Ski RV's, who's sleeping in parking lots?

[stealurface831]

anyone want a 20% code for SMRTTent?

[jacob_dbu]

ok , so this is off that seattle van cL listing... looks like a heat source. can anyone beta me up on how it works, and all the particulars...looks really interesting... any parts missing from pics? is this a brand? or.......

Webasto diesel heater. The thing on the back is a diesel tank. The heater needs an input hose (air), output hose (hotter air), and an exhaust. Obvious which ones should point where. Some people mount the heater/tank in their car instead of underneath. That was actually one of my qualms, install didn't look very tidy, though perhaps bomber.

[Micol]

^thanks that helps. does it appear that shelf for the little furnace ( i guess) is built outside the living compartment? where is that, looks covered

[nickbokhoven]

^thanks that helps. does it appear that shelf for the little furnace ( i guess) is built outside the living compartment? where is that, looks covered

Make sure it is outside the living area in that set up. If it is inside the van, I would walk away. The Webasto and Espar heaters can be mounted either inside or outside. If inside, the heater should be tight to the floor. Then the exhaust port, which is ~1 1/2” long pokes out of the vehicle and the hose clamp and exhaust flex hose are outside. There is a gasket between the heater and floor. This prevents any carbon monoxide from filling your cab and ultimately killing you.


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[Micol]

^ thanks, ftr i’m not poaching van posted, but am looking to potentially tweak a vehicles i alreeeady own

[Huskier]

^ thanks, ftr i’m not poaching van posted, but am looking to potentially tweak a vehicles i alreeeady own

An additional consideration is making sure your exhaust vents outside the footprint of the vehicle as opposed to directly under it. Just in case your install isn't right or there are other portals of entry along the floor boards

[jacob_dbu]

Yes it’s outside but has foam zip tied underneath to offer some protection

[El Chupacabra]

RV electrical geniuses: what is the advantage of using a DC-DC charger instead of a 12V plug to camper?

I'm going to need to wire up a connection between a pickup and a slide in camper. In the old truck, I just added a solenoid circuit with thicker gauge wiring, plugged into the camper's 7-pin socket. I'd like to charge the camper house batteries off the truck electrical while driving.

I've seen some mention of DC-DC chargers being more efficient, but I don't understand it.

[DanoT]

I have only recently gone to a DC to DC charger. Mine acts as a solar controller and accepts power from either my solar panel or alternator or both at the same time, but more importantly it acts as a multi stage smart battery charger, optimizing the available power.

[El Chupacabra]

So does a DC-DC charger get installed in place of an RV converter? (the unit that converts 110AC to 12V DC to allow use of shore power, and also functions as a battery charger for the house batteries)

[DanoT]

I left the factory wiring with solenoid battery separator in place.
I added 6 gauge wire from truck battery, with 30amp fuse and manual separator switch, to DC to DC charger. Also wire from 100watt solar panel to DC-DC charger. Then wire from DC to DC charger to camper batteries.
disclaimer: I am very far from an expert on this stuff.

Also when plugged in to shore power or my Honda generator I don't rely on the built in battery charger in the RV's converter; Instead I hook up and plug in a 110AC smart battery charger.

[El Chupacabra]

At home, between trips, I'll recharge the camper batteries using a standalone smart charger. But for the day before a trip, I'll just plug in the camper to shore power and use 110V to cool the fridge and top off the batteries.

The new truck will have dedicated upfitter switches, and I could use one for a DC charger circuit. Just pondering possibilities.

[jacob_dbu]

RV electrical geniuses: what is the advantage of using a DC-DC charger instead of a 12V plug to camper?

I'm going to need to wire up a connection between a pickup and a slide in camper. In the old truck, I just added a solenoid circuit with thicker gauge wiring, plugged into the camper's 7-pin socket. I'd like to charge the camper house batteries off the truck electrical while driving.

I've seen some mention of DC-DC chargers being more efficient, but I don't understand it.

What is your exact setup? One thing a DC-DC voltage converter is voltage regulation. When your car is running the battery is up at 14.4V. When off it’s at 13.2V. The amount of load also changes the voltage out of the alternator.

Going through a converter stabilizes the voltage at the output. Do these converters adjust voltage level? It doesn’t sound like it from your description.I

The other thing people are talking about is smart current regulation. Which charges your batteries efficiently. Protects them from overdischarging and more. If you have multiple lithium batteries this is essential to maintain those batteries in good condition. Lead-acid charging is not as advanced. These are called BMS systems. No downside if you can afford it, but not necessary for only lead acid batteries.

[Hopeless Sinner]

RV electrical geniuses: what is the advantage of using a DC-DC charger instead of a 12V plug to camper?

I'm going to need to wire up a connection between a pickup and a slide in camper. In the old truck, I just added a solenoid circuit with thicker gauge wiring, plugged into the camper's 7-pin socket. I'd like to charge the camper house batteries off the truck electrical while driving.

I've seen some mention of DC-DC chargers being more efficient, but I don't understand it.

Not an electrical genius but have done a little camping and have been studying TC and their systems for over a year now. The DC-DC charger is a multi-stage smart charger (batteries need high amps at first and then drop down amps in stages until fully recharged), and it ups the amperage and smooths the output of the alternator (quicker recharges) which lead to longer battery life while protecting the alternator. Some like Dano's incorporate a solar controller. If you want to run your 12v frig while driving, or have no solar, face cloudy conditions, or shaded campsites, it's a must. If you have a propane frig and/or plan on carrying a generator it's not essential, but it's still clearly the best option.

Check out the link for all the details.

https://vanconverts.com/isolators-dc...lternator-van/

[El Chupacabra]

My camper is standard RV 3-way fridge (we run it on propane unless plugged in to shore power), two 6-volt lead acid golf cart batteries, no solar, no generator, standard RV converter.

Sounds like we don't need to go to a DC charger setup. I'll keep reading up on it.

[DanoT]

My camper is standard RV 3-way fridge (we run it on propane unless plugged in to shore power), two 6-volt lead acid golf cart batteries, no solar, no generator, standard RV converter.

Sounds like we don't need to go to a DC charger setup. I'll keep reading up on it.

Yeah, if you are just running a propane fridge and not a propane heater with a power sucking fan, then your power needs are so minimal that it is hard to justify the cost of a DC-DC charger.

[El Chupacabra]

Yeah, if you are just running a propane fridge and not a propane heater with a power sucking fan, then your power needs are so minimal that it is hard to justify the cost of a DC-DC charger.

Forgot to mention the heater - camper does have a typical RV propane heater with noisy fan. But we very rarely use it.

The DC chargers don't really cost that much, unless what I'm looking at here isn't the correct thing. But it may just be adding complexity that we don't need.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...KIKX0DER&psc=1

[Micol]

An additional consideration is making sure your exhaust vents outside the footprint of the vehicle as opposed to directly under it. Just in case your install isn't right or there are other portals of entry along the floor boards

copy that, thanks

[wolfelot]

This is a pic of my Atwood camper furnace vent on a 2000 Coleman Santa Fe. The stock furnace works perfectly.

Is there a way to SAFELY extend this vent about 12 inches to the exterior of a 2x6 wall to the outside so exhaust doesn’t fill the garage? I’d have a CO monitor in the garage and another in the camper. If it can be done safely how would you?

[apex dave]

This is a pic of my Atwood camper furnace vent on a 2000 Coleman Santa Fe. The stock furnace works perfectly.

Is there a way to SAFELY extend this vent about 12 inches to the exterior of a 2x6 wall to the outside so exhaust doesn’t fill the garage? I’d have a CO monitor in the garage and another in the camper. If it can be done safely how would you?

Anytime you have to think 'I'll be OK because I have a CO monitor' it's probably a bad idea.

[Hopeless Sinner]

^^ If you're inside the garage why not use a portable electric heater?

[Hopeless Sinner]

Forgot to mention the heater - camper does have a typical RV propane heater with noisy fan. But we very rarely use it.

The DC chargers don't really cost that much, unless what I'm looking at here isn't the correct thing. But it may just be adding complexity that we don't need.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...KIKX0DER&psc=1

From the amazon q and a:

"I just talked to tech support at Renogy about this. For alternators of less than 160 amps use the 20 amp charger, up to 180 amp alternator use the 40 amp, and for 200 amp alternators and above the 60 amp alternator can be used. My alternator is 220 amps, but I am going to take the safe route and use the 40 amp charger. "

[wolfelot]

Thanks guys. Just going to use electric heating. The chance of issues isn’t worth it.

[Huskier]

Thanks guys. Just going to use electric heating. The chance of issues isn’t worth it.

didn't realize this was an -actual- garage not a gear garage I'm a camper. Definitely go electric if you're on 120V

[Vt-Freeheel]

I am just confused as to why you are camping in your garage.