
Originally Posted by
Long duc dong
I'm going to echo what many have said here.
I would go with a funboard/egg type shape, 7-8 feet, maybe 21 wide, with 2.75-3.25 width.
I know you want to progress, but surfing has a very slow learning curve. You want something that helps you catch as many waves as possible. The nice thing about these boards. is that they are useful even when you get better. When you have added a shortboard to your quiver, you can still use one of these on the tiny days. I learned on a 7'6" funboard, and got lots of use out of it, even when I switched to a shortboard.
I would caution against going too low on the volume. As many have already said, it takes a long time to progress, and going too small will kill that porgression. I learned to surf in college, and I saw numerous people try, and give up. The people I saw who tried to learn on small boards didn't make it. You really will stunt your growth if you go too small. I did at one point, and eventually went back to the bigger board. When I did go back to a smaller board, I went to a board with a lot of volume, a fish type board.
I should add that I have your type of build. I'm stocky, but do lots of weight lifting, so not fat. With our type of build, you will always need a board with lots of volume.
I will also echo what Hugh Conway said above: You will never be a ripper, starting at this age. I know it's tough to hear, but it's the truth. That is not meant to discourage you, as surfing is really fun, even if you are mediocre. Starting at college age, I will always be somewhat stiff. The guys who are really fluid, are the ones who started young.
Once again, I can't stress enough to be careful of going to low in volume. It will really stunt your growth.
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