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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    23

    Drilled Volkl Bash w/4.1mm bit. Am I OK?

    I may have used the wrong drill bit size when mounted some Marker Jester IDs on a pair of Volkl Bash skis. The Bash skis are all wood with hardwood in binding area, no metal layers. I mistakingly drilled with a 4.1mm bit instead of a 3.6mm bit. Haven't skied on them yet.

    Should I be worried about the screws pulling out? I used the recommended wood glue when mounting and tapped the screw holes.

    Thanks!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    SnoqWA
    Posts
    2,625
    Should be fine. No spinners when you installed them? Ski away.

    Maybe the threads are slightly weaker, but it's not like you're actually going to pull the bindings off and helicoil them all now, right? They usually don't fail all at once. Get in the habit of checking screw tightness occasionally, and if one fails (spins freely), fix it at that time. Most likely a non-issue though.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    23
    Thanks for the info. I figured I was probably OK but always good to check. There were no spinners whatsoever. All eight screws went in tight.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Tahoe>Missoula>Fort Collins
    Posts
    1,798
    Let us know how they ski. Havent heard much about them

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    23
    Will do. Won’t be for another month or so. I’m recovering from shoulder surgery. Crashed mt. Biking and tore up my shoulder (full rotator cuff tear, shredded bicep tendon, labrum tear, etc.) That’s the soonest I’ll be cleared to ski again. Shoulder repair went fine but now it’s all about rehab and regaining strength. It’s crazy how weak it is. A crash would reinjure it. So would any wrenching like a stuck ski pole.

    From what I’ve read, the Bash is more or less the same as the now defunct One. I’d skied a 186cm pair a couple years ago. Really fun powder ski. Very playful. Maneuverable. Easy to slarve. Forgiving. Descent edge hold on packed surface. Not your friend on ice. At least that is what I remember. Though if any rule out that the memory was influenced by post op pain meds...

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    187
    Silly question:

    Why it´s 3.6 and 4,1 instead of 3,5 and 4mm?
    Is it a fraction of inch translated into mm or what?
    Would it be that bad using more common 3.5 and 4mm bits?

    Thanks!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Bodenseekreis
    Posts
    928
    Quote Originally Posted by PNB View Post
    Would it be that bad using more common 3.5 and 4mm bits?

    Thanks!
    You'd be just fine using 3.5 and 4.0 bits, nema problema!

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Scotlandshire
    Posts
    240
    Quote Originally Posted by PNB View Post
    Silly question:

    Why it´s 3.6 and 4,1 instead of 3,5 and 4mm?
    Is it a fraction of inch translated into mm or what?
    Would it be that bad using more common 3.5 and 4mm bits?

    Thanks!
    I've used 3.5 and 4mm bits out of my tool box on all my skis with no issues.
    I Came, I Saw, I .... Made A Slight Effort & Then Went Home For Lunch.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    23
    Quote Originally Posted by flowing alpy View Post
    If the screws tight your alright.
    Excellent. Screws are super tight. Thanks!

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    New Mexico
    Posts
    1,465
    Your gonna die
    Fear, Doubt, Disbelief, you have to let it all go. Free your mind!

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    187
    Quote Originally Posted by eskido View Post
    Your gonna die
    Now, that is a real surprise.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    On another tangent.
    Posts
    3,855
    Hold up the tip of a 4.0/4.1 drill bit next to a binding screw and you'll notice it is the same diameter of the shank. Generally, this is so the screw will pass through a metal or carbon layer. In wood or other core materials, you lose some (0.5/.6mm) of the 'snugness' on the shank if you used a 3.5mm tip. The threads are what secures the skis. As long as you didn't create a huge wobble, while drilling, you should be fine. Tapping is a good idea regardless of tip diameter used. Add epoxy if concerned.

    Regarding the 0.1mm diameter differences, I'm not sure how much it matters, if any. I'd bet any drill you'd see at least a 0.1mm wobble making these slight differences moot for general DIY binding mounts.

    "We're not building any stinkin' Pie-anos here."
    Best regards, Terry
    (Direct Contact is best vs PMs)

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