The new -2017- CAST touring system thread

[phatty]

Like I did back in 2017 - started a New Thread for the new 2024 Freetour 2.0

Let's see if we can get traction for discussing the new system in the new thread, and keep questions and discussion about the older one here.

I've been mulling over a long term review of the 1.0 system for a while now, but I guess that's a moot point...

Don't think it's moot. I think there's still going to be a lot of people sticking with 1.0 for awhile.

[FloridaSnow]

Were you assuming that people have to send their skis to CAST to have the bindings mounted?

lol what? Tons of shops have been mounting cast. So no.

[jk]

My concern is what happens when you get snow under the boot when touring and it depresses the latch to take the tech toe off the ski. With the ski brakes locked “up”. I guess at least there should normally be skins on the ski so it shouldn’t go *horribly* wrong but it seems like a potential difficulty with the design.

Also, I’m slightly pissed I bought the previous version in December, everything (apart from the concern above) looks a lot cleaner with the new version. And a lot easier to mount.

No need to worry about the latch and snow buildup causing the ski to fall off. As with the “nubbin and switch” mechanism on the 1.0 the latch is only there to keep the toe part of the binding from falling off when there is no boot in the binding. As before it is the forward pressure that secures that the alpine toe stays on when the boot is in the binding. With the tech toe there is a cutout in the baseplate in which the arms of binding rest once you click in. Similar to the 1.0 where the tech arms secures in front of the screw knob once you click in…
Once clicked in the binding won’t slide off the baseplate in either configuration.

I really love how well thought out the Cast system is engineered. I don’t think they would ever leave an oversight such as what you worried about above.

My biggest worry is to have the toe part fall off the ski when the ski is in the rack on the outside of a gondola, car, cat or sled.
The 2.0 seems better with regards to being able to tell if the safety mechanism is engaged, but I will still be checking mine before every ride up where I place the skis in any form of rack on/outside a vehicle

[kid-kapow]

I like the look of the new system. Will def buy at some point

[FloridaSnow]

No need to worry about the latch and snow buildup causing the ski to fall off. As with the “nubbin and switch” mechanism on the 1.0 the latch is only there to keep the toe part of the binding from falling off when there is no boot in the binding. As before it is the forward pressure that secures that the alpine toe stays on when the boot is in the binding. With the tech toe there is a cutout in the baseplate in which the arms of binding rest once you click in. Similar to the 1.0 where the tech arms secures in front of the screw knob once you click in…
Once clicked in the binding won’t slide off the baseplate in either configuration.

I really love how well thought out the Cast system is engineered. I don’t think they would ever leave an oversight such as what you worried about above.

My biggest worry is to have the toe part fall off the ski when the ski is in the rack on the outside of a gondola, car, cat or sled.
The 2.0 seems better with regards to being able to tell if the safety mechanism is engaged, but I will still be checking mine before every ride up where I place the skis in any form of rack on/outside a vehicle

it seems like a more positive engagement

[Mulletizer]

No need to worry about the latch and snow buildup causing the ski to fall off. As with the “nubbin and switch” mechanism on the 1.0 the latch is only there to keep the toe part of the binding from falling off when there is no boot in the binding. As before it is the forward pressure that secures that the alpine toe stays on when the boot is in the binding. With the tech toe there is a cutout in the baseplate in which the arms of binding rest once you click in. Similar to the 1.0 where the tech arms secures in front of the screw knob once you click in…
Once clicked in the binding won’t slide off the baseplate in either configuration.

Good to know, thanks.

[snoboy]

New thread for 2.0 bindings

[Gerome]

Alright, here are photos of my ski brake retainer. I was finally able to get both retainers to engage when I used a long flathead screwdriver to force the retainer to clip the brake. I carry a multi tool while backcountry, but the amount of force I needed to get engagement with the long screwdriver makes me unsure I could do the same with an awkwardly shaped multi tool while out skiing. What are your thoughts?


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[skt07]

Bring some rubber bands just in case?

[ASmileyFace]

Have you tried slightly unscrewing the retainer, getting it to engage correctly, then re-tightening it with new glue?

Also, bringing rubber bands is always a good idea with the CAST system, and you're a savage for touring with 195 Squads for any length of time lol

[Gerome]

Have you tried slightly unscrewing the retainer, getting it to engage correctly, then re-tightening it with new glue?

Also, bringing rubber bands is always a good idea with the CAST system, and you're a savage for touring with 195 Squads for any length of time lol

It sounds like rubber bands are essential touring equipment then! Sheesh! And glue, as in new glue for the screw threads? Is that for the screws in the turn tables, or the heel lifters, or both?

And yes, I still have yet to find anything more fun, slarvy, carve-tastic, delighful, and damp than my 2011 Rossi Super 7 with lots of metal construction. Rossi went so wrong later on with soft, weak, lightweight skis. These are my best skis for the best conditions. I have some Atomic Automatic with shifts for a midweight, and my dynafit setup for the big days.

[ASmileyFace]

It sounds like rubber bands are essential touring equipment then! Sheesh! And glue, as in new glue for the screw threads? Is that for the screws in the turn tables, or the heel lifters, or both?

And yes, I still have yet to find anything more fun, slarvy, carve-tastic, delighful, and damp than my 2011 Rossi Super 7 with lots of metal construction. Rossi went so wrong later on with soft, weak, lightweight skis. These are my best skis for the best conditions. I have some Atomic Automatic with shifts for a midweight, and my dynafit setup for the big days.

Don't touch the turntable's just the two screws that hold the retainer and yes on new glue in the current holes. Unscrew them completely and use some sort of waterproof glue (titebond 2 is the same shit that svst sells) in the holes, re-tighten just enough so there is a slight amount of play between the retainer and turntable, engage the brake retainer (make sure it clicks down completely) and re-tighten the screws completely. I've found that creating a 1-2mm gap between the retainer and metal of the turntable produces the best results.

Also I totally mean Super 7's instead of squads in my last post, but you got the jist. The super 7 was a great ski, ain't no reason to change it up if it works for you!

[fbw360]

anyone find it almost impossible to swap certain sets of their AFDs? The alpine ones detach with a firm pull but my gripwalk ones are basically fused on and I have to pry them off with a screw driver each time. Yes yes I am weak - has anyone had success filing off part of the offending AFD tab/track?

[Stuntmonkey]

Just got back from a 4 day hut trip. Conditions were great, -5c roughly every day with 10-20cm each night. Averaging about 2000ft a day with equal descent.

Lots of flaws to point out and I honestly couldn’t recommend CAST outside side country / slack country.

#1 - stupid fucking brake retainers. If there is any ice/snow under the pivot brake table, the brake holder won’t engage properly. PIVOT issue yes but still. Also undoing the holder when transitioning is way uncomfortable to the point I have to take my glove off.

#2 - stupid fucking risers. Same thing as above. Impossible to flick up if you’ve got freezing conditions and even in a slush cup you gotta dig. They also feel incredibly unstable.

#3 - toe posts. Yes yes I know they made a V2. But for those who might want to buy the V1 cheaply. Don’t. Toe piece has way too much movement for my liking, causing heel slop. Transitioning without absolutely clear posts and plate are impossible.

Like I said, the system is probably #1 on the market for slack country. But if you’re doing long range touring or multiple tree laps it’s probably one of the most uninspiring set ups due to the above.



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[sf]

Sure, everyone would agree on your conclusion, and some would have the same experience with the use of the product itself. Personally I feel CAST works pretty well - for it’s intendd use - but it seems like there is a wide spread regarding QC and/or proper mounting.

But still, even bringing a CAST-setup on a 4 day hut trio, and then complaining about it is the weirdest/funniest thing I’ve read on here since Aever/Geuse complained about the bump performance of the Aever-goats.

Cheers!

[altacoup]

CAST is designed for those who want to be able to absolutely charge in the BC. Jermie Heitz and Sam Anthamatten ski them in la liste and la liste 2 and they did some serious vert. They aren’t meant for general touring and multiple laps. My first tour on them was a total disaster due to a slight manufacturing error that I was able to fix with a flat blade screw driver and 5 lbs of pressure. Since then they work great, and I can tour in Doberman plug boots[emoji41]. Just yesterday I had zero problems transitioning in slushy conditions with snow all over the posts. Just slammed the toe pieces on and off and they worked flawlessly. The risers to suck to use with a pole, I just bend down and move them with my hand. CAST is a super niche product and just like the much maligned shift has been sold to many people using them outside the intended purpose.

[HukuTa_KydecHuk]

yeah, CAST is no bueno for hut trips for sure. They work real good for 3 purposes (from my POV):
1) Slackcountry
2) Epic line, where you do just one hike a day and you can do first transition at home/parking lot
3) Travel ski combo. I found CAST very useful in Japan, making me able to do occasional 1-2 days of touring between 7 days of resort shredding

[grinch]

My main usage is just my daily driver on the hill all year smashing them around without issue and i can decide to step outside the gate whenever i feel like it. Not limited in how you ski inside the gate and not constrained with staying inside the boundary if you decide its better outsidse the boundary

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[goolick]

3) Travel ski combo. I found CAST very useful in Japan, making me able to do occasional 1-2 days of touring between 7 days of resort shredding

About to do exactly this (cast on bentchet 120s for a Japan trip) and extremely pumped to hear this!

[Stuntmonkey]

Sure, everyone would agree on your conclusion, and some would have the same experience with the use of the product itself. Personally I feel CAST works pretty well - for it’s intendd use - but it seems like there is a wide spread regarding QC and/or proper mounting.

But still, even bringing a CAST-setup on a 4 day hut trio, and then complaining about it is the weirdest/funniest thing I’ve read on here since Aever/Geuse complained about the bump performance of the Aever-goats.

Cheers!

If that's the funniest thing you've read then you're clearly not reading much in here. Hut trips aren't all the same, and the use case for CAST is literally what this trip was. Fly into the hut, tour around the hut to hit sweet runs and have confidence of the pivot on the downhill.

The overarching point I'm trying to make is that the flaws in the system limit the ability to be consistent, there's always something to fuck around with to make it work. You'll encounter this in the slack country too.

[sf]

If that's the funniest thing you've read then you're clearly not reading much in here. Hut trips aren't all the same, and the use case for CAST is literally what this trip was. Fly into the hut, tour around the hut to hit sweet runs and have confidence of the pivot on the downhill.

The overarching point I'm trying to make is that the flaws in the system limit the ability to be consistent, there's always something to fuck around with to make it work. You'll encounter this in the slack country too.

Fair enough, for some reason I imagined you skinning in for several hours with a huge pack etc. It just reminded me of what was a pretty hilarious time on TGR

Anyhow, my main point was that in addition to some people expecting CAST to be something it isn’t intended to be, there are some QC-issues and/or problems mounting them that add friction for some.
It seems we agree on that

[CHAIR_97]

Just got back from a 4 day hut trip. Conditions were great, -5c roughly every day with 10-20cm each night. Averaging about 2000ft a day with equal descent.

Lots of flaws to point out and I honestly couldn’t recommend CAST outside side country / slack country.

#1 - stupid fucking brake retainers. If there is any ice/snow under the pivot brake table, the brake holder won’t engage properly. PIVOT issue yes but still. Also undoing the holder when transitioning is way uncomfortable to the point I have to take my glove off.

#2 - stupid fucking risers. Same thing as above. Impossible to flick up if you’ve got freezing conditions and even in a slush cup you gotta dig. They also feel incredibly unstable.

#3 - toe posts. Yes yes I know they made a V2. But for those who might want to buy the V1 cheaply. Don’t. Toe piece has way too much movement for my liking, causing heel slop. Transitioning without absolutely clear posts and plate are impossible.

Like I said, the system is probably #1 on the market for slack country. But if you’re doing long range touring or multiple tree laps it’s probably one of the most uninspiring set ups due to the above.



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Sounds like you botched the mount
All slack in the posts should go away when clicked in should have zero play besides the natural elasticity of the pivot heel.

Brake retainer works flawlessly when installed in the right location unfortunately the template supplied can be off a bit.
Sans risers should stay engaged 100 percent of the time because you're literally pressing it in with every step.

Risers . I hate risers and never use them because they are akin to high heels but they are no harder to engage disengage than any other mfrs.

The only legitimate complaint with a well set up cast system is weight but if your only doing 2k a day u should be fine.

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[tupp_]

Using cast as a travel setup for the first time right now. It has been solid. If you are skiing a true 50/50 resort/BC, then I don't see a better option out there if you want to ride 1 ski and boot.

I have had issues with the brake retention even when mounted with a Cast jig in a shop, but once you are stomping on them they have seemed to lock up fine. TBD on when using risers over longer periods.

I'd say I get more play out of pivots than any other binding, and the lowlight so far is the play in the pivot heels. Not cast's fault. I'm impressed. When not travelling, I am pretty unsure how much I will ever use these.

[waveshello]

Sounds like you botched the mount
All slack in the posts should go away when clicked in should have zero play besides the natural elasticity of the pivot heel.

Brake retainer works flawlessly when installed in the right location unfortunately the template supplied can be off a bit.
Sans risers should stay engaged 100 percent of the time because you're literally pressing it in with every step.

Risers . I hate risers and never use them because they are akin to high heels but they are no harder to engage disengage than any other mfrs.

The only legitimate complaint with a well set up cast system is weight but if your only doing 2k a day u should be fine.

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Instead of using the template... I just leave the centerline mark (on tape) on the ski in front of the turn table. Put the retainer/riser piece on the ski and slide it back against the turn table. Stick a pen vertically in to one of the screw holes, slide the retainer side to side a little bit while it's pressed against the turn table to make a mark across the centerline. Repeat for other hole. Now there are two x marks the spots to drill the holes in the right location.

The other issue with cast brake retention i think has to do with the pivot brake arm shape. They don't stow away very well without full pressure from your boot. If you're using cast you definitely want the smallest brakes you can fit over the ski. For instance, I have the 115 brakes on my 122mm waisted renegades, 95s on my 98mm declivitys. The brakes catch/drag less that way.

I don't like skis-off transitions but it's a trade off I'm willing to make sometimes.

[Stuntmonkey]

Sounds like you botched the mount
All slack in the posts should go away when clicked in should have zero play besides the natural elasticity of the pivot heel.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/ppyZF88xZjvhkuPZA

That’s what I’m talking about. Mount was with the jig as well.