Keeping Yakima locks from icing

**El Chupacabra** · 01-31-2016, 08:28 AM

Anyone have any tips on how to prevent Yakima locks from icing up? This is on an old Rocketbox, the kind with two pushbutton latches and a center alignment tab/bracket. There is a lock core in each of the pushbutton latches.

I've tried various spray lubricants on the outside of the lock cores, and sprayed lube inside the cores. I even tried lightly greasing the outside of the cores with lightweight bicycle grease, thinking that might keep water out of the inner part of the core. Nothing seems to work. They keep icing up. Wd40 seems to be about the best.

FWIW, the Rocketbox is on a truck that is always parked outside.

**skinipenem** · 01-31-2016, 08:55 AM

Wd40 works okay. My tongue works better until it's really cold.

**XXX-er** · 01-31-2016, 09:22 AM

thats cuz WD stands for water displacing and 40 is the 40th concoction buddy tried

contrary to popular myth WD 40 is not a lubricant

**hutash** · 01-31-2016, 10:04 AM

No tip for prevention, but the easiest way to unfreeze them is to warm your key with a lighter then insert it in the lock. Occasionally it might take a few cycles, but usually worked on my old Fiat door locks that froze anytime them temps thought about freezing.

**Snow Dog** · 01-31-2016, 10:58 AM

I removed the cylinders and lightly greased them. No room for water now.

**old goat** · 01-31-2016, 11:14 AM

Did you use actual lock deicer?

**wyeaster** · 01-31-2016, 11:26 AM

i've strapped a couple handwarmers around the lock in desperation. i also have some of this but i haven't had a chance to use it yet.

**AK47bp** · 01-31-2016, 12:54 PM

Try coating the parts with neverwet

http://www.neverwet.com

**wyeaster** · 01-31-2016, 12:57 PM

Originally Posted by AK47bp

Try coating the parts with neverwet

http://www.neverwet.com

well that's an interesting idea. i've had some for ages and still haven't used it.

**AK47bp** · 01-31-2016, 12:59 PM

I have a can of it too, can't think of anything to use it on. Tried it on my outdoor aluminum table and put a milky film on it but for internal parts may be worth a shot.

**galibier_numero_un** · 02-01-2016, 10:41 AM

Two different problems - prevention vs. Opening a stuck lock. For prevention, a graphite based lube has always worked on my Thule box. That reminds me - I should perform its annual refresh.

Cheers,
Thom

**El Chupacabra** · 02-01-2016, 12:02 PM

Prevention is what I'm focusing on --

I've tried pulling the lock cores and drying them completely (brought indoors to warm), then re-spraying with lubricant. WD40 seems the best, but I think the problem is that the lock shell -- i.e. the part that the core slides into -- is exposed on the inside of this Rocketbox, and water easily gets into the lock shell. Maybe I can build a shield of sorts over the top of the lock shells, to try to keep water/snow from falling straight into the shell.

**Danno** · 02-01-2016, 12:38 PM

my solution is I don't lock them (same type of system).

**wyeaster** · 02-01-2016, 12:46 PM

Originally Posted by El Chupacabra

Prevention is what I'm focusing on --

I've tried pulling the lock cores and drying them completely (brought indoors to warm), then re-spraying with lubricant. WD40 seems the best, but I think the problem is that the lock shell -- i.e. the part that the core slides into -- is exposed on the inside of this Rocketbox, and water easily gets into the lock shell. Maybe I can build a shield of sorts over the top of the lock shells, to try to keep water/snow from falling straight into the shell.

i'm amazed at how open the lock shell is on my powderhounds. it's easier for me to take the cartridge out than it is to lock sometimes.

**sweetdaddy** · 02-01-2016, 06:07 PM

Originally Posted by XXX-er

thats cuz WD stands for water displacing and 40 is the 40th concoction buddy tried

contrary to popular myth WD 40 is not a lubricant

Actually, it has a fair amount of mineral oil in it, not the best functional lubricant but it is there. Considering it's purpose probably more as a film forming barrier to water reentry after the volatiles are gone than as a lube though. Wired had an analytical lab do a GC/Mass Spec profile on the components a few years back http://www.wired.com/2009/04/st-whatsinside-6/

I used WD40 on my old Thule box after the fact with some success for the intermittent times the lock would freeze, kept meaning to grease the cylinders as a preventative, bummer this doesn't work. Got a bigger vehicle and have room to stick the skis inside now

**XXX-er** · 02-01-2016, 06:26 PM

well yeah but my point would be that contrary to popular myth WD40 is not really a lube SO if you really want to lube something there are all kinds of better products, in any case water is stilll gona get in there and freeze. I seem to remember blowing hot breath in/on/around the lock would often unthaw the lock enough to get the lock open

I think mine would freeze early season when there is more miosture around so I would get the moisture out and then it stays cold enough up here so water didn't get in there so much to freeze, I usually kept some lock de-icer in the glove box

but the permanent cure was to buy a PU

Uselesss trivia: the locksmith told me the keys they use for a thule are the same as used for a fiat

**galibier_numero_un** · 02-01-2016, 10:23 PM

Since the original question was about prevention ...

**klauss** · 02-01-2016, 10:37 PM

Had an issue with my yakima lock and the locksmith reiterated what I already suspected: to never use WD40 on locks, which I had not done. Interesting to find out that is what has worked best for you. Guy recommended tri-flow (bike chain lube).

or just get one of these. I am sure you can find other uses. edit: well shit, this thing ain't cordless. guess that will cost more
http://www.amazon.com/Wagner-0503008.../dp/B00004TUCV

**galibier_numero_un** · 02-01-2016, 10:41 PM

Yup ... Heat guns are cool.

BTW, I just checked on Amazon, and (surprise) you can find it (Lock-Ease) there.

Cheers,
Thom

**wyeaster** · 02-01-2016, 11:38 PM

I was always told not to use wd40 on bikes or locks because it's a dirt magnet. The only stuff I ever really remember using for is to help loosen stuck/rusted nuts or non "precision" stuff.

**lordf** · 02-02-2016, 04:37 AM

White lithium grease. Ok I've not used in a lock but I've used it on car components under far great loads and worse conditions. Being an utter loon I used to daily drive my race car through the scottish winters (rose jointed suspension, coilovers with metal locking rings etc) all coated in white lithium grease and I never had an issue with any part freezing up, used to pump into the bonnet locking mechs too as they would fill up with water and freeze up otherwise.

**El Chupacabra** · 02-02-2016, 11:59 AM

Here's what I've tried, without success:

- WD40 - works, temporarily, but as XXX-er correctly points out, it's not a lube. The locks keep getting wet and then re-freezing, and my guess is that WD40 either washes off too easily or simply doesn't leave enough of a film on the lock.

- Nano Pro MT lubricant -- some very light weight oil I use for bike chain lube.

- Dupont/ Finish Line dry lube -- also very light weight oil, also for bike chains.

- Finish Line white lithium grease -- light weight grease I use on bike bearings. Thought it might not thicken much in cold weather. Worked in a light film of it in the lock pins. Maybe I should use more?

What I haven't tried yet, but is in the garage, so I'll work my way through these:

- Tri-Flow -- drip bottle with a straw. Going to try this next, along with making a little rain shield (duct tape) over the lock core housings inside the Rocketbox.

- Boeshield T-9 -- spray lube. I bought it to coat the inside of a steel bike frame; it's supposed to work well for rust-proofing.

- Fluid Film -- spray can. Not sure about this one; might be too sticky and just gum up the locks.

- Dry graphite power -- small tube. Also not sure about this one. Think the powder will just wash out.

- Motor oil. Maybe?

- Phil's Tenacious Oil -- for bike chains; haven't used it in years. Very sticky.

**BCMtnHound** · 02-02-2016, 12:10 PM

Not sure, but you are saying the water is coming through the housing of the tumbler, and not through the key hole? I would go with your thought to waterfproofing the housing exterior then - nothing applied on the internal will stop the freezing even if there is a hydrophobic layer applied. That said, I have had good luck with gate padlocks and other exposed locking mech by melting down some petroleum jelly, immersing the lock, shaking off/out the excess and allowing to cool. Then applying more to any points that water could enter. Not as messy as other grease, and easy to re-apply to the problem areas.