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Thread: Going from 2X10 to 1x11

  1. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by jm2e View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by scharny View Post
    I'm upgrading to M8000 11-sp, not too psyched to read this, but glad you posted it. I am actually going to be running an 11-40 cassette with 30t Wolftooth NW ring in front; I'll post up a performance review once I get a few rides in on the steep and technical.
    Yea, this'll be a great comparison. She's running 11-42 x 28T, so yours with 11-40 x 40T could possibly make a significant difference. Chain stay length and chainline will also count. Waiting for report.
    May not happen right away - our trails are still drying out, and parts are backordered. I did find THIS THREAD on empty beer - sounds like a lot of people are having the same issues. One of the things they suggest is adjusting the chainline with spacers and running an 11sp SRAM chain.
    Last edited by scharny; 03-29-2016 at 06:41 AM.

  2. #52
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    Johnny Sizzler explains the back pedaling issue as a result of chainline pretty good in this thread.

    http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/s...rth-an-upgrade

  3. #53
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    And it make things even worse...or better....One Gear just released their 10/50 cassette. It will include a new DR cage and the 10/13/15 gears are all one piece and the locknut.

  4. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by farmguy View Post
    And it make things even worse...or better....One Gear just released their 10/50 cassette. It will include a new DR cage and the 10/13/15 gears are all one piece and the locknut.
    50? When the cassette gets bigger than the brake rotor I'm out

  5. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by ticketchecker View Post
    50? When the cassette gets bigger than the brake rotor I'm out
    http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/s...RAM-Eagle-1x12

  6. #56
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    Thanks for sharing JM2E. I didn't have those issues with my 1x10. I would assume you've tried playing with the limit screws and chainline to no avail?
    _______________________________________________
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  7. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by jm2e View Post
    I've had my wife on an XT M8000 drivetrain for a couple months now. I'm a little underwhelmed by the purchase.
    First, I think the performance and feel of it is more on par with SLX. The lever feel is clunky and the RD looks cheap. Perhaps that's more symptomatic of the bigger picture in SLX vs XT over the last couple years. That said, the price point on the M8000 stuff is probably more aligned with SLX. That part of it has just confused me.
    The bigger issue is the performance of the system. It has in no way been flawless. Having the extra 42T cog is nice, but shifting up to that last one and then back down again is never smooth and can only really be done with almost no torque on the cranks. All the other cogs shift nicely, but that last one seems about as well integrated as any of the add on pie plates available for aftermarket.
    The BIGGEST problem, is that backpedaling while in either of the two biggest cogs results in the chain falling down the cassette. This sucks balls and is a shitty system. I asked my mechanic about this and he said it was a common topic at whatever industry show he'd just been to. He said that, LITERALLY, Shimano's response was "just stop pedaling backward". With the steep technical climbing typical of the Southeast, that's just not realistic.
    I just think the wider width of the 11 speed cassette, combined with shorter chain stays results in a shitty shitty chain line that's exacerbated by a huge climb from a little chainring to a tall-ass cog. I'm sure if we were running 40T chainrings it would be smoother, but that would be retarded. If her chain retention issues continue, I might switch her to Sram, but am not too psyched about the buy in cost. (over priced cassette + XD driver = hundreds)

    Because of the experience with my wife's bike, I'm actually thinking of sticking with 10sp for now and maybe trying a Praxis 11-40T cassette (coming from an 11-36) As far as I can tell, the price difference gets you a bunch of saved grams.
    Is this on a Knolly? Threaded BB? If you haven't already, move the BB spacer from the drive side to the non-drive.

  8. #58
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    Curious if the guys with the back pedaling issue have put a hanger alignment gauge on the bike to ensure the hanger is bang on.

  9. #59
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    I had back pedaling issues until I put a 1mm spacer on my chainring. No more.

  10. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtaylor View Post
    I had back pedaling issues until I put a 1mm spacer on my chainring. No more.
    I think cinch/direct mount setups may be more vulnerable?

  11. #61
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    Maybe.

  12. #62
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    It amazes me how much people will keep going back to unreliable parts and brands on mountain bikes. I'm so spoiled by how little maintenance a modern motorcycle needs. Gearboxes need to happen. Derailleurs are garbage.

  13. #63
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    ^^^ I'm kinda with you. I have a belt drive SS, and I want to get a geared hub on another bike, but $$$ and weight. Motorcycles are just a bit more powerful than my measly 1.2 hp max.
    Well maybe I'm the faggot America
    I'm not a part of a redneck agenda

  14. #64
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    To follow-up for Shralph: Just finished swapping an AB oval 26T onto the wife's SB-95 (was 32T round). Stuck a GoPro on the seatpost for before and after on the bouncing issue and I can't see a difference. Maybe a little less with the smaller oval, if anything, but definitely too close to notice. The bike bounces very slightly with high rpm and is quite still at moderate rpm both before and after. I ran the damper in Descend both times and the pressure was a little low (set for my wife) so I think I saw a worst case scenario. FWIW, linkagedesign's data on this bike has me thinking it's a little above 100% AS with the 32T, so that would be a little worse now, but the oval might even acceleration out a bit, particularly since this close to 100% AS the leading cause of bounce is leg inertia. The one place that was hard to compare was a steep hill: since the rpm are higher now it looked a little bouncier at the worst, but at the same rpm (or about one gear higher now) no difference was detectable. I think you're good with the plan you outlined--I certainly wouldn't run a larger than desired chainring to offset any suspension issues, anyway.

  15. #65
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    Regarding back pedaling, on the X1 with 32T chainring I could not get it to jump from back pedaling; at 26T with 1" less chain it is still hard to make it jump but it's possible. Thinking maybe I should have pulled out one more link, but I wanted to start safe. Anyway, another thing to check: if the der pulley touches the cog at all you get slack and off it goes.

  16. #66
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    No dropped gears for me - 5010 w/ XT 11-42, Race Face 30T NW on a 3sp SLX crank, no spacers on drive side.

  17. #67
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    All 1x in my garage. ZERO drops.
    - SRAM 10-42 and an XX1- SRAM spider w 30t -w SRAM spider 32t w- AB 32t oval, CHROMAG direct 28t.
    -XT 11-42 and a XO SRAM spider w 28t
    - XT 11-36 (10s) and a SLX double with a CHROMAG 104bcd 30t (one bob spacer on drive side to better the chain line)

    All set up hold their chain pedaling forwards or backwards.

  18. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by flowtron's ghost View Post
    Is this on a Knolly? Threaded BB? If you haven't already, move the BB spacer from the drive side to the non-drive.
    73mm BB shell = No Spacers.

    I'm thinking this might be a good next option. 47.5mm chainline with 28T ring.
    http://garbaruk.com/single-oval/oval...-sram-gxp.html
    However many are in a shit ton.

  19. #69
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    Going from 2X10 to 1x11

    Quote Originally Posted by jm2e View Post
    73mm BB shell = No Spacers.
    73mm bb shell = 1 2.5mm spacer with Shimano or RF 24mm spindle bb

    68mm used 3. 2 drive side, 1 non. Take out 2 for 73mm shells, leaving 1 drive side . It's a holdover from the days of e-type front derailleurs.
    But it's all moot as you don't seem to have spacer on the drive side regardless.

  20. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by jm2e
    Quote Originally Posted by scharny
    I'm upgrading to M8000 11-sp, not too psyched to read this, but glad you posted it. I am actually going to be running an 11-40 cassette with 30t Wolftooth NW ring in front; I'll post up a performance review once I get a few rides in on the steep and technical.
    Yea, this'll be a great comparison. She's running 11-42 x 28T, so yours with 11-40 x 30T could possibly make a significant difference. Chain stay length and chainline will also count. Waiting for report.
    Everything installed fine - really digging the quality of the new m8000 shifter and derailleur. Rode it a mile or so on an 11% grade climb and no backpedaling issues so far. Shifting feels solid and dead-on. Proof will be on actual trails. It's installed on a 2016 Kona Honzo ST, with sliding rear dropouts. Since I'm running the frame geared (for now) I have the sliders all the way in so that the stays are at their shortest and the frame handles nice 'n' snappy. Chainline is approx 47.5 (measured with calipers).

  21. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by scharny View Post
    Chainline is approx 47.5 .
    Bingo
    However many are in a shit ton.

  22. #72
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    So I did my first techy, climby ride (15 miles, 2,100 ft of climbing) on the 11-40 x 30t NW setup and did notice some chainline issues when in the 35t and 40t rings. Pedaling forward was fine, but backpedaling they occasionally dropped down to the next cog. I rarely need to ratchet in gears that low - the ride was awesome, but I like my bike to be silent and there was some occasional pinging because of the alignment. I am going to mess around with some BB spacers and see what happens.

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