Surly Troll build questions

[pease]

finally got dough together, looking to make a doit-all bike. Any parts yall have for sale that are compatible let me know

~5'11''/6ft, gona go with 18'' frame



will hopefully get a message back on headset:



as far as wheels go I'm gona support the community, and buy from another thread



I don't do any crazy jumping or real fast MTB riding, but what I'm most worried about wear-wise is the touring I'm planning on doing. Looking to set myself up with indestructible...moderately priced bits.

If anyone has any suggestions/for sale BB's/cranks or mechanical disk brakes would love to know.

thanks in advance for any info

oh and, does anyone know similar or what kind of handlebar this is?

[mntlion]

are you running this thing .....

geared or SS?
disc or V brakes?
single, double, or triple rings up front?
Suspension?
seat post size?
road or mnt bike shifters?

[pease]

gona be geared,
right now Im lookin @ cheepy crank cuz I can get off ebay for 20$, not quite in my indestructible range of what I want my gear to be, but atm I want it to be ridable, can always upgrade later



lookin to get disc brakes, the avid bb5 seem to be goin for cheap @ 30$ a pop on amazon, but IDK anything about discs thats why I left it open to suggestion.

I'll use the surly fork, no suspension.

Tubing: Surly 4130 CroMoly steel. TIG-welded. Main triangle double-butted
Seatpost diameter: 27.2mm
Seatpost clamp: 30.0mm Surly stainless, included
Headset/stem: 1-1/8" threadless
Front Derailleur Clamp: 1 1/8" (28.6mm), top pull
Bottom bracket: 73mm shell width, threaded standard English (1.37" x 24t)
Braze-ons/extras: Full-length housing line guides for derailleurs and brakes; 2 sets of water bottle cage mounts, removable post cantilever pivots; upper seatstay threaded barrels,mid-and low-blade fully threaded through-blade fork eyelets; threaded holes for racks, fenders and trailer mounting nuts; Rohloff OEM2 axle plate mounting slot
Brake compatibility: Disc and rim brake compatible. Note: rear disc brake is limited to 165mm maximum rotor diameter and requires the use of Surly caliper adapter
Tire clearance: 26 x 2.5" with rear wheel fully forward. Clearance for 2.7" tire with wheel farther back
Chainring clearance: 24/36/48t
Hub compatibility: 100mm O.L.D. front, 135mm O.L.D. rear
Fork: TIG-welded 4130 CroMoly, 100mm suspension corrected, tapered straight blade. Low- and mid-blade fully threaded through-blade rack eyelets; fender mount eyelets at dropout; 1-18" x 260mm threadless steer tube, 51mm disc mount, removable cantilever pivots, line/housing guides

looks like 27.2 for the seatpost...just realized I forgot to add a stem too


edit:

this is ~20$ more, but seems to be better -- any comments?

[mntlion]

Wheels:
rear: WTB cross country, witih Deore hub. Disc only. under 100miles (backup)
front: new Alex ace19 with deore. Disc or rim brakes

27.2 axoim post, silver (new)
rocky stock saddle (new, from cross bike)

Deore shifters, and F derailer (new, 9 speed)
XT rear Derailer (used)

Avid single digit 5 V-brakes with deore lever.

100mm cannondale stem with bars.

Square tapper cranks, no rings or BB, 175mm, black, 4 bolt.
12-25 new tiagra cassette (new, 9spd)


make an offer on it all, get a deal, and make my parts storage get smaller.

[pease]

want to get rid of all of it

I got no clue

uh ....150?+ship

[pease]

mmm...how about just the bar&stem/shifters/front&rear derailleurs/ and brake levers...what ya want for that?

[mntlion]

$120 with shipping for that stuff?

not sure, I have not looked online to see the prices of everything..

[pease]

$120 with shipping for that stuff?

not sure, I have not looked online to see the prices of everything..

Think I got most of it covered...nvm, will update list soon

[mntlion]

let me know what you need.

[pease]

never bought a frame before

my friend is telling me to go ask to see the LBS's QBP catelogue and see what price they get the troll frame for, and then negotiate with them on a price. the guy @ the small-town store said something ..verbatim.. "surly has a price cap on their merch, which is why many stores don't carry much" So do they get the frame at the same price I'm goign to pay?

495MSRP? <I found taylorsbikestore.com selling it for 470 notax/shipping tho>


tl;dr?

terrible barterer here...how do I get teh surly troll frame cheapest?

[telesucks]

for mechanical disc brakes get BB7's
They're 100X better than the BB5's and only like $20 more.
Great brakes.

[joetron]

never bought a frame before

my friend is telling me to go ask to see the LBS's QBP catelogue and see what price they get the troll frame for, and then negotiate with them on a price. the guy @ the small-town store said something ..verbatim.. "surly has a price cap on their merch, which is why many stores don't carry much" So do they get the frame at the same price I'm goign to pay?

495MSRP? <I found taylorsbikestore.com selling it for 470 notax/shipping tho>


tl;dr?

terrible barterer here...how do I get teh surly troll frame cheapest?

First: Never ever ask to see a shop's QBP catalog to look at what cost is. That won't end well. They might have a consumer version where you can see pictures and info, but no pricing.

Second: No, they get the frame cheaper than what you will pay for it so they can make money, pay their employees and keep the lights on.

Its tough to find deals on Surly stuff because it generally all sells very well, and every shop can order it just-in-time so they aren't sitting on stock they need to move. Just buy it from your LBS and they will be much more likely to help you out with pressing your headset in and installing your bottom bracket.

[pease]

Was talking to a friend today, and he was saying an inch or so could be all the difference... so Im back to indecision on frame size..

Anyone have troll or 1x1 experiance?

Im right in between 18" and 20" frame...

Im around 6", maybe lil under/over and little over 32"inseem

my cannondale h800 has a standover of about 32" and that is just too_close, so I was thinking 18" right?

Seat Tube Length
(Center-Top) 14 16 18 20 22
Top Tube Length
(Center-Center) 20.9 21.6 22.4 23.2 23.9
Effective Top Tube Length
(Center-Center) 21.5 22.5 23.5 24.3 24.8
Head Tube Angle 71.0 71.0 71.0 71.0 71.0
Seat Tube Angle 73.0 73.0 73.0 73.0 73.0
BB Drop 1.6 1.6 1.6 1.6 1.6
Chainstay Length 16.5 16.5 16.5 16.5 16.5
Wheelbase 39.8 40.8 41.9 42.6 43.3
Standover Height 28.3 29.4 30.5 31.7 33
Head Tube Length 3.5 3.9 4.3 4.9 5.7
Fork Length 17.8 17.8 17.8 17.8 17.8
Fork Rake 1.6 1.6 1.6 1.6 1.6
Frame Weight

the standover is really close to the cannondale on the 20 inch frame <31.7> but friend was saying top tube is the most important... none of the local bike places seem to keep any surlys, so Im going to either have to just order....any help is greatly appreciated !

[mntlion]

TT length is the key not the standover height. You are not running over this bike, you are stretched out on top of it.

sounds like you might be better off just buying a whole bike, that you can try out the fit of first...

[LaBelle23]

I'm 5'8 with a 32" inseam and ride an 18 1x1. My other half is 6'3 (34" inseam) and rides a 20. My 18 feels big for me compared to my suspension bikes (little stand over clearance), but works well for what it is. I don't ride really tech terrain with it so the lack of stand over isn't the end of the world. I would say it depends if you're going to be using it as more of a commuter or a mt bike. If it were my primary bike for the trail I would want a bike that was more maneuverable so would get a smaller size.

[pease]

o&& does anyone have a 1-1/8" threadless durable headset for sale?? and 27.2mm seatpost,

[willmtbike4food]

for mechanical disc brakes get BB7's
They're 100X better than the BB5's and only like $20 more.
Great brakes.

True.

First: Never ever ask to see a shop's QBP catalog to look at what cost is. That won't end well. They might have a consumer version where you can see pictures and info, but no pricing.

Second: No, they get the frame cheaper than what you will pay for it so they can make money, pay their employees and keep the lights on.

Its tough to find deals on Surly stuff because it generally all sells very well, and every shop can order it just-in-time so they aren't sitting on stock they need to move. Just buy it from your LBS and they will be much more likely to help you out with pressing your headset in and installing your bottom bracket.

This is true as well. At the shop I'm at, we won't negotiate on the price. But if you buy a frame from us, we'll face & chase it, and give you the option of Frame-Saver'ing it. Good luck facing the tubes at home, unless you're a machinist or want to spend a couple hundred dollars on a cutting tool that you'll use once. I'm doubting you're near me (Iowa), but if so, contact me and we can help you out with sizing and parts issues.

[Missiongravity]

I want to double down on the pricing thing. It is one thing to be frugal but cheapskates are frowned upon. Bike shop have to make money. I never understood where people got the idea it is ok to haggle on prices of bikes. You don't haggle on groceries at the grocery store or lumber prices at Lowes. Sure shop around but don't beat a path between shops asking them to match this price and then run back to the other shop to get them to match.

Hopefully all the parts I sent tonight work really well. You got a great deal and I think they will work fine for you.

Post pics of the build when you get it finished.

I would vote for the 18" since you are between and it is trying to be your do it all bike. You don't want to be too stretched out on it.

[pease]

the replies have been real helpful, thanks!

I will probably end up going with the 18'', as my cannondale is nearly too big for me, and its a pain to mount.

gonna try and make good on the pictures of the build, most likely only of finished product though, as a camera is hard to come by for me.


wondering what 'facing tubes' means??

is there another thing I'm going to have to pay for?? Was hoping to just pay for frame, crank/bb, and headset application...?

True.
But if you buy a frame from us, we'll face & chase it, and give you the option of Frame-Saver'ing it. Good luck facing the tubes at home

[LaBelle23]

Facing the tubes means getting it ready for the bottom bracket and finishing off the threads. I'm sure there is a more technical answer, but Surlys don't come quite as finished as some bikes and you'll need a shop to do this for you. I stood there while my shop finished off mine before I took it home. Yes you need to pay for it, and no you shouldn't complain about it. It is not pricey.