TAble saw question

**jamesp** · 10-01-2012, 09:40 AM

looking to get a portable table saw.

I like the look of Dewalt DW744XRS, but Home Depot sells a very similar looking Ridgid saw for about 1/2 the price, same capacity, same power motor etc. What's the catch? I have not heard of Ridgid brand - decent or POS? There is also a Bosch model priced in between.

It'll be used mainly for household/hobby stuff (ie I'm not a contractor), but I don't mind spending a bit more on something that will last. Has to be portable as I rent, hence moving is inevitable.

**mcsquared** · 10-01-2012, 10:59 AM

The Ridgid is solid. I had the full size TS for awhile and had no complaints. I sold it and bought a Festool setup for mobility. But occasionally I wish i had a portable TS and the Ridgid one is the one I would buy. I think it consistently get "Best Value" awards from the magazines annual table saw review. However, I think the stock blades are crap.

**toast2266** · 10-01-2012, 11:51 AM

I have a portable Dewalt table saw, generally similar to the one you mentioned. It works well - no problems other than some minor gripes that have more to do with it's compact size than anything. I haven't used any Ridgid table saws, but I have a bunch of Ridgid tools. I would say they're not as nice as the dewalt stuff, but they're certainly cheaper and for the most part, they work fine. For a table saw, I would think that the ridgid stuff would work fine for small projects, as long as the motor is sufficiently powerful. It's not like a table saw is a particularly complicated piece of equipment.

**Winkler** · 10-01-2012, 12:05 PM

I have never used the Ridgid but I have owned the Bosch for last six years. It is by far the best portable tablesaw I have ever used. Super solid fence that works very well and enough power to rip lumber like a champ. Comes with a decent blade, not a forrest but decent enough. If they are priced close I would go bosch, especially if it comes with the roller stand. I'm in canmore by the way if you really want to geek out and stop in to rip a tester 2x4!

**jamesp** · 10-01-2012, 12:06 PM

I guess the main variable/difference would be the fence (?). I haven't used table saws for much precision cutting stuff before.

They are both 15amp motors so presumably same/similar power.
The stand on the Dewalt "looks"a bit more solid. I've only looked online so far so I will have to check in person before committing. I'm really just wondering about nasty surprises because as mentioned, I don't know anything about Ridgid.
Not so concerned about blades as they are easily changed anyways.

edit: prices I found dewalt $700, Bosch $600, Ridgid $350 (on special I think).

**jondrums** · 10-01-2012, 05:41 PM

The rigid portable is great. Get a couple of good blades and you're set to go. I've built a heck of a lot of stuff on the one I borrow.

**wooley12** · 10-01-2012, 06:32 PM

They have always made great calendars.

Seriously, you get what you pay for mostly and HD will have a lesser quality as a rule. But that's probably good enough for homeowner use.

**neonorchid** · 10-01-2012, 07:59 PM

I went with the higher priced of the Hitachi contractor sized table saws because it had the largest table area and a half decent fence. However if i were to do it again i'd go with one that can do dual duty as a router table, such a the Craftsmen. I had to get a router table and quite frankly would've been much happier with the extra size of a table saw/router table combo along with the greater reach of it's superior fence.
I also have a Dewalt 10" sliding compound mitre saw and a recently added a Makita track plunge saw to the collection. I may return it for the Festool only because i want the Parallel rail guide accessory for repeatable cuts and Makita doesn't make one. And no i'm not a contractor etc., just like building things especially loudspeakers.

**jamesp** · 10-01-2012, 08:12 PM

the calenders were the first thing I found when looking them up!

**Jethro** · 10-01-2012, 09:08 PM

I bought the cheap Hitachi table saw, and it has worked ok for me (home and hobby use). If I had to do it again I would buy a better saw, like a Dewalt or Bosch. If I could mount my Bosch router in a Bosch saw, that would be nice.

**Winkler** · 10-01-2012, 09:53 PM

Fence makes a big difference from a usability perspective. Nothing worse than the shit fence that budges a 32nd when you lock it or continuously goes out. Don't underestimate the blade, they cost a fair bit and the house brands definitly cut that corner first since the average dude thinks a blades a blade is a blade. That being said I have no idea what ridged blades are like, however the bosh came with a pretty decent blade. But for the 250 bucks Id probably go orange, unless the fence sucked!

**PhilM** · 10-02-2012, 12:53 AM

I've got a couple of ridgid tools as well as dewalt. Both work great. For the prices listed, get the ridgid for sure! (I believe ridgid also offer lifetime warranty as opposed to the 2 or 3 year dewalt warranty).

**jamesp** · 10-02-2012, 08:47 AM

ok cheers. It'll be hard to go past the savings on the Ridgid - I could get dado blades & maybe another blade or 2 for the difference. I will check them out on the weekend.

**neonorchid** · 10-02-2012, 03:05 PM

Originally Posted by jamesp

ok cheers. It'll be hard to go past the savings on the Ridgid - I could get dado blades & maybe another blade or 2 for the difference. I will check them out on the weekend.

Ridgid is owned by Home Depot, their products seem to give good bang for the buck. I almost went for the Ridgid fixed base/bonus plunge base router but the push button/one wrench for collet bit removal was a deal breaker and i got a Bosch MR23EVS fixed/plunge combo instead.

If you're thinking about a stacked dado set, go to Home Depot/Lowes etc and try fitting them on the saw you're looking at before you buy. Something i overlooked as i didn't know any better. About a year after buying the Hitachi i got the Diablo Dado set and can only fit a few of the blades/spacers and this by flipping the shaft nut around for extra room. Only getting about half the thickness the dado kit is capable of. I suspect many other contractor type table saws are even worse in that regard then my Hitachi C 10RA3.

**jamesp** · 10-02-2012, 04:08 PM

more research says supposedly the Ridgid 4510 will accept 3/4" dado blades. But the saw listed on the HD site is TS2400, which I *think* is an old model... probably explains why its on special. Not sure what the differences are between the old & new model (they look the same?), either way I will check a dado blade fits.

FWIW the Bosch 4100 would be the next choice & it supposedly takes a 13/16" dado.

**Vt-Freeheel** · 10-02-2012, 06:27 PM

I am a builder and have had a Rigid for 10 years. I have cut miles and miles of wood and pvc trim with it and cannot kill this saw. I want one of the new ones with the stand and wheels to save my back. Lifetime warranty would get me this if only it would die.
For me it works great, fence is really robust and accurate and glides on nylon for easy adjustment. We have ripped 18' 6/4 hemolck with no creep at all. Original blade was a thick combo, who doesn't buy good thin kirf high tooth count blades for quality work?
I guess Ishould sell this one and buy a new one if they are only $350 now.

**NmbrdDays** · 10-02-2012, 07:00 PM

+1 with the rigid. They make some quality tools. In my trade we use the rigid chop saws for cutting conduit. That thing is a beast.

I'm iffy about buying tools from Home Depot. I've heard rumors about them getting inferior tools. Could be a rumor. Make sure to spend the $$$ and get a nice folding table with some stands/arms. Vt-free yours will prob crap out on you now you said something.

**climberevan** · 10-02-2012, 08:06 PM

I am a finish carpenter & cabinetmaker, and I have had or used a variety of table saws over the years. Currently I have a Makita 2705 for jobsite use and a Powermatic 66 for the shop.

A point I'd make is that once you've used a real cabinet saw (like the 66, or even a Delta or Jet) you will realize that the portable saws are really toys. The cut quality is much higher, and they are just generally much nicer to use. The portable saws also struggle with dados in anything harder than Cedar. You would be surprised what the used (CL) market offers--you can probably get quite a nice saw for $600.... If you only move every once in a while, the additional quality may be worth the hassle of moving it.

Another thing to think about is whether you would be better off with a track saw system. On many jobs (where I won't be ripping miles of exterior trim, for example), I just take the Festool instead of the table saw. It is much more compact when stored, and MUCH more versatile. Cost is similar to a high-end portable saw like my Makita. There is another system called EZ-smart that will be less expensive than Festool and will give similar results. The track saw systems are also MUCH safer--table saws are notoriously among the most dangerous tools. I really think that the portable table saw's days are numbered.

**neonorchid** · 10-02-2012, 11:22 PM

Originally Posted by climberevan

Another thing to think about is whether you would be better off with a track saw system.
-The track saw systems are also MUCH safer--table saws are notoriously among the most dangerous tools. I really think that the portable table saw's days are numbered.

evan, not to hijack but do you have any experience or opinion on the Mikita track saw? Asking because i recently ordered the Mikita/55" track from HomeDepot dot for $363 and have since found the Festool 495717 Parallel guide attachment which i want. I am mixed about returning the lighter weight less expensive Mikita as it's track won't accept the ll guide or keep the Mikita and buy a Festool 55" guide rail for $105 plus the $252 Parallel guide, (assuming the Mikita works to spec/festool track), at which point i'd only save $87 over the $550 cost of the Festool TS 55. Would be a easier decision if i could actually see the Festool/track as well as the ll guide but no one in my area stocks track saws.

**jamesp** · 10-03-2012, 09:01 AM

I have been looking out for used saws, nothing really close to me though. Also I figured anything saved on a used saw 3+hr drive away would be negated by the gas I'd spend getting there & back.

I did also think about track saws but by the time you add all the accessories, guides, parallel guides, a table to use them on...man they are pricey!
I appreciate the limitations of a portable saw but for the amount I'll use it, the fact that I know it can do everything I need, the significantly cheaper cost.... a portable table saw just makes more sense for my needs.

**mcsquared** · 10-03-2012, 11:40 AM

Originally Posted by neonorchid

evan, not to hijack but do you have any experience or opinion on the Mikita track saw? Asking because i recently ordered the Mikita/55" track from HomeDepot dot for $363 and have since found the Festool 495717 Parallel guide attachment which i want. I am mixed about returning the lighter weight less expensive Mikita as it's track won't accept the ll guide or keep the Mikita and buy a Festool 55" guide rail for $105 plus the $252 Parallel guide, (assuming the Mikita works to spec/festool track), at which point i'd only save $87 over the $550 cost of the Festool TS 55. Would be a easier decision if i could actually see the Festool/track as well as the ll guide but no one in my area stocks track saws.

I have the TS55, MFT, and the parallel guides. I think the parallel guides are dumb. I hate them. I keep it because it is the only option for ripping repetitive narrow pieces like 1-1/2 cabinet rails/stiles. These are the times I wish I had a portable TS. Look at the Festool owners group forum and you will find homemade parallel guides for much cheaper and probably work better for cuts on the left side of the rail. For the narrow cuts (right side of the rail) I don't know if there is a good option. You could probably rig something up for the Makita. The MFT however, for it being basically a real expensive table with a rail attached to it, is extremely handy.

**AlpiNord** · 10-03-2012, 12:32 PM

Originally Posted by jamesp

I appreciate the limitations of a portable saw but for the amount I'll use it, the fact that I know it can do everything I need, the significantly cheaper cost.... a portable table saw just makes more sense for my needs.

I've had a Makita portable table saw since the early '80s and it still works fine for a variety of basic stuff up to fairly exacting. Nice blades help and you can always clamp or bolt on more rigid fence to assure straightness (adding a jointer/planer helps too). There have been more than a few times where I wished I had a a real sweet saw sitting around, but portability and storage size keeps winning. It's easier to pull out the small portable and use it for the little projects on a regular basis. If I had the permanent shop space, I'd get a real saw.

Regarding Ridgid, I think they are fairly decent for the price for the home saw duster and Home Depot backs their tools. I've had a Ridgid shop vac for several years and the motor and overall has been very reliable, solid and serves it's purpose very well.

**neonorchid** · 10-03-2012, 02:24 PM

Thanks mcsquared!
I like the idea of using a pair of adjustable drywall squares for the left side wider cuts. Won't cost much to try and returnable if it doesn't work so well, but i get the idea they'll suffice. Actually makes more sense being directly on top of the board vs. the ll guides hanging off the sides.

**climberevan** · 10-03-2012, 05:24 PM

I haven't used the parallel guides, or the Makita saw. Most of my other tools are Makita, though. Their track saw gets consistently very good feedback on the professional forums, and some think it's better than the Festool. It will definitely work on Festool rails. I would not buy another rail of the same length, though. Although they claim that you can join 2 together, it's kind of a joke--fiddly and still not really straight enough. I got the 109" rail, which is ludicrously expensive but awesome for ripping or just breaking down sheet goods.

As mcsquared notes the one of track saws' major limitations is repetitive rips. I'd love to get an MFT, but since I pretty much always have my miter saw set up on the other side of the room I just can't see the point of spending that much to facilitate crosscuts with the TS55... I use an old hollow core door with 1/2 rigid foam on top as a sacrificial surface. It works great, and is easy to move around.