Anyone else get some today...?

[Ottime]

Tonight was fun. Sure, there were some plus sets, but really no need for the bigger boards unless you wanted to sit and wait for it. Otherwise, it was pretty consistent 8 foot faces. The bigger sets at Scotts were a bit more than double overhead, but not much. Kind of doubt the 22ft reported at Mav's on Surfline, but maybe there were a few out there. The better ones that lined up resulted in 100 yard plus paddle backs. So nice to feel the energy in the water again. Lots of positive folks on the cliffs and along the beach.

Can't get out tomorrow, but the entire week will stay above shoulder high. Basically, summer is finally done and surf season has begun.

[Superstar Punani]

Finally!

I've had 2 surfs since I got back from Indonesia 6 weeks ago. Woke up this morning and saw 6-8' bombs out my window so it was on. I bought a new Flashbomb wettie that I've been itching to try out.

Surprisingly easy paddle out, and only a half a dozen guys out where there would've been 20-30+ on a smaller day. Went thru my quiver and realized all my 6'6"s are back in the Mentawais stored for my next trip. Picked off some bomb sets, some lefts, some rights, long rides. Wettie is like a portable sauna suit.

Early sesh tomorrow.

[Ottime]

On the way to swim school the little guy and I stopped by the Lane for a viewing. She's got the sickness on her this morning. Still looks fun out there and well overhead.

[icelanticskier]

glad to see the left coast getting some goods.

nh this am was small with some texture. had nothing else to do all morning so i went out and caught some fun lil thigh high peelers. the lefts had plenty behind them for some full carve backside t2b'ers. thank goodness for lil shorty boards, they fit so dang well in lil wave faces.

such a gorgeous morning in general. 34 degrees this am here coast. so nice.

rog

[jtran10]

Went out to Terramar this morning. 4.5 ft high tide at 7:20 seemed to really slow things down and fatten it out. Had a nice left and a long, small right. Didn't experience anything in the 4/5 ft range that I was hoping for. Really long lulls too. Hope you other socal guys hit it better than I did.

[Ottime]

^^^These swells are still pretty small, in the over all winter scale. And once you get past Pt Conception, things tend to get pretty shadowed. I don't know anything about Terramar, but down there you can find some spots a few feet overhead at one spot and nearly flat at another. Kind of the same up here. This swell is still too small to even show at New Brighton, but when we start to get some bigger swells, that spot can reel off a 50 yrd barrel at head high. The Lane (height wise) looks like a thumping south is hitting and giving sets a few feet overhead. OTOH, the deepwater spots up the coast will offering taller, and much juicier waves. And this swell is generally westerly, which gets into town well.

Our next one, for this coming weekend, looks like it could be a few feet overhead up the coast (and OB), while the west side of town could be shoulder high and the eastside stomach high. Partly because it will be coming in smaller (say 8@17 vs 6@15), and because it will be from 15-20 degrees more north.

4.5' is not a super high tide. There has got to be a high tide break around you that handles that pretty well.

Anyway, drove by the Lane on the way home, and the bump is down a bit as the tide settles. We saw a chest high set rolling through Indicators. Have not seen that break since March.

[Ottime]

The Slot faces about 170 degrees so it gets the most of the summer swell. When it gets very good, it is a bit overhead and crisp. The NW tends to burger up and bypass, but occasionally one will get in there. 295 was about right to still give it shape. So, this wave has wrapped about 120 degrees to get in here.



I'll have a few more, but not much of quality. Low light and an adventurous 16 month old to tend to make for challenging conditions.

[Piggity]

^looks empty and fun. Tahquitz in April? I'll start doing my snow dance

Surf check on my lunch break. Not as good as advertised but still a few waves coming through. Little inconsistent, about 20 minutes between bigger sets. Lots of people

[supermodel159]

A lot of talk, not a lot of waves down here. O well, it was fun to check the buoys.

[Ottime]

Y'all need some series swell to get your points going. You all are so tucked in. But when you do get waves, they pretty much rip.

Was up the coast a bit this afternoon. My son wanted to charge the shore break. Lots of warble and confusion up there compared to yesterday and the swell is much smaller. Still some fun ones on the points just north of town. Head high plus I would call it. Hope the winds settle a bit tomorrow when I get back in the water.

[PowerWhore7]

Couple of shots from today @ Trestles, meh, shoulder to head high but the when the rights lined up they would go for about 100 yards.

[jtran10]

swung by some spots on the bikeride home. size most definitely up from this morning, but still just about waist high with some plus sets every long while. Really windy down here too, it seems.

Have my sights set on Grandview or Ponto next NW swell. See how the slight change in angle plays with the waves. Swami's and Cardiff seem like junkshows, but would like to surf Pipes soon as a goofy foot.

[Piggity]

Nice photos pw7, looks empty.

Jtran, north county does better on SW and gets somewhat shadowed on these steep NW swells. I think it's around 295 right now and that's steep for anything north of La Jolla, unless it's some serious ground swell that can wrap in there. Some Tropical swell tomorrow through later this week should give u some waves up there, probably more so Oside and north. Also a SW after that. For steep NW you should drive down south and the waves will be pulling in with out as much shadow from point conception and the islands. Reverse is true when places like Del Mar and Encinitas are shadowed from 180 Souths due to Point La Jolla but Oside will be going off while it's flat 10 miles south


Surf jumped up a lot between lunch surf check and the after work session. Surfed North peak at Blacks and sets were OH on the drop and then would reel across the sand bar producing some perfect looking shacks. One of those days where you mind surf it from the beach and then it's completely different in the water. Lot of water moving for the size and hard to be on the peak, the pack was constantly on the move to just stay in place. Lot of paddling for only a few waves but I did hook a really good left. It was slingshotting toward me and I dropped onto the shoulder at full speed, back up to the top and somehow made the turn and got flung out into the flats, kinda stuck it for a second as it closed out, then got power wash rinse cycled. Overall way more exciting than I expected from my earlier check, love that wave.

[Piggity]

The only problem with surfing blacks is that when you check any other breaks the next day it is almost always a huge let down. I didn't even paddle out this morning. Bathymetry is crazy how one place can be putting out thick emerald green shacks and everywhere else is waist to chest dribblers.

[Ottime]

^^^yes, on that last statement.

PW7 - Where is everyone? Thought there'd be a few folks in the water down there.

This morning is barely showing in town. Once the tide drops, should be shoulder high on the sets. A bit bigger north. Hoping the winds don't pick up this afternoon.

The swell up here was moving a fair amount of water as well. I think that has a little to due with it being a northern hemi swell, so generated a lot closer to us, and that is the good kind of movement. Juice. Also there was a bit of junk waves mixed in with the swell making that movement chunky and weird at times. Generally, I like the water moving. Keeps the pack spread out and moving, and makes it a bit more challenging to find the right spot. Seems to democratize the line up. Too much can make it frustrating, but it is also what gives us those shacks.

Anyway, the storm in the water up in the Gulf today is coming together nicely. Should be something for the weekend. You should come up and visit. We are expecting 6@14 and offshore conditions. OB will be sick.

[jtran10]

I wish Blacks had a webcam

[Ottime]

no you don't. not really.




i hope.

[jtran10]

haha. Great point!

Snapped a shot after work yesterday. New phone with a better camera than I had previously, mainly just checking out the quality.

[Ottime]

Tuesday morning had the sickness. And high tide. Swell was doing okay early and a few sets came through the Lane. Mostly fat and burger. Made me feel okay about heading to swim school. Anyway, grainy, but gives a sense of size hitting in town. Much smaller this morning.

[Long duc dong]

Dude, sounds like a secret life there. You know, scoring with those "outside sales buddies". I had a roommate in college who kept going out to meet up with his "pool buddies". Turns out he does not shoot pool, and he moved to Vermont, so he could get married. Funny thing, is we went to school at NYU, so no one gave a shit about preferences. Don't be ashamed of your crowd. Its all good.

.

Don't tell my fiancee.

Yeah, I didn't think of the implications of 'scoring' at Black's when I wrote the sentence. It's some pretty loaded verbiage there.

Good surf and trunkable water in Newport last weekend. It was a bit weak by Sunday, but still quite rideable. When you have 70 degree water waist high+ becomes waist high++. And the shape was good too.

PW7,

I can't believe Trestles looks THAT empty! I've never seen that on warm days in September.

Hopefully someone is getting this stuff. It's been combo all week down here.

[jtran10]

Any of you SD guys want to surf somewhere reasonably close to Carlsbad tomorrow after work (I can get out right at 5). GF having "girls night" so can be much more flexible on driving further from home with no need to be home for dinner. Preferably longboard/jong friendly

Send me a PM if you want

[BS720]

Wait, that's Barbed Wire's, right? That place is frequently empty. I imagine Uppers/Lowers was a hair more crowded.

[PowerWhore7]

Nice photos pw7, looks empty.

PW7 - Where is everyone? Thought there'd be a few folks in the water down there.

PW7,

I can't believe Trestles looks THAT empty! I've never seen that on warm days in September.

Wait, that's Barbed Wire's, right? That place is frequently empty. I imagine Uppers/Lowers was a hair more crowded.

Too, funny. It’s amazing what empty waves can conjure up in the mind huh...

Anyway, the location was north middles & lowers, 8:30am-10:30am Tuesday 9/25/12 and for some reason no one was surfing, but by 11am there was 30 guys on the point. In comparison, I took this shot of lower trestles breaking head high-over head at 8:30am in-between sets, and as I took the shot I said “no one will believe me if I don’t take a picture of this” HA-ha.


After two hours and reasonably 3 dozen 50yard or better rides, we were spent and it was starting to get crowded. Today on the other hand was a shit show everywhere. We even checked Sirens on the other side of the power plant to get away from the people today, but no luck. Thinking north county tomorrow...

[Ski to Be]

La Push Washington on Monday 10 plus and shorter periods made for some tough surfing. It was hell to get out but got one good wave and called it . I was too afraid of getting hurt . The next day was much better and lots of good rides to be had on the tail end of the swell. Today was clean but a little too small.

[Piggity]

Nice S2B. Looks eerie yet inviting.

I could possibly Jtran, if the waves are good. See what tomorrow brings