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  1. #101
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
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    Hanging with my son in the mornings. Might make a trip east to watch some surf tomorrow. I'm headed north in the evenings. As far as the wind will let me get toward San Mateo. Away from the zoo.

    West Cliff had some action. You know the south is sizable when this spot starts breaking.


    And decent when five guys are surfing it.


    The crowds were over at the Lane. Although many went unridden.


    New camera is in the mail. Yay.
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  2. #102
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
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    Zion
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    I managed to luck into a few fun lefts for lunchtime today. Sun is shining, wind is pretty light and waves were rolling through, not much else to ask for.

    Photo from the wedge today posted on surfline


  3. #103
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    SFCA
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    1,102
    What's that kayak made of, two pieces of plastic, now?
    "Yo!! Brentley! Ya wanna get faded before work?"

  4. #104
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    2,259
    Quote Originally Posted by BS720 View Post
    What's that kayak made of, two pieces of plastic, now?
    That looks like a bad place.

    I surfed Trestles last night. Cottons was double overhead+, maybe the biggest I have ever seen it. The guys on waves looked like ants. Upper Trestles was the same, just huge. I saw a couple of sets shut down the whole point, and it takes a big swell to do that. I surfed the barbedwires area, which was a bit mellower. Some very good lefts coming in, but you had to wait. The big sets there were DOH, but less power, so a bit less scary. I did get caught by one while paddling back out from a left, and it rinsed me pretty well.

    My buddies who paddled out at the point at uppers said they saw a set or two that pushed triple overhead. I did not see that, so I won't claim it, but these guys have surfed extensively in Hawaii, so I would give them the benefit of the doubt. Trestles seems to be bearing the brunt of the energy from this one.

    I might go to Chruches today. I want a place that is a big shadowed, because this swell is almost too big for Uppers/Cottons, which is saying something.

    It looks like it should pump all weekend. I am actually looking forward to Cottons once it drops a bit. Right now it's almost too big there. I Saw the biggest Cottons sets I have ever seen yesterday.
    "Have you ever seen a monk get wildly fucked by a bunch of teenage girls?" "No" "Then forget the monastery."


    "You ever hear of a little show called branded? Arthur Digby Sellers wrote 156 episodes. Not exactly a lightweight." Walter Sobcheck.

    "I didn't have a grandfather on the board of some fancy college. Key word being was. Did he touch the Filipino exchange student? Did he not touch the Filipino exchange student? I don't know Brooke, I wasn't there."

  5. #105
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    14
    Got good Pleasure Point this morning. You know it's good when there aren't any longboards in the water over there. I saw one guy with a longboard get to the water, turn around and leave. Caught a few good ones in front of Jacks house. Got a looong one early in a set and by the time I got back out I realized that I was just about at the Hook. It was so foggy I had no idea how far I went. Anyhow, another good wave came through so I jumped on it and stayed at the Hook for a few more good sized ones and headed to "work". Gotta love these big summer souths.

  6. #106
    Join Date
    Nov 2002
    Location
    The Continental Divide
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    7,288
    Ha, I watched you I bet. I watched from first light until around 2 pm on and off. Got a ton of pics. Hell maybe got you riding. Went back and forth between windnsea rockview sewers pleasure point, and pleasure point was just smooth and long waves. Wish I could've done it. Everyone there could surf it seemed, although some people just shot down the line straight without working the face of the wave at all, which seems a shame with such pretty waves. Shrug, looked fun.

    Long lasting smooth waves, like 10 second rides on the outer break and 15 on the inner. Look like a lot of fun. It got smaller over the day I think, people were saying 12', I don't know if it was quite that but I don't have a great eye.

    Last night the hook looked super and people were riding it hard. Today it looked like a bunch of gapers.

    Great vibe, everyone happy and friendly. Pleasure point is so nice. I had so much fun.

    Quote Originally Posted by MDJ View Post
    Got good Pleasure Point this morning. You know it's good when there aren't any longboards in the water over there. I saw one guy with a longboard get to the water, turn around and leave. Caught a few good ones in front of Jacks house. Got a looong one early in a set and by the time I got back out I realized that I was just about at the Hook. It was so foggy I had no idea how far I went. Anyhow, another good wave came through so I jumped on it and stayed at the Hook for a few more good sized ones and headed to "work". Gotta love these big summer souths.
    Live each season as it passes; breathe the air, drink the drink, taste the fruit, and resign yourself to the influences of each.
    Henry David Thoreau

  7. #107
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
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    Interesting swell. Over riding many of the usual spots. I've heard things like:

    Too long a period, too much west, too big for.... And, I don't know where to go when we gets these big souths, 'cause the happen so rarely.

    Town has been good. A few select spots, at the right times have been insane up north. But a many frustrating moments, as the swell had its way it the more open water spots. Got to my fav this morning, and it had a little sw bumpple on it. Went out anyway, 'cause I did not notice it when I watched in the dark. The bump mellowed, and I got a hand full of very fun waves. No one out. At least a half hour of being skunked. And the best wave I have had since January. If was a very very good long throaty thing. Now I am off to the mountains to enjoy some sun and wild flowers.

    The lineups are going to be thick the next few days. Be wise and be kind.

  8. #108
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Beach
    Posts
    239
    Thought we'd beat the crowd at Bird Rock this morning and get at least get 30 minutes of surf before everyone showed up. Not. Paddled out in the dark and still had 4-6 guys out within 5 minutes. 20 minutes later at grey light there were 10-15 more including a couple of long boards. Talked with some neighbors, caught a couple and came back in. Way too crowded.

  9. #109
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    In Full Compliance
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    1,315
    Stumbled into this lineup on my travels. 2 September: Indian Summer

    Last edited by boltonoutlaw; 09-29-2011 at 04:54 PM.

  10. #110
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Zion
    Posts
    1,747
    ^score

    ottime, that left in the photos looks really tasty!

  11. #111
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    At the beach
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    9,012
    Yep fun weekend. Still trying to get back into shape, so I am not down for any DOH stuff. Friday morning at PB Point was like a Disneyland ride with just these fun head high peelers off the point. Saturday, drove up to Delmar and didn't get out I was so bummed. Swell a tad smaller today, so Delmar was a cake walk and got some fun stuff a little overhead on the sets. I hope this hangs in there for Monday.
    Quote Originally Posted by leroy jenkins View Post
    I think you'd have an easier time understanding people if you remembered that 80% of them are fucking morons.
    That is why I like dogs, more than most people.

  12. #112
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
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    Everybody Knows This Is Nowhere
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    6,594
    Watch out everyone, I hear there are sharks out there.
    Putting the "core" in corporate, one turn at a time.

    Metalmücil 2010 - 2013 "Go Home" album is now a free download

    The Bonin Petrels

  13. #113
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    Jun 2007
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    Only in SoCal. They all left the central coast due to fog.

    Swell should hang in there through tomorrow at chest high or so. And then there will be some small NW later in the week. At least that is how it looks up here.

  14. #114
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    Oct 2003
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    Everybody Knows This Is Nowhere
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    http://gawker.com/5837235/bodyboardi...urce=pulsenews

    Bodysurfing is dangerous. If he had a Channel Islands board w/ razor sharp fins he could have fought back.
    Putting the "core" in corporate, one turn at a time.

    Metalmücil 2010 - 2013 "Go Home" album is now a free download

    The Bonin Petrels

  15. #115
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    Mar 2010
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    Quote Originally Posted by liv2ski View Post
    Swell a tad smaller today, so Delmar was a cake walk and got some fun stuff a little overhead on the sets. I hope this hangs in there for Monday.
    I surfed just down the beach from you today. still some fun ones! Thursday 15th St was putting out some fun sets. The sets were swinging wide. I managed to connect a few from the reef in front of the drain pipe to the inside sandbar. It was a glassy mid day surf, sun was shining, crowd was mellow, and the waves were cranking. Wish I could rewind to that session

  16. #116
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    Jun 2007
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    Heard that my favorite summer spot was cranking again this morning. And empty except for the reporter.

  17. #117
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
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    SFCA
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    Caught a boat at 0700 to manznillo. Sets were head plus, and we stayed out for three hours. Long enough for this gringo to get fried, despite liberal sunscreen apps. I'm happy to hear my Cali brethren are getting their's, too! TR to follow, and this should be one hell of a winter.
    "Yo!! Brentley! Ya wanna get faded before work?"

  18. #118
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    Jun 2007
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    SC had a little more south swell this past week. A good chance it is the last of the decent sized souths for the season. Nothing like the huge one we had, but still some decent size. The fog was thin, so I walked with my son and new toy down to the lane.

    Things were still pretty thick along west cliff on the way there.


    But once at the lane, the fog was already starting to break.


    This guy was the best one to shot. He was consistent. I also like how the wave/ his wake looks like a third arm.


    3 surfers. 3 different waves to approach the wave.


    Things are pretty small right now, but it looks like we have some NW brewing. I bet even SD gets a dose of winter by next Friday.
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  19. #119
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    Dec 2010
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    Beach
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    My kid got some today on his new board. $75 craigslist score. He was stoked. Big drop from his 8' foamer but he got up pretty quick.

    Great shots Ottime. Love the cutback photo.

  20. #120
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
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    Zion
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    Nice pic BR, he looks stoked! Hopefully he doesn't give me stink eye in 10 years when he is dominating the peak

  21. #121
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    7,179

    NH

    yesterdays thigh high went waist/head today with light onshores. hit same point as yesterdays log session, but with the shorty. just me at 1st, then joined by just one other for the duration. tomorrow should be wonderful as winds go offshore overnight with a 5ft@9/10 second period. long enough period for some power, but short enough to preserve the peaky bowl-e-ness.

    stoked for tomorrow is an understatement.

    nice pics and kid stoke above!

    rog

  22. #122
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    Jun 2007
    Location
    Cruzing
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    Some small NW has started to filter in up here, prepping us for later this week when the real stuff should show for a moment.

    Lots of folks out this afternoon fighting for a few small ones.


    Kelp and foam in between sets.


    Small, but crisp lips to hit.


    My favorite shot from my five minute session.
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  23. #123
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
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    SFCA
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    OT, props to you and your new camera. This thread improved vastly with your purchase. Love that last pic.
    "Yo!! Brentley! Ya wanna get faded before work?"

  24. #124
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    Mar 2010
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    Zion
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    Looks fun. I need surf

  25. #125
    Join Date
    Nov 2002
    Location
    The Continental Divide
    Posts
    7,288
    I'll check out Rockview tomorrow - hopefully it's overhead. Not gonna make it to the lane, although I did get over there last Friday. Tiny but at least I could see how it breaks. And the lighthouse museum, so cool.

    The pleasure point guy is out, traded up for a maui native. And he says he can ski. Tatoos. Excited to see him surf tomorrow.

    Quote Originally Posted by BS720 View Post
    OT, props to you and your new camera. This thread improved vastly with your purchase. Love that last pic.
    Second that.
    Last edited by SheRa; 09-21-2011 at 09:53 AM.
    Live each season as it passes; breathe the air, drink the drink, taste the fruit, and resign yourself to the influences of each.
    Henry David Thoreau

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