless Steel ACB = $110
Ceramic ACB = $135
Seems like I should just go RWC Stainless Steel ACB for $110 like I was originally thinking, heh. With the 30mm spindle and therefore smaller ball bearing size, I think having ACB helps even the bearing load and increase wear life. And stainless because ... shit its just an extra $20 and I hose my bike down a lot living in Western Oregon.
When I was faced with this decision years ago on my Bronson after moving here, I actually can't remember if I went stainless or ceramic, hah! And having just pulled it and regreased it I'm too lazy to pull it and check the product code ... but I bet I went ceramic ...
_______________________________________________
"Strapping myself to a sitski built with 30lb of metal and fibreglass then trying to water ski in it sounds like a stupid idea to me.
I'll be there." ... Andy Campbell
You know, I think I have a 30mm Wheels ACB set in my drawer that I could let go if you're interested. I'll try to remember to double check tonight.
Those were called "sizzle patches" or "hot patches." Gemplers.com used to sell them (and may still - I dunnno), but I don't know about applying that much heat to a bike tire carcass vs a car tire.
Regarding "rubber cement" I think one needs to be careful to be sure that it's vulcanizing cement. Craft stores sell "rubber cement" but it's for adhering such things as paper to posterboard, and I don't believe it's the same stuff. And FWIW, you can buy the vulcanizing cement in a small metal can with a brush-top lid that won't dry out nearly as quickly (esp. if you wrap the threads w/ teflon tape). Great for the shop!
Lots of features on those. Havent seen bike wear companies using schoeller. Looks like a solid option
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I could swear that I used a vulcanizing bicycle patch kit that you actually lit with a match or a lighter when I was a kid. Anyone remember those? I recall there was a shallow aluminum tray with something that you would ignite with a match to vulcanize the rubber. Maybe my brain is playing tricks on me again though.
yeah i don't know if all rubber cement is created equal
10 15 sec might be a high number just blow it out before the tire goes up
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
I could see kitsbow using it. I wonder how well kitsbow does. I wouldve thought they priced themselves out of the market. I like understated design but i think theyve gone past that right to bland as well
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Any magic tricks for seating a tire on a dented rim? My e13 rim has a couple sizable dents in both the sidewalls and rim bead that don't seem to cause issues while riding but are preventing me from seating a tire to replace one that I cut. Was thinking of trying to score some fancy wheels this winter so would like to try and keep this one going a bit longer and would prefer not to use a tube. Clearly new rims will need inserts, maybe I can get away with a slightly lighter tire to compensate but the new england rocks are sharp.
Bend it back?
There aren’t really any other ‘tricks’ that I know about. I use a crescent wrench or Snap On duck bill pliers.
Anyone else?
Forum Cross Pollinator, gratuitously strident
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