Going from 2X10 to 1x11

[TahoeJ]

I'm sure it's been discussed but the search function sucks, so...

I'm curious what the experience has been for those of you that have made the change from a 2x10 to a 1x11 or 1x10. The benefits of weight, clearance and simplicity are obvious, but I'm wondering how many ultimately miss the ability to sit and spin when it's steep and you're a little tired. Or is it really not that noticeable once you get used to it because the difference in force needed is minimal?

[kidwoo]

I went from a 24/36-11/36 to an 11sp with a 32t front ring. You only lose one gear off the bottom and your top gear is pretty much the same with that particular switch.

I've got destroyed knees and a messed up spine so if there wasn't any sitting and spinning, I couldn't do it. That's on a 29lb bike.......that kind of matters too. I don't regret it for a second.

But if anything, I wish there was more on the top end than the bottom with a 32. Same gripe I had with a 36/11 though.

[D(C)]

I went from 24/36 x 11-36 to 30 x 11-36. I like the 1x setup a lot better for shorter rides. I find I clean tech climbs a lot more by not dumping into too low a gear and spinning out, and it's pretty comfortable for climbing with fresh-ish legs.

I miss my granny ring for sure on 4 hr+ rides with people who are faster than me. My current 1x setup definitely accentuates that feeling of dragging my ass. But it's good most of the time and the benefits have outweighed the drawbacks so far.

I had a brief foray with 32 x 11-42 with a Wolf Tooth cog. I found the gearing wasn't as low as with a granny and shifting suffered. I like 30 x 11-36 better for a 1x setup.

Given the appropriate budget, I'd go 11 speed with a 30t ring.

[hick]

Went from 20/34 x 11/34 to 30 x 10/42. I'm at 4 1/2 wks post acl/meniscus repair so I don't want to grind to hard and the 1/11 has been awesome. No going back for me, really enjoy the quiet simplicity. Had a 34 t ring for a short while and that was just to much for a around these parts for this kid. 30 has been great. I will add that I was quite curious of the 1/11 but fairly scared of it for the vertical pulls we have. Feeling really good about it so far, though.

[XtrPickels]

On 32x 10/42. It's a balance. Low end is perfect. Sometimes I reach for one more and its not there, but that's just when being a pansy. I don't actually need anything lower, ever.

I'd like a bit more top end though I think a 34 front would be too steep. I figure if I'm going that fast, I might as well be coasting and enjoying the down anyway.

[jamal]

Wheel size is kind of important here btw. 29" wheels is basically like using a 2t bigger ring, so 32x42 for example is pretty tall for a 29er and the equivalent of 30x36 on 26" wheels.

I have a 26t little ring and while I'd kind of like a little shorter gearing I can live without it. So that means a 30t, and probably sticking with the double until I can afford 1x11 because that 10t gives you quite a few more gear inches (30x10 is taller than 32x11).

[TahoeJ]

Thanks for the feedback, seems like a no-brainer. I'm on a 29er so sounds like 30t should be plenty. I really like the idea of the psychological simplicity - not debating when to change up the front ring... and not having to deal with a front derailleur in general.

[beaterdit]

Just a little input here. Personally I'm running XO1 with a 32t Raceface N/W ring up front on a 27.5 bike. Great combo, the gear is a bit lower than the 32/36 on my old [1X10] 26 inch bike and the high gear is a lot higher. XO1 is awesome, that said, if this bike didn't come with it, I'd be looking at the aftermarket 42t setups.

One thing I have noticed that likely applies to these setups is that shifting up to the 42t and general performance and noise is very sensitive to chain wear for me. I don't really have to measure my chain anymore because when it starts having a hard time getting up to the 42, I know it's time for a new chain. It's basically like clockwork, I get hard shifts, maybe a skip or two, and cog noise with the 42, then I measure my chain and sure enough, it's time. This may be why some people are having poor shifting performance with aftermarket 42t cogs. If you're going to an aftermarket 42t, I'd go ahead and just throw a new chain on there for good measure, unless your chain is pretty damn new.

As to the longevity of 11 speed chains, the first one lasted 600ish miles, the second one lasted 500ish miles. I never paid as much attention to it before so I don't know if that's good or bad, but I think it's about average. I attribute the difference to me getting stronger and also a lot of racing on the second chain. It's an expensive chain to keep replacing but I'm trying to be diligent about it because it's a lot cheaper than the $400, or whatever, cassette. Those direct mount chainrings aren't exactly cheap either. At least the shop floated me a new chain on my way out of town for my last race.

[Lindahl]

Yeah, thats what I like most about it - the psychological simplicity.

I currently run a 3x crank, with a NW 32 on the front and a 36 rear. I also toss a granny ring on there and manually switch on rare occassions. Its pretty nice for those really long drawn out climbs when you can't just grunt it out. Once all the 42t 10-speed stuff gets ironed out and is more bulletproof, I'll switch to 34x11-42. I'll probably still keep the granny there for the big bike. Its pretty nice when I'm worn down and have a long climb in front of me. All the benefits of 1x10 with a last ditch bailout when you really need it, for only a few grams.

[Dantheman]

I currently run a 3x crank, with a NW 32 on the front and a 36 rear. I also toss a granny ring on there and manually switch on rare occassions. Its pretty nice for those really long drawn out climbs when you can't just grunt it out. Once all the 42t 10-speed stuff gets ironed out and is more bulletproof, I'll switch to 34x11-42. I'll probably still keep the granny there for the big bike. Its pretty nice when I'm worn down and have a long climb in front of me. All the benefits of 1x10 with a last ditch bailout when you really need it, for only a few grams.

This is exactly what I did this year with my 3x cranks that were 24/32/bash. Removed the FD, replaced the 32t with a N/W, and left the 24t on and will just shift it by hand if I need it (haven't so far this year and have done several 5-6k ft days). I call it 1.1x10. When my cassette wears out I'll probably do the 42t conversion on the new one, but I'm not going to bother for now.

[MTT]

I came to look for this thread, I want the weight and Simplicity. But I need the granny gears I really wouldn't mind an even lower gear than I have now and a smother transition up through the first 5 gears
I just read an article about the new 1X11 Specific SHRAM 1XX ''But I am sure I would not replace everything.
So total fat old bike jong what's the right way to do it.
Santa Cruz Chameleon
Front and Rear Detailer - XTR 3x9
Race Face Crank
Shifters Deore
Brakes - Hayes

Anything I remove from this bike I can install on a new bike as an upgrade.
I know I want new Brakes better and Lighter.

I want 1 sprocket and no front detailer or Left side sift hardware.

Other than that I am clueless

I am on a mission to up my bike Game and want to start out on the new setup
Ready to buy

[jamal]

To go 11 speed you pretty much do have to replace everything, but usually can keep your cranks and put on a single chainring.

You need:
Shifter
Cassette
Chain
rear derailleur
11-speed hub
chainring

This for example
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sram-X01-11S...25294087&rt=nc

Plus an 11 speed freehub body which may or may not be available for your hubs, plus a chainring that fits on your cranks. For me it's an $80 part from easton plus a $78 direct mount chainring from wolftooth.

Usually you can just get a narrow-wide chainring that bolts to your existing cranks instead of buying the sram 1x cranks.

Costs almost $1000 to go 1x11, whereas 1x10 with a 42t cog is like $200.

[mntlion]

is anyone making a 28T for the sram X1 yet?

[beaterdit]

I believe the spiders is removable on the X1 crank so you can go direct mount with a 28 of your choice. I think.

[jamal]

Yeah looks like it:

https://www.sram.com/sram/mountain/p...-sync-crankset

But I don't see why you should spend $300 on one when you can do the same thing with a bunch of other sram cranks.

[TahoeJ]

Costs almost $1000 to go 1x11, whereas 1x10 with a 42t cog is like $200.

Good point, crazy how quickly that can add up. I'm more likely to just wait until I upgrade to a new ride.

[scrublover]

$748.99 shipped for a chain, cassette, shifter, derailleur, and XD driver for my Hope hub from JensonUSA for the X1 level.

Not sure from the local shops. Those of ya'll with a hook up obviously for less. I'm not going there yet, but when time comes to replace enough stuff all at once, it's tempting. The XD driver body setup for King or Hadley stuff is stoopid spendy.

Four bikes with 1x10 now, one playing with a 30 x 11-40 setup that has been working very well. For drastically less $$$. Can snag a longer cage rear mech and one of the larger aftermarket cogs for uner $200.

I'm inclined towards sticking with that for now. Whenever a derailleur blows up, plan is to replace with a medium cage and bump to a 40t rear at the same time. Running out of top end isn't an issue for me around here, and the 36t low is fine as well other than the once in a while end of a long and painful ride. Kinda nice having that bail out option, or when getting to places that have more climbing than my local riding spots.

[kidwoo]

Good point, crazy how quickly that can add up. I'm more likely to just wait until I upgrade to a new ride.

Front derailleurs still work too.

I'm on a bike that's a bitch to set them up on so I was particularly eager to throw money at the situation. I'm glad I did but if I hadn't had a short history of bending front derailleur cages I would have cared a lot less. IMO if you're going to go 1x, and you pedal on descents and ride a bike or certain climbs that lend themselves to low gearing, scram 11sp is the only way to go. If you ride a light bike, only ride short loops, are just in really strong shape, then maybe 1x10 will work for you. I wouldn't run it with the shitty dirt around here and my 30lb trail bike.

With a 1x10 you're sacrificing one end of 'normal' mtb gear range. That kind of sucks.

But then again, front derailleurs still work.

[::: :::]

i rode a niner jet w/ 1x11 last summer at MTB OR after riding an ibis mojo w/ a traditional front ring setup (specs escape me) -- back to back days
overall memory of it was: i didn't miss any extra gearing on the up
(two bikes were totally different on the down so no comparisons there)

[SchralphMacchio]

BUMP - Old thread I know, but now that I'm looking at building a new bike, I figured I'd bump this thread because Shimano XT 11 speed system has kind of changed the costs of the best way to go 1x.

Basically, it seems like if if you are building from scratch, or your 10-speed drive train has seen a lot of miles, or you are still on 9-speed, might as well go straight to 1x11.

Let's say you have existing 10-speed (with clutch derailler), and you want to convert to 1x10. You'd need to buy:

• Front narrow/wide chainring for 64/104 BCD mount, round or oval, 26 to 36t options available: $40-55
• You could use your existing cassette, but if you don't like the range on your 1 x 11-36, you are also adding a 40t or 42t cassette extender kit: $70-80
• You can possibly use your existing derailler with adjustments if going 40t, but if going 42t you are likely going to have shifting issues so now you're also looking at modifying your rear derailler mounting point (goatlink) or cage (RADR): $20-55
• Also bear in mind that your drivetrain might be due for a refresh anyways, so why not just start with a fresh chain and cassette? If your cassette is 11-34 you need an 11-36 to do this update. XT chain and cassette = $25+$55

MINIMUM COST: $40 (Just changing front ring and re-using existing chain/cassette, but if you have steep terrain or you are not in killer shape this is not a good route)
MAXIMUM COST: $270 (11-42 with full drivetrain refresh and new derailler cage)

Last year when I did this conversion I got a new cassette, new chain, was able to leave my cage alone with OneUp 40t/16t cog kit, and I got a RaceFace NW 30t for 104BCD mount which was all together just north of $200.


Okay now let's look at just replacing your existing 9-speed or 10-speed system with a Shimano XT 1x11 drivetrain. You'd need to buy:

• Front N/W chainring, same as before: $40-55
• XT Rear 11x Shifter: $40
• XT Rear 11x Derailler: $60
• XT 11-40t or 11-42t cassette (works on existing Shimano Freehub): $65-75
• 11x Chain: $25-45

MINIMUM COST: $230 (Race Face N/W Chainring, 11-40 cassette, heavy chain)
MAXIMUM COST: $275 (Abs Black Oval Chainring, 11-42 cassette, light chain)
UPSIDE: Smoother shifting with less monkeying about with the rear derailler settings than the above option, compatible with friends/loaners if also using 11x and same rear hub size.

To me it just seems like a no brainer when I compare to what I did last year. Factory 11 speed components will shift much smoother than the hacked in 1x10 stuff. The XT stuff is so much less costly than the SRAM stuff, and I haven't ever really had an issue with XT stuff.

Am I missing something here? And forget about Eagle - this post assumes that money is something of a concern, because if it's not then you wouldn't be reading this anyways.

[mogul5480]

Not able to contribute, but what frame you getting this time? And do u plan on attaching C4 explosive to the lock and putting it on an island encircled by a piranha pond?

[SchralphMacchio]

^ undecided, waiting for insurance adjusters for final decision ... see this thread:
http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/s...27-5-preferred

[skibrd]

If I have the following, what size front ring should I go with if I wanted to covert to a 1x and leave the rear cassette and derailer alone?

Front Cassette: SRAM S1000 36/22T

Rear Cassette: SHIMANO 10S 11-36T

To keep things simple, does anyone have a 10-42t (or 11-4?t) 10 speed rear cassette? And if I found one could I switch out my current rear cassette for it?

[Skistack]

I've been running 1 x 10 with a 30 tooth up front and 11-36 in the rear but needed lower gearing since I continue to get older and fatter.

Just got XT 11speed derailleur, shifter, 11-42 cassette and chain for $197 off bc.com rather than dicking around with a ghetto 10 speed 11-42 conversion.

[TahoeJ]

Don't forget going to 1x11 may require a new rear hub as well.