Fixed a tail split a few weeks ago with G/Flex 650. Holding up perfectly so far.
https://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-...32?recordNum=1
Fixed a tail split a few weeks ago with G/Flex 650. Holding up perfectly so far.
https://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-...32?recordNum=1
Wanted to resurrect this thread since I had some more modern questions.
I need to fix a large sidewall separation, typically I would use Gflex for these types of things, but the viscosity of it is too thick. Has anyone messed around the West Systems 209/105 mixtures at all?
"Poop is funny" - Frank Reynolds
www.experiencedgear.net
Might be in this thread already, but I'll ask anyways. How do I keep my g flex from going bad after it's been opened? Or is that not a thing?
Yeah I usually warm the epoxy bottles in hot water to get epoxy flowing better
I used to thaw my own frozen AQS in boiling hot water after taking it out of the freezer but at the shop I go thru so much I don't bother
I've never tried freezing epoxy to see if it lasts better
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
"Poop is funny" - Frank Reynolds
www.experiencedgear.net
I used to use g flex to get it all back together then urethane on the sidewall. File to match when cured.
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I rip the groomed on tele gear
Yes, heat will kick off catalyzation of epoxy. I've stated this many times, HEAT THE WORKPIECE, NOT THE EPOXY!
Conroy- g-flex comes in 2 viscosities. 650 is regular, 655 is gel.
NWSkier- unused epoxy should last year's. Storage is key. Cool, dry area, devoid of light and squeeze all the air out of bottle before storage
zi
Last edited by tuco; 12-29-2021 at 06:55 AM.
I know GFlex is expensive compared to other stuff in this thread, but it really isnt. ive been using the same gflex size as Tuco for oh gosh. 5 years? for both skiing, archery (building arrows), and random stuff.
It's cheaper per once than the double plunger kits, by quite a bit, for way better epoxy. I spent $18 for 2 4oz bottles quite a few yrs back now
Ended up pulling the trigger on West Systems 209/105 combo. I'll report back to the Mag Brain Trust on my findings for this type of thing.
"Poop is funny" - Frank Reynolds
www.experiencedgear.net
^^^good shit too.
One thing I like about the g flex for ski repair is the increased bond strength especially since you may not be able to prep the substrates like new materials and it's potlife is equivalent with 105/209
"Poop is funny" - Frank Reynolds
www.experiencedgear.net
Not bonding strength.
G flex sticks better to high density woods plastics and metal than 105
G-flex does not stick to whatever syringes are made out of of. I got some dental irrigation syringes. They have a small tip, but warm g-flex flows through them without much effort. After the epoxy hardens poking the tip makes all the leftover epoxy just pop out.
There are the syringes.
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Products are often different in furin countries so this side of the line the quality epoxy I see at the local building supply in small amounts in small town BC has always been the SYTEMTHREE products, I'm using G2 right now
The local pharmacist believed me when I told her i wasn't a heroin addict so she told her assitant to give me a syringe, medium sized (10CC) was a good size for ski work, I mixed the 2 part in the syringe using the CC markings, use it once and thro it away
For a binding pullout/ partial delam injecting a syringe full into one of the binding screwholes was IME a great way to get product into the ski clamp & let cure 2 days
Last edited by XXX-er; 12-30-2021 at 01:26 PM.
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
Not selling syringes at pharmacies is one hell of a dumb policy. I used to ask them if they preferred I shared a syringe.
Well they might sell syringes but its a small town eh
the pharmacist is my lawyer's wife so she just gave me one
Cuz she knows I am in fact a ski gentleman with a skiing problem
as opposed to a heroin addict
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
How about urethane adhesive for delaminated tips. This what our shop used on K2 "GS Race" model skis back in the day. K2 gave us these skis if we sold 10 pairs of "high end" K2s. So the ski sales staff were all on this ski. Almost every pair of those skis had tip delaminations until K2 changed their process or adhesive. The tips had too much shear force/load to be fixed with epoxy.
https://www.tognar.com/urethane-green-pack-3-5g/
Hard man orange.
I think it is a urethane. Sells in easy to measure single use pouches.
And yes. Heat gun to make it flow.
Kill all the telemarkers
But they’ll put us in jail if we kill all the telemarkers
Telemarketers! Kill the telemarketers!
Oh we can do that. We don’t even need a reason
West system technical support is extremely responsive fwiw, If you shoot them an email with the use case and question they respond promptly.
Ok mags, got a bit of experience with teh 209/105 and can compare it to loctite marine, and the TGR favorite: G Flex
209/105 is much thinner in viscosity, which means filling small holes is easier to do. Also makes adding fillers like: glass fiber, kevlar pulp, carbon, chopped steel wool more manageable.
It seems to cure a little longer than Loctite Marine, and G Flex even though on paper it should be about the same.
Most importantly, it cures much harder than G Flex, and is a little more brittle as well. So keep that in mind when you're using it. So, if you're using epoxy for inserts, or popping in hardwood plugs this stuff is ideal, but not sure how well it would work for a top sheet delam...
Biggest drawback I have with it now is the volume required. Its a 3:1 mix by volume, which means that you're mixing a ton for small projects. Therefore I've lined up a bunch of epoxy work in a row, and still end up trashing most of the epoxy that I mixed.
"Poop is funny" - Frank Reynolds
www.experiencedgear.net
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