PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.

[AlpiNord]

Awesome post--thank you.


I like to make at least four center marks spaced equally-ish and lay my straight edge across all four. Two marks connected gives you a straight line, three marks connected tells you if you screwed one center mark up, four marks tells you if you screwed one up and which one you screwed up.

What if 2 are off?[emoji848] Good idea. It’s always good to have multiple ways to check your layout and know all the pieces of the ‘jigsaw puzzles’.


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[chicken feathers]

http://www.slidewright.com/Renoun_Atlas/RA07.jpg[/IMG]

[/QUOTE]

Thanks for the tip on that. Just got one of those centering tools from you and was able to bang out 2 quick mounts after work last week...saved me a lot of time!

[Falcon3]

Anybody have a basic tech toe shim design for 3d printing? My library has free 3d printer services but I'm not very good at using the free CAD stuff online.

All the plexiglass I've sourced has pretty inconsistent dimensions, so I figure 3d printing is the best way to get exactly 1/4" thick (6.5mm).

[Thaleia]

Bought a pair of used skis with PX12 bindings that were set for a bsl of 320. My boots are 338. I can move the heal piece back enough to accommodate my boots.

I've set my DIN on the heal and toe pieces.

The windows on the back have me confused - with boots mounted, do I want the windows 'half yellow'?

[rfconroy]

Anybody have a basic tech toe shim design for 3d printing? My library has free 3d printer services but I'm not very good at using the free CAD stuff online.

All the plexiglass I've sourced has pretty inconsistent dimensions, so I figure 3d printing is the best way to get exactly 1/4" thick (6.5mm).

I'd check thingiverse, prusa printers, or grab CAD.

Alternatively pretty easy to knock out using Fusion (free CAD software)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YisW...angmuirSystems

Bought a pair of used skis with PX12 bindings that were set for a bsl of 320. My boots are 338. I can move the heal piece back enough to accommodate my boots.

I've set my DIN on the toe pieces.

The windows on the back have me confused - with boots mounted, do I want the windows 'half yellow'?

https://theskimonster.com/blog/posts...-ski-bindings/

[Just Looking]

Bought a pair of used skis with PX12 bindings that were set for a bsl of 320. My boots are 338. I can move the heal piece back enough to accommodate my boots.

I've set my DIN on the heal and toe pieces.

The windows on the back have me confused - with boots mounted, do I want the windows 'half yellow'?

yes half yellow is best.

I also assume you set din on the heels too.

[Thaleia]

thanks rdconroy that explains it perfectly.

yes half yellow is best.

I also assume you set din on the heels too.

Yeah sorry edited it after the fact, adjusted the toes and heals.

[Brasso]

Does the Warden 11 demo use the same screws as the Warden 11? I want to get a BF insert order in before Warden 11 demos show up in the mail, but I only have Warden 11s on hand. Based on the Warden 13 and Warden 13 demo differences, I would wager the 11/11 demo are different.

[AlpiNord]

Thanks for the tip on that. Just got one of those centering tools from you and was able to bang out 2 quick mounts after work last week...saved me a lot of time!

Good to hear.


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[Spyderjon]

Does the Warden 11 demo use the same screws as the Warden 11? I want to get a BF insert order in before Warden 11 demos show up in the mail, but I only have Warden 11s on hand. Based on the Warden 13 and Warden 13 demo differences, I would wager the 11/11 demo are different.

Yes, the Warden MNC 11 has different screws from the Warden MNC 11 Demo.

The Warden MNC 11 Demo uses the same screws as the Warden MNC 13 Demo, ie 8no. 10mm flat heads for the toes & 8no. 18mm flat heads for the heels.

The protrusion on the toes with my pucka M5 spec flat heads is a whisker over 4mm which IMO is marginal so I prefer to use 12mm and shorten them slightly to avoid bottoming out in the insert. IIRC the BF screws have their own spec head so that could make a difference plus the BF inserts are a tad longer both externally and internally than the QK inserts so if you're using BF inserts which are then slightly recessed you'll most likely be able to use 12mm screws without shortening them but that'd depend on the head height of the BF screws.

[Brasso]

Yes, the Warden MNC 11 has different screws from the Warden MNC 11 Demo.

The Warden MNC 11 Demo uses the same screws as the Warden MNC 13 Demo, ie 8no. 10mm flat heads for the toes & 8no. 18mm flat heads for the heels.

The protrusion on the toes with my pucka M5 spec flat heads is a whisker over 4mm which IMO is marginal so I prefer to use 12mm and shorten them slightly to avoid bottoming out in the insert. IIRC the BF screws have their own spec head so that could make a difference plus the BF inserts are a tad longer both externally and internally than the QK inserts so if you're using BF inserts which are then slightly recessed you'll most likely be able to use 12mm screws without shortening them but that'd depend on the head height of the BF screws.

Roger, thank you Spyderjon. I'm constantly learning stuff from your posts. Cheers!

[vonn]

I'm thinking of replacing a set of Jesters with Pivots on a pair of Deathwishes as I've run out of track for a shorter boot (actually had a heel piece fall off today). Anyone have experience with that replacement and know whether the holes might conflict at all? Hoping to keep them mounted at recc. BSL is about 1cm shorter iirc.

[ripvanwinter]

Mount on the line. Camox Freebird still has a short titanal mounting plate, so you’re bomber no matter what. I’d be hesitant going more forward, I felt like the tips weren’t super supportive.

Inserted on the line for shifts and ions. Thanks for the encouragement. the holes don’t feel too close together at all and i was able to reuse two heel holes this way.

It’s been some time since I’ve installed inserts and I can’t stress enough how much easier it is if you take a little time to check every hole at each stage of the game. Hand test every threading and clean up threads using the tap in your finger tips before inserting with epoxy and clean excess epoxy with an m5 in the same manner once cured.

Basically, if it takes more than a light turn of a screwdriver to thread something in clean up your hole first!

One thing that sped things up this time which I hadn’t done before. Pre thread a skis worth of inserts onto longer m5 screws with double nuts and after you’re done with each one drop it right into a little cup of acetone. This keeps your insert tools from getting sticky with epoxy and cleaning up is super easy.

Other notes: the brake shim on the ion is a PITA to install but it does force into place.

[bern43]

Just mounted some new ON3P BGs and ended up with one spinner. Not even sure how. I'm sure I messed up somehow. I've got a nylon tap in insert on hand. I'm thinking that's the quickest/easiest fix assuming no other spinners on re-mount. What's the process for using these? Drill 5/16 hole put some mounting glue in there and then tap them in? Leaving for a trip on Tuesday and trying to get these mounted beforehand.

[FortySixMac]

Just mounted some new ON3P BGs and ended up with one spinner. Not even sure how. I'm sure I messed up somehow. I've got a nylon tap in insert on hand. I'm thinking that's the quickest/easiest fix assuming no other spinners on re-mount. What's the process for using these? Drill 5/16 hole put some mounting glue in there and then tap them in? Leaving for a trip on Tuesday and trying to get these mounted beforehand.

I would just use some steel wool and epoxy to repair. Feel free to send a DM if you have ?’s.


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[NW_SKIER]

Just mounted some new ON3P BGs and ended up with one spinner. Not even sure how. I'm sure I messed up somehow. I've got a nylon tap in insert on hand. I'm thinking that's the quickest/easiest fix assuming no other spinners on re-mount. What's the process for using these? Drill 5/16 hole put some mounting glue in there and then tap them in? Leaving for a trip on Tuesday and trying to get these mounted beforehand.

Before you commit to drilling out the hole, chop up some fiberglass or grab some sawdust and mix a little of either with epoxy and put it into the hole that spun. Remount the binders but do not tighten spinner screw all the way down. After 24hrs, snug it up. If that fails, then commit to insert.

When you remount, turn screws gently backwards and you'll feel them "fall into" the existing threads, and greaty reduce your chance of additional spinners.

[bern43]

For fiberglass would the pink insulation in the attic work? I can take a trip to home depot if needed. But I already have that!

Edit: The threads look too messed up (i.e. not there at all). So I'm not thinking the epoxy and fiberglass method will really work. Likely going to have to either get a helicoil or go inserts. I've got dynalook plates on an older pair of skis with no extra pivots. So I might do that.

[XXX-er]

I've used 2 part epoxy to redo the threads in a binding screw hole, I mixed in some FG strands with epoxy

I've never used it but pink insulation will probably also work

cram a mixture of FG & epoxy in the hole ( wet out the FG but don't make it too resin rich )

tighten the screw down down unitil just before the screw spins, let it cure 24hrs and if you can crank the screw down hard ... its no longer spinning

[bern43]

I've got all the tools for inserts and the screws for Pivots so I'll likely go that route. The inserts are 9mm. Drill bit has a collar at 9.5mm. Not sure if this is right. The test inserts I've done all went too far into the ski if I screwed them in all the way. I'd stop at flush for the actual skis. Just want to make sure I don't need to move the collar on the drill bit. Last time I did inserts was a few years ago!

[AlpiNord]

I've got all the tools for inserts and the screws for Pivots so I'll likely go that route. The inserts are 9mm. Drill bit has a collar at 9.5mm. Not sure if this is right. The test inserts I've done all went too far into the ski if I screwed them in all the way. I'd stop at flush for the actual skis. Just want to make sure I don't need to move the collar on the drill bit. Last time I did inserts was a few years ago!

A quick check is to put the insert on the stop to compare drill bit tip to the insert tip relative heights. Adjust as needed.


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[AlpiNord]

Anybody have a basic tech toe shim design for 3d printing? My library has free 3d printer services but I'm not very good at using the free CAD stuff online.

All the plexiglass I've sourced has pretty inconsistent dimensions, so I figure 3d printing is the best way to get exactly 1/4" thick (6.5mm).

If you send me the shape with dimensions you want, I could bang one out. Flatbed scanners work well for scanning bindings.


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[Spyderjon]

I'm thinking of replacing a set of Jesters with Pivots on a pair of Deathwishes as I've run out of track for a shorter boot (actually had a heel piece fall off today). Anyone have experience with that replacement and know whether the holes might conflict at all? Hoping to keep them mounted at recc. BSL is about 1cm shorter iirc.

That'll clash badly at the toe. Here's a 310mm Jester and a 300mm pattern:

[bern43]

I've used 2 part epoxy to redo the threads in a binding screw hole, I mixed in some FG strands with epoxy

I've never used it but pink insulation will probably also work

cram a mixture of FG & epoxy in the hole ( wet out the FG but don't make it too resin rich )

tighten the screw down down unitil just before the screw spins, let it cure 24hrs and if you can crank the screw down hard ... its no longer spinning

Hardware store had some fiberglass cloth so I tried this method. The screw is really spinning so I'm not sure it will work. I'll do inserts tomorrow if it doesn't.

Stilly question. When I try and crank the screw down tomorrow should it actually spin some or will the epoxy prevent that?

[XXX-er]

I've always cut up 1/2" pieces of FG cloth to mix with epoxy, my reasoning being that the hole is about 1/2" deep, I wana wet out the FG strands but not have a too resin rich mix

IME next day the epoxy will not yet be completely bonded to the screw so it lets go

but the mixture will stuck to the wood inside of the hole

others here in TGR have used this method with success

[bern43]

Got it. I used 24 hr marine epoxy. Should I wait the full 24 hours before trying to crank down on the screw or just give it a go tomorrow morning?