inserts vs dynaduke plate for easy binding removal

[jon gaper]

These skis are heavy and i will probably never get into dynafit/tech bindings, but I would like to remove the Dukes for travel and to use on another ski. It seems mounting a plate is much easier and cheaper than inserts. But I am a bit concerned about even more stack height. What do you think?

[HHTELE]

Actually plates are more expensive, but they are definitely easier.

I have both plates and inserts. The Dynaduke plates are impressive.

If the skis are allready drilled, it's worth considering inserts. Get the installation tools, and the cost gets cheaper per ski as you do more skis. Less weight, no stack height.

If you buy some basic toools, the cost for inserts, epoxy, etc is less than $50 per pair vs $120.

I used plates on a pair of new skis because I wasn't not entirely sure what their long term future would be- alpine or tele. Had I gone with inserts, that would be whole lot of holes, with the potential for conflict, or having to change mount positions. Now, if I change them to tele, or stricly a lift serve mount, I only have 8 holes per ski.

I have a few days in on the plates, and the height doesn't bother me, but I am not especially sensitive about that stuff.

[bbense]

I'm on my second bag of 54 for the inserts and if weight isn't a issue, plates are a lot less hassle for the DIY'er to install. Maybe I'm just a klutz with a tap or need better tools, but I find that even on already mounted skis getting everything "just right" for Dynafits to be PITA. My solution is to use inserts to mount Dobish plates on skis that I want to switch bindings back and forth between telemark and Dynafit. There's enough slop in the telemark "standard" that I can manage that with my skills and the Dobish plate ensures that the Dynafit holes are perfectly aligned.

Inserts are only cheaper if you do the labor yourself.

I haven't installed Dukes so I don't know what the tolerances are, some bindings are a lot less fussy than others.

Stack height, well you'll just have to decide how gnar you are... I lack the gnar essense so in general I prefer the minimal lift plates provide to give my relatively short legs more leverage on the ski.

[hutash]

I have no issues with the stack height of dynadukes, they work just fine for me. Super easy to install, and ridiculously easy to swap binders.

I have not installed inserts, but with care and practice they sound doable, but easy to fuck up if not careful. Plates allow a reasonable among of error.

[auvgeek]

If the skis are already drilled and you're not swapping for Dynafit, I'd go inserts 100%. Order the appropriate tools from BF.com, watch jondrums' video a couple times, pull the binders off, and install the inserts. Drill a couple practice holes in a piece of 2x4 first, and you'll be fine.

Seriously, I had never tapped a hole before, and I've managed a couple pairs now without a problem. YMMV, of course, but it's not as hard as people make it sound. Little nervewracking at first, but it gets pretty routine quickly. Getting the pressure right on the tap is the hardest part. (Apply a decent amount of downward pressure to start, and very little once the threads start cutting.)

[10% Groomed]

If the skis are already drilled and you're not swapping for Dynafit, I'd go inserts 100%.

Yes. Do this. Dukes are probably more forgiving than any other binding for insert installation. You don't want to be crooked or off-center, but if you are the Dukes have a relatively thin plate that tolerates a fair margin of error. You will be fine.

[hutash]

One important piece of advice, drill first, drink/smoke second. Don't do it the other way around.

[jon gaper]

The skis are virgin,which is why I started thinking about this. I would like to be able to remove the dukes to use on another ski. And I would like to use my AT boots on that other ski so I dont need a "boot quiver" .So the cost is basically 2 plates vs yet another duke purchase.

[bbense]

Seriously, I had never tapped a hole before, and I've managed a couple pairs now without a problem. YMMV, of course, but it's not as hard as people make it sound. Little nervewracking at first, but it gets pretty routine quickly. Getting the pressure right on the tap is the hardest part. (Apply a decent amount of downward pressure to start, and very little once the threads start cutting.)

The biggest problem I have is knowing when to stop with the tap. I guess I'm used to using a tap in metal where it's much more obvious. With relatively soft and squishy ski cores if you bottom out the tap and go just that bit too far, you strip all the threads from the hole. If I had a drill press handy, I would definitely use that ( with the power off of course ) to both keep the tap vertical and to set a depth stop.

I just ordered a V-guide from Slidewright that I hope will help with future mounts. Inserts are definitely addictive, makes adding another ski to the quiver a much cheaper...

[AlpiNord]

The biggest problem I have is knowing when to stop with the tap. I guess I'm used to using a tap in metal where it's much more obvious. With relatively soft and squishy ski cores if you bottom out the tap and go just that bit too far, you strip all the threads from the hole. If I had a drill press handy, I would definitely use that ( with the power off of course ) to both keep the tap vertical and to set a depth stop.

I just ordered a V-guide from Slidewright that I hope will help with future mounts. Inserts are definitely addictive, makes adding another ski to the quiver a much cheaper...

These guides are handy for a lot of things. Glad you got one. We also have 'tap stops' so you can set the depth. They are basically a drill bit stop sized for the tap diameters and work well with the V-Drill Guides and others.

Regarding plates vs inserts, you'll need 8 holes for each ski for the plates. The Markers require 9 per ski. I think if it's just about swapping one flavor binding between multiple skis, inserts are more cost effective and straight forward, but the plates may be easier for some DIYers and do leave the option open for the Dynafits in the future.

[XavierD]

Anyone have any experience with mounting a riser under a dynaduke/solyfit toe? I am thinking about mounting the new pivot/dynafit on most of my skis, and have become aditcted to a 5mm toe lift.

[hutash]

Also plates can be recycled to new skis. I don't think inserts are easy to remove/reuse, but I could be wrong.

[hutash]

Anyone have any experience with mounting a riser under a dynaduke/solyfit toe? I am thinking about mounting the new pivot/dynafit on most of my skis, and have become aditcted to a 5mm toe lift.

I don't see why you couldn't, you would just need longer screws.

[auvgeek]

The biggest problem I have is knowing when to stop with the tap. I guess I'm used to using a tap in metal where it's much more obvious. With relatively soft and squishy ski cores if you bottom out the tap and go just that bit too far, you strip all the threads from the hole. If I had a drill press handy, I would definitely use that ( with the power off of course ) to both keep the tap vertical and to set a depth stop.

Yes, but this is a pressure thing (to me). Now that I've done a few pairs, I think it's fairly obvious when the tap bottoms out (drastic increase in pressure to turn the tap). To start though, I used a sharpie to mark the depth on the tap when it bottomed out in a practice hole on a 2x4. That way I could look at the tap and tell when I was getting close. But remember that you can always back it out, throw in an insert and see if the hole is tapped to the correct depth. (I also used the practice hole in a 2x4 to verify the correct drill bit depth using the guide.)

Anyone have any experience with mounting a riser under a dynaduke/solyfit toe? I am thinking about mounting the new pivot/dynafit on most of my skis, and have become aditcted to a 5mm toe lift.

Reissue FKS/Pivot has 0 ramp angle, IIRC. So I plan on just drilling the skis for the Dynalook w/inserts and then mounting the dynafit heel to the ski (with inserts). Nulls the ramp angle of the dynafits and cuts down on weight. Plates with pivot/fks is ideal cuz it gives the heel a wider mount pattern (if your into that kinda thing).

[XavierD]

Reissue FKS/Pivot has 0 ramp angle, IIRC. So I plan on just drilling the skis for the Dynalook w/inserts and then mounting the dynafit heel to the ski (with inserts). Nulls the ramp angle of the dynafits and cuts down on weight. Plates with pivot/fks is ideal cuz it gives the heel a wider mount pattern (if your into that kinda thing).

My Pivot18s (silver) needed a 5mm toe lift to get flat. The 14s have a flat ramp.

[auvgeek]

^^Good to know. A quick search yielded http://shop.skibarndurango.com/look-...ding-2012.html, which is why I said 0*.