Climbing in Italy and Slovenia where

[rod9301]

I'm taking my family to Italy in July, and we would like to climb for a week or so.

Requirements:

4-5,5+ ie 5.6-5.9

Hopefully in the shade because July is hot.

Bolted

Base of the crag kids friendly, ie no steep dropoffs, ideally not rocky..

Since the kids will be playing at the base, no multi pitch climbs, so we can lower quickly in case of a problem.

We will be driving from France thru genoa, then Venice, on the way to Slovenia.

But we can easily divert North to arco, dolomites.

Thank you.

Btw we will spend some time in kranskja gora, Slovenia to climb, so any beta will be appreciated.

[hutash]

Finale, Italy. Great sport climbing of all grades, but will be hot in July.

[klar]

Arco?

[rod9301]

Arco is on my list also.

I heard though that the easier climbs are really polished.

[alpinevibes]

We're in a similar boat; looking into easier sport climbing in Slovenia. Headed there for two weeks in June/July. For you coming from Italy, this looks like a good area: 33 routes, a lot on the easier end. Looks like a great town/area as well - http://www.slovenia-trips.com/eng/ro.../Kal-koritnica

[rod9301]

great, thanks, looks like a safe spot for kids as well.

[talus]

Arco is on my list also.

I heard though that the easier climbs are really polished.

that will be case anywhere in europe. Cinque torre between cortina and alta badia

[rod9301]

Thanks, that looks good

[subtle plague]

Osp in slovenia.
http://www.sloclimbing.com/climbing-topo-osp-misja-pec/
http://www.amazon.com/Osp-Misja-Crni...A1Y0H878LXAUNU

If you have crash pads with you (probably not?), do a stopover on the gottardo pass. Cool temperatures and a lot of easy boulder problems.
Other than osp I don't really know the stuff in the south because there is soo much on the northern side where I live, so I don't go there.
Also really nice: Maltatal in Carinthia both Bouldering and climbing.
https://www.amazon.de/Kletter--Bould...etter+topo+osp

don't go to arco and Finale in summer! They are mainly a spring/ winter destination. Osp will also be warm but apparently doable according to freinds who have been there in June.
There is one beginner area near osp (in the Topo) the rest wil probably be too hard for you since the interesting sectors in sport climbing in europe usually start around 5.9-5.10ish

[rod9301]

Thank you. How about the area near triglav?

[subtle plague]

I've only been to the slovenian alps to ski in Bovec. They have massive lime stone cliffs everywhere, but I don't know anything about the climbing areas.

[talus]

Croatia isn't that far away and the walls at paklenica has great climbing. Plus crystal clear Adriatic sea

[alpinevibes]

OP - hope you guys had a good trip and got some climbing in. We returned last week from our three week trip, including 12 days in Slovenia. We spent time in Lju, Bovec, five days trekking hut-to-hut through Triglav NP, then Bled, Vipav, a few days on Rab in Northern Croatia and final splurge in Venice. We brought a 60M rope, draws/shoes/harnesses and enjoyed four afternoons sport climbing a few areas in Slovenia:

We unknowingly ended renting an AirBNB across the valley from the crag I posted a link to above. A few months ago I found that site and thought that area looked cool, but didn't do much more. When we got to Bovec (amazing area), that climbing area was marked on a road map (props to Slovenian road maps for list sport climbing!) Some locals recommended it and tt was great climbing with lots of routes and variety. 5min drive from Bovec with a 10min approach and shade cover for the belays. We went two afternoons and saw one other party.

After the trek we climbed outside Bled near Iglica Falls ( https://goo.gl/maps/VPXBhe5CFfK2 ). Nice area, a 2min walk from the car, with some tall routes.

Our last afternoon was en-route to Italy from Croatia at Slovenia's second-largest sport area, Crni Kal: http://www.slovenia-trips.com/eng/ro.../1038/Crni-kal. This was pretty ridiculous in scale and variety and was pretty popular. A Slovenian climber friend recommended this to us and it didn't disappoint. It felt much like Rifle with close car access and lots of people enjoying their time there.

All in all a wonderful country. Great people, good food, good prices, stunning mountains similar to the North Cascades and the strongest mountain culture we've experienced worldwide. These people LOVE the mountains and respect climbing/alpinism a lot; alpine clubs are a big part of the social community and develop the insanely talented Slovenian climbers and hard men. The mountain hut system throughout the country was top notch, with each hut being maintained by specific mountain clubs. I'd highly recommend going as a contrast to the "scene" in the Alps, the saturation of Italy, or the post-American-hot spot vibe surrounding Croatia (snark aside: we loved Croatia too).