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Thread: Wheelchair Accessible Path Construction Help

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
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    Wheelchair Accessible Path Construction Help

    I'm working on constructing a wheelchair path in a relatives backyard. Apparently using fine reject from gravel crushing is a good pathway material for this type of thing.

    Basic concept is to remove the vegetation, drop the grade to accommodate the pathway material, level the path, compact the soil with a plate compactor, bring in 2-3 inches fine reject, water and compact.

    Do I need to lay a sublayer of 3/4- gravel under the fine reject?

    Do I need to use edging if I'm setting the path level with the grass?

    I'm thinking I'm going to need to set the grade with grade stakes and a lazer level. I'm assuming I can rent one of these.

    Any thought?
    "These are crazy times Mr Hatter, crazy times. Crazy like Buddha! Muwahaha!"

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
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    The sublayer depends a bit on how much water and freeze/thaw action you expect to see. If not, and the native stuff isn't clay mush you'll probably be okay.

    Often I've used a geotextile filter fabric below the fine layer to keep it from migrating. This would take care of your edging issue a bit for containment but I wouldn't put in high plastic edging (at least on the low sides) so you can shed water... remember to really make sure your grades work to keep water moving off or you'll get issues.

    For grade you can probably just pull a line, assuming its a straight path and not too far - you know where it starts and ends so just subtract an offset from that... I can probably explain better if need be.

    Last tip is that some very small amounts of Portland cement mixed into the top of the fines can really help it bind for a smooth non-eroding surface....

    Hope that helps - good luck.

  3. #3
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    Yes, 3/4 gravel is a good idea.
    Yes, edging will help the path look nice.
    Geotextile will keep weeds out.

    Laser levels are overkill for this (and tricky to use if you don't know how to use one). Get a roll of mason line, a line level, some stakes and a ruler for about $5. Tie your line 1' above your grade (or the exact length of your shovel), make sure the string is level and tight (or slightly sloped if that's how you want it) and go to work. Simple and effective.
    I've concluded that DJSapp was never DJSapp, and Not DJSapp is also not DJSapp, so that means he's telling the truth now and he was lying before.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
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    If you're serious about making a wheel chair accessible ramp keep in mind the slope. 1 to 12, or 8.33%. Anything steeper is a beeotch for a wheelchair bound person to push up.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    AK
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    ^ Also, do not forget cross-slopes. 2% is ADA max but sucks for actual users. Obviously all of these recommendations need to be taken within the site specific context....

  6. #6
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    Oct 2006
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    Maine
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    1/12 is max, 1/16 is recommended, 1/20 is awesome

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    11,805
    Forget the laser level. Build this.


  8. #8
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    Nov 2006
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    on the edge
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    Excavate down 3". Put a skim coat of gravel (crushed stone or crusher run) on top of sub soil and compact. Fill to top of final grade with crusher run (1" or smalller is way easier to work and plenty good for a walk), wet, compact. You will drop about an inch from compacting...this is your void for your fines, stone dust, etc. Repeat process with crusher run if you're more than 2" low still. More than 2 inches of fines is too much..it'll be punky, especially for thin wheels. Repeat process with fines untill its rock hard. Geotextile on top of crusher/below fines will help it from migrating as said...doesn't prevent most weeds since they come from the top. Portland mixed lightly is a good idea...that should help hold the fines cause they do like to move a little. Make your walk about 2" higher than than the surrounding grade. Don't use any round stone in the process....you need angular the whole way up
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  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
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    oregon
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    Picked up some grade stakes and line to work out the grades.

    This path way is going to end up being several hundred (300?) feet long. Fairly flat site, but will require some work to get into the 1/16 or 1/20 range in a few places.

    Thanks so far! Measuring and pricing comes next....
    "These are crazy times Mr Hatter, crazy times. Crazy like Buddha! Muwahaha!"

  10. #10
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    One last tip....it sounds like you have a fairly flat site but if you have extended slopes make sure you put in flat rest areas. Even at 1:20 slope it gets tiring pushing a chair for any length of time. If possible place the rest areas where there is a nice view to enjoy. ADA says every 30 inches vertical there needs to be a break in the ramp.

  11. #11
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    Will 1/4-0 Ashpalt Rock work as a top layer? What about #10-0 Crusher Dust wetted and mixed with portland cement?
    "These are crazy times Mr Hatter, crazy times. Crazy like Buddha! Muwahaha!"

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