Anyone using Goo Gone to clean their Chain???????

[wcf3]

R&R is composed largely of petroleum distillates. Hydrocarbon solvents. So it cleans and then lubes. I love the stuff, too, but you are using a degreaser every time you lube.

A petroleum distillate isn't necessarily a solvent (and generally isn't one). Heavy fuel oil and asphalt (for example) are both petroleum distillates.

[creaky fossil]

A petroleum distillate isn't necessarily a solvent (and generally isn't one). Heavy fuel oil and asphalt (for example) are both petroleum distillates.

Not only that, most lubes are not 100% lubricating agent, but instead are lubricating agent + transport/carrier agent + possible dispersant. Unless you buy blocks of paraffin and melt them for chain-dipping, you're gonna use some kind of distillate/solvent/carrier within your chosen "lube."

[jm2e]

What is this, MTBR day at TGR?
For fuck sake. Lube your chain when it sounds shitty. Clean it when it looks nasty. Use Triflow if you don't give a shit what it looks like and use a fancy ass wax/solvent lube if you need it all pretty and shit.
I buy the $16 Sram chain or the $14 KMC chain. Do I really want to put $20 worth of lube and degreaser into making it last an extra month every year?

[ZomblibulaX]

Not trying to cunt up the thread; i was just saying that a number of lubes contain solvents, and as long as you just lube the chain you're doing it right. Wipe dirt off, put lube on, ride the damn thing.

[that dude who did that thing]

Years ago, when I raced road bikes, I used parafin for my chains. It worked great. When I got into MTB it was too much of a hassle because of the dirt and muck that comes with the sport, and the difficulty of cleaning and reapplying parafin. I switched to degreasers, and my chains became loud. I don't ride enough to really know whether it shortened their life. Now I just lube. My chains look dirty, but they are silent. I go through a lot of rags but not a lot of lube. YMMV.

I use the Tech Dumonde stuff for the same reason I use Hoppe's #9 for my guns, I like the smell. Somethign very soothing about being in the shop cleaning/lubing gear with that smell. Just as there is from being in the shop making my rifles spotless. Once again, YMMV.

[Dickeymotto]

I use the Tech Dumonde stuff for the same reason I use Hoppe's #9 for my guns, I like the smell. Somethign very soothing about being in the shop cleaning/lubing gear with that smell. Just as there is from being in the shop making my rifles spotless. Once again, YMMV.

I always thought it smelled like Gorgonzola.

[birdman829]

The main arguement against using solvents/degreasers is that they are designed to first disolve the old lubricant so that it loses most of it's viscosity (and adhesive properties) then evaporate, leaving things not only clean but dry (as such completely unlubricated). If you can get at all surfaces that need to be lubed after cleaning this is fine (just relube the surface). The friction surfaces of a chain though are difficult or impossible to get at directly (without breaking the chain at every link). As such, the inaccesible friction surfaces are only cleaned by flushing and dilution.

Using a typical solvent/degreaser on a chain will generally leave some solvent residues in the most inaccessible places (on the pins under the rollers) because these areas are designed to be difficult to penetrate. After relubrication, these residues will tend to break down the newly applied lubricant and reduce it's effectiveness.

If one still feels that it is necessary to degrease a chain, two possible recommendations:
-If using a true solvent, after cleaning go through and dry the chain thoroughly using high pressure air which will have a better chance of removing solvent residues.
-Rather than using a true solvent, degrease the chain using kerosene which, even if it leaves residues won't actually destroy the viscosity of new lubricant when it is applied (although it will reduce it).

Degreaser is fine to use on chain rings and cassette (although not on derailleur pulleys, see above) as long as the chain is off. One does need to be careful with composite frames and wheels though, to keep any solvents off the composite material, since they can degrade some of these materials. I prefer just soapy water and a toothbrush (if not terribly gunky) or a wire brush (if really gunked up).

Bike shops use degreasers because cleaning goes faster and the results 'look better' for their clients. They, of course aren't necessarily interested in getting the ultimate longevity out of the equipment.

This is by far the best response to this thread tangent. I seem to remember a Sheldon Brown article where he jokingly disassembled a chain entirely arguing that its the only proper method of cleaning and relubing. Short of that, just say no to degreaser.

[creaky fossil]

What is this, MTBR day at TGR?
For fuck sake. Lube your chain when it sounds shitty. Clean it when it looks nasty. Use Triflow if you don't give a shit what it looks like and use a fancy ass wax/solvent lube if you need it all pretty and shit.
I buy the $16 Sram chain or the $14 KMC chain. Do I really want to put $20 worth of lube and degreaser into making it last an extra month every year?

for fuck's sake, quit detailing your 2013 WRX

[john mariner]

I have not used that specific one but I have used a degreaser of Rx marine it works best for me

[Sutter]

Sick 7.5 year-old thread revival.

[sb]

Goo Gone sounds like yer moms nick name.

[XXX-er]

I use a park chain washer with simple green, wash it seberal time to remove ALL the petro goop, let the chain dry out and then I switch to a wax based lube like Squirt or Boeshield which i never wash off and the chain will run very clean

ya an old thread

[El Chupacabra]

Goo Gone sounds like yer moms nick name.

Goo Gone + Gone Girl = yo mama