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  1. #76
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
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    where everybody knows your name...
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    222
    I used to do my own mounting when I used to tele full time. Drilled lots of holes into skis to figure out where to mount - ended up always feeling best mounted boot center at the manufacturer's recomendation.

    The issue I have is that I'm a bit of a meathead and overtighten the screws - I've stripped a couple of holes now. Ended up doing a temp fix with steel wool and epoxy but what's the easiest way to repair that? I know helicoils have been around forever how do they compare to the bindingfreedom inserts?

    Cheers,

    Coach

  2. #77
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    13,916
    if you put masking tape on the ski top you can more easily draw lines or marks wherever you want to, I don't bother with jigs or templates I just layout on the tape with a T-square

  3. #78
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
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    north aspect
    Posts
    32,519
    coach is mounting skis and training mags

  4. #79
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Live Free or Die
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    2,094
    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    if you put masking tape on the ski top you can more easily draw lines or marks wherever you want to
    Why have I never thought to do this? I guess I'm a retard.
    Dollar sign that bitch.

  5. #80
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    T-town, CO. USA
    Posts
    2,034
    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    I just layout on the tape with a T-square
    You are aware that skis aren't square right?
    Leave No Turn Unstoned!

  6. #81
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    205
    Masking tape/ painter's tape.... two layers so it's more opaque and you can see better.


    Use this to find your center line: Click image for larger version. 

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  7. #82
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
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    off on yet another Tangent
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    Quote Originally Posted by coach View Post
    I used to do my own mounting when I used to tele full time. Drilled lots of holes into skis to figure out where to mount - ended up always feeling best mounted boot center at the manufacturer's recomendation.

    The issue I have is that I'm a bit of a meathead and overtighten the screws - I've stripped a couple of holes now. Ended up doing a temp fix with steel wool and epoxy but what's the easiest way to repair that? I know helicoils have been around forever how do they compare to the bindingfreedom inserts?

    Cheers,

    Coach
    Basically, heli-coils and ss inserts can serve the same repair purpose with a 1/4" hole. Alpine heli-coil threads match your alpine binding screws. The ss inserts need M5 screws and have closed bottoms. Each have there own outer thread taps. For only repairs, IMO, it's a coin toss which one to use. For the swapping bindings option, ss inserts are the call.

    Edit: forgot to mention nylon and brass tap-ins as the easiest fix with 5/16" holes.
    Last edited by Alpinord; 12-12-2011 at 08:59 PM.
    Best regards, Terry
    (Direct Contact is best vs PMs)

    SlideWright.com
    Ski, Snowboard & Bike Tools, Wax and Wares
    Repair, Waxing, Tuning, Mounting Tips & more

  8. #83
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    13,916
    Quote Originally Posted by DropCliffsNotBombs View Post
    You are aware that skis aren't square right?

    sure but I think the sidecut of the ski will thro your lines off the most in any case I use the same T-square as in the picture held against the steel ski edges of both sides of the ski for drawing lines referenced to both sides of the ski and the intersection of the 2 lines is "the line"

    so taking a recent remount of an FR+ onto a JJ as example, I find my boot center line by measuring from the tails and mark it on both skis

    I was able to take a fore-aft measurement for heel piece-to-center line off the old ski which made it easier, mount the heel piece dead center on the ski

    get the fore-aft toe piece-to-center line measurment off the old ski, make sure the bar drops into the heel piece nicely fore-aft and mount the toe piece with 1 screw

    using the heel piece to locate the toe piece drill the other 3 toe piece holes and thats pretty much it

    I usually drill small pilot holes which i chase with the correct size bit so I don't get drill bit walk

    Its a VERY slow process but constant checking makes it accurate & frankly drilling all the holes at once with a paper template scares the hell outs me
    Last edited by XXX-er; 12-12-2011 at 10:15 PM.

  9. #84
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    2,657
    In keeping with the thread, if you want to buy just one drill bit, have adjustable length, and also have a very effective dept collar, I have used and recommend this:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Found here: http://svst.com/ItemForm.aspx?item=D...1-2788838029e1

    As I recall it was around $20. I've used a lot of drill bit collars and always hate them. This tool completely reinvents them and is extremely effective. And before someone says it, sure you can use tape on your bit for a depth indicator, that is very effective, and I do it myself when drilling a hole or two. But the tape can slide up your bit over time, especially as the adhesive gets hot from drilling lots of holes. Or your attention can wander (beer has been known to have this effect, as have other depressants sometimes found in garage workshops), and you put a hole through the bottom of your skis. Not a disaster, just a repair, but who wants to be repairing their brand new skis? This tool lets you drill hole after hole after hole and every one will be the right depth.

  10. #85
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    13,916
    I just drill a hole thru a piece of wood and whatever you leave protruding is how deep you drill

  11. #86
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    291
    Quote Originally Posted by Jamespio View Post
    if you want to buy just one drill bit, have adjustable length, and also have a very effective dept collar, I have used and recommend this:
    That's an interesting drill bit. Thanks for sharing.
    Does it also countersink in one go? And why would one need adjustable drill depth for a binding drill?

    But as for that price you can often buy two fixed binding drill bits, I would still go for those. You hardly drill anything different than 9mm deep.

  12. #87
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    1,272
    Well. Did it again on some new skis. This forum is great.

    Wtf was I paying for before. This is pretty straight forward (till I fuck it up that is).
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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  13. #88
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    "the internet"
    Posts
    340
    Shop rat was stoned when he mounted these for me. I'm really pissed.



    What do you think, shop owes me new skis?

    The TGR sticker and these look like they were made for each other don't they?

  14. #89
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Wrong side of Denver
    Posts
    612
    Quote Originally Posted by Ivan Oder View Post
    Shop rat was stoned when he mounted these for me. I'm really pissed.



    What do you think, shop owes me new skis?

    The TGR sticker and these look like they were made for each other don't they?
    It looks like the heel piece on the left ski is just spun 180 and was mounted correctly, but that toe is pretty impressive. I can't believe that the shop actually let those go out the door. Did you ask any questions when you picked them up?
    Last edited by Smoova; 12-19-2011 at 06:22 AM.

  15. #90
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
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    off on yet another Tangent
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ivan Oder View Post
    Shop rat was stoned when he mounted these for me. I'm really pissed.



    What do you think, shop owes me new skis?

    The TGR sticker and these look like they were made for each other don't they?
    Just get as stoned as the shop rat and ski 'em. You won't know the difference.
    Best regards, Terry
    (Direct Contact is best vs PMs)

    SlideWright.com
    Ski, Snowboard & Bike Tools, Wax and Wares
    Repair, Waxing, Tuning, Mounting Tips & more

  16. #91
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Missoula, MT
    Posts
    197
    Quote Originally Posted by Ivan Oder View Post
    Shop rat was stoned when he mounted these for me. I'm really pissed.



    What do you think, shop owes me new skis?

    The TGR sticker and these look like they were made for each other don't they?
    Is this for real? If so its gotta be a first.
    "Laughter is the best medicine."-stizzmt
    http://www.adamcarolla.com/ACPBlog/

  17. #92
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    291
    Quasi impossible to mount like that with a shop jig. Or did you ask for the holes only and screwed the bindings on yourself?

    My fake alert light is blinking feverishly.

  18. #93
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    "the internet"
    Posts
    340
    I'm just fucking with you. I installed them myself w/binding inserts and flipped the toe around for the photo. The heel is actually installed properly, just spun around. I saw some advertising photo in a catalog/online where the FKS heel was in this position.

  19. #94
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Tahoe
    Posts
    1,415
    Measuring to find ski centerline is the hard way... try the strip of paper trick.

    Cut a strip of paper maybe 1" wide. Wrap it across the top of the ski and squeeze it down over the edges so you get sharp creases from the edges. Remove strip and fold it in half so the sharp creases touch. The fold you just made is the center of the strip. Put the strip back on the ski and mark the center point. Repeat a foot up or down the ski, connect the dots and you have a centerline quick n easy.

  20. #95
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    sfbay
    Posts
    2,099
    ^^ you're better as describing that method that I am

  21. #96
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Banff
    Posts
    3,392
    Quote Originally Posted by Patches View Post
    Measuring to find ski centerline is the hard way... try the strip of paper trick.

    Cut a strip of paper maybe 1" wide. Wrap it across the top of the ski and squeeze it down over the edges so you get sharp creases from the edges. Remove strip and fold it in half so the sharp creases touch. The fold you just made is the center of the strip. Put the strip back on the ski and mark the center point. Repeat a foot up or down the ski, connect the dots and you have a centerline quick n easy.
    That`s exactly what I do. When I have it on the ski I make a little pen mark aswell, and when I put the folded paper strip back on with the middle fold I use that small pen mark as a double check to ensure the paper is back exactly where it was. Once the centreline is in the middle line on the paper template should line up with it perfectly...and then the width marks on the template should all line up as yet another check and sort of a micro tuning check. Yup...it`s redundant but accurate as fuck and really takes no extra time to get it perfect.

  22. #97
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Aspen, Colorado
    Posts
    2,361
    Another thing about finding ski center with a piece of paper or any other means. The further apart your center points are, the more accurate your center line will probably be. I try to use a yardstick length as opposed to a boot sole length for my measurements. If you are 1mm off in a yard, your ski will likely be more in alignment with your boot than if you were off the same 1mm in a boot sole length.

  23. #98
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Ventura Highway in the Sunshine
    Posts
    19,718
    Quote Originally Posted by Patches View Post
    Measuring to find ski centerline is the hard way... try the strip of paper trick.

    Cut a strip of paper maybe 1" wide. Wrap it across the top of the ski and squeeze it down over the edges so you get sharp creases from the edges. Remove strip and fold it in half so the sharp creases touch. The fold you just made is the center of the strip. Put the strip back on the ski and mark the center point. Repeat a foot up or down the ski, connect the dots and you have a centerline quick n easy.
    Fuck that, how can I justify buying a $100 digital micrometer? Don't let your wives read this post.

    I agree it is a constitutional right for Americans to be assholes...its just too bad that so many take the opportunity...
    iscariot

  24. #99
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Eese Cose
    Posts
    179
    The paper method should be explained to the joker that mounted my new Prophet 98s. Went to pick them us yesterday and notice the front of the binding at skis edge on left side of the binding, and 6-8mm space to skis edge on right side of binding. He says "let me measure them" I say "good idea".

    Shop manager comes back out and says "give me a few days, I'll order you in a new pair". Kudos to the shop for doing the right thing without pushback.

    In the case you don't mount your own fucking skis, check the mount fucking closely before leaving the shop.
    Best Regards,

    UMKP

    "Peter, You've been missing a lot of work lately".
    "I wouldn't exactly say I've been missing it, Bob".

  25. #100
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Den/Baltimore
    Posts
    3,935
    ^^Stories like yours are the reason this thread exists.

    Regarding finding the CL of the ski, I thought this was pretty neat. Haven't used it yet though.

    Quote Originally Posted by Alpinord View Post
    (What's up with the editor, no options??? Also, the malware warning yet again??) Great input. Thanks. Reading my mind or this thread: https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/s...86#post3094686? I think reliable jigs/guides and layout tools are the biggies. My ole Marples/Record dowel jig isn't available anymore. However, I've got a couple more options that will be available in the very near future. Several ideas in the works as well. We'll see what shakes out. One thing that appears to be a common element on bindings is either there are center holes and/or a pair of holes equidistant from the ski center line. I revised and simplified the Ski Center 'finder' It can be downloaded here: http://www.slidewright.com/resources...nter-ruler.pdf I've been printing this center ruler on adhesive backed paper. Putting it on a true bar/skiver makes for a very handy tool: I absolutely agree with Jon that drilling the holes either by the shop or yourself should ideally be done first before adding the inserts. After test driving the adding inserts step is very straight forward. Vertical accuracy is also more critical than when mounting alpine screws. Drill and tap guides really help.
    "Alpine rock and steep, deep powder are what I seek, and I will always find solace there." - Bean Bowers

    meager stoke

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