Tips on driving screws in with a drill?
Is low speed better? Keep plenty of downward pressure, and set the torque so that you can finish the screw by hand?
Regardless I'll practice on some old skis.
Tips on driving screws in with a drill?
Is low speed better? Keep plenty of downward pressure, and set the torque so that you can finish the screw by hand?
Regardless I'll practice on some old skis.
Yup, unless you want spinners I’d do it by hand. The screws aren’t long - not like it takes a lot of time to do it by hand
I just set the torque reasonably low and do the first 2/3rds by hand. At least on alpine skis -- lightweight touring I do by hand cause i'm nervous. I haven't had a spinner because of it. YMMV. Shops pretty much all start with a torqued drill.
well the shop guy does it all day and he knows when to stop, i'm betting if he had to drive every screw by hand there would be some pretty fine blisters before the day is out
BTW Gorilla glue will not blow your ski up when it expands, in fact DPS used to specify gorilla glue to mount their full carbon skis as opposed to wood glue, I glued pieces of dowel into some old holes which were not a tight enough fit and in the morning all the dowels had all been spit out on top of the ski, pretty funny
Last edited by XXX-er; 10-31-2022 at 05:27 PM.
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
I do em by hand, just because I know how it should feel and I don't want to practice with the impact on my own gear. I also only do a couple pairs every season.
A few years ago mom gave me this goofy t-handle racheting bit driver for Christmas. It's one of those tools that you find near the register at ace hardware--definitely not Gunder approved--a classic mom gift. I thought I'd never use it at the time, but now the pz#3 basically lives in it, and it's perfect for ski chores, including DIN + forward pressure adjustment.
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I strip threads by hand. Gotta be careful not to overnighten
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I always use an impact. M12 Milwaukee set on level 1. Tighten 2/3 or a little more until I get close. Then finish by hand. Always with a posidrive.
XXXer- totally hear ya. I could actually see that being helpful on carbon. The foaming working into voids that tear when drilling. But next time I’ll take pictures. There are definitely some skis that don’t like it. Had it happen to a couple pairs in a row. Nothing a quick screw removal and clamping didn’t fix but it was close.
"Poop is funny" - Frank Reynolds
www.experiencedgear.net
I’m a klutz with a drill press. I just clamp down a little DIY drill guide plate, drill, tap, then use my favorite mounting and torquing tools…
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shit you don’t even need to drill holes just brapp in the screws
I didn't believe in reincarnation when I was your age either.
Nice work
Sort of close, there is a mix of nordic ish and something else going on.
Yes, ski tip is to the right.
Nuther hint, its front is named for soft and shear strip of fabric but the rear is named for a locashun in the Alps.
watch out for snakes
LaceGranParadisoNationalPark
Wow, that is unique. Did you put that together, and if so, how did you use them... And... Why?!
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So the rig was a Voile CRB up front, I prefered the 3pin version, and a Silvretta SL heel unit out back. The Silvretta SL toe piece was garbage but the heel is a scaled down version of the bomber 404.
I skied it for many years back when i was telewacking for the ease of touring but wanted the opshun of a heel lock for the gnar. Worked great together. Fast forward and I am either on AT or DH gear so not so much into the hybrdfrankenwanking mode. My closest ski buds had this rig also. Used the T2 boots most of the time. Had the original purple terminators to start out.
watch out for snakes
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