How much epoxy when mounting bindings?

[Wildtype]

I am transferring my dynafits from one pair of skis to another. I am planning to use 24 hour epoxy, but I am not sure how much epoxy to put in the holes. I have searched, but couldn't find an answer. Any insight would be appreciated.

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[XXX-er]

I always drip a few drops in the hole with a nail and then poke it around into the hole, some will squirt out when you run the screws in which means you got enough

[kingsskier]

You don't need a lot at all. The screw threads shouldn't have too much gap between it and the wood or you will have bigger problems. I put a drop sitting at the top of the hole and the screw will spread it at you screw it in. Put too much and it may make your binding sit a mill or two higher than it should.

[bfree]

I usually use 3.9 grams but FT12s can warrant up to 4.6 grams.

[icelanticskier]

Are you mounting a foam core capped ski? Why epoxy?

rog

[RegCT]

I've always avoided epoxy because I hear it doesn't flex properly.

I usually use a tiny dab of loctite or gorilla glue...tiny.

[icelanticskier]

Montana mounting glue. Epoxy only for foam core skis with no other mounting reinforcement. Or for cheap paper mâché Indy skis.

rog

[sb]

As importent as how much is to cure epoxy at a min of 70F to a max of 120F for optimal strength. Epoxy is always stronger when heat cured.

I also do the XXX hole plug method.

[Voltron]

Less is more - especially when using high strength epoxy. A drop is about right. Too much means that the glue squirts out of the holes and between the binding base plate and the topsheet. That's no big deal with wood glue. Depending on the epoxy, you could be gluing your bindings to the topsheet, and that's not cool.

I don't care what the pullout strength is (threaded fastener in wood/metal is 'enough'), but that's another issue.

[NoPostholio]

3m marine adhesive 5200

[userA]

tgr approved
b

[coldtoes]

Typically I only use epoxy for inserts. Otherwise a drop of titebond 2 then using a nail to get the air out. If inserts then I brush the epoxy into the threads... Sparingly, then wipe any excess off after I screw it in.

[userA]

i yell at the air in the hole to 'get out before i screw into you', works everytime.
b

[XXX-er]

next time try yelling "fire in the hole"

[splat]

If you're transferring bindings from one set of skis to another, it makes perfect sense. Go with the XXX method.
Done well, it will leave your holes somewhat resistant to moisture absorption when sitting around open and also allows you to come back to a solid set of wood/epoxy reinforced threaded holes again.
Just don't over crank the screws.
Also, most glues don't seal carbon anywhere near as well as epoxy does.

[XXX-er]

BTW using slowset epoxy will probably mean you will need heat to ever get those screws to move again, the thing is you never know if a binding was mounted with epoxy SO any time at all you can't get a binding screw to move easily assume it was mounted with epoxy ... try heat BEFORE you strip the head

[zartagen]

I always use double sided tape. Better holding strength.

[Jethro]

. Depending on the epoxy, you could be gluing your bindings to the topsheet, and that's not cool.

Who here has had a problem removing their bindings from their skis because of a little epoxy overflow?

[stuckathuntermtn]

You need 0 drops of epoxy, just wood glue to keep the water out.

[Dee Hubbs]

Who here has had a problem removing their bindings from their skis because of a little epoxy overflow?

Many, many times, you would be surprised how many times a ski tech needs to pry or "persuade" a set of bindings off a ski due to it being epoxied to the top sheet.

[Jethro]

Many, many times, you would be surprised how many times a ski tech needs to pry or "persuade" a set of bindings off a ski due to it being epoxied to the top sheet.

There is probably a difference in slathering the top of your ski in epoxy, and the slight overfow difference in using 3 drops instead of two. I have never had a binding stick to the ski enough to make any impression on me. Plus, most epoxies are not resilient enough to make this an issue. I use G-flex by the way, which is pretty resistant to shattering and cracking.

[icelanticskier]

You need 0 drops of epoxy, just wood glue to keep the water out.

That's way too simple and obvious for the overthinking geeks here.

Rog

[GeezerSteve]

I do what XXX does with long set epoxy (e.g., West System G Flex). 3M 5200 Marine adhesive also works.

wood glue to keep the water out.

Wood glue does not seal water out. Here's what binding screws mounted with wood glue look like after a couple seasons of skiing in the PNW:

[XXX-er]

Sometimes the wood material around those ^^ screws is rotten also white glue will void the warranty on your carbon DPS btw

I have never had a binding stick to a ski top in a permanent way from too much epoxy, epoxy doesnt really stick well to a shiny ski top, just pry off the binding and knock the residual glue off with a razor scraper

[DropCliffsNotBombs]

Epoxy is for building or repairing skis, not mounting them. Use regular binding glue.
DPS is the only exception.