So I just bought a rope

[neufox47]

So I just bought a rope, plan on using it for the occasional winter rappel and possibly a few slope cuts. I have limited rock climbing / rappelling experience and am going to go do some training with someone who knows on rappelling and crevasse resque. But what else should I buy / carry to anchor this thing on your average trip? Was thinking harnesses, 3 caribeeners, 2 slings, then it kinda gets foggy. Some misc rock pro, ice screws, ascenders, do I need these / what else?

[Cruiser]

You'll shoot your eye out kid.




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[brice618]

That's a bigger question than you think and involves a lot more specific information than you have given. If the anchors are bolted, you can do it with the gear you mentioned - a rope, harness, rap device, and locker. But that is one of many many situations that should be taught to you in person. Most people that fuck themselves up do it rapping. Tie knots in the ends of your rope. EVERY TIME.

[itsnowjoke]

Yes. Tie knots at the bottom of your rope EVERY time. Many formerly awesome people are not here any more because they skipped this simple step and rapped right off of the end of their rope. Duh. WTF? Tie the knots.

[LightRanger]

^^^ That.

You have any buddies you can go out with who climb?

To more specifically answer your question, if you're looking for a harness just for ski touring/light mountaineering uses, check this: http://blackdiamondequipment.com/en/...9BORGS_M1.html

[systemoverblow'd]

If you're not going out with peeps that can answer these questions you are basically rolling dice.

[neufox47]

^^^ That.

You have any buddies you can go out with who climb?

To more specifically answer your question, if you're looking for a harness just for ski touring/light mountaineering uses, check this: http://blackdiamondequipment.com/en/...9BORGS_M1.html

Yes, but I don't want to be in a situation where I am relying on them and can't be self sufficient. And all their ropes weigh like 30 lbs. I also would rather use my own gear when instructed. Have a harness and atc already.

[icelanticskier]

rob, if ya need rope, it don't go. just ski what's skiable. keep it pure and light

rog

[Z]

^what system said...

Endless answers here, of course none of this should be learned over the internet. That BD Couloir harness is a good choice if you don't use your harness alot and will live in your pack for the most part.

Some basics...
-Prussics! Learn that.
-At least 2 long slings/pieces of webbing.
-Proper Snow anchors are surprisingly strong (your skis!)
-A capable partner with a harness is a huge asset.
-Ski cuts on belay are fun, but you best know what you are doing if you are belaying yourself...
-Prussics.

[Conundrum]

If you are not going to use the harness much, a diaper harness out of webbing is your lightest option but watch the nut pinch.

Too bad steep and cheap doesn't throw up some mountaineering classes here and there.

[Meadow Skipper]

You oughta at least get a knowledgable partner/mentor, but get these books:
http://www.amazon.com/Mountaineering...qid=1384493901

http://www.amazon.com/Backcountry-Sk...qid=1384494038

[Hott Butt Mud]

So, you just started a thread with so. Congrats, retard!

[Jethro]

There are several types of climbing ropes out there. Single ropes, half or double ropes, and twin ropes. Dynamic an static. For skiing, I'd opt for the skinnier half or twin ropes. They will hold a repel fine, and you won't be taking lead falls on them. What did you buy?

The one time I needed a rope, we did not have one and a buddy got buried when we dug a too exposed pit and the slope slid.

[Meadow Skipper]

So, you just started a thread with so. Congrats, retard!

So I'm thinking I'm going to start all my threads that way.

[rob stokes]

It really depends on where you are for what you would bring protection wise. In many places in Europe rappels will be equipped with bolts, pegs (pitons) or cordage so you can just pretty much clip and go, after checking it all of course.

In places less traveled you are going to have to build your own anchor and obviously have the necessary skills for this. I would recommend taking a multi pitch or mountaineering course as you will learn lots of skills that translate easy over to more adventurous ski touring. With just a little training you will be able to make good quick anchors out of not much more than a few m of cord and a couple of maillon's.

Ice screws and rock protection are usually not used for rapps unless you are in the shit-they are $$$$ and as I said, most of the time with a little ingenuity you can make the anchors with cord. Obviously there are exceptions.

Snow anchors (bollards etc-not deadmen) are good too, I have belayed 2nds with them on moderate terrain but have never rapped off them, I would probably shit myself but I believe you can make them very strong in the right snow.

Deadman anchors can be bomber too, but not something to rap off of as the whole point of a dead man means burying something, skis, poles, axe, pack etc which would obviously leave you without a (probably) much needed piece of equipment.

I once carted a 2 foot chunk of 4x6 up a hill to use as a deadman to lower into a couloir with limited belay potential at the top though. I like to think someone will find it in 100 years melting out of a glacier and wonder how a coffee table leg got up to 3000m.

[NorCalNomad]

YER GUNNA DIE

If you want a book to teach you. Freedom of the Hills
If you want only slightly more helpful answers. Mountainproject.com
If you want to do it right. Find someone who knows what they're doing

[LightRanger]

Yo guys, he said has already has a rope. And then he said he has a harness and ATC.

neufox, I misread your post initially, and I think everybody else is too. Z and rob stokes pretty much covered your actual question. Make some prusiks and know how to use them before you meet up with your friend. Hold off on anything else until after meeting up and working on things. That way you'll have a better idea of what other gear you might want to pick up (in rough order)--e.g. a Tibloc might be nice, additional carabiners for mechanical advantage, pickets, screws, etc.

[LightRanger]

I once carted a 2 foot chunk of 4x6 up a hill to use as a deadman to lower into a couloir with limited belay potential at the top though. I like to think someone will find it in 100 years melting out of a glacier and wonder how a coffee table leg got up to 3000m.

[Jethro]

Yo guys, he said has already has a rope. And then he said he has a harness and ATC.

But maybe they'll take it back and sell him the right one

[Scotsman50]

Well Jeeez ..where to start.
Occasional raps and a full kit for Crevasse rescue are two different things. There's a pretty standard crevasse rescue kit and you'll find that recommended ( with some personal variation based on the writers preference) in most How -to- Mountaineer books..of which there are many and a simple google search will reveal them.

Rapping for skiing a slot or couloir usually involves keeping your skis with you and retrieving your rope and leaving the minimum of expensive anchor gear behind both for cost and not leaving shit behind in the mountains. I've admittedly done most of my rapping for rock climbing or alpine climbing and I've used trees, slings around boulders, rocks flakes ..... fixed bolts, fixed pitons and even a snow bollard...... I've never rapped off ice-screws...too damn expensive or cams or passive protection...again too expensive unless in dire straights and usually you don't want to leave that shit in the mountains.

Read the books...they are easily available and will have all the information you need and give you much better instruction than a bunch of internet retards........
Oh and practice before you actually use it in the field.

The Foothills branch of the Mountaineers in Seattle have a crevasse rescue course and although I have grave reservation about the Mounties, I know the people who run the course and they are good( if very conservative) peeps. I sent my son on the course. There may be something like that offered by a guiding company in your area....most do.

[I've seen black diamonds!]

I want to get some work in this same area before a couple trips I have planned in the spring. Maybe we can meet up some weekend when the snow sucks and practice not killing ourselves. Could also do some crampons-on-rock practice.

edit for clarity: I don't consider myself an expert in this area

[neufox47]

I want to get some work in this same area before a couple trips I have planned in the spring. Maybe we can meet up some weekend when the snow sucks and practice not killing ourselves. Could also do some crampons-on-rock practice.

edit for clarity: I don't consider myself an expert in this area

Cool, I'd definitely be interested in that. I talked to one of the Burlington guides at ESAW about doing a day of instruction with him. He does regular classes but after talking with him he said I'd be better off to get a friend or some friends and do a small group day with him as his regular class would be too beginner. If you are interested. Sounded like he was willing to work on price.

I have some other friends who are have lots of rock experience, but little winter mountaineering experience, but are good to really good skiers.

[I've seen black diamonds!]

^^^pm sent

[DropCliffsNotBombs]

ropes are heavy.

[hutash]

Another option is hire a guide for a day and tell him/her exactly what you want to learn. Not a bad idea to actually learn from someone trained and qualified in such skills. Certainly not necessary, but it is surprising how many bad habits people have (myself included) because they never really learned think right from the start, but rather from somebody who never really knew to begin with.