What's a guy gotta do to get a 33mm binding screw around this place?

[dumpy]

Does anybody know what binding style screws are actually called, like in the hardware world? I'd love to find a bulk source of these from outside the ski world (thinking they'll be cheaper with more sizes available).

Neither Terry (SlideWright) nor my local shop as the 33mm ones (for Look heel piece) and I'm starting to get frustrated.

[DropCliffsNotBombs]

I could be wrong but I don't think that ski binding screws exist in hardware stores.
You could go with BF or QK inserts. Then you can source the needed screws from any hardware store.
Or find a ski shop with a healthy stock of misc. binding screws.

[neufox47]

Fastenal?

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[DoWork]

If you can mail me one I can get you its match.

Or an exact spec... I've been trying to stump my fastener guy for years to no avail. They are the best.

[MRR11]

#12 sheet metal screws will be the closest you can get from a hardware store, but won't be exactly the same. Diameter is pretty close, thread spacing is almost the same, and threads will be a bit sharper/deeper (not a bad thing?). They're gonna be regular Phillips and not Pozi too. I personally wouldn't use one as a substitute, but some people do.

[dumpy]

Fastenal?

This is more what I mean when I say "outside the ski world", specialized dealer, online purchase. Not expecting to pick these up at the neighborhood True Value.

[dumpy]

If you can mail me one I can get you its match.

Or an exact spec... I've been trying to stump my fastener guy for years to no avail. They are the best.

I'll see what I can do.... let me see what I've got, can't recall if I need all four or just two (I've got two sets of bindings with these screws, one is about to be mounted, long story). If we can determine exactly what they are and where to buy them, it could be beneficial to all of us (or anyone with Look PX clamps).

[dumpy]

You could go with BF or QK inserts. Then you can source the needed screws from any hardware store.

Duh, it just occurred to me that I really need these to go into a pair of GS boards w/plates, so it should be the same deal as if I had inserts. Any reason I can't just find a screw with the appropriate thread pitch, width and length?

[sb]

McMaster-Carr is where I have gotten many machine screws, helps if you know what you are looking for first.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#

Did you check with Jon @ BindingFreedom?

[ill-advised strategy]

Is there nobody from a binding company who posts here?

I'd also like to know where they source that hardware.

[Dee Hubbs]

If you just need a few to mount your bindings PM me and I will mail you out a bunch. I will look tonight and see how many I have in my parts box.

[GeezerSteve]

#12 non-tapered sheet metal screw (also sold as #12 door hinge screws) is the closest thing available in U.S. hardware stores. Major and minor diameters are very similar to most alpine binding screws (ABS). Thread pitch is a bit different. Most ABS are around 14TPI. #12 non-tapered SM screw is 11TPI. Thread profile is also a bit different -- actually the #12 might bite some core material a bit better. Best to touch the end of the #12 screw with a grinder to make a blunt end like an ABS to avoid base titties. I've done lots of mounts with #12 screws when I'm shimming Dynafit toes. They work fine for a new mount (or remount in #12 screw holes) and in ski helicoils. They even seem to work okay in a hole tapped by a ski screw tap (c. 14TPI), although I avoid that ostensible mismatch by using a modified #12 screw as a tap. Heads for #12 flathead wood/sheet metal screws are usually #3 phillips, plenty of bite if you aren't overtorquing them.

[ill-advised strategy]

So the source of the actual alpine binding screws is some industry secret evidently? Are Marker and Salomon making their own?

[axebiker]

I'd just PM Rontele...

[ill-advised strategy]

I'd just PM Rontele...

I'll get right on that.

[Stikki]

So the source of the actual alpine binding screws is some industry secret evidently?

Yeah, never understood this. I've bought thrift store and ski swap skis just to harvest binding screws.

[Snow Dog]

So the source of the actual alpine binding screws is some industry secret evidently? Are Marker and Salomon making their own?

If you buy them in lots of a million then you can have whatever you want. Or it could be a Euro standard of some kind. There's no global standard for fasteners. Euro metric is different than Japanese metric is different than Canadian metric.

slidewright.com sells binding screws; just not 33mm ones.

[GeezerSteve]

#12 sheet metal screws . . . .I personally wouldn't use one as a substitute. . . .

Why not? I've used #12 screws for many binding mounts. Zero problems, zero pullouts, zero wiggle outs. 11TPI vs. 14 TPI = no big deal, 11TPI actually may bite some cores better. If 21.5mm ABS screws from Slidewright work, I use 'em. But if I need longer, no problem using #12 screws. Just be sure they are non-tapered, like the pic below (sold at Home Depot as #12 door hinge screw). I'm not the only guy using them. I recently did a remount for someone who had her Dynafit toes shimmed by a local highly respected boot fitter. He used #12 screws. Lou D used #12 screws for a Dynafit toe shim.

[MRR11]

Why not?

No statistical reason based on specs, testing or anything. Just prefer to keep things stock if possible. I actually had no issues with the threads when I looked at them side by side, which to me look nearly identical. For me, it's the Phillips vs. Pozi head, and the little ridges on the underside of the head of binding screws vs. the smooth underside of regular screws. (I always felt that those ridges helped "lock" the screw into the binding, keep it from loosening, becoming a spinner, etc. whether they actually serve a purpose or not) Flat head screws aren't an issue with fit, but the Pan heads would be a pain to grind down to the correct diameter. As long as people use the stainless screws so they don't rust or anything, I'm sure they work fine without any issues -- I'd personally just try to stick with the binding screws for the reasons stated above, whether it really makes a functional difference or not. If in a bind like dumpy where I couldn't find any screws in the correct length, I'd probably go ahead and use a #12 sheet metal screw over not mounting the binding at all.

[GeezerSteve]

#3 Phillips bit/screw connection is very good, plenty good for ski mounts.

Re SS vs. galvanized, most stock ski binding screws and replacement screws are not SS. SS heads are soft. Galvanized #12 screws work fine.

Re grinding down screw head diameters, it's easy: chuck the threads gently in a drill, turn drill on, grind down diameter on belt sander or bench grinder. Takes a couple seconds per screw.

Yeah, I hear ya about the serrated heads, which are nice, but not necessary if you epoxy the mounts. And not all ski binding screws have 'em.

[altis]

There's some details about alpine binding screws towards the bottom of post #2:
http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/s...01#post2909101

Officially they're ST5.5x1.8 but #12AB self tappers are VERY close (5.3x1.81).

I have a copy of ISO6004 if you have any specific questions.

[Ted Striker]

Fastenal lists #12-14 type B point sheet metal screws in lengths from 3/8 to 1 1/2. Both pan and flat head (phillips), in both zinc coated and stainless.

That's about as close to an actual proprietary binding screw as you're going to get. As altis points out, 14 tpi is close enough to 1.8 pitch that with an engagement length of only ~ 8.5 mm, there wouldn't be any difference, i.e. you could use pre-existing holes (and vice versa).

If required, modify the heads as per Steve's instructions, and if you're worried about rust, just spray a little rust paint on them the day before installation.

[jondrums]

Yes, the binding companies all tool up the screws to their own specifications. They typically do conform to ISO6004 as altis mentioned above, except with their own head styles (serrations, taper angle, diameter, and even tool type). You will not find a suitable screw anywhere but from the original manufacturer.

Sheet metal screws and hinge screws are not made of the same alloy steel and thus will not be as strong - I wouldn't go there personally. I guess if it worked for Lou and BigSteve, you ought to be alright though.

Last possibility - check out SVST, they do stock a wide variety of binding screws made by Snoli, which conform to the right specifications.