PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.

[dcpnz]

Why does the toe system need to allow for flex when alpine bindings are all rigidly mounted? Id probably rather reduce rebound flex than have the toe of my binding pop off.

Not wanting to unduly derail this thread but my personal perspective after reading in the other thread about how the factory jig is set up is that it's a engineering choice made by the binding designers and manufacturers and therefore one I would choose to go with also. I don't think ski flex is a plausible reason that binding popped off so I'd rather rebound flex not excessively lever a floating mounting screw.

[teledad]

Santa’s elves have been busy in the workshop. Rustler 11s with Salomon Warden 11s for the girl.

[mtskibum16]

My brother just got some ON3P K116 skis. Seller said they were mounted on the line for 315 BSL with pivots. He needs them adjusted for 305. I haven’t had a chance to verify current mount. Is it best to just move either the toe or heel 1cm? Is 1cm center to center enough space between holes?

As for positioning, just mark center line and use a heel template and line it up with the holes 1cm forward/backward?


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

[SkiLyft]

My brother just got some ON3P K116 skis. Seller said they were mounted on the line for 315 BSL with pivots. He needs them adjusted for 305. I haven’t had a chance to verify current mount. Is it best to just move either the toe or heel 1cm? Is 1cm center to center enough space between holes?

As for positioning, just mark center line and use a heel template and line it up with the holes 1cm forward/backward?


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

Leave the toe as that is what boot center is based off. 1cm is fine. Use g flex and tap in dowels. Let cure for 24 hours shave down with chisel then remount where ever the fuck you want.

Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

[SkiLyft]

Double post - gotta get that post cred up.

[meepmoop24]

Santa’s elves have been busy in the workshop. Rustler 11s with Salomon Warden 11s for the girl.

Do you have a link to a template for the Warden 11? Been trying to find one but no luck so far.

[riff]

Lithic Arlo 120
Hell of a fun day!


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

[grinch]

Lithic Arlo 120
Hell of a fun day!


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

That’d be a ski I’d be after. Nice range of lengths too. What length? Did you weigh them?

[mtskibum16]

Leave the toe as that is what boot center is based off. 1cm is fine. Use g flex and tap in dowels. Let cure for 24 hours shave down with chisel then remount where ever the fuck you want.

Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

Looks like the boot center will be closer to recommended if I move the toe back actually. Is the g flex and dowel necessary or can I just plug the holes with the plastic plugs and wood glue?


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

[jackattack]

Is the g flex and dowel necessary

No

or can I just plug the holes with the plastic plugs and wood glue?

Yes and no.

Find a non-water-soluble glue and you'll be golden. I don't like epoxy for plugs because occasionally I like to drill them out and reuse the holes. Wood and epoxy is overkill unless you need to drill new holes overlapping the old ones.

[2FUNKY]

^ What he said.

[mtskibum16]

Thanks. I have some mounting specific glue so I assume it’s not water soluble? I’ll double check. As for the template, just measure 1cm from the old holes for locating? I’ve never done a half template.


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

[Dee Hubbs]

Leave the toe as that is what boot center is based off. 1cm is fine.

WTF? Boot center is the CENTER of the boot. Equal distance from the toe and the heel, right in the center of the boot. Dont offer advice if you dont know what you're talking about.

My brother just got some ON3P K116 skis. Seller said they were mounted on the line for 315 BSL with pivots. He needs them adjusted for 305. I haven’t had a chance to verify current mount. Is it best to just move either the toe or heel 1cm? Is 1cm center to center enough space between holes? As for positioning, just mark center line and use a heel template and line it up with the holes 1cm forward/backward?

FKS heels often have issues with pull out if not mounted properly. I would not move (or even unscrew) the heels. Move the toe if possible. I'd try to verify the mounting distance of the previous owner. Print a template, line up the heel template with the heel holes and find your 305 BSL boot center mark on the ski, line up the toe template and see where your 305 toe holes line up vs the old holes. You can cheat the paper FKS template 2-3 mms smaller if you need a bit more distance from the old holes.
Dont just blindly trust the "mounted for 315" from the old seller.
Post up if you have more questions. I've mounted FKS for 20+ years, personally and professionally, and have answered plenty of questions in FKS threads here.

[margotron]

WTF? Boot center is the CENTER of the boot. Equal distance from the toe and the heel, right in the center of the boot. Dont offer advice if you dont know what you're talking about.

Sorry brudduh but I gotta chime in here — Ski is right. The toe _dictates_ where boot center will land. This doesn’t come up when doing an original mount on virgin skis because you pick a boot center then find the location of toe and heel, you know? But for second owners, it matters a lot.

A mounted toe location is fixed but the heel can adjust. The reason we say the toe dictates boot center and don’t say “the heel dictates boot center” is that the heel can move forward/back, right? Forward pressure adjustment, etc. Thus a fixed toe location dictates (for different boot sizes) where boot center will fall.

So for the same set toe holes, if the original mount was on the line, a second owner with a smaller boot would be mounted at say +1cm (for a BSL 20mm smaller), or a second owner with a larger boot, -1cm.

[Dee Hubbs]

The original question was "I need to move either the toes or the heels 1cm, what should I move?" How does "Leave the toe as that is what boot center is based off." help? No question was asked about boot center. It does not help, and its the worst option on this situation.
With FKS remounts under 3cms the best option is to not move the heels, especially if you're going to try to mount 1cm away from old holes. Its not a 25mm sliding heel, it's a FKS where the mount needs to be drilled within 5mm of your BSL. mtskibum16 can take my advice or leave it.

[margotron]

The original question was "I need to move either the toes or the heels 1cm, what should I move?" How does "Leave the toe as that is what boot center is based off." help? No question was asked about boot center. It does not help, and its the worst option on this situation.
With FKS remounts under 3cms the best option is to not move the heels, especially if you're going to try to mount 1cm away from old holes. Its not a 25mm sliding heel, it's a FKS where the mount needs to be drilled within 5mm of your BSL. mtskibum16 can take my advice or leave it.

Why so aggro? Seriously.

[Dee Hubbs]

Why so aggro? Seriously.

I'm just trying to prevent some guy from ruining some new to him skis by trying to remount FKS heels 1cm away from old holes.
Not aggro, I'm just tired of seeing bad advice being given on here.
90% of all the binding ripouts my shop fixed were FKS heels. Trying to give the right advice. If that seems aggro sorry.

[SkiLyft]

The original question was "I need to move either the toes or the heels 1cm, what should I move?" How does "Leave the toe as that is what boot center is based off." help? No question was asked about boot center. It does not help, and its the worst option on this situation.
With FKS remounts under 3cms the best option is to not move the heels, especially if you're going to try to mount 1cm away from old holes. Its not a 25mm sliding heel, it's a FKS where the mount needs to be drilled within 5mm of your BSL. mtskibum16 can take my advice or leave it.

Dee is right my dentistry degree is not in mounting. Just my experience in mounting sollys and marker binders. In this case I most certainly do not have 20+ years experience with FKS and I am still getting learnt some knowledge.

Thanks for setting the record straight but no reason to get salty my friend.


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

[mtskibum16]

Thanks for all the advice. The comments on the “toe dictates center” make sense after clarification, but Dee’s advice on close heel mounts is much appreciated. Since moving the toe will lead to a closer BSL in this instance (eyeballing) we’ll probably go that way.


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

[Timberridge]

I wouldn't mind if Pivot heels went the way of the dodo bird. I'm done with Pivots. Brakes suck, no heel adjustment one bsl size up or down, etc. If I had to move 1/2 or a whole Pivot I'd just rip the fuckers out and sell them to one of the Pivot fanboi's on GS...then I'd dowel the holes and put on some modern bindings.

[jackattack]

I’m a self-admitted pivot fan but modern bindings have their issues too. They are not as durable because they’re mostly plastic. Just look at the shift thread or any marker binding. Why are all the Solly fans hoarding 10 y.o. 16-20din steel bindings? I’ve walked out of all kinds of traditional heels on a lumpy groomer, not confidence building in more technical terrain. That adjustment track necessitates a much longer mounting zone that does have an effect on the ski flex, particularly the tail.

Whatever, the kool-aid tastes good imo.

But if you’re getting new boots every season and landing switch frequently, pivots might not be the binding you’re looking for.

I’ve got some metal 16 din Tyrolia/head race bindings on my front side ski that feels pretty bomber. Knock on wood.

[Timberridge]

I used to buy into steel is better but I have a collection of broken bits of steel too.

I converted. My current favorite in the non-touring plastic group is the Attack 13 or 16--light, adjustable, relatively cheap, and I've not had any issues at all with durability.

[margotron]

I'm just trying to prevent some guy from ruining some new to him skis by trying to remount FKS heels 1cm away from old holes.
Not aggro, I'm just tired of seeing bad advice being given on here.
90% of all the binding ripouts my shop fixed were FKS heels. Trying to give the right advice. If that seems aggro sorry.

Copy that. It did seem aggro. How did your shop fix those FKS ripouts? I havent encountered that discussion on here.

I used to buy into steel is better but I have a collection of broken bits of steel too.

I converted. My current favorite in the non-touring plastic group is the Attack 13 or 16--light, adjustable, relatively cheap, and I've not had any issues at all with durability.

One reason pivots have a following is the tinkering ability. You can replace every part of the heel. I agree Attack 13 is a great binder.

[skinipenem]

Stock screw lengths... i ended up pulling the screws... see below for screw sizes if anyone is interested for future reference..

(Placing shims under the toes of my non-zero delta bindings. Need to order screws .25" and .125" longer than stock to accommodate the shims. )

What are the stock screw lengths for toes measured from top of head to tip for:

Marker lords mounted on owl renegades and devastators toe piece. 11mm from bottom of cap to tip, top diameter 10mm. 21mm full length of conical head screw, top diameter 10mm.

Sth2 16 wtr mounted on bonafides. 25mm full length of conical head screw, top diameter 9mm.

Now to find longer screws... might be tough to find 31.35mm 'ish. Screw for the sth2s. Going to call tognar tomorrow.

[detrusor]

Fuck yes.



And more


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums