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Thread: 3 Days to learn my dslr- what matters most for video

  1. #26
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    I'm sure he used a tripod, but unless a person is really short, or your tripod is very tall, you end up hunched over a lot.

    But I'm just speculating. When Powdork replies we can all dissect his actual technique.

  2. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eldo View Post
    I think Powdork is referring to shooting video, since you have to use the LCD. And one that pivots to your view is probably an advantage.
    Not really.

    It's called 'planning your pans'.

    No serious video rig on the planet has a monitor or lcd that moves 'with you'. Move your head when you move your hand.

    It just takes practice. Given........about 5 seconds of practice........... but it's worth every minute.
    Besides the comet that killed the dinosaurs nothing has destroyed a species faster than entitled white people.-ajp

  3. #28
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    not so much hunched over, but tilting the head back endlessly since i'm shooting up at about 40 degrees. also most of the time i would have been pretty much looking directly into the sun which sucks. other problems were the focus searching, especially near the end of the focal range. another problem is that if i used it for video, then i didn't have it as a camera ( i know i can take a shot while filming).

  4. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by powdork View Post
    another problem is that if i used it for video, then i didn't have it as a camera ( i know i can take a shot while filming).
    .......so then you have it for a camera.

    I've knocked off whole timelapse sequences with my canon in video mode without even realizing it.

    I've also shot panning video shots and pulled some good stills from the same pan by pushing the shutter button.


    As far as the light goes.......that's just general photo planning stuff. Either way, I saw your shots from the comp and they don't exactly suck donkey balls. Zebra maybe but certainly not donkey.

    It's just like figuring out puberty. Just keep playing with it.
    Besides the comet that killed the dinosaurs nothing has destroyed a species faster than entitled white people.-ajp

  5. #30
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    i'm sure things would be different with a new p & s, but i'm working on a TR now where i'm using pictures from my old p & s, and the new canon in mostly sports/action mode, and the results aren't even remotely close.
    the main problem i'm currently having is the live view mode, which is what i'm trying to use to gauge some manual efforts. i can't really see the difference between these when shooting. not sure why. wondering if it's the goggles are wiping out some of the blues from the lcd screen.


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  6. #31
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    f/29 on the top one? Holy fuck balls.

    Top one was shot on manual white balance in shutter priority mode. Probably had the WB set to something wonky and the exposure metering I assume was metering from the white snow making everything dark. Bottom one was set to auto white balance as part of the "landscape mode" you were using. And in bright sunlight, with goggles on, looking at a tiny screen, no I don't think you would see much of a difference.

    But it doesn't matter anyway. If you shoot RAW the white balance doesn't really matter as that can be adjusted in post. But I still would rather have the exposure of your second picture to start with.

    Remember, every stop you go in one direction in either ISO, aperture or shutter, you have to compensate for that with one of the other. EXAMPLE: ISO 100 f/4 @ 1/40 sec is (technically) the same as ISO 200 f/4 @ 1/80 sec. You're making the sensor twice as sensitive so you need to let in half as much light. Or ISO 100 f/5.6 @ 1/20 sec would be the same as well. Here you are reducing your aperture by one stop so you need to slow down the speed of your shutter to let in more light.
    Last edited by gameface; 03-02-2011 at 07:47 AM.
    I think you have me confused with someone who is far less awesome.

  7. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by powdork View Post
    i'm sure things would be different with a new p & s, but i'm working on a TR now where i'm using pictures from my old p & s, and the new canon in mostly sports/action mode, and the results aren't even remotely close.
    the main problem i'm currently having is the live view mode, which is what i'm trying to use to gauge some manual efforts. i can't really see the difference between these when shooting. not sure why. wondering if it's the goggles are wiping out some of the blues from the lcd screen.
    Come on man, you have the tools to fix every one of these problems within the camera extremely easily. That's what slr designs are for. Learn them and when you do you'll have the ability to manipulate photos to look a million times better than your point and shoot.

    It's like you just watched a chef's program, went the grocery store and chucked your bags against the wall when you walked in the door and are screaming 'where's my creme brulee' dammit!!!!!??????"
    Besides the comet that killed the dinosaurs nothing has destroyed a species faster than entitled white people.-ajp

  8. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by kidwoo View Post
    It's like you just watched a chef's program, went the grocery store and chucked your bags against the wall when you walked in the door and are screaming 'where's my creme brulee' dammit!!!!!??????"
    Best comment ever.
    I think you have me confused with someone who is far less awesome.

  9. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by kidwoo View Post
    It's like you just watched a chef's program, went the grocery store and chucked your bags against the wall when you walked in the door and are screaming 'where's my creme brulee' dammit!!!!!??????"


    it's more like i skipped the chef program, bought some lumber, nailed it together and said, "Damn, this tastes like shit!". So I gave up and went and got a really good frozen pizza.

    i'm gonna learn it, but i definitely need to get some basic photography knowledge first so i know things like what f/29 means and why it's bad.

    and i'll need to unlearn some p&s skills. used to be i would simply adjust the white balance until the sky looked correct, and most times other stuff would be ok too. i'll have to retrain my eye.

    keep in mind however














    i'm gonna rip the shit out of the next MPC!!!

  10. #35
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    Generally speaking, daytime shots should be at a WB of 5200 or higher. Night time is about 4k or lower. Now I'm not going to tell you what those numbers represent because the manual that comes with your camera does and I want you to fucking read it.

    Seriously though, all the terminology, explanation of settings and best use scenarios are covered in the thing. Plus these cameras come with some on board tools to either help you make those settings or just put individual ones on automatic. But full auto is not why you bought this camera. All those pics and videos you saw that made you want this camera were done by people who understand the device.
    Besides the comet that killed the dinosaurs nothing has destroyed a species faster than entitled white people.-ajp

  11. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by kidwoo View Post
    Generally speaking, daytime shots should be at a WB of 5200 or higher. Night time is about 4k or lower. Now I'm not going to tell you what those numbers represent because the manual that comes with your camera does and I want you to fucking read it.

    Seriously though, all the terminology, explanation of settings and best use scenarios are covered in the thing. Plus these cameras come with some on board tools to either help you make those settings or just put individual ones on automatic. But full auto is not why you bought this camera. All those pics and videos you saw that made you want this camera were done by people who understand the device.
    That's what i think i'm looking for. I'd like to have it maybe set up so I could have some presets for certain conditions (cloudy, bluebird, backlit, artsy, action). No matter how much I learn, I don't see myself taking 5 minutes to get a shot dialed in the way a professional photog would.

  12. #37
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    I think the droid you're looking for is called "Tv".
    Besides the comet that killed the dinosaurs nothing has destroyed a species faster than entitled white people.-ajp

  13. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by powdork View Post
    That's what i think i'm looking for. I'd like to have it maybe set up so I could have some presets for certain conditions (cloudy, bluebird, backlit, artsy, action). No matter how much I learn, I don't see myself taking 5 minutes to get a shot dialed in the way a professional photog would.
    It takes a few seconds to dial in ISO, aperture and shutter speed. And if you read and understand why you should adjust what, for what conditions, it becomes second nature. Keep shooting and practice, but read so you understand why your camera is doing what it is doing in these semi-auto modes and you'll be able to shoot in manual in no time. And then you will be able to manipulate your documentation of what you see, instead of just doing it. Like with DOF, or intentional motion blur, etc.
    I think you have me confused with someone who is far less awesome.

  14. #39
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    5 minutes to choose settings??? lol

  15. #40
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    Well, when you don't rtfm....

  16. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by kidwoo View Post
    I think the droid you're looking for is called "Tv".



    Quote Originally Posted by deciblast View Post
    5 minutes to choose settings??? lol
    i do have a friend who is like that. of course, he's like that with everything, not just taking pictures. basically, i meant i'm not going to break out a white card. i'm not gonna change lenses. i'm not gonna set up remote flashes, etc.

  17. #42
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    Did you take that?

    In Tv mode?


    I am so proud of you!!!
    Besides the comet that killed the dinosaurs nothing has destroyed a species faster than entitled white people.-ajp

  18. #43
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    fuck. just buy the fucking Red Lantern guide. It's for electronic gizmo morons. I don't know why I'm surprised. I get the stupidest questions out of the GoPro review and it has only TWO buttons. No wonder there are so many Dummies guides out there.

  19. #44
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    Hey that reminds me, I want to use a pov cam to bake in a lasagna......really make you feel like you're there.

    Is the contour or gopro better for casserole dishes?
    Besides the comet that killed the dinosaurs nothing has destroyed a species faster than entitled white people.-ajp

  20. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by kidwoo View Post
    Hey that reminds me, I want to use a pov cam to bake in a lasagna......really make you feel like you're there.

    Is the contour or gopro better for casserole dishes?
    You joke but you have no idea what kind of stupid questions i get asked about such simple electronic devices. Truly the average consumer is a unadulterated drooling moron. The best was the Engadget reviewer of one of the POV cams who couldn't figure out how to turn it on and off.

  21. #46
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    Well uh.......there are only like 8 people that even look that this forum.


    Seems pretty safe you know? As a future camera reviewer I feel I'm in the right demanding that you prepare me for the challenges that lie ahead in a professional capacity.
    Besides the comet that killed the dinosaurs nothing has destroyed a species faster than entitled white people.-ajp

  22. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by kidwoo View Post
    Hey that reminds me, I want to use a pov cam to bake in a lasagna......really make you feel like you're there.

    Is the contour or gopro better for casserole dishes?
    because of the different profiles of the cameras, it really depends on the depth of your lasagna (throughout the cooking process) and the look you want to capture. I like the Gopro because I make a deep lasagna and I want the half under/half out look for my lasagna edits. The GoPro is just the right height. Also, according to the manual it can withstand temperatures up to 30 degrees higher than the contour, which is important especially when baking at altitude.

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