Home Remodel: Do, Don'ts, Advice

[Foggy_Goggles]

Log house with 5/4 structural t&g roof deck? If so that's limiting. Post pics.

Sent from my Turbo 850 Flatbrimed Highhorse

[riser4]

Well, here’s an option that will give you seizures from how bright it is

150 watt LED
24000 lumen

https://www.homedepot.com/p/14-in-45...3P-B/325639705

Set on an 8’ ceiling, Ray Charles could perform surgery under that

Sweet jeebus!

[::: :::]

Been searching for some LED lights for our kitchen. Problem is that the ceiling in T&G and that's it. So nowhere to really recess the lighting or hide the wiring (There is wiring covers that are paintable, but afraid they will look janky. Current lights are shitty track lights, attached to a log beam that runs across the ceiling that we would love to get rid of.

one option is to find a low voltage fixture with a remote transformer. (or multiple if that's what you need)

1) locate the transformer somewhere hidden near conventional power & safely installed
2) then run the LV wiring as you need to to the fixture [not a fire hazard & wiring is tiny so can be put almost anywhere...like maybe in the joint between ceiling/beam or in a sawcut then covered with colored sealant]

another might be to build a box beam around the log beam if you have ceiling clearance & hide the power in there

[Touring_Sedan]

You want a keyless 3 way circa 1972?

It's easier to adjust the light output while he's churning his own butter.

[Core Shot]

Thx for the steam shower beta. Hadn't thought of specific anti mildew paint for the test of the bathroom.

Any reccs on ceiling slope for inside the shower? 5'x6' ceiling.

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Slope it. Not just for cold drips. But also to avoid calcium buildup when the drops evaporate. It’s the right way.
Pitch? No such thing as too much in a steam ceiling.

On that roof. Holy fuck that’s wrong. If for some reason the addition needed a higher pitch (not likely) at least leave the existing roof as is and have a rake board for the transition. What they did is fubar.

[Core Shot]

Been searching for some LED lights for our kitchen. Problem is that the ceiling in T&G and that's it. So nowhere to really recess the lighting or hide the wiring (There is wiring covers that are paintable, but afraid they will look janky. Current lights are shitty track lights, attached to a log beam that runs across the ceiling that we would love to get rid of.

T&G with no joist space? So it’s foam board on top? That’s wild. But yeah hard to do.
I’d be surprised if there’s no joists.
But my den has structural beams with structured insulated panels on top. So your beam may be structural.

Maybe leave the beam and tuck the wiring into the corner of the beam and tg?
That log beam sounds structural. Investigate before removing

If there’s any space above the tg you can snake holes and use led puck lights

Post pics.

[Core Shot]

I want to replace the hallway lights in my house and I get overwhelmed any time I look at a rack with more than one light, let alone a store full of them. I want something where the light comes on at the switch at a nice pleasant level. And then if I want operating room intensity I can pull a chain and get it brighter than the sun.

They have these amazing devices called dimmer switches.

[Dantheman]

Any thoughts on this induction range? Been wanting to get on the induction program for a while and this seems like a solid deal.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Samsung-...11SS/320714840

[Touring_Sedan]

Any thoughts on this induction range? Been wanting to get on the induction program for a while and this seems like a solid deal.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Samsung-...11SS/320714840

I had two Samsung appliances. They both failed after 2 years. A dishwasher and a fridge. The gas Samsung range we had in an Airbnb felt like it was going to go trapezoid at any moment.

Might as well buy two. Keep a spare in the garage. You'll need it.

The dishwasher went off the deck after the third repair.

[powdrhound]

Been searching for some LED lights for our kitchen. Problem is that the ceiling in T&G and that's it. So nowhere to really recess the lighting or hide the wiring (There is wiring covers that are paintable, but afraid they will look janky. Current lights are shitty track lights, attached to a log beam that runs across the ceiling that we would love to get rid of.

I really like the wireless switches. The receiver mounts in the ceiling, the switch goes anywhere within 300’.

[old goat]

Years ago my bil, a friend of his, and I pulled out the kitchen of the nonconforming unpermitted second unit, pulled out the shower, moved the toilet, redid the wall from barnwood to sheetrock, laid down poly sheeting on the slab floor, put in sleepers and hired a local flooring company to do the subfloor and floor coverings. We noticed that the floor in front of the bathroom sink was sagging. I cut out one bay and found that under the vinyl was 3/4 particle board and 3/8 ply. The bay was packed with dirt on top of the slab. No sign of the moisture barrier. The ply was rotted on the underside. The dirt was bone dry.
We did have a plumber pull out the toilet from the place where the sink and vanity are so maybe the dirt comes from drain work he did and was too lazy to carry it out. Otherwise I don't know where it could be coming from since it's in the middle of the unit, nowhere near the crawl space or outside wall. I don't know if there's dirt in the rest of the bath or in the two other rooms in the unit and don't intend to find out. I'll patch the hole with PT sleepers on poly and 3/4 ply and enough thinner play to level with the vinyl flooring. There is one other spot, in a different room that is sagging a little which I'll leave alone. Then we'll ponder our options, preferrably until we die or sell.

Mainly I'm just puzzled--about the dirt (no sign of animal droppings)--and about why the flooring guy did such a shit job. (The bil we did this with was a licensed GC and electrical contractor and we did things by the book AFAIK but no permit.

I see no point in doing anything about the rest of the unit now. It doesn't seem like it will make anything worse if we wait to replace the rest of the floor until it actually fails. Replacing the floor is the worst case scenario whether we do it now or later. Am I wrong.?

[old goat]

I should add that currently the unit has my wife's stained glass shop, which she is phasing out, and a room with a sofabed and TV where people have in the past slept, although rarely. Mainly it's where I keep my ski boots and jackets. I don't expect this unit to ever get much use but my wife fantasizes about hoards of grandchildren needing to bunk there (we have one). She also fantasizes that we (meaning I) can handle the job of replacing the floor ourselves. She forgets that originally we did the unit with 3 middle aged men, not one old man and an old forewoman.

[Djongo Unchained]

The dirt was put in there as a sound deadener. Instead of hollow drum sounding it was baffled by the dirt.

[caulfield]

Any thoughts on this induction range? Been wanting to get on the induction program for a while and this seems like a solid deal.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Samsung-...11SS/320714840

I'd say spend a little more on an induction range if you can. Awhile ago, somebody posted a video in this thread with some chef shit-talking induction. The video was mostly likely sponsored by a gas company, but one point she made was that price = magnet size. I have the cheap one from her review ($800 frigidaire) and it's better than any glass or coil electric range I've used, but the magnet things (hobs?) are definitely smaller than the circles drawn on top. It heats evenly, but in an area smaller than some of the pans I use

I took some measurements with an infrared thermometer so I have a rough mental map of where the actual magic magnet is on each corner, but I have to pay attention to keeping the pan centered over it and where the food is in the pan. I think a ~$3000 range would be better, but I haven't done enough research to confirm that

[Dantheman]

To be fair, it's a $1600 range that's 50% off. Looking at specs against that one and more expensive models (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Samsung-...11SS/320714969) the cooktop specs are exactly the same. All the extra money goes into oven features (convection, air fry, dehydrator).

[caulfield]

yea, those seem like all the same cooktop. 11/7/7/6 is better than what I've got, but 7" is still kind of small. Looks like the Bosch and Cafe ones have an 8" as a secondary. One inch seems minor but it's a decent % of surface area at that diameter. Do I think that inch is worth $2000? Probably not. But it's a possible annoyance to consider

[bagtagley]

I'd say spend a little more on an induction range if you can. Awhile ago, somebody posted a video in this thread with some chef shit-talking induction. The video was mostly likely sponsored by a gas company, but one point she made was that price = magnet size. I have the cheap one from her review ($800 frigidaire) and it's better than any glass or coil electric range I've used, but the magnet things (hobs?) are definitely smaller than the circles drawn on top. It heats evenly, but in an area smaller than some of the pans I use

I took some measurements with an infrared thermometer so I have a rough mental map of where the actual magic magnet is on each corner, but I have to pay attention to keeping the pan centered over it and where the food is in the pan. I think a ~$3000 range would be better, but I haven't done enough research to confirm that

My experience as well with our Frigidaire. The magnets are smaller than the footprint, they don’t make a complete circle and they don’t adjust well to accommodate the pan. I have cold spots on anything over 8”, even on the big burner, which is supremely annoying.

Induction is more expensive so even budget models start off pretty pricey. So, I think you’re right that $3k is starting for something that really performs impressively. There are probably exceptions but it’s hard to know what they are without putting it to use. For a while, Wirecutter didn’t recommend induction ranges because they said good ones cost more than most home cooks would be willing to spend. Looks like they’ve added a GE to their electric slide-in recommendations, which I’ve seen recommended elsewhere. I hate touchscreen controls for the stovetop. GE has a sliding interface that’s supposed to address the issues with up/down buttons, but I’m still leaning towards Cafe when we replace this turd because it has knobs.

FWIW, CR’s top two induction picks are LG slide-ins, the Samsung is down the list a bit. Having had a high failure rate with Samsung and LG appliances, I’m hesitant to buy anything from either.

[skaredshtles]

My experience as well with our Frigidaire. The magnets are smaller than the footprint, they don’t make a complete circle and they don’t adjust well to accommodate the pan. I have cold spots on anything over 8”, even on the big burner, which is supremely annoying.

Induction is more expensive so even budget models start off pretty pricey. So, I think you’re right that $3k is starting for something that really performs impressively. There are probably exceptions but it’s hard to know what they are without putting it to use. For a while, Wirecutter didn’t recommend induction ranges because they said good ones cost more than most home cooks would be willing to spend. Looks like they’ve added a GE to their electric slide-in recommendations, which I’ve seen recommended elsewhere. I hate touchscreen controls for the stovetop. GE has a sliding interface that’s supposed to address the issues with up/down buttons, but I’m still leaning towards Cafe when we replace this turd because it has knobs.

I have the Café 30" slide-in with the double oven and have no complaints so far. About 3 years in at this point.

[bagtagley]

I have the Café 30" slide-in with the double oven and have no complaints so far. About 3 years in at this point.

That’s the one I’ve been watching. The wife and I both lust over that double oven. It was on sale for under $3k this summer. I didn’t jump and have been kicking myself since.

[Name Redacted]

I have the Café 30" slide-in with the double oven and have no complaints so far. About 3 years in at this point.

Same here. Seems good so far after 6 months for us. The induction is sweet, boil water in a minute, and the ovens heat up really fast compared to our old gasser. Now if my wife would stop putting stuff in the wrong oven we would be good.

Combined with our new solar install it is pretty cool to cook without using the grid.

[skaredshtles]

That’s the one I’ve been watching. The wife and I both lust over that double oven. It was on sale for under $3k this summer. I didn’t jump and have been kicking myself since.

Yeah - the double oven is *real* nice... the lower is large enough to roast a pretty large turkey and the top is good for cookies/casseroles and such. It *would* be nice if the top had convection. The new ones probably do.

[alpinevibes]

I'd say spend a little more on an induction range if you can. Awhile ago, somebody posted a video in this thread with some chef shit-talking induction. The video was mostly likely sponsored by a gas company, but one point she made was that price = magnet size. I have the cheap one from her review ($800 frigidaire) and it's better than any glass or coil electric range I've used, but the magnet things (hobs?) are definitely smaller than the circles drawn on top. It heats evenly, but in an area smaller than some of the pans I use

I took some measurements with an infrared thermometer so I have a rough mental map of where the actual magic magnet is on each corner, but I have to pay attention to keeping the pan centered over it and where the food is in the pan. I think a ~$3000 range would be better, but I haven't done enough research to confirm that

We did a lot of research a year ago and it seemed like going to for the $3000 range induction options was the way to go. But, that said, the Samsung has great reviews and for $900 and half off, seems like a cheap, reasonable way to get into induction. Maybe throw $100 towards an extended warranty JIC?

We have a Bertazzoni 30" induction range, MAST304INMXE, which is like $5000 msrp, but we got a electrification grant that paid for it last year. It has an 8", 6" and a dual "bridging" zone that can output 7400w. It's been pretty awesome but it's taken the better part of a year to adjust to, coming from gas. We cook a lot and my wife is very skilled and picky. She was initially underwhelmed but now prefers it. The oven on ours is pretty amazing too. I don't think we've had issues with the smaller elements unable to heat a slightly bigger pan, but i should do a infrared check.

[carlh]

I have the $3000 lg slide in that we bought on sale for $2k last year. It does everything it is supposed to but I wish the second big burner was bigger than it is for 2 large pans. Power on high is great but the knobs are not infinite adjust they have steps and sometimes it would be nice to have something in the middle. Oven is big and seems to cook well.
I would be curious on the cafe to see if it is better than the lg but so far it is the best cooking stove I’ve ever had.
We passed on the Samsungs due to reviews and a weird burner layout.

[Name Redacted]

We got a $500 rebate for replacing our gasser with induction. So that was nice.

[mattig]

I'll never buy another range with hard-to-clean knobs that aren't protected under a bull-nosey, bulgy, lippy kinda protrusion. Haven't seen it on many ranges and that's just baffling to me.

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