PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.

[margotron]

In my opinion, these are the real tools of the trade — dies. When I plug a hole I use hardwood dowels and a die. I recut the hole w/ a sharp tap, then I inject epoxy into the bottom w/ a syringe (the syringes for dogs are good. Next just screw the wooden plug in. As far as I can tell, it is literally just like new. The pics below are plugged normal and insert holes. I view that ski as brand new for mounting purposes.

I messed up an insert mount by 2mm last year and chose to plug and mount on top of the dowel. Several DIN12 ejects later, everything is rock solid.

I also highly recommend G-Flex. Pricey stuff but you get a ton of it actually and it is just unmatched. I also like gorilla glue brand epoxy better than JB weld for some reason.

[Speedfreak]

Where do you get your dies?

[margotron]

Where do you get your dies?

I got mine at Ace. Theyre Irwin — a good brand IME but theyre nothing special. Google A/B Tap and Binding Freedom Tap and go look for a die with the same stats

[Drazzamatazz]

I start with a normal ski bit because it's easy and I'm more sure the bit will track into the divot I've made.

#1 most important thing with inserts is to mount the binding with machine screws right away before the epoxy has set. Being even 1mm off can wreck a mount with inserts while 1mm with a normal mount is unnoticeable. If you get the binding mounted when the epoxy is still malleable, you can get away with being a teeny bit off because the insert will align itself with the screw. Saved my drunk ass more than once

This is extra extra true if drilling and tapping by hand.

Side note: I've found tapping cleanly and vertical way more important than using a drill press. Seen plenty of insert jobs affected by bad tapping. Never from hand drilling.

Good tip. I'm not totally sure I have the screws required for all the inserts I planned on doing. Guess I'll do a regular mount before and make sure I got the right screws for the inserts. Thanks!

Sent from my SM-G950U1 using TGR Forums mobile app

[::: :::]

Good tip. I'm not totally sure I have the screws required for all the inserts I planned on doing. Guess I'll do a regular mount before and make sure I got the right screws for the inserts. Thanks!

Sent from my SM-G950U1 using TGR Forums mobile app

check out slidewright.com
there's good info there on fastener choices
https://www.slidewright.com/category...ski-snowboard/

https://www.slidewright.com/measurin...ill-bits-taps/
https://www.slidewright.com/binding-...screw-lengths/
https://www.slidewright.com/stainles...eaded-inserts/

[Speedfreak]

I got mine at Ace. Theyre Irwin — a good brand IME but theyre nothing special. Google A/B Tap and Binding Freedom Tap and go look for a die with the same stats

Will do, thanks! Been trying to figure out a good solution to plugging misdrilled or old/unused BF holes after I yank the inserts. This looks way better than just filling with epoxy and shavings.

[margotron]

Will do, thanks! Been trying to figure out a good solution to plugging misdrilled or old/unused BF holes after I yank the inserts. This looks way better than just filling with epoxy and shavings.

It is!

[margotron]

Good tip. I'm not totally sure I have the screws required for all the inserts I planned on doing. Guess I'll do a regular mount before and make sure I got the right screws for the inserts. Thanks!

Sent from my SM-G950U1 using TGR Forums mobile app

Be bold! I don't ski them with a regular mount. I just do a pilot hole then immediately follow up with the insert do bit.

Re screws...look at your binding then go to the store and look at the m5 machine screw head types. I am positive they have the right ones. There's no magic here: we are screwing metal into wood. Don't be afraid to use a lock-washer either!

[doebedoe]

Yo Homebrewd, your skis are mounted.

[pfluffenmeister]

In my opinion, these are the real tools of the trade — dies. When I plug a hole I use hardwood dowels and a die. I recut the hole w/ a sharp tap, then I inject epoxy into the bottom w/ a syringe (the syringes for dogs are good. Next just screw the wooden plug in. As far as I can tell, it is literally just like new. The pics below are plugged normal and insert holes. I view that ski as brand new for mounting purposes.

I messed up an insert mount by 2mm last year and chose to plug and mount on top of the dowel. Several DIN12 ejects later, everything is rock solid.

I also highly recommend G-Flex. Pricey stuff but you get a ton of it actually and it is just unmatched. I also like gorilla glue brand epoxy better than JB weld for some reason.

That is a hella good idea!

[galibier_numero_un]

Be bold! I don't ski them with a regular mount. I just do a pilot hole then immediately follow up with the insert do bit.

Re screws...look at your binding then go to the store and look at the m5 machine screw head types. I am positive they have the right ones. There's no magic here: we are screwing metal into wood. Don't be afraid to use a lock-washer either!

Outstanding comments - too numerous to quote. I tried using a die to cut a thread into some hardwood dowel material once and the wood wasn't as hard as I expected, so the threads were mangled. These were the typical dowels you buy in 3 foot lengths in hardware stores. I'll hunt down some harder wood for future use.

I start with a normal ski bit because it's easy and I'm more sure the bit will track into the divot I've made.

#1 most important thing with inserts is to mount the binding with machine screws right away before the epoxy has set. Being even 1mm off can wreck a mount with inserts while 1mm with a normal mount is unnoticeable. If you get the binding mounted when the epoxy is still malleable, you can get away with being a teeny bit off because the insert will align itself with the screw. Saved my drunk ass more than once

This is extra extra true if drilling and tapping by hand.

Side note: I've found tapping cleanly and vertical way more important than using a drill press. Seen plenty of insert jobs affected by bad tapping. Never from hand drilling.

I agree - this with the caveat of doing a test mount to verify your template of course.

I used to do a "double mount" but I found that the countersink got distorted after screwing in the binding and it was difficult to re-countersink precisely. It messed up the precision of the larger insert holes. Now, I go from a small pilot hole (or standard countersunk ski bit hole depending on mood) to the 5/16" Binding Freedom bit.

I like your comments about aligning the insert mount by mounting the bindings before the epoxy sets. I haven't done this out of fear of a small bit of epoxy being inside the insert, so I'd recommend it with that caveat. I'd also expect that you aren't torquing down the screw fully, but waiting until the epoxy reaches working strength - then removing the screws, inspecting and then re-mounting (Vibra-tite or your favorite thread locker)?

Your point about the importance of insert alignment can't be overemphasized, and I agree that a drill press is superfluous. Like yourself, I focus on the tapping.

You can easily correct a 5 or 10 degree drilling variance in the tapping operation, or more importantly, mess up a perfectly drilled hole with a crappy tapping operation.

I used to line up two squares at right angles to each other and visually watch the tap for tilt. This quickly got old and I took a small scrap block of aluminum I had lying around and bored a tapping guide hole (21/64" for the 5/16" Binding Freedom tap).

If I didn't have the small bar of alu lying around (doesn't everyone?) I would have eventually broken down and picked up one of these: https://www.amazon.com/GATOR-TOOLS-V...EB8YNN0Y4WNKN6

... Thom

[1000-oaks]

In my opinion, these are the real tools of the trade — dies. When I plug a hole I use hardwood dowels and a die. I recut the hole w/ a sharp tap, then I inject epoxy into the bottom w/ a syringe (the syringes for dogs are good. Next just screw the wooden plug in. As far as I can tell, it is literally just like new. The pics below are plugged normal and insert holes. I view that ski as brand new for mounting purposes.

I messed up an insert mount by 2mm last year and chose to plug and mount on top of the dowel. Several DIN12 ejects later, everything is rock solid.

I also highly recommend G-Flex. Pricey stuff but you get a ton of it actually and it is just unmatched. I also like gorilla glue brand epoxy better than JB weld for some reason.

F-ing brilliant, well done. I got some hardwood dowel rod from a place that sells wood for model ship building, can't remember the name of the place. X2 on G-Flex.

[homebrewd]

Yo Homebrewd, your skis are mounted.

Hot damn! Let's go get some turns in.

[homebrewd]

Be bold! I don't ski them with a regular mount. I just do a pilot hole then immediately follow up with the insert do bit.

Re screws...look at your binding then go to the store and look at the m5 machine screw head types. I am positive they have the right ones. There's no magic here: we are screwing metal into wood. Don't be afraid to use a lock-washer either!

Ace always has all the m5s you could ever need. A little blue loctite and ready to go.

[::: :::]

Simple drill guide isn’t that expensive
Use it for both drilling and tapping
Adds a step for each hole, but seems worth it when doing inserts

[Muggydude]

Definitely want the drill/tap guide for inserts. Drill press is really nice too, for all mounts

[xone]

In my opinion, these are the real tools of the trade — dies. When I plug a hole I use hardwood dowels and a die. I recut the hole w/ a sharp tap, then I inject epoxy into the bottom w/ a syringe (the syringes for dogs are good. Next just screw the wooden plug in. As far as I can tell, it is literally just like new. The pics below are plugged normal and insert holes. I view that ski as brand new for mounting purposes.

I messed up an insert mount by 2mm last year and chose to plug and mount on top of the dowel. Several DIN12 ejects later, everything is rock solid.

I also highly recommend G-Flex. Pricey stuff but you get a ton of it actually and it is just unmatched. I also like gorilla glue brand epoxy better than JB weld for some reason.

This is smart. For non insert holes what size tap do you re-tap and thread the dowels with? Can't really get #12AB ski dies...

Only reason this wouldn't be as good as new for me and I would be hesitant mounting on top of it is all my skis have metal top sheets

[margotron]

This is smart. For non insert holes what size tap do you re-tap and thread the dowels with? Can't really get #12AB ski dies...

Only reason this wouldn't be as good as new for me and I would be hesitant mounting on top of it is all my skis have metal top sheets

Well the bits are 3.5-4.1mm, then add width of the tap edges. I think I have a 5. Metal topsheet gonna pose a problem fer sure

[Fred Pabst]

Mounted my new f'n 195 Hojis on Sunday.

Half way there.Project Complete.

20" of pow skied on Tuesday for the christening. Pretty fun ski. So different from anything that I have ever skied. These were mounted at -2 cm as per the real Hoji's formula.

[californiagrown]

Stupid question: I have a pair of skis that were mounted with STH16s, and then last year i put some FKS180s on them. turns out i fucking hate pivots for pow skis. To remount the STH16 in the same holes, is it as simple as just drilling through the plugs and installing them in the same holes? Or is it more involved than that?

[reckless toboggan]

turns out i fucking hate pivots for pow skis.

Get out. Just get out.

[emoji24]

[margotron]

I like your comments about aligning the insert mount by mounting the bindings before the epoxy sets. I haven't done this out of fear of a small bit of epoxy being inside the insert, so I'd recommend it with that caveat.
Correct on all accounts. Epoxy in the insert is bad news. I used to get epoxy everywhere. I still do, but just not inside the insert anymore. Great point.

I'd also expect that you aren't torquing down the screw fully, but waiting until the epoxy reaches working strength - then removing the screws, inspecting and then re-mounting (Vibra-tite or your favorite thread locker)?

Spot on. I didn’t mention all that and it bears saying. For the alignment, I use tall screws actually, like 2”. I know you know this already, but the idea is to line up the insert and binding hole by applying a little bit of lateral force, and not to apply any vertical forces on the insert. After the epoxy sets I remove the screws.

I’m a big fan of Vibra-tite. But after I bought one of those 30ml bottles and about 20ml froze on me in the garage, I’ve been cheap and used locking washers. I move bindings around and replace screws a lot, and locking washers beat re-vibra’ing all the time.

But all of you should use vibra-tite VC3!

You can easily correct a 5 or 10 degree drilling variance in the tapping operation, or more importantly, mess up a perfectly drilled hole with a crappy tapping operation.

x10000000000000

[margotron]

Stupid question: I have a pair of skis that were mounted with STH16s, and then last year i put some FKS180s on them. turns out i fucking hate pivots for pow skis. To remount the STH16 in the same holes, is it as simple as just drilling through the plugs and installing them in the same holes? Or is it more involved than that?

That simple. You could go nuts and re-tap but i’d definitely ski them without that step

Get out. Just get out.

[emoji24]

laughing

[californiagrown]

That simple. You could go nuts and re-tap but i’d definitely ski them without that step



laughing

I never tapped to begin with. I figured it would be that simple, but ive never had this issue, only ever drilled fresh holes.

I honestly do not understand why people ski pivots on pow skis. they suck to step into quickly after a hike or in a chairlift lineup. They suck to step into in deep snow. They ski great... but so do STH16s/916s... which are way easier to deal with and IME cheaper to buy new or used. To each their own though.

[doebedoe]

Pivots look way cooler. Simple as that.