DIY Binding Adapter Plate - Duke to Dynafit to ???

[10% Groomed]

I think an aluminum version of these plates could be great if they are machined like the DynaDukes or SollyFit plates. Jondrums really does make a quality product. I'm curious what some thoughts are about plastic material. Is everybody of the opinion that it's inferior in strength? Or do you not care for the appearance of a plastic? What if it is lighter and stronger than the aluminum alternative? It's definitely easier to work with in a typical garage.

Jethro, I think you're on the right track. One set of holes for your primary binding of choice with an adapter plate for bindings you might use occasionally. In my mind, maybe the ideal footprint is something totally unique. Something a little wider than any binding, and a little longer. It will allow you to mount any binding with the right plate. If the plate was low profile with the threads coming up into the binding.....

1000-Oaks, can't wait to see what you've come up with.

Back to plastic, take a look at this video. I don't think Aluminum is going to hold up like this.

[1000-oaks]

I would think polyethylene cutting board would work fine, polycarbonate might be tougher but a lot more expensive. Just has to be something that doesn't get brittle at 0 degrees F.

Main reason I was going with aluminum is I have a lot of it, and I was planning to tap threads instead of using t-nuts since stainless metric t-nuts are so hard to find.

[Jethro]

10%, I think the plastic you are using is plenty strong. Your setup would probably be lighter than thinner aluminum sheet stock also. Unless a bunch is machined away like Jondrums does, it would be tough to beat the weight of the plastic blocks. Plus the plastic is easy to cut and drill.

[1000-oaks]

http://www.machinist-materials.com/c...r_plastics.htm

Looks like polycarbonate is two to three times stronger than HDPE. But after reading the experiences with it on the forum, HDPE seems plenty strong enough.

[jondrums]

HDPE is a great material for this project, because it is really easy to drill/machine. Also, with regards to strength, polycarbonate is quite a bit stronger. However it is also comparatively brittle - the HDPE will take a beating better as it deforms rather than cracking.

There is no doubt in my mind that a nicely machined aluminum plate will be both stronger and lighter. I did the design and could sell dynafit toe risers (with duke toe hole pattern) for $65/pair. Is there enough demand? I'll start a group buy if enough people are interested.

[10% Groomed]

I did the design and could sell dynafit toe risers (with duke toe hole pattern) for $65/pair. Is there enough demand? I'll start a group buy if enough people are interested.

I'd probably buy a pair. I know it's already been discussed, but I would be more inclined to pay $120 for a set of toe and heel pieces than $65 for just the toes. It would be sweet if you found a way to mill a new Dynafit heel plate out of aluminum that mounted to the Duke or Dynafit hole pattern. Then you could just move your heel post over and be done with it.

[ARpowhound]

I would buy a pair, but I would like a heel adapter as well. I am using Plums. I guess I could just put 2 more holes w/ inserts in for the heel. I like that all you are working together on this.

[Shorty_J]

There is no doubt in my mind that a nicely machined aluminum plate will be both stronger and lighter. I did the design and could sell dynafit toe risers (with duke toe hole pattern) for $65/pair. Is there enough demand? I'll start a group buy if enough people are interested.

I am interested in this product for $65. Any way you could incorporate the little "nubin" so the ratcheting of the toe into walk mode still works?

[10% Groomed]

^^^Pretty sure his plate would be for you to mount the full Dynafit plate on top of. So you would keep your "nubin".

[1000-oaks]

I would buy a pair, but I would like a heel adapter as well. I am using Plums. I guess I could just put 2 more holes w/ inserts in for the heel. I like that all you are working together on this.

Just sit tight on adapters for Plums (including new heel tracks)...that's all I can say. Somebody is working on it.

[Jethro]

jondrums, I'd be interested in the aluminum risers IF they did away with the plastic riser and incorporated some support under the toe wings. Also throw a nubbin on top for the walk mode. For that matter make it in a Dynafit hole pattern as I don't have Dukes

[jondrums]

I would buy a pair, but I would like a heel adapter as well. I am using Plums. I guess I could just put 2 more holes w/ inserts in for the heel. I like that all you are working together on this.

Since you're asking for a heel plate, why not just use dynadukes and skip the inserts altogether?

[Climber Joe]

Would anybody be interested in a version with very little stack height? Here is my idea:

Thin steel plate (for messing around). Instead of threading, t-nuts, etc. Go straight for rivets. Riveting the binding to the plate means the plate can be super thin. Maybe adding material of some sort underneath to cover the rivet head. Then just holes through the plate to mount to the ski. Either using existing insert patters, or an ultra wide set of holes that will fit around any other binding mount.

It would work well for most bindings, unless its a head binding, and you need to swap brakes. (and maybe solly too). It would also only add a couple mm of stack height. It also doesn't require any secondary machining (milling, tapping, etc).

If I can find the time, and draft up a template, I will make one with a milling machine at the end of the semester. Feel free to rip this apart.

[ARpowhound]

Since you're asking for a heel plate, why not just use dynadukes and skip the inserts altogether?

I want to use my Dukes holes/jig. I'll use the Duke jig, put your inserts in those holes. Then use the adapter for my Plums. Dukes will then go flat on skis.

[Climber Joe]

If the plate was low profile with the threads coming up into the binding.....

I have been working on this idea for quite some time. Anybody know an easy way to have threaded bars permanently attached to the plate? Other than welding screws up through holes?

Or maybe just not fixing the screws to the plate?

[jondrums]

Anybody know an easy way to have threaded bars permanently attached to the plate? Other than welding screws up through holes?

search on mcmastercarr.com for "press-in captive studs"
They are made by PEM and insert into sheet metal.

[Climber Joe]

search on mcmastercarr.com for "press-in captive studs"
They are made by PEM and insert into sheet metal.

Thanks, didn't see those. Any idea what kind of shearing stress it would take to break pull those out though? They don't look terribly bomber.

[Climber Joe]

Also, Jondrums, I think I rebember you mentioning a new tap tool you would be selling soon. Any news on that? Is it just a threaded tap guide?

[crank54]

Thanks, didn't see those. Any idea what kind of shearing stress it would take to break pull those out though? They don't look terribly bomber.

Jondrums beat me to it. PEM has pull-out force and other info on their site:
http://www.pemnet.com/

[bornincolorado]

this is cool

[jondrums]

They don't look terribly bomber.

They are in fact quite bomber. I don't know what you're thinking to use for a nut on top to attach the bindings though.

[jondrums]

Also, Jondrums, I think I rebember you mentioning a new tap tool you would be selling soon. Any news on that? Is it just a threaded tap guide?

off-topic, but its a tapping tool that allows you to quickly and easily tap the holes. Should do away with the tapping guide blocks and allow jongs to cut threads with a little practice. I get the first batch of parts next week, and an announcement will go in tech-talk first.

[Climber Joe]

They are in fact quite bomber. I don't know what you're thinking to use for a nut on top to attach the bindings though.

I was thinking either a camming locknut or just a reg. poly thread locknut. They should both do the job, granted they are thin enough to not interfere with binding components.

EDIT: What do you think about just using rivets? Seems like it would save a lot of hassle. Just harder to take off.

[Shorty_J]

I did option #2. Reason: I can thin my quiver and use an old pair of skis I used as a test case for insert installation that is currently set up for Dukes.

The thickness of the cutting board is only 1-2mm higher than the height of the original plastic baseplate with my Comforts so I will get slightly less ramp angle, but not too much. Also, it's great that this worked out, but it doesn't look like the little "nubin" of material under the walk/ski lever is necessary as the base of the lever seems to be gently touching the new plate when locked-out into walk mode. It must be because the thickness of the material is uniform.

I used 10-32 tee nuts with the 4 spikes in the bottom, pre-drilled some small pilot holes around the hole and hammered them in to place and there is no splitting of the cutting board material. I feel like this will allow me to tighten my fasteners a little more since I know the tee nut wont spin. Fasteners are 3/8" long pan heads so I can maneuver the toe piece around for precise alignment with the heel piece. 1/2" might have worked, but I think I have plenty enough threads engaged.

Weight penalty is a whopping 35g more per ski than the original plastic baseplate, so pretty good.

Thanks for thinking up this idea. I'll post pics if wanted, and while this will work exactly how I want it to, my craftsmanship isn't as good.

Forgot to add: all 10-32 hardware is zinc plated. I don't have easy access to stainless, and if the stuff rusts, I'll replace all the parts for a few $$ and re-install them in the plates.

[10% Groomed]

Nice work Shorty. I've got mine all mounted up in the same arrangement. Just looking for a window to test them.

The "brad" tee nuts fit so tightly that I haven't had any issues with spinning. My hand spins on the driver before the nut spins. I went with Zinc too. Same logic. Stainless adds about $25 to the cost of the fasteners. I'll just replace them if they get nasty.