TLDR; Tour uphill on a tech toe with minimal on-ski weight, ski downhill on a full alpine binding.
Made from a Tyrolia AT Demo binding that has tool-less adjustment and removal, an ATK Trofeo toepiece and custom-made heel risers made from a black cutting board and Voile climbing bars.
There was some interest in this over in the quiver thread, so I figured I'd post a little something about it here. For touring with the wife, I wanted her to have a superlight uphill touring mode but still have full alpine for the downhill in the resort - all on one ski.
Superlight touring mode:
Bomber full alpine downhill mode:
Either of these are the binding that you want:
https://www.tyrolia.com/shop/us-US/a...1-at-demo.html
https://www.tyrolia.com/shop/us-US/a...3-at-demo.html
You can use any tech toe with minimal distance between the toe pins and the back of the toepiece (for better touring position on the ski). I mounted an ATK Trofeo toepiece with Quiverkillers to share with one of my other pairs of skis:
https://www.atkbindings.com/en/prodo...ofeo-145-gr-2/
I used these heel riser bars:
https://www.voile.com/voile-3-pin-ca...ing-wires.html
You'll need a hacksaw to cut off the front of the heelpiece plastic rails, and a grinder to cut off the toepiece metal rail back to the front screwholes and then grind off some of the back of the metal rails.
The trick is to be able to still slide the toepiece off backwards, with the risers mounted in place (you'll need to raise them first). This doesn't work if your BSL is much less than 280 or so. You'll have to mount the toepiece behind the line - how much so depends on your BSL - you want your boot center to land on your mount point when the toepiece barely covers the front screws. I used the BSL numbers on the toepiece rails to figure it out. I believe I mounted the heelpiece on the line, but you'll want to check if that works for your BSL.
You can either make the heel risers yourself, or buy some low-profile ones from CAST for $80:
https://casttouring.com/collections/freetour-parts
Creating the heel risers takes some time with a dremel tool to get the right shape. If you go slow, you can get there. Once you get the right width, the natural spring of the bars maintaining their shape causes them to stay in place. Rounding the plastic edges near each position allows them to snap into place. I played around with a tele binding to get an idea of how the mechanism works.
Make sure that when the bars are vertical, the plastic cutting board forces them to slant forward slightly, otherwise it won't work very well when you step down on them.
I also made a one-position high(er) riser for my skimo race bindings using a titanium rod. You only need one screw per riser position. Comes in about 15g per piece, which, when paired with a race binding, is the lightest binding with a functionally-high riser that I've been able to find (130g per). With the riser mounted to the ski, you get the benefit of being able to use the riser regardless of the heelpiece position (flat or not, downhill or uphill) which is a cool bonus.
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