Home Remodel: Do, Don'ts, Advice

[BCMtnHound]

How sure are you the pipe runs straight under (or possibly in) the floor? It would suck if it did a Crazy Ivan down there and you cut across the pipe instead of cutting along it. Also, the point about a trap is valid. Personally, I would do everything in my power to get the water to the existing drain rather than vice verse. Or hire someone who has experience doing this.

While can’t speak to his particular abode, I recently did the same to move a drain from a tub to a corner shower, about 2ft. Put me right on the limit of the vent connection (within 5ft of the trap). If he can see where the main drain pipe goes under the slab and the direction to the septic/sewer, the basement drain should follow the shortest path of least resistance. Breaking the slab was the hardest part for me - high quality concrete with 50yrs to cure gets pretty hard, and I did it with an angle grinder and a hand chisel. The drain pipe was another couple inches below the slab grade, so almost no risk of hitting it tearing up the slab. Installation to the new drain location was simple enough, just make sure the proper slope to the main is maintained (1/4”/ft).

[Core Shot]

It’s a fucking sauna.

Sandy vagina drain is the best option.

Most sauna have no drain whatsoever

[fatnslow]

Garage door repair question for the well heeled folks here. I have a broken cable on a 6'7" garage door . Looks like they sell cables all over the place for 7' doors I can get pretty much anywhere. Can I use it instead of ordering a custom length if I replace both sides as longs as the cable is wound in the drum tracks ?
I guess worst case I can walk in with the correct one to a shop and have them make me one.

[::: :::]

I do not know for sure, but I’d like to think that should be workable

[old goat]

I do not know for sure, but I’d like to think that should be workable

That's fatnslow's position. I think he's looking for a little more certainty.

[::: :::]

Aren’t we all

[Foggy_Goggles]

Yes, sometimes they adjust with a crimp on the door end or sometimes they adjust on the drum. 5" ain't gonna fuck ya. But people be careful, garage door springs are gnarly. Personally, I don't mess with them and I'm a contractor. But I've got a guy and when don't have a guy you may not have a choice.

[SorryBro]

Yes, sometimes they adjust with a crimp on the door end or sometimes they adjust on the drum. 5" ain't gonna fuck ya. But people be careful, garage door springs are gnarly. Personally, I don't mess with them and I'm a contractor. But I've got a guy and when don't have a guy you may not have a choice.

Un-tensioning my garage door spring was nerve wracking. VERY careful, slow movements. Not technically difficult, but I won't do it again. I was in a situation where I needed it done within an hour so no choice but to go for it.
Find a guy or call your local Costco and have their garage guy come out. Get his personal number for future adjustments.

[TAFKALVS]

Status update… siding is done (need to paint the fascia).



Starting on flooring.

T&G northern birch for the living areas. This is going very smoothly.




Tile for mud room & bathrooms.

Don’t hire me to do your tile… the videos on YouTube make it look easier than it is.

[fatnslow]

Un-tensioning my garage door spring was nerve wracking. VERY careful, slow movements. Not technically difficult, but I won't do it again. I was in a situation where I needed it done within an hour so no choice but to go for it.
Find a guy or call your local Costco and have their garage guy come out. Get his personal number for future adjustments.

I found a guy do it for $110. He was a facilities management guy that does some side hustles for beer money. Some garage door company wanted $750.

[Art Shirk]

Need some advice. Building a shed to store stacked wood. I’m generally winging it and just built the base without much regard for the corner posts or roof because it is going to generally be open air with sheet metal on top - not much weight to hold at all.

Considering the corners here, would you place the corner posts/boards inside the floor frame or outside? You can see that the floor frame overhangs the 4x4 base instead of being flush so anything going up is just gonna have to float on either the inside or outside unless I place it over the 4x4 base and just have the roof overhang further.

Trying to decide before I put the floor down.

Also, if you were mainly concerned with longevity and not price, what would you use for the floor boards? Treated 2x8/10 with some spacing for air flow or cedar?

Going to use cedar fence boards for the sides.








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[spanky]

I’d install posts to the inside. It would allow you to add blocking to further secure the posts if needed (I’m thinking like deck railing posts along a rim joist).

As for floor boards. You probably don’t need 2x thickness. Again on the decking analogy, 5/4 might be sufficient. If longevity without concern for cost is your M.O. then why not a composite/PVC decking material?

[Mustonen]

If it was me I’d probably put down the 2x8 floor and build the roof structure on top of that. Seems it’ll look awkward to have posts come up from the outside and hard to support them super well. Tying into the frame feels better, butting them in top of those 4x4s over the concrete bases, but then you’d have to notch around them and that’s annoying and never seems to come out how I’d like.

[Mustonen]

I’d install posts to the inside. It would allow you to add blocking to further secure the posts if needed (I’m thinking like deck railing posts along a rim joist).

As for floor boards. You probably don’t need 2x thickness. Again on the decking analogy, 5/4 might be sufficient. If longevity without concern for cost is your M.O. then why not a composite/PVC decking material?

I was going to say that, but he’ll have a roof structure and lots of opportunity for diagonal bracing to prevent racking. As long as it’s secured to the platform I wouldn’t think he’d have a structural issue. Minor increased pain in the ass if he needs to replace the flooring though. Probably won’t be an issue though. 2x8 treated lumber will outlast him and probably the little one skipping around too.

If going composite he’ll likely need to put in additional joist, unless those are already 12” OC. Tough to tell without knowing approx height/weight of the little one.

[toast2266]

I built something similar. Used grade 3 rough cut 2x10's for the floor, mostly because they're just about the cheapest option. Got them from the local lumber mill.

Sounds like you're doing walls? If not, having the corner posts slightly inboard is useful so you can use them as the ends of the rows of stacked wood.

[spanky]

If going composite he’ll likely need to put in additional joist, unless those are already 12” OC. Tough to tell without knowing approx height/weight of the little one.

Ah. I didn’t look at the framing that closely. The joists look to be more than 12” OC. And, I think they may be 2x4 (compared to the 4x4 beams underneath).

[Core Shot]

Holy fuck.
Beams. Footings. Etc.
that’s a crazy woodshed.

Anyway. Carry on. It’s overbuilt. But it’s awesome.

[Art Shirk]

Yeah I always over build because everything my wife and daughters touch ends up breaking. Which is why I just ran to grab a bunch of treated 2x10s for the floor. Should be plenty burly.

Appreciating the comments on the post placement. I’m leaning towards inner frame and then added blocking if need be as spanky said. Was also thinking along Mustonens lines now that I’ll have such a burly floor down. I don’t mind notching the corner floor boards and I don’t think I’ll have a rot issue before I’m in diapers if I put a serviceable roof on it.

I am going to do some “walls” but with thinner cedar fence boards pretty spaced apart.



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[Art Shirk]

Something as rinky dink as this though also seems doable (screen grab from some other dude’s build)




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[Mustonen]

Seems you wouldn’t rely on the sheer strength of bolts when you don’t have to. If you can stack you should stack.

[Foggy_Goggles]

Seems you wouldn’t rely on the sheer strength of bolts when you don’t have to. If you can stack you should stack.

You'd think, although the shear strength of the appropriate fasteners is amazing (deck ledgers, bolt up steel buildings, almost all hangered framing members, wall sheathing and so on).

Personally, I'd cut back that double, notch a 6x6 post 1.5" both ways, carriage bolt, and L70Z. I'd also hanger those joists. Mostly people those type of structures have problems with rack so the floor system has to be bomber as does the post connection as the horizontal load on the roof (wind) is a big level on all that.

[nickwm21]

Separate the double rim and sandwich the post in between, also being sandwiched between ledger and the beam. Then you could carriage bolt it two directions.


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[Falcon3]

What started out as a basic bathroom refresh has grown into an almost whole-house reno. New prehung doors to replace the old chipping pieces of shit with 30 layers of lead paint, refinishing wood floors, paint, trim, electrical panel and branch wiring, full CAT6 wiring…the list goes on.

[Dantheman]

Scope creep is real.

[Art Shirk]

Wood shed is coming along. I haven’t cheaped out one bit on this thing along the way but now that I’m at the roof, I’m thinking of not putting down a substrate and just throwing metal roof panels on the rafters. It’s just for wood after all and I’m tired. So, it may not be perfectly flat and may have one less element of moisture protection, but that’s what I’m toying with.

Anyone want to talk me out of this short cut?


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