Edge De-tuning vs De-burring

[AlpiNord]

It may be good to differentiate between 'de-tuning' and removing a burr. (Among many others, this thread seemed to run the two together.)

A burr sharp edge can be the result of using metal files or from a base/edge machining. The burr will feel inconsistent, rough, can slice a finger, scrap a finger nail, create ski hooking and will wear off faster then a consistent, honed, smooth/sharp edge.

De-tuning is dulling a sharp edge section to smooth out the edge engagement and release. Also, dramatically 'de-tuning' or dulling the tips and tails to the contact points will help to reduce those edge areas from 'grabbing' unwanted objects (like buried logs that contributed to my ACL tear).

A couple days ago, a friend's skis were very 'hooky', similar to mentioned in the thread above. (This on top of cold and very 'grippy' snow. As it warmed, the snow became less 'grippy'.) The burr sharp edge was very obvious. Since he only had a gummi, he used that aggressively along the entire length of the edges. The edges are now smooth/sharp and skied fine for the day. The downside being that a gummi is pliable and can slightly tweak the angle and dull the corner vs a hard stone in a side edge and/or base edge guide or flat against the base as shown below.

After performing base grinds, machined edge sharpening or hand side edge sharpening with a file, a hanging burr can be formed which may feel like a razor sharp corner. This can create hooking of the edge and unexpected edge action. Removing the burr is necessary and and easy final edge tuning step.

By placing a hard stone on the base edge, and run along it, the burr can be knocked off and the edge corner polished smooth. A rubber abrasive (dressing, grinding rubber or gummi stone can follow to smooth the sharp corner further.

So, after getting a grind (or using files) ALWAYS CHECK THE RESULT. It is highly recommended that you de-burr and hone the side edges with stones and/or diamonds. Bring a stone, diamond or gummi with you and gradually de-tune on the slope, if you feel the need. With the modern ski shapes, keeping the edges, consistent, smooth and sharp from tip to tail contacts might be best on the bench and GRADUALLY TWEAK on the hill.

A Ski Visions tuning stick reduces the subjectivity of determining the burr sharp vs consistent, smooth sharpness of honing your edges.



A flapper wheel on an angle grinder is my favorite way to quickly 'de-tune' tips and tails (especially when PO'd after ACL surgery):