Epic Ski level edge tuning question re rocker

[Conundrum]

Proper use for a gummy-give a light pass down the full edge after any edge work with base grinds and hand beveling with files. Disregard if you smooth out with diamonds. Anyone running a .5/3 would know that though.

[tuco]

Fresh tunes are where burrs typically originate. Look at the Hanging Burr topic in our tuning tips. Rule that out first.



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Slidewright.com

Yep.
Polish edges same degree as what edges were sharpened to. Use a hard stone/diamond stone/Emery paper wrapped around file.
Typically burrs from rock damage don't end up making ski hooky. Has more of a dulling effect.

[stuckathuntermtn]

I am a big fan of diamonds stones and the Arkansas pocket stone.
When I say fresh tune, I mean I got them a light base then stone grind because my workbench doesn't have a Winterstiger machine. The rest of the edge and wax work was done by me with a panzar file and stones.

We can let this thread die now.

[couchsending]

.5* base bevel can be frightening in skis over say 80mm under foot, especially if said skis have any metal in them.

The difference between .5 and 1* base bevel is huge and is magnified as you get wider. I guarantee you anyone could tell the difference, unless you’re incredibly knock kneed. Incremental differences in base bevel are very easy to feel, side bevel is virtually impossible unless it’s a very well tuned ski on very hard snow.

I’d highly suggest anything over 80ish under foot get close to 1* of base bevel.

Anything over 100, unless it has zero torsional strength benefits from a bevel closer to 1.25 or 1.5.

Again a lot of this depends on your canting and the ski construction.

[2FUNKY]

And we went epic.....

[Bushwacka]

I have seen a fresh tune from good shops come burred....