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  1. #7126
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Calgary
    Posts
    312
    Sportin wood for special wood?

  2. #7127
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    LV-426
    Posts
    21,186
    Quote Originally Posted by shirk View Post
    No way man. That's gotta be #vanlife specific wood, no regular old stuff from the lumber store will do. It's gotta be #vanlife specific and sold via an Instagram only account in small lot batches. Every single piece of marketing for this unique wood will involve some chick in her bikini looking longingly into the distance out the opened van doors. This has got to be special wood.
    Mourning wood
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  3. #7128
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    your vacation
    Posts
    4,751
    Quote Originally Posted by shirk View Post
    No way man. That's gotta be #vanlife specific wood, no regular old stuff from the lumber store will do. It's gotta be #vanlife specific and sold via an Instagram only account in small lot batches. Every single piece of marketing for this unique wood will involve some chick in her bikini looking longingly into the distance out the opened van doors. This has got to be special wood.
    sounds about right never see any short chubby chicks in all the #van life online I learn so much every day it's all babes in yoga pants and man buns

  4. #7129
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    1,226
    Quote Originally Posted by Foggy_Goggles View Post
    Looks like regular 5" pine t&g to me. You can get that anywhere.
    Quality of said product varies significantly. Big box lots get wacky & wavy, super annoying to work with.

  5. #7130
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Bellevue
    Posts
    7,449
    Quote Originally Posted by Huskydoc View Post
    Quality of said product varies significantly. Big box lots get wacky & wavy, super annoying to work with.
    Have you tried Dunn instead of home depot?

  6. #7131
    Join Date
    Nov 2002
    Posts
    8,837
    Quote Originally Posted by Huskydoc View Post
    Quality of said product varies significantly. Big box lots get wacky & wavy, super annoying to work with.
    So call your local mill or specialty lumber supplier and have them run it for you from a higher grade? Or just by extra and pick through it. I cull about 20% on most T&G ceilings.

  7. #7132
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    1,226
    Quote Originally Posted by abraham View Post
    Have you tried Dunn instead of home depot?
    I bought about 200 LF of 5' x 6" cedar pickets from them. 5-10% reject rate not too bad mainly on color. Got a little warped but probably because I let them sit out a little too long before use. Thinking about going with them again but part of the problem is you don't get to inspect the product before it's delivered. I tried Crosscut in SoDo but all their stuff is specialty. I might end up special ordering from Mr. Plywood in PDX.

    Here's a build question: What are people using to finish their butcherblock countertops? I hear certain stains/varnish aren't food grade/safe?

  8. #7133
    Join Date
    Nov 2002
    Posts
    8,837
    Here's a build question: What are people using to finish their butcherblock countertops? I hear certain stains/varnish aren't food grade/safe?
    I've had good luck with Howards. I don't think you want any stain or finish unless you are going for the epoxy bartop look.

  9. #7134
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    North Vancouver
    Posts
    6,459
    Quote Originally Posted by Huskydoc View Post
    Here's a build question: What are people using to finish their butcherblock countertops? I hear certain stains/varnish aren't food grade/safe?
    A few years back I did a bunch of research on this for the butcher block countertop in our rental. We went with Waterlox, durable and food safe. It is a more durable finish than the usual oil and wax type finish. Creates a polymerization in the finish that handles moisture very well.

  10. #7135
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Tahoe-ish
    Posts
    3,152
    We have had a wood (edges up, which most people mis-label as butcher block, which is end-grain up and rarely/never used for counters /rant) counter in our home kitchen for about 8 years now. We use it as a cutting board and do a lot of cooking, and I've sanded it down once in that time.

    Every few months I clean it aggressively with soap & water, then rub a bunch of canola oil into it after it dries. I don't see any reason to change this practice, as it's been working well.

    If you have wood countertops that aren't also cutting surfaces, something else might be better.

    Sent from my SM-P610 using TGR Forums mobile app
    Last edited by climberevan; 12-25-2020 at 10:47 AM.
    ride bikes, climb, ski, travel, cook, work to fund former, repeat.

  11. #7136
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    1,887
    Quote Originally Posted by Huskydoc View Post
    I bought about 200 LF of 5' x 6" cedar pickets from them. 5-10% reject rate not too bad mainly on color. Got a little warped but probably because I let them sit out a little too long before use. Thinking about going with them again but part of the problem is you don't get to inspect the product before it's delivered. I tried Crosscut in SoDo but all their stuff is specialty. I might end up special ordering from Mr. Plywood in PDX.

    Here's a build question: What are people using to finish their butcherblock countertops? I hear certain stains/varnish aren't food grade/safe?
    Dutch oil. Dark walnut I think.

  12. #7137
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Meiss Meadows
    Posts
    2,038

    Ski RV's, who's sleeping in parking lots?

    I like Waterlox.
    Get the can of nitrogen to clear the can of O2 before closing the lid.
    And squeeze/squash the can to minimize empty space.

    But the cutting board gets pure mineral oil.

  13. #7138
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    Beautiful BC
    Posts
    2,971
    Quote Originally Posted by Huskydoc View Post
    Here's a build question: What are people using to finish their butcherblock countertops? I hear certain stains/varnish aren't food grade/safe?
    I use mineral oil on all my wooden cutting boards. There is a "food grade" version available which costs more but is FDA approved. Once the oil soaks in it isn't greasy at all.

    What kind of oils are safe on cutting boards?
    If you have a problem & think that someone else is going to solve it for you then you have two problems.

  14. #7139
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    1,226
    Quote Originally Posted by powdrhound View Post
    I like Waterlox.
    Get the can of nitrogen to clear the can of O2 before closing the lid.
    And squeeze/squash the can to minimize empty space.

    But the cutting board gets pure mineral oil.
    Hearing waterlox votes from other sources too. What is this nitrogen for? Preservation? Does it affect the finish?

  15. #7140
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    1,961

    Ski RV's, who's sleeping in parking lots?

    Quote Originally Posted by Huskydoc View Post
    Where do you source the wood? Looks great
    Just 1/4”x 3.5” T&G cedar from Home Depot. I wish I could afford the special #vanlife wood but again...much closer to the dirtbag vanlife than the trust fund vanlife I went 1/4” instead of the cheaper 1” pine to save interior space and hope that the soft thin cedar would match the curve of the walls better. Here’s the framing underneath (1/4” birch ply ripped to about 3” wide)

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I splurged on the wool insulation which was blessed by a pagan princess and then sprinkled with holy patchouli oil, but I wanted the sound deadening properties of batt insulation and didn’t want to spend extra for Thinsulate

    And I know we have a power tool thread but I’m supremely impressed by the Dewalt 12v Xtreme drill and impact. Super light and portable but tons of power.
    Last edited by Falcon3; 12-25-2020 at 12:47 PM.

  16. #7141
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Posts
    278
    I don't see a vapour barrier. Cold steel outside walls will cause condensation inside the wall and will wet the batten insulation like a wet powder jacket. Not an issue with spray foam and not such a big deal with rigid styrofoam but no bueno with batten insulation. Use vapour barrier plastic stuck on with acoustic sealant between the wood and insulation. Seal thoroughly

  17. #7142
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    1,226
    Quote Originally Posted by apex dave View Post
    I don't see a vapour barrier. Cold steel outside walls will cause condensation inside the wall and will wet the batten insulation like a wet powder jacket. Not an issue with spray foam and not such a big deal with rigid styrofoam but no bueno with batten insulation. Use vapour barrier plastic stuck on with acoustic sealant between the wood and insulation. Seal thoroughly
    Isnt this how you get sick building syndrome in your van? You effectively have a VB in the sheet metal and installing a dedicated one on top of the insulation effectively traps the moisture that gets in there...

  18. #7143
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    1,961

    Ski RV's, who's sleeping in parking lots?

    Thanks for the input, but from what I’ve read and the suggestions of the insulation manufacturer, there’s no way to totally manage moisture, and if you put a barrier on the inside, moisture is liable to get stuck between the outer vapor barrier (vehicle skin) and the inner barrier.

    I’d rather have it open so any moisture can easily evaporate into the inner air and I’m managing airflow and moisture inside with a power vent and a Webasto air heater

    This is actually another reason I went with wool insulation. It manages moisture way better than fiberglass or Thinsulate just like wearing a merino base layer vs poly.

  19. #7144
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    Beautiful BC
    Posts
    2,971
    Yes, you need a vapour barrier on the warm side (i.e. inside), not the outside. The sheet metal is a vapour barrier anyway. You're trying to stop condensation as the temperature falls from the warm inside surface to the cold outside surface. Modern vapour barriers (for houses) slow the movement of moisture; they are not impermeable. There was a time when moisture impermeable plastic sheeting was used but that turned out to be a dumb idea and a lot of rot happened. If you're putting sheet paneling on the inside then the paneling may act as a vapour barrier anyway. Just make sure any holes through the paneling are airtight.

    All about vapour barriers
    If you have a problem & think that someone else is going to solve it for you then you have two problems.

  20. #7145
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Meiss Meadows
    Posts
    2,038
    Quote Originally Posted by Huskydoc View Post
    Hearing waterlox votes from other sources too. What is this nitrogen for? Preservation? Does it affect the finish?
    Waterlox is an oxygen cure. Leaving O2 in the can will make it start curing, making it a gel.

  21. #7146
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Posts
    2,698
    Quote Originally Posted by Huskydoc View Post
    I bought about 200 LF of 5' x 6" cedar pickets from them. 5-10% reject rate not too bad mainly on color. Got a little warped but probably because I let them sit out a little too long before use. Thinking about going with them again but part of the problem is you don't get to inspect the product before it's delivered. I tried Crosscut in SoDo but all their stuff is specialty. I might end up special ordering from Mr. Plywood in PDX.

    Here's a build question: What are people using to finish their butcherblock countertops? I hear certain stains/varnish aren't food grade/safe?
    Shellac

    Sent from my I3123 using Tapatalk

  22. #7147
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Montrose, CO
    Posts
    825

    Scout Yoho Camper...?

    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	355395Anyone out there throw down recently for a Scout truck camper?

    My wife and I are considering selling our 19G-class c to get a Scout Yoho model to put on our 1st gen Tundra. They look super well thought out and are the lightest hard-side truck camper out there...Looking for feedback- likes/dislikes...
    We saw one on a newer Tacoma the other day while we were coming down from Red Mountain Pass-looked sweet- guy was probably on his way to ski Silverton.


    Photo is a stock pic from their website.

  23. #7148
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    5,013
    My buddy did.

    He is tweaking a few things. Steps off the back. He didn't do the roof tent. He did the fireplace. Dometic fridge he loves. The batwing awning he hates because it isn't long enough to hit the ground. It needs more water storage.

  24. #7149
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    in the trench
    Posts
    15,727
    I want one. I keep looking at them. Decent price. I have to message them to see who is carrying them locally. Might be cheaper in 'berta when travel eases between provinces. Fingers crossed for february. Interested to hear of others experiences with athe scout. I think its the "olympique" thats suggested for my short bed 08 tundra?

    Sent from my SM-G950W using TGR Forums mobile app

  25. #7150
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    SLC, Utah
    Posts
    4,315
    what do you mags think about something like this?

    https://www.mountainproject.com/foru...000-miles-6500

    i started looking into those tigers, seems like a decent deal. basically a chevy astrovan converted into a camper.

    curious what the collective wisdom on those is

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