remedy/trance/sb5c or other?

[muted]

Sounds like I need spacers on my Pike. I have the rigid feeling too on small bumps while going slow. In my experience though my new 'modern' bike has improved my cornering greatly. An amazing amount of improvement actually. Took a bit to figure out, mainly was just needing to get over the front wheel.

But, and it's a big booty butt, low speed flat twisty turns are awkward on it. So if you like tight and twisty, I understand your issue. A 26 would be better.

[North]

Sounds like I need spacers on my Pike. I have the rigid feeling too on small bumps while going slow.

Maybe, but you should be able to get the small bump issue sorted first. If you have low speed compression and rebound adjustments, start there. I'd try adding more damping for both.

If you get it all set up so it's working nicely on the small bumps, but blowing through the travel on bigger hits, then it's time for tokens/spacers.

[SchralphMacchio]

So there are two things to look at for fork harshness: air pressure, and compression settings

The point of spacers (tokens) is that you can run the proper sag height without worrying about bottom out. But before you get too attached to the idea of spacers, first make sure you are running proper sag.

Sag height varies with preference but I think 20-25% in seated attack position (seated but forward on the bars) is pretty good, more sag% for a more supple and better-tracking ride and less sag for aggressive riding. Generally what happens is that to avoid bottom out, people overpressure their fork which makes it ride like shit; so the point of spacers is that after you install them you are theoretically able to reduce your air pressure to achieve the proper sag and ride quality. If you are feeling like you have a rigid or drifty fork, first check if your sag is not enough before you start messing with spacers.

If you feel like the fork is riding well but you still bottom out, that is the point when you add more spacers. If you don't use all your travel on big hits but the fork is feeling like the proper sag and response, then you actually remove spacers. You are supposed to use air pressure to control sag and overall fork response, not to fine tune bottom out resistance.

In addition to tuning of sag height, on higher end forks (like the Pike) you have compression settings that change the initial response to bumps. For low speed bumps, you can open up the low speed compression knob until the ride feels smooth. You can close (dampen) this knob if you are getting too much brake dive or brake jacking.

Here is an oversimplified link about the order in which you should tune your fork settings:
http://www.mbr.co.uk/news/rockshox-p...ect-set-324890

[adrenalated]

Thanks schralph, that actually helps me a lot too. Still figuring this whole suspension thing out - pretty sure I need to be running less air pressure and a volume spacer. No compression adjustments on my Fox CTD stuff.

[muted]

For low speed bumps, you can open up the low speed compression knob until the ride feels smooth.

This does not happen at any setting. I lowered the PSI thanks to what I read in this thread to 55psi, and the cornering is much improved. I also read a lot of people like low PSI on this fork, which aligns with what I've found too. I also use Joe's scientific sag set-up found in this thread. Or was it in the Pike thread? I don't remember.

The fork is great absorbing bumps at high speed. I can't figure out why small bumps suck. I tried 50 psi but I was bottoming out on trails that aren't super rocky. I also used that info in the link you posted weeks ago, it has helped.

My conclusion is the fork is just not that great, but I could be missing something big.

[radam]

This does not happen at any setting. I lowered the PSI thanks to what I read in this thread to 55psi, and the cornering is much improved. I also read a lot of people like low PSI on this fork, which aligns with what I've found too. I also use Joe's scientific sag set-up found in this thread. Or was it in the Pike thread? I don't remember.

The fork is great absorbing bumps at high speed. I can't figure out why small bumps suck. I tried 50 psi but I was bottoming out on trails that aren't super rocky. I also used that info in the link you posted weeks ago, it has helped.

My conclusion is the fork is just not that great, but I could be missing something big.

I forget the details of it, but one of the seals on the charger damper can go bad and cause a harsh ride, particularly as far as small bumps are concerned. I'm not saying that the pike has to be your favorite fork or that it is the epitome of high end suspension performance, but the only way I can seem someone riding a pike and thinking 'meh' is if A) They didn't tune it
B) Their frame of reference is literally riding on a cloud
or C) Something is busted on the fork

[SchralphMacchio]

Agree with radam. Pike isn't the best thing since sliced bread but it's a damn good fork and mine does not feel harsh on small bumps at all.

Either the tuning settings are screwed up or you have a dud/busted Charger damper. It's hard to find a good suspension shop, but a good shop person should be able to tell if a claim with SRAM is needed or not.

If you set your compression dial all the way open, and then to all the way closed, the ride should feel different. If it doesn't feel different then your damper might be busted.

How does your rebound feel? Okay? I think that's the only other damping setting available on that fork.

[muted]

Good to know, thanks a bunch! We have a very good suspension shop in SLC, Go-Ride, but I'm about to leave on a trip with the bike tomorrow, so I'll find out when I get back.

[simple]

Fox forks generally suck for small bump. I've ridden a few that do it well but the rest need to be sent to PUSH to work. Why anyone buys them I can't understand.

[SchralphMacchio]

Also, muted, how is your rebound setting overall?

This blog post is a perfect example of how small settings changes can make a big difference:
http://nsmb.com/rock-shox-tuning-camp/

Maybe you can continue to play around with rebound and compression on your trip before having a shop confirm your findings.

[adrenalated]

Fox forks generally suck for small bump. I've ridden a few that do it well but the rest need to be sent to PUSH to work. Why anyone buys them I can't understand.

Well mine came with the bike.

So in the event I can't get my fork to work the way I want through easy adjustments would I be better off a) spending $225 with Push to get it custom tuned or b) spending $550 for a 2015 Pike RCT3?

[SchralphMacchio]

^shall we assume you're running a 34? Pike makes sense if you want a lightweight, stiff 35mm fork for high speed riding. If you don't need something that burly or weight savings are more important, then changing out your 34 damper or going with a Revelation might be a better call, I bet the guys at PUSH would probably give you an honest answer on that one over the phone.

[adrenalated]

Sorry, '13 Fox Float 32 Talus CTD. Bike is a 26" Reign.

My bike philosophy thus far is similar to my ski philosophy - weight matters, but I don't count grams. Downhill performance trumps weight. But I'm a light guy and not that good, so I don't need the burliest everything.

[SchralphMacchio]

Oh, so you're on a 6" bike running a Fox 32? I'd probably would recommend go with a clearance model Pike if you plan on keeping the bike. RS Revelation is lighter and less expensive - the 32mm equivalent trail fork from RockShox. But at 150/160mm it seems like you ought to be at 35mm stanchions instead of 32mm stanchions (edit: because the upgrade in stiffness ought to be pretty noticeable, although it also might immediately show you how soft your front wheel is, which is also easily fixed by getting 26" clearance wheels for cheap as well!)

[simple]

Yeah talus makes fox small bump even worse. Dump that fork. Swapping the damper to float didn't even help mine.

[adrenalated]

Hmmm, thanks guys. I'll start saving.

[radam]

Hmmm, thanks guys. I'll start saving.

Check out xfusion's stuff is you're on a budget. They can easily be had on eBay or pinkbike for half the price of comparable fox and rockshox stuff. I took a chance on a Trace RL2 (34mm 29er fork) and have been very happy with it. It can get unsettled when the hits keep coming but it performs well otherwise and is miles ahead of the fox 34 evolution (aka garbage) it replaced.

[simple]

Agree on xfusion. Great working fork.

[forty]

+1 replace the 32 and another +1 for xfusion
my buddy has an older reign with the 32, fork holds back the capabilities of that bike quite a bit, i just rebuilt the fork, it still sucks... and the oil for it is impossible to find if its the open bath model, such a pain in the ass, thanks for changing oil specs constantly fox

[El Chupacabra]

Another recommendation for X Fusion. I have a Trace 29er fork and a Velvet 26er fork, both work well. One bike has a Micro Lite rear shock, which I don't like as much as the forks - rebound setting clicks are too coarse.

[goldenboy]

Sooo... Lots of Fox lovers here? When I was looking last fall, a few people said that the '16 34 was a huge improvement over the '15. Maybe not so much, eh?

[adrenalated]

Hmm. X Fusion Slant RL2 is available in the size I'd need on ebay for $280 shipped to my door. That might be worth a try. No compression adjustment though...

I'd also have to change out the upper bearing in the headset (bike has the stupid Overdrive2 1-1/4" steerer) and stem and spacers but that doesn't seem like too big a deal.

[simple]

Sooo... Lots of Fox lovers here? When I was looking last fall, a few people said that the '16 34 was a huge improvement over the '15. Maybe not so much, eh?

They say that every year.

[simple]

Hmm. X Fusion Slant RL2 is available in the size I'd need on ebay for $280 shipped to my door. That might be worth a try. No compression adjustment though...

I'd also have to change out the upper bearing in the headset (bike has the stupid Overdrive2 1-1/4" steerer) and stem and spacers but that doesn't seem like too big a deal.

Get the roughcut damper. It may just drop in. Otherwise on/off is 2 settings and stupid fox is only 3 so not a big difference

[North]

Sooo... Lots of Fox lovers here? When I was looking last fall, a few people said that the '16 34 was a huge improvement over the '15. Maybe not so much, eh?

Float/Talas 32 anything is pretty outdated; no surprise that it's unloved in 2016. CTD was bad, but I'd happily ride any of Fox's offerings from the last two seasons. Even my 2013-14 34 CTD (widely considered one of the worst Fox products EVARRRR!) has been pretty solid after a minor tweak from the local suspension shop.

I'm no Fox zealot, and there's plenty of internet shouting that "brand A is amazing, brand B is garbage," but it's been my experience that 80% of riders (regardless of experience level, regardless of equipment) don't know how to setup their suspension anyway. At that point the sticker on the side becomes a moot point.