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Thread: Hot Waxing Backcountry Skins

  1. #1
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    Hot Waxing Backcountry Skins

    Up until now, I have only tried liquid, spray and rub on waxes on skins. Sometimes with a little heat from a heat gun or waxing iron. This is Toko's tech video on hot waxing skins with solid:

    Best regards, Terry
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  2. #2
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    So this made be a dumb question, but aren't the skins for traction. I am new to this whole BC thing. So educate me on the real world need of wax on skins

    Thanks
    "Everybody talks about the weather, but nobody does anything about it"- Mark Twain

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    Quote Originally Posted by wboarder View Post
    So this made be a dumb question, but aren't the skins for traction. I am new to this whole BC thing. So educate me on the real world need of wax on skins

    Thanks
    In the first few seconds of the video he explains why: Basically you don't want the skins to absorb water or else they will freeze or the snow will cake to them.

    I've only done a cold rub in, but definitely found it to be effective(both for glide and for keeping my skins dry) I think a hot wax may be overkill, but maybe for more challenging conditions it may be needed?

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    You slide the skins forward with each step wax can help with this. And it prevents some particular snow types sticking to the skins, making them on occasion useless.

    Traction comes from the pile of the fabric

    I've not tried hot waxing them like this though. I'd be a little worried about even ever so very slightly fucking up the pile whether with the heat or getting pile completely gummed up with melted wax....

    Edit for the missing not
    Quote Originally Posted by Downbound Train View Post
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  5. #5
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    Cold waxing usually does the trick, the hot waxing looks like a potential disaster.
    I don't work and I don't save, desperate women pay my way.

  6. #6
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    I tried this a bit in the spring following this vid:

    http://www.tetonat.com/2008/05/02/wa...limbing-skins/

    It is pretty easy to not mess up the skins and if anything it improves the pile on well used skins. It might give you an extra bit of time before the skins get really soaked or start glopping up but I'm not fully convinced it is worth the trouble.

  7. #7
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    I usually do the melt and rub method a couple times a season, but I don't iron, I just cork it smooth.
    I didn't believe in reincarnation when I was your age either.

  8. #8
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    I've been hot waxing skins for several years, pretty much how that guy (ETA: randosteve) does it, 2 or 3 times a season. Keep the iron just warm enough to melt the wax and keep the iron moving.
    Last edited by Big Steve; 11-06-2012 at 03:42 PM.

  9. #9
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    maybe even a dumber question...but would use of a warmer temp'd wax for my volcano ski skins help with glide and traction/snow glop build up/water repell? I've always done cold rub in...and buy the BD stuff...

  10. #10
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    IME, universal glide wax rubbed then ironed works better and lasts much longer than rubbing on BD Globstopper (or whateverthefuckitscalled)

  11. #11
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    Anyone ever used a rental shop wax machine on skins? They put a very light layer down with a little heat, so maybe a good call for skins.

  12. #12
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    that looks easy as hell, never thought of that.
    nice find.
    crab in my shoe mouth

  13. #13
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    ^^^
    (Ha, it fell on my lap from Toko. You can sign up for Toko tech eBlasts as well.)

    Generally you will achieve higher durability (read longer lasting glide) when you add heat to waxes on bases versus rub ons and many liquids. I'm guessing (as stated) it'd be the way to go, especially if you are using wax on your skins in the current snow temperature range, just like your ski bases. One thing I did feel like I was getting when using liquids and sprays, over rub ons, was a better coating of the filaments and therefore more durability. Liquefying the wax using heat probably flows a bit and coats the filaments in a similar fashion.

    Edit: on top of reduced icing, the improved skin glide on rolling slogs is nice to have. Rather than stopping on slight downhills you can carry some speed, which saves effort.
    Last edited by Alpinord; 11-06-2012 at 05:00 PM.
    Best regards, Terry
    (Direct Contact is best vs PMs)

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    Eeeenteresting, verdy eeeenteresting.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Big Steve View Post
    IME, universal glide wax rubbed then ironed works better and lasts much longer than rubbing on BD Globstopper (or whateverthefuckitscalled)
    ^^^

    This

    Also use a nylon brush against the nap to open it back up.
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  16. #16
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    Nothing new. This was discussed on TT a year or two or three ago. GregL? randosteve's video is from 2008.

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    Nikwax waterproofing wax. Spray on let dry and done.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by shirk View Post
    Nikwax waterproofing wax. Spray on let dry and done.
    I've thought about this before, but never went through with it. I also never got around to researching it. Seems like an decent way to go.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Big Steve View Post
    I've been hot waxing skins for several years, pretty much how that guy (ETA: randosteve) does it, 2 or 3 times a season. Keep the iron just warm enough to melt the wax and keep the iron moving.
    Well, might have to give'r a whirl then.
    I don't work and I don't save, desperate women pay my way.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by PNWbrit View Post
    You slide the skins forward with each step wax can help with this. And it prevents some particular snow types sticking to the skins, making them on occasion useless.

    Traction comes from the pile of the fabric

    I've not tried hot waxing them like this though. I'd be a little worried about even ever so very slightly fucking up the pile whether with the heat or getting pile completely gummed up with melted wax....

    Edit for the missing not
    Holy shit, I didn't realize you actually ski. BC, no less.
    No longer stuck.

    Quote Originally Posted by stuckathuntermtn View Post
    Just an uneducated guess.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Big Steve View Post
    Nothing new. This was discussed on TT a year or two or three ago. GregL? randosteve's video is from 2008.
    I've been hotwaxing my skins for about 6 years or so. Personally I rub it on cold in both directions, then "hot dab" the spots where it looks thin - you want wax under the fibers as well. I also brush the skins out tip-to-tail with a coarse nylon brush after they cool.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by gregL View Post
    I've been hotwaxing my skins for about 6 years or so. Personally I rub it on cold in both directions, then "hot dab" the spots where it looks thin - you want wax under the fibers as well. I also brush the skins out tip-to-tail with a coarse nylon brush after they cool.
    I've been using RainX windshield treatment for quite a while now. It works well and has no hassle factor. I just put a bunch on a rag and rub it in.

  23. #23
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    at round 1:00 mark he explains how going in dry is not as effective...
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  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by soylent green View Post
    I've been using RainX windshield treatment for quite a while now. It works well and has no hassle factor. I just put a bunch on a rag and rub it in.
    How often? Seems like it wouldn't last through a day. And by "seem," I mean I have no idea.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by davieboot View Post
    How often? Seems like it wouldn't last through a day. And by "seem," I mean I have no idea.
    I do it about 3 times a season. That's over about 40 touring days. I'm pretty lazy about it.

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