Heard. I’ll stick with sonotubes.
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Heard. I’ll stick with sonotubes.
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Probably wise, I think you would be ok frost wise (think a bridge abutment sitting on piling) but driving those through river rock while maintaining position would be rough, really rough
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Last edited by teleee; 05-24-2023 at 07:35 PM.
Samuel L. Jackson as Jules Winnfield: Oh, I'm sorry. Did I break your concentration?
Depends on the rocks. They do work. And are code. Haven’t done it myself but have seen it.
I’ve also fought large rocks with a spud bar.
But if you hit a boulder it might be dynamite or excavator time
I’m thinking this footing might punch through really rocky earth, but big ones will suck no matter what you choose.
If you hit a big one, does that impact ram work in reverse?
skidsteer hammer attachment ftw
How big of a deck?
is it attached to the house?
Are you OK with some seasonal movement?
What is the budget? Or alternatively how important is saving money?
Oh also, are you pulling a permit, what is the typical pier design, and what is your snowload?
I've got a deck going how that is $120K, I've also done decks with a buddy in a weekend. Functionally and aesthetically, they are not that different. If you let us know your goals and dreams, it will help with the design.
How to build a deck that won't kill people and have lawyers crawling up your ass:
https://cms7files.revize.com/waterto...Guide-1804.pdf
It’d be an L shape around the S/E corner of the house. Not attached. Not really ok with movement. Saving money is important but not looking to cut corners, ie not using Ipe, but want to build to last. Simpson Strong Tie has a decent online planner that I used for a material list and design. No permits needed for less than 3’ high deck. Building department told me frost depth was 32” which honestly surprised me as I was planning to go at least 48”.
OK, so design. I strongly suggest against a drop beam because treated lumber is really inconsistent. 2x10s have been varying from 9" to 9 7/x". This also means staying away from mid span beams if possible. Given that you are doing it yourself, you might want to crunch the numbers on upsizing the beam to reduce the number of piers.
One you have finalized design, I'd try and find a small time local excavator to dig your holes. I can run a mini ex but I'm slow and sloppy. Ive found it is actually cheaper to get someone else to do it. I suggest using a Bigfoot as it creates a monopour spread footing. That way you can dig and backfill in one day.
I think it was flush and not drop beam. Having trouble logging into the Strong-Tie planner on my iPad, but I’d be happy to share it with you when I can. Pretty sure it gives you the options to upsize beams.
My plan is to try and hire out the hole digging, but I’m sure that’s going to be difficult at this point in the year. Might have to bribe a friend from Ogden to go up and do it.
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Generally small time excavators love that shit. One machine, one guy, one day, cash on the spot. If you see dudes digging, stop and ask. Maybe ask at the local equipment rental place if their are any operators that they suggest.
Ah, good to hear. Lots of work going on around the valley so I’ll ask around.
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Mountain Town Excavators...the good ones are all about the same. Good old work hard play hard rednecks. Probably been there a while. Often a family business. Usually ranchers as nobody else has anywhere to keep the equipment. Generally either drive snowcats or plow in the winter. One thing they all like is money. Gotta keep the machines working!
If it's not for the payment, it for a new sled, pickup, toy hauler, dirtbike, winter off, boat and so on!
Signs you are in the right place:
7.3 or 2 Gen Cummins. Loud AF obviously
Wranglers tucked in the Ariats (or Mucks seasonally dependent). Flatbrim, expensive shades.
Framers tan, country strong, never stop moving
Warning signs
100k Duramax...everything shiny and new
Equipment sitting
White Oakleys
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sonotubes down to frost. Hang them 10" high in the hole and you will re create a bigfoot at the bottom of the hole without the extra labor and cost. Knifeplate sits above grade so (im assuming here) your future wood posts will not rot from the bottom. Budget a little extra mud for your DIY bigfeet.
Stringline and a2 + b2 = c2 will be your friend when battling to keep everything square.
Pierre's Hole?
Plenty of laborers in that valley.
And digging in glacial deposit and river cobblestone sucks. It's for the young and hungry.
Get comfortable with movement as it will happen, eventually.
You might consider some Alaskan yellow cedar. Not too pricey, ultra durable, greys beautifully. Easy to get around here.
Plenty of laborers, but way more work than workers seems like.
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Contractors around here are quoting availability a year and a half out for snow damage repairs.
isn't it just way cheaper to shovel the deck ?
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
You gotta be here to shovel.
well them away-folks got lotsa money to pay the contracter and if they are not here buddy can and should overcharge them just on principle
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
Gouging is not a principle, and no way to go through life.
My mom's house has two large lodgepole pines fairly close to her house. There is some brownish tinge in a few lower branches but over all looks healthy to me. Can't be more than 53 years old. Seems like they should be ok to stay put for another decade?
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