Anyone else get some today...?

[jtran10]

Ended up getting out Monday PM. Tried a 7'6"ish that I'm borrowing from my cousin (first time paddling out on a shorter board, mine is 9'). Waves still head high + in Carlsbad at that point.

Was also my first time in the water with any sort of real swell, since I just started in June and have been out of town for the other ~3 south swells we got this summer. Stayed way to the side of the lineup as goal 1 was to not get in anyone else's way when I was out there, so didn't end up catching anything. Positioning for that board so much different than what I'm used to. I did end up being in perfect position for a nice side wave that nobody else could catch. Paddled, had the wave, went to stand up and just penciled right through the wave as the board kept going. Not quick enough I guess?

Kind of annoyed that I didn't bring out my normal board since I would've felt much more comfortable paddling, being in the lineup, etc. I figured the waves would be too steep (I'm still going over the front of the board if I don't catch a waist high + breaking wave far enough out) or big for it, but there seemed to be 75% longboarders in the lineup, and the waves really weren't all that steep. Oh well; there will be more swells.

Got out again T and Th evenings. Not too much to talk about Tuesday, but had 2 great, clean chest high lefts yesterday evening. Might have been some of the bigger waves I've caught.

Going out again this evening if anyone's gonna be there. 9' baby blue bottom LB, teal green board shorts, navy blue shirt.

[jtran10]

Do you have a Mt. Baldy virtual pass?

If you plan on going a fair bit it is a great deal. Last year was terrible, and mine still ended up being worth it. Baldy is a fun little mountain, when it has a base.

Here is a link:

http://www.mtbaldyskilifts.com/ratessummer.php

I would definitely get a virtual pass if you want to get some days in. Even if the season is bad, you are only spending 114, so it is not a big risk.

I have never had a problem getting a reservation there.

Break even point is 3ish days right? Think I'll pick up one for myself and GF. Makes an easy birthday present for her in 2 weeks.

Thinking it should be easy enough to book a day before a storm's going to hit and hit the storm day. From what I've read Baldy's good on storm days, and sometimes the morning after until the sun bakes it, right?

[Ski to Be]

Got back yesterday from Tofino BC . 3- 4 footers with occasional 6 footers @18-20 seconds if you were patient. Was on my 10' Bing and got my first nose ride which was sweet. Also went over the falls on a wave and got popped so hard by my board that my tooth cut through my skin below my lip. Fortunately that happened on the last session of the last day right as I was about to come in.

[PowerWhore7]

^^Nice, 6fters on a 10’ board must have been interesting^^

From what I've read Baldy's good on storm days, and sometimes the morning after until the sun bakes it, right?

Baldy in my opinion is as good as it gets in SoCal, steep & deep if you plan it right.

Most I have ever seen is 72” on 1/22/10






If you are lucky and maybe don’t have a job, you can line up bluebird pow days like this, but...


...most of the time if you are riding pow at Baldy it looks like this.


Oh yeah, you might have to deal with something like this if you leave too late.


Sorry for the thread jack...

[icelanticskier]

baldy seems like a very cool place.

rog

[Long duc dong]

Break even point is 3ish days right? Think I'll pick up one for myself and GF. Makes an easy birthday present for her in 2 weeks.

Thinking it should be easy enough to book a day before a storm's going to hit and hit the storm day. From what I've read Baldy's good on storm days, and sometimes the morning after until the sun bakes it, right?

I have not had a problem with the reservation system.

Baldy is obviously good on the big days, but I really prefer it for the normal days, when it has a base. There are areas that get nice and buffed and are north facing, and then there are areas that are south facing and get slushy. If you get the runs down to the lot in windbuff or slush you won't believe you are in socal. I love the normal non-pow days there, as long as it has a base. I love being able to ski good 35-40 degree slush/buff an hour and a half from Newport. Just be prepared to hit some rocks.

[Ottime]

Holy fucking ski talk. SE Papa is showing 10@14 and Cp.E is 8@15. Gonna be some decent waves Sunday morning me thinks. Fingers crossed for some 7@13 for a peak around here

[Piggity]

Thread hijack, some el salvy stoke. A few randoms from a longboard break, sorry it took so long. Maybe more to come

[Ottime]

i like these








Now if we could just get some of that going on at home, mit wetsuit of course. This morning, the winds kept me off the more exposed coast, but sets were coming in around head high and long period. Steep 4.4@17 this morning. Looks like this thing might fill in nicely as it settles into the 13-15 second range. Fingers crossed.

edit: make that 5.6@17 now. period to drop soon tho.

[Tectonically_Neglected]

i like these








Now if we could just get some of that going on at home, mit wetsuit of course. This morning, the winds kept me off the more exposed coast, but sets were coming in around head high and long period. Steep 4.4@17 this morning. Looks like this thing might fill in nicely as it settles into the 13-15 second range. Fingers crossed.

edit: make that 5.6@17 now. period to drop soon tho.

Excuse my ignorance: I'm a beginning Euro/ Northsea surfer and once in a while see talk about period but dont understand it. Over here we get lots of (wind) waves in the 3 - 4sec period. I've always thought that to mean that you get a wave every 3 to 4 seconds. So for me a longer period means bigger swell and more time between waves to paddle out. You seem to be coming from the other side but I dont get the down side to long periods. Could you explain plz?

Oh and just to add to this thread: got up for an early morning session today. 7:30 in the water to catch the last of the N swell as it is dying down. Well these were the last death gurgles as there was nothing higher than 2ft out there. Nive n glassy though. Two seals frollicked around me for about 20mins which made the session a succes despite lack of waves.

[Piggity]

As usual, took a few on the head...

[Ottime]

Excuse my ignorance: I'm a beginning Euro/ Northsea surfer and once in a while see talk about period but dont understand it. Over here we get lots of (wind) waves in the 3 - 4sec period. I've always thought that to mean that you get a wave every 3 to 4 seconds. So for me a longer period means bigger swell and more time between waves to paddle out. You seem to be coming from the other side but I dont get the down side to long periods. Could you explain plz?

Oh and just to add to this thread: got up for an early morning session today. 7:30 in the water to catch the last of the N swell as it is dying down. Well these were the last death gurgles as there was nothing higher than 2ft out there. Nive n glassy though. Two seals frollicked around me for about 20mins which made the session a succes despite lack of waves.

Northsea? Germanany? That is hard core. Yeah, ya'll don't really have the fetch space for long period swell.

I like longer periods. To me, real surf happens in the 14 sec plus range. Size is seperate from period. You can have a 3cm@25sec swell. Tiny, with a long amplitude. Still, with the long period, that make wave at 10-15 cm at breaks that focus the energy. So, a 10'@17 can have twenty foot faces at Mavericks, 15-18 foot at Scotts, 10 foot at the Lane and 8 foot at Pleasure Point. This is effected by the angle these breaks face (directly into swell, away from the swell) as well as how well they focus swell energy.

Long period swells move faster and have more energy. They are more lined up, and less peaky. They tend to close out beach and shallow bottom breaks. Best for reefs and points.

Short period swell can be big. 14'@8sec is not crazy abnormal. A 2 meter @ 6 sec swell will break about 1.5 metters high, at the best breaks. It will be very peaky, with short, sloped shoulders. It will tend to be less tubular.

Period is determined by how strong, how long and how far away the winds blew to make the waves.

[Tectonically_Neglected]

Cheers foir the explanation.

Yeah, that's what I thought. Though I still have to get my head around the difference between the 'shape' of short vs long period swells. I for one know that short periode swells of say 4sec, i.e. windwaves are hardcore to paddle through. To me, that just seems like a non-stop washing machine, white water fight. Everything here (Netherlands btw) is shorebreak. No reefs, no points, all beach i.e. sandbars. That means that waves break (nearly) everywhere and there's no safe passage to behind the breakers. It also makes finding 'the right spot' in the line up (there isn't a real line up here) a PITA. Especially if you're a beginner like me.

Longer period swells (think 6 - 10 sec) always come in from the north. That's the only direction where we have something of a fetch. All else is pure windwaves. Once the wind dies, it's bye bye waves < 6hours. Still we get some OK surf once in a while.

I'm starting to find it now despite the less than ideal conditions though. It helps that I bought a board about 4 weeks ago and got to lay around in the surf quite a lot. Just started catching some nice waves, make a bottom turn en then just surf the wave till it peaters out (no fancy stuff though). Alas, tomorrow I'll have surgery to my thumb and be out till december. I doubt I'll get into the water before spring next year... :-(

Oh well, ski season :-))

[Ottime]

double post, but damn Moss delivered this morning. Nothing epic, but finally a little water moving. 4@12 with a lot of windswell lumped up on top made for some fun beach break.

T_N, another thing about period. The longer the period the more water contained in each wave, so generally, the heavier and punchier the wave. I was thinking about this this morning, as I was paddling out through the break. The 12sec period pushed me a little, as I ducked through lines of white water, but not nearly as much as a 17sec wave. And a lot more so than short period wind waves. Once those break, they tend to lose all their punch.

And as for my comment about real waves starting at 14sec, shorter period waves can be loads of fun, and at the right breaks, what will make the best wave. But with the long period swells, the energy just pulls up out of the water. The wave can actually draw you towards it, and often does.

Anyway, fun this morning, and another little system is deepening further tucked up in the Gulf.

[Tectonically_Neglected]

Sounds awesome. I'd love to be in these longer period swells. Maybe next year some time.

My season:

(End of a sweet 3ft @7sec Northsea session @Ouddorp, Netherlands)

[Ottime]

Cheers foir the explanation.

Yeah, that's what I thought. Though I still have to get my head around the difference between the 'shape' of short vs long period swells. I for one know that short periode swells of say 4sec, i.e. windwaves are hardcore to paddle through. To me, that just seems like a non-stop washing machine, white water fight. Everything here (Netherlands btw) is shorebreak.

Yeah, the super short period stuff is like a washing machine, especially at a shore break. To clarify, while the waves are further apart time wise, and you have a chance to recover, the long period swells really push you around. The super short stuff is up, down, up, down so quickly. 9-11 sec periods tend to be the easiest to paddle out through. Enough space and time between waves, without a whole lot of energy hitting you each wave.

Don't you guys have fjords? There must be some coves and bays in/near those things to break up the continuous sand bars of miles of beach break. Any harbor entrances, or jetties? Anything to break up the sand, and give you a proper sand bar. Just because it is sand bottom, does not mean you can't have a lined up wave somewhere.

Anyway, enjoy your new addiction. Good luck on the heal.

[Tectonically_Neglected]

Fjords = Norway; Netherlands = N of France/ Belgium, W of Germany and a few thousand km's S of Norway.

But to answer the Q: nope, no fjords. We do have a number of piers/ jetty's and harbours and those are typically more popular surf sites. But to be honest, that seems more of a 'protection against currents' and sometimes an easy way to get out behind the surf than that they provide some kind of point break type action.

Just to give an impression, here's a webcam of one of NL's most popular spots (Scheveningen Noord):
http://www.scheveningenlive.nl/surf-webcam/

PS When checking the cam, I unexpectedly saw waves! Hit the surf for a quick session before my operation. Stoked

[Marhankins]

double post, but damn Moss delivered this morning. Nothing epic, but finally a little water moving. 4@12 with a lot of windswell lumped up on top made for some fun beach break.

Had a ton of fun up at Manresa yesterday morning! I don't understand any of the ft@sec as I'm a still a rookie weekend warrior if I'm lucky; but whatever it was, was a blast. I didn't want to leave, and hate that I live ~4 hours from the ocean.

[Ottime]

I bet. When we pulled up to Moss, we were out of timing for roaming and had to get in. It was fun, but we both knew it was likely cleaner, more organized and just a bit smaller up around Manresa, but had no more time to waste. PM any time if you need a surf report to figure out if it is worth driving down here. This next month is looking promising with both the north and south Pacific showing potential right now.

[Marhankins]

Never surfed Moss, but heard it's usually bigger down there. When I come into town I'm pretty much always at the beaches, unless my friend who is a goofy footer isn't with me. Saturday was kinda funky, and seemed a lot more closed out with a weird backwash.
I'll have to check with you next time I'm looking to head down. I share a surfline membership with a bud, but its probably not as good as the local knowledge.

[Ottime]

^^^its not. but i check the web pretty regularly as well. as for this past sunday, strong winds up the coast and out to sea just a bit was putting a lot of lump and warble in the swell. and the sandbars are not really defined yet, cause we have had no run off in months. and that backwash was probably due to the fact that the tide was never below 3.5' yesterday.

btw, feet is amplitude (height difference between trough and peak) and seconds is period (time between passage of peaks). Mind you, a long period swell, is a more well defined wave, and as period increases, forward speed increases. So, while waves 25 seconds apart, are 25 seconds apart, they are moving like freight trains.

T_N, apologies for my poor geography. Blame that on an American education. I checked out that web cam, and it looks to me, like the jetties are working. The sand bar in the middle of the frame looks pretty well defined. Not a point break, but well defined. Any small river mouths near sandy beaches? Another option. Glad to hear you got one more session.

[Piggity]

some more central america stoke in case anyone needs some stoke


for some odd reason, there were 2 lips on this wave. I wasn't sure which one to hit, so I chose the bottom one



thought for sure I was gonna faceplant on the guy duckdiving


trying my best to bury a rail, gotta keep practicing.










I have some moar sequences if anyone needs moar stoke to get through the work week

[jtran10]

Baldy virtual pass purchased. Bring on the swell/snow!

[strawjack]

^^was that a friend you shared the wave with or a drop in?

[icelanticskier]

NICE SHOTS PIGS!!!

especially the 1st one.

bend less at the waist and more with the knees flexion/extension and angulate witgh hips. lead with the body, get the board away from you, board will always follow and come back round. again, 1st shot is a beaut!

rog