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Thread: Mower not bagging

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
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    Mower not bagging

    ok running into a weird issue with our mower

    For some unknown reason it will not feed the clippings into the bag while running. I get a little bit getting fed into it, but most of it just clumps and either blocks the blade (and causes it the mower to stall) or just clumps on the ground forcing me to rake way too much.

    it definitely needs to have its blade sharpened but I feel like that shouldn't affect bag filling, but obviously I don't know much or else i would not need this post. other than occaisonally getting the blade stuck on clippings and stopping, the mower runs great

    Its been really wet here lately so its hard to find a dry day to mow, so its often damp. Though the las time i mowed, it was dry and still did the same thing

    Its a Troy-Bilt with honda engine.

  2. #2
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    If it is older and getting rusty underneath the deck you may have lost the sheet metal baffle that directs the clippings out the chute into the bag. If you remove the bag and mow do the clipping shoot out?

    I mow 2 acres weekly with no bag pretty short and never use a bag on the riding mower.

  3. #3
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    Dull blade=not mulching properly

    add in wet grass and there's your problem.

    Might be trying to cut too much at once too, since you say it has been wet and no time to mow.
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  4. #4
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    The types of grass that can be grown around here should be cut to 1.5inches ... most people leave it too long and then cut it too short

    grass buildup under the mower deck , dull blade ,missing the baffle as mentioned it all contributes

    I leaver the lawn >1.5 to try and choke out the weeds and I never bag both of which make cutting the lawn faster

  5. #5
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    i wouldn't have as big an issue with it mulching if it wasn't huge clumps that look awful. so it defintely does not seem to mulch correctly.

    its a fairly new mower, less than 2 years old now., no rust or anything.

    it is supposed to mulch if i don't have the bag on (to my understanding) so nothing shoots out.

    will try and fix/replace the blade and see if that helps

  6. #6
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    If the clumps are big/thick enough to be stopping the blade and stalling your motor than it sounds like the grass is definitely too wet, and probably too long too. Try raising your bed to the highest setting and then stepping it down to the length you want it, and WAIT FOR THE GRASS TO DRY before you mow!!

    A sharp blade will go a long ways too, have you ever sharpened it? It's pretty straightforward, just use the google machine if you have any questions.
    Last edited by JayPowHound; 05-22-2011 at 05:14 PM.

  7. #7
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    What the others have said above is valid. You _need_ a sharp blade, you will be amazed what a difference it can make. Also, there are many different styles of blades, like Gator-blades (brand name, but made for mulching grass), high rise, and low rise. Low rise are quiet but don't bag grass well, and this is the type of blade most consumer mowers come with. If you really want to be able to bag well, you should get a compatible high-rise blade. The part of the blade that is bent, or turned up, behind the sharpened edge is much higher than on a low-rise blade. It generates more sucking force on the grass and more wind, and makes a night and day difference for bagging. You'll never see a commercial landscaper using low rise blades. The only downside to high-rise blades is that they are a bit noisier, but the performance advantage is worth it (get some earmuffs).

  8. #8
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    You need to wash the bag. After using them for a while they get gunked up so air doesn't pass through them and you lose all the suction. Clean the crap out of the inside of the bag, I bet it'll help a lot.

  9. #9
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    Clean the crud out from underside of the deck as well. It will build up underneath and your mower won't mulch or bag very well.


    Oh, and when you put the blade back on after you sharpen it, make sure that it's right side up. An upside down blade won't do a very good job.

    And make sure you balance the blade if you DIY. If you forget, you'll know as soon as you fire up the mower.
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  10. #10
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    A sharp blade is preferable, but your only problem is wet grass... period...Cut the grass without the bag. Let dry for a bit, vacuum it up..
    What I used to do was cut halfa mowers worth of grass at a time. If you use the whole width, it overtakes the bag..Kick bag on the side of the outlet to loosen grass.

  11. #11
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    Everything everyone said...

    All I have to add, is that no way should the grass be cut at 1.5 inches unless you are growing Bent Grass (used on golf greens).

    The blade should be set at about 3 inches and mowed twice/week. If you water, water in the am so it has time to dry out during the day before you mow in the afternoon.

    Also, you shouldn't bag the clippings anyway. Properly mulched clippings create a thatch layer near the ground that holds moisture in and protects the roots. De-thatch each spring, then ditch the bag during the summer.

  12. #12
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    Jeez what a bunch of lawn mower experts. Start posting pics of your yards!

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Crampedon View Post
    Jeez what a bunch of lawn mower experts. Start posting pics of your yards!

    Don't have one, never have :/ Had some pretty satisfied customers back in the day though.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by regct View Post
    All I have to add, is that no way should the grass be cut at 1.5 inches unless you are growing Bent Grass (used on golf greens).
    Annual Bluegrass works too.

    Closest thing I have to a yard:


  15. #15
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    Scrape the gunked up grass that has caked on to the underside of the mower deck every week or so - sometimes after each mow if mowing wet grass. But agree with others.
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  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtaylor View Post

    Closest thing I have to a yard:

    Okay I'll play, it's been beautiful out lately.
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