Results 6,376 to 6,400 of 6863
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11-11-2023, 08:20 PM #6376
You'll probably get a huge range of opinions - but I'll give mine...
I've had several pairs of skis where the previous mounts interfered with the desired mount holes. (Like the holes actually touched.)
(I haven't had one, that I recall with 3+ mounts on it, but I'm not sure that matters a ton. But I say this in the spirit of full disclosure.)
All the skis I have experience doing this with were all very burly skis - most with two sheets of metal.
I have simply moved, in all cases, interference or not, to plugging old holes with bamboo skewers and epoxy. (And a little more on top to seal the plugs, BTW)
Then I simply mount wherever I desire. In a few cases, the new holes touch the old ones, and I've never had a mount rip out.
IMO, if you fill the holes, and use epoxy, I think the core is likely to be very nearly as strong as before.
(Or you might die, I dunno...)
[Edited to add: So, to be clear, if it were me, I'd pull all those plastic plugs, (drill the centers out with a small drill, insert a small #4 or so screw, and yank with a hammer nail-puller) then plug them with skewers and epoxy, and mount where you want. If it made me a little more comfortable, I might adjust forward/backward mount a little to add more separation.]
My minimal-worth $0.02.
-Greg
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11-11-2023, 08:32 PM #6377Registered User
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You might have to use some FG & slowset in the screw holes, so you want a cm between holes, IME you can usually re-use screw holes just pull the plugs out with a drywall screw
what is bad/ worse is overlapping holes which lots of people do but i wouldn't
again you want 1 cm between holes
edit: no point in pulling all the plugs, i think once you have cut the core with a drill you don't get the strength back with a piece of dowelLast edited by XXX-er; 11-12-2023 at 11:54 AM.
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
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11-11-2023, 09:20 PM #6378
No need to pull all those plugs and fill with wood and epoxy. Sure they’d be stronger, but it’s unnecessary if the mount point in the second picture works for you. Mount them and ski them.
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11-13-2023, 07:40 AM #6379
I agree with others that based solely on hole spacing I think you will be fine...
BUT...
It looks like you might try to re-use old pivot toepiece rear holes as front holes? They are not the same... that will not work.
Also... it looks like you are going -3 to 4cm? That is a lot in my opinion and I'd suggest if the mount point needs to be that much further back that maybe this is the wrong ski.
Just some thoughts...
Sent from my SM-A536W using TapatalkGoal: ski in the 2018/19 season
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11-13-2023, 09:14 AM #6380
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11-13-2023, 10:59 AM #6381self proclaimed JONG!
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You’re god to go, that new mount looks bomber (assuming the holes you are reusing are actually the correct spacing).
I once skied on skis with 47 holes in each ski. I’m still alive.
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11-13-2023, 01:29 PM #6382Registered User
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- Feb 2005
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Anyone ever use one of these to find the centerline on a ski?
https://www.saltcitysteel.org/shop/p...-center-master
Looks pretty good.
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11-13-2023, 01:39 PM #6383
Would be going about -3, which i think will work on these given recommended is only -2.6 from true center. Blister liked them as far back as -6 from center so i think they’ll be fine.
And the current open holes are royals, the rest are pivots though.
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11-13-2023, 02:44 PM #6384
Love me analog engineering widgets but I'm not sure I see the advantage to one of these relative to one of the slidewright centering tools. I think this would be good at finding center line relative to the edges of the topsheet, but that's an inexact science especially with rolled edges or semi cap. Might as well use the folded paper strip trick at that point. If the points of the outside pickets extended down so that you could center between the ski edges you'd have something.
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11-13-2023, 02:46 PM #6385
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11-13-2023, 10:28 PM #6386Registered User
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My 12 year old mounted up his new GPO’s tonight
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11-14-2023, 06:21 AM #6387
That's a pretty sick set up for that young guy. Good job!!
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11-14-2023, 09:28 AM #6388Registered User
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After reading the last 20 pages, its not clear to me what the preferred glue/epoxy is for a fresh pivot mount (roo/SVST/GG have all been referenced). Please point me in the right direction, thanks!
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11-14-2023, 09:40 AM #6389
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11-14-2023, 10:31 AM #6390self proclaimed JONG!
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11-14-2023, 11:35 AM #6391
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11-14-2023, 12:50 PM #6392Best regards, Terry
(Direct Contact is best vs PMs)
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11-14-2023, 01:25 PM #6393Registered User
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11-14-2023, 02:11 PM #6394Registered User
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11-14-2023, 05:23 PM #6395
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11-14-2023, 05:49 PM #6396
SVST for me on a fresh mount. It is suspiciously similar to Titebond III, except I pay more for a tiny bottle once every year and a half.
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11-14-2023, 05:55 PM #6397
Seems like a good guess, since if you go to their website here:
http://690685.shop.netsuite.com/s.nl...33&category=78
And click the link for the SDS, you get this:
Though maybe Titebond II? That’s what they call their ‘premium’ wood glue. Titebond III is ‘ultimate’.
Edit:
I think it‘s Titebond II. The SVST SDS says it has aluminum chloride. There’s a warning on the Titebond website about aluminum chloride on the Titebond II page, but not the Titebond III page.
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11-14-2023, 06:17 PM #6398
Clear 'rilla
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11-14-2023, 06:25 PM #6399
FWIW I go with G/Flex epoxy. Good stuff.
https://www.amazon.com/WEST-SYSTEM-f...df_B002IZFPQE/
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11-14-2023, 06:39 PM #6400Registered User
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