Review: Binding Freedom Inserts - The Swiss Cheese Experiment

[halliday]

Once you start the screw how many turns do you get before it's tight? Maybe figure out how deep the top of the insert is and get a screw that is a little longer so you have enough threads engaged. If you need a longer screw or two let me know I have a bunch of 16s and 20s.

[bodywhomper]

Once you start the screw how many turns do you get before it's tight? Maybe figure out how deep the top of the insert is and get a screw that is a little longer so you have enough threads engaged. If you need a longer screw or two let me know I have a bunch of 16s and 20s.

Thanks for the helpful suggestion and offer!

I get 4.5 rotations to being tight. I threw in some vibratite and am going to ski them tomorrow with my kiddo.

An interesting twist to address soon, that insert dimpled the ski base. So it’s definitely in too deep and core material is pushing into the base. It’s going to take a little digging in the top sheet to get to the insert in order to extract it.

To repair/fix, would it be best to drill and insert the wider QK repair insert or fill the hole of the ski with machinable/tap-able epoxy, then redrill/tap in that epoxy for regular diameter inserts?

[halliday]

maybe a helicoil and some epoxy. Im sure that suggestion has been made before. Or maybe a new pair of skis?

[DigSki]

Thanks for the helpful suggestion and offer!

I get 4.5 rotations to being tight. I threw in some vibratite and am going to ski them tomorrow with my kiddo.

An interesting twist to address soon, that insert dimpled the ski base. So it’s definitely in too deep and core material is pushing into the base. It’s going to take a little digging in the top sheet to get to the insert in order to extract it.

To repair/fix, would it be best to drill and insert the wider QK repair insert or fill the hole of the ski with machinable/tap-able epoxy, then redrill/tap in that epoxy for regular diameter inserts?

Or use a slightly longer screw and call it a day, maybe grind the base of the dimple is bad.

[Va Ki Bo]

It’s going to take a little digging in the top sheet to get to the insert in order to extract it.

1. Using soldering iron heat that insert to destruct epoxy (temperature ~300-400C needed, so I just leave hot soldering iron tip in the insert for 2 min). Let it cool.
2. Use long M5 binding screw all the way down to the bottom of the insert and then try to overtighten it just a touch - to brake loose that epoxy bond and to be sure that the insert is spinning free now. If not - repeat step#1 and heat more. Dot mark with a sharpie on the insert makes it easier to observe its spinning.
3. Unscrew that screw-insert from the ski, slowly and steadily. Threadlocker may help to keep the screw-insert grip tight.
(And yes: slotted BF inserts are much easier here so you can skip step#3 and use flathead screwdriver instead.)
4. If the insert's thread is very tight at some point and it's impossible to unscrew it using M5 binding crew - as a last resort use good long set epoxy on the screw-insert interface, let it set (yes, it's long set), unscrew. For extracted screw-insert pair being epoxied: heat it, disassemble using pliers, clean it, reuse it.

That way as a result you will have neat topsheet as well as clean reusable tapped hole in the ski for a new correct insert installation.
Just fix that base-dimple back flat beforehand via pushign/rollilng with hard polished metallic surface like large bearing ball, table spoon, etc.

Also be sure that the tapped hole is deep enough for the inserts you use, as a shallow hole may also lead to dimpled ski base. I've found that in a hard way, that QK drill bit is too short for BF inserts.

One can ask about old (burnt) epoxy to new epoxy adhesion quality but IMHO its on par with raw wood core material surface adhesion.

[Blaster]

Can someone give this jong the lowdown on best practices when re-drilling plugged holes?


Moving from the empty holes (red arrows) to remounting in either the middle grey plugs or black plugs. I could quiver kill or bf them but am inclined to avoid inserts to not eat up too much of the space between existing holes. Or is that not really an issue here?

If I’m pulling plugs does it make sense to just pull them all and replace with something burlier like a hardwood pin and g flex?

Thanks in advance

[halliday]

You have tons of room to work with. Be careful drilling out the plugs. Im not a fan of using a drill press but it might be a good idea for plugs.

[PeachesNCream]

I would pull the plugs using a drywall screw. Then try and find the old threads using a tap or screw. Fiberglass and slow set epoxy for any spinners

You do have plenty of room for inserts but if it were me I’d use the above method and reuse the holes


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[skis_the_trees]

Can someone give this jong the lowdown on best practices when re-drilling plugged holes?
Moving from the empty holes (red arrows) to remounting in either the middle grey plugs or black plugs. I could quiver kill or bf them but am inclined to avoid inserts to not eat up too much of the space between existing holes. Or is that not really an issue here?
If I’m pulling plugs does it make sense to just pull them all and replace with something burlier like a hardwood pin and g flex?
Thanks in advance

I would keep it simple and just plug the open holes and only redrill the holes you want to use. I typically drill them out with a standard 3.5mm drill; most of the time the plug starts spinning and pops out before you finish drilling. You can prick punch a starting point if needed to stay concentric on the plug. I don't typically re-tap but just restart the screws carefully to try and pick up on existing threads that might be there still. (a lot of plugs seem to be pressed in without glue and the threads are there from the last mount, conversely I always epoxy in my binding plugs and it fills any threads or voids even if the plug is removed). I know lots of mags on TGR swear by the hardwood plugs but I have never had a problem on a modern ski with plastic plugs and the plastic plugs are just so much quicker and easier if you are doing a lot of remounts, ergo I would definitely not redo your plugged holes!