Ask the experts

**jm2e** · 12-10-2019, 10:41 PM

Originally Posted by toast2266

You're gonna need to take that question over to MTBR.

Last I checked, it was crickets over there.

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**EWG** · 12-10-2019, 10:51 PM

They are all home calibrating their torque wrenches.

**jm2e** · 12-12-2019, 01:42 PM

Anyone routinely true their rotors? I have experienced very little reward for the effort in this pursuit.

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**simple** · 12-12-2019, 03:17 PM

Keep trying. It is super easy with a 6 bolt rotor. Crescent wrench is the cheap tool of choice.

**toast2266** · 12-12-2019, 03:32 PM

Originally Posted by jm2e

Anyone routinely true their rotors? I have experienced very little reward for the effort in this pursuit.

You have a rotor that keeps going out of true? That seems like an indicator of some other problem.

**skaredshtles** · 12-12-2019, 03:43 PM

Nope. 15-ish years on disc brakes and have never trued a rotor.

**zion zig zag** · 12-12-2019, 03:50 PM

Originally Posted by toast2266

You have a rotor that keeps going out of true? That seems like an indicator of some other problem.

Like? I have a rotor that I have trued a couple of times. Seems like it lasts for a while and then after a long downhill it'll start to rub again. Or maybe it just wasn't that true to begin with and it only shows when brakes are really hot?

**toast2266** · 12-12-2019, 03:59 PM

Originally Posted by zion zig zag

Like? I have a rotor that I have trued a couple of times. Seems like it lasts for a while and then after a long downhill it'll start to rub again. Or maybe it just wasn't that true to begin with and it only shows when brakes are really hot?

Yeah, mostly an indicator that your brakes are getting super hot. Might be worth sizing up to a bigger rotor. Could also mean your rotor is worn down and getting a bit thin. Could just mean that you have a shitty rotor.

I find a lot of rotors need a little tweak when they're new, which can usually be accomplished just by bending the rotor a bit with my fingers. It's pretty rare that I need to true a rotor after that (unless I smack it on something).

**D(C)** · 12-12-2019, 05:43 PM

So I went to swap tires last night and figured out that both my front and rear rims are dented. I have gone through many rear rims, but denting a front rim is rarer.

I am debating whether going carbon is a bad idea. I can likely build up a set of We Are Ones (which seem to have a good track record and a lifetime warranty) for about the cost of 4 or 5 alloy wheel builds. So assuming I don't need to pay to replace any carbon rims over time, I break even after a season or 2, depending how many alloy rims I would have gone through in that same time.

I like the idea of carbon because it stays true and doesn't dent, so I won't have wobbly wheels or issues with tubeless tires over the life of the wheels. The downside is that they crack.

So here's the question - for someone who typically ends up denting rear alloy rims, is going carbon (even overbuilt ones with a good lifetime warranty) a bad idea?

**adrenalated** · 12-12-2019, 06:06 PM

Originally Posted by zion zig zag

Like?

You're braking too much, pussy

**toast2266** · 12-12-2019, 06:51 PM

Originally Posted by D(C)

So I went to swap tires last night and figured out that both my front and rear rims are dented. I have gone through many rear rims, but denting a front rim is rarer.

I am debating whether going carbon is a bad idea. I can likely build up a set of We Are Ones (which seem to have a good track record and a lifetime warranty) for about the cost of 4 or 5 alloy wheel builds. So assuming I don't need to pay to replace any carbon rims over time, I break even after a season or 2, depending how many alloy rims I would have gone through in that same time.

I like the idea of carbon because it stays true and doesn't dent, so I won't have wobbly wheels or issues with tubeless tires over the life of the wheels. The downside is that they crack.

So here's the question - for someone who typically ends up denting rear alloy rims, is going carbon (even overbuilt ones with a good lifetime warranty) a bad idea?

I dent any aluminum rim that I ride. I have spent a lot of time on carbon rims, and I've never broken one.

That said, I think denting aluminum rims isn't a big deal at all. Does the tire still seat and hold air? If so, then I give zero shits about a dent.

**EWG** · 12-12-2019, 06:53 PM

Originally Posted by toast2266

I dent any aluminum rim that I ride. I have spent a lot of time on carbon rims, and I've never broken one.

That said, I think denting aluminum rims isn't a big deal at all. Does the tire still seat and hold air? If so, then I give zero shits about a dent.

You guys might want to consider putting the rubber part on the rocks. I think that works better.

**D(C)** · 12-12-2019, 07:07 PM

Originally Posted by toast2266

Does the tire still seat and hold air? If so, then I give zero shits about a dent.

Yeah, I mostly agree, except that dents can make seating a tire a pain in the ass. Often they're go eventually but with some effort and a compressor (which I don't have at home) or C02. Maybe that's not enough to warrant the cost of replacing rims, though.

I can deal with a dented rear rim. But looking down at a front wheel with a hop will drive me nuts.

Good to hear you've had luck with carbon rims.

**toast2266** · 12-12-2019, 07:09 PM

Originally Posted by D(C)

Yeah, I mostly agree, except that dents can make seating a tire a pain in the ass. Often they're go eventually but with some effort and a compressor (which I don't have at home) or C02. Maybe that's not enough to warrant the cost of replacing rims, though.

I can deal with a dented rear rim. But looking down at a front wheel with a hop will drive me nuts.

Good to hear you've had luck with carbon rims.

A little pancake compressor costs about the same as an aluminum rim. Just sayin.

**jm2e** · 12-12-2019, 09:41 PM

I unmounted a set of DH tires with CushCore last night. Fuck me. Definitely felt a bit manlier after that. Thank god for trash cans, Pedros levers and leather gloves.

**rideit** · 12-12-2019, 09:51 PM

Please explain the trash can part.
I’m uneducated in the ways of cushcore.

**ACH** · 12-12-2019, 09:54 PM

Originally Posted by rideit

Please explain the trash can part.
I’m uneducated in the ways of cushcore.

If it’s anything like changing a moto tire (using a 5gallon bucket in that case) he may have used it as a means of support.

**zion zig zag** · 12-12-2019, 10:09 PM

Originally Posted by adrenalated

You're braking too much, pussy

Ha, I figured.

**simple** · 12-12-2019, 10:46 PM

Originally Posted by ACH

If it’s anything like changing a moto tire (using a 5gallon bucket in that case) he may have used it as a means if support.

not quite big enough.

Full sized round trash can is how cushcore is best installed. Straight from their website.

**jm2e** · 12-12-2019, 10:48 PM

Originally Posted by rideit

Please explain the trash can part.
I’m uneducated in the ways of cushcore.

Support for wheel laying flat. First use lever to push straight down on bead. Bit by bit, all the way around, both sides. Then a single lever slips under and it comes off like normal. Without those steps, I’d be wrestling with it like a motherfucker. In fact, I’d probably not get the lever in enough to, well, lever.

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**nortonwhis** · 12-13-2019, 12:14 PM

Originally Posted by D(C)

So I went to swap tires last night and figured out that both my front and rear rims are dented. I have gone through many rear rims, but denting a front rim is rarer.

I am debating whether going carbon is a bad idea. I can likely build up a set of We Are Ones (which seem to have a good track record and a lifetime warranty) for about the cost of 4 or 5 alloy wheel builds. So assuming I don't need to pay to replace any carbon rims over time, I break even after a season or 2, depending how many alloy rims I would have gone through in that same time.

I like the idea of carbon because it stays true and doesn't dent, so I won't have wobbly wheels or issues with tubeless tires over the life of the wheels. The downside is that they crack.

So here's the question - for someone who typically ends up denting rear alloy rims, is going carbon (even overbuilt ones with a good lifetime warranty) a bad idea?

I would just throw a cushcore in either and you will be good to go. Denting front is pretty rare for me even in the Bike Park, but i'm more of a finesse than plow kinda guy. (suck at finesse, too scared to plow)

**D(C)** · 12-13-2019, 01:34 PM

Originally Posted by nortonwhis

I would just throw a cushcore in either and you will be good to go. Denting front is pretty rare for me even in the Bike Park, but i'm more of a finesse than plow kinda guy. (suck at finesse, too scared to plow)

Yeah, I have not dented many front rims. I think I hit something hard on Cypress last weekend.

Even with CushCore in over the past summer, I dented up a couple Flow MK3s pretty good.

I am leaning toward building up one of the 600 g-ish alloy rim options in the back (e.g. Flow EX3, Chromag BA30) that have extra ribs in the cross-section like the old Flow EX did. I got 2 full seasons out of a Flow EX without denting the rim bed. I have less luck since then with wider, lighter options that have come out (Easton/RF Arc, Stan's MK3).

**XXX-er** · 12-13-2019, 02:23 PM

I've changed 4.50 motocross knobbly tires back in the day and cushcore was harder, it took 2 of us for the cushcore whereas I could change a motocross knobbly my self no problem

edit: foget that plastic lever shit & get yourself some real steel levers designed for changing motor cycle tires, they arent really that much bigger but real levers make all the difference

**D(C)** · 12-13-2019, 05:53 PM

I'm looking at some of the heavier alloy rim options for the rear. Options are:
- Stan's Flow EX3
- Race Face Arc Offset 30 Heavy Duty
- Chromag BA30 (currently out of stock at the distributor)

Each of these weigh around 600 g in 29er version. Stan's and Chromag have extra internal bracing in the cross-section whereas the Race Face is just a normal single cavity with thicker walls. How important do you think the extra ribs are for preventing the rim bed from deforming when the rim dents?

My past success with Flow EXs and WTB Frequency i23, both of which have ribs in the cross-section, suggests that it's helpful.