Anyone else get some today...?

[jtran10]

JONG question: what leads to the high variance in the distance waves break from shore on any given day (at a beachbreak). Is it purely tide position/sandbar movement?

[icelanticskier]

the bigger the wave, the deeper the water it breaks in. bigger waves break further out. low tide waves break further out.

river mouth this afternoon was fun fer sure. thigh/waist some bigger. very few folks on it. little sickness on it, but the land jutting out to the south kept it cleaner than most spots i know of.

headed back in the a.m. nice to be getting some sort of water time in.

rog

[Ottime]

^^^^the headland protect the mouth from most of the south winds. One of the great things about that spot considering the typical SE onshore during summers. Gonna head back up to Maine to visit tomorrow and hope to get a little water time with the buds. Looks like Wells Beach for me.

[Piggity]

Rumor has it non-fatal shark attack on cape cod today, truro beach

[icelanticskier]

^^^^the headland protect the mouth from most of the south winds. One of the great things about that spot considering the typical SE onshore during summers. Gonna head back up to Maine to visit tomorrow and hope to get a little water time with the buds. Looks like Wells Beach for me.

ya man, nice spot. amazing how much energy gets channeled in there when many other places are much smaller. kinda like this one honey hole i was surfing pretty much solo all winter in seabrook.

not too inspiring looking this am. the weed sez tomorrow morning could be 4.5 ft @ 7-8. lots of places would be worth a paddle out if this is true. heh, the weed.

hope you get somethin fun in wells!

morning everyone

rog

[icelanticskier]

smelled it coming. longsands chest+ with the whole mile long stretch to myself from 630-745am. light offshores and got better with incoming tide. 8-9am was titties. very nice sets. quebexican crowd grew thick after 8am. guess they missed the nh exit. good thing they like to all sit in one spot on top of one another. hot chicas they bring tho

happy right now. more power would be nice. not gonna complain. river mouth later?

rog

[Piggity]

Just picked up my new board, 32.9 liters of our pure sexiness. Got a smoking deal on it too, bring on some surf.

[icelanticskier]

pics?^^^^^^^^u must be stoked!

10 months and the rocket is pretty much done. not a single crack in it, just no more pop. feels like riding a slack line now. ah well, lasted me longer than a poly. will keep for groveling.

hmmmm, now to decide. 5'11 sub driver, 6' psycho germ, 5'10 shred sled, 6' lib tech vert???

looks kinda junky small here today. may have look just for yuks.

rog

[Ottime]

Good day at the beach Tuesday in Maine. Again, did not surf, but vodka drink and lobster for lunch does not suck. Surf cleaned up a bit at sunset, but low tide, micro swell and kid handling conspired to keep us out of the water.

Yesterday down on Ispwich Bay was less flat than usual, so I can imagine chest high surf up north of here. Oh well, missed the window again. Gotta say though that my old crew is a particular bunch. If it is clean, knee high and summertime, why not paddle out? I have one more chance for an east coast surf session coming up at the end of the week. Been a good visit regardless, but I can't wait until I get home and in the water. Looks like a decent south might be waiting for me.

[Piggity]

^sounds like a fun trip regardless of surf. Although a trip
back east coinciding with some surf does make the trip complete.

Here's the new toy

[BS720]

^^Wow! Dimensions? You must be stoked!

[Piggity]

fat boy special, 6'0" x 19.65 x 2.65

[Long duc dong]

fat boy special, 6'0" x 19.65 x 2.65

You're stoked.

It looks like we might have some chest-shoulder high stuff this weekend, which would be a really fun size for that type of board.

[icelanticskier]

piggity! looks like a nice knee/thigh to a few feet ohead performer. plenty o foam where ya want it with a nice pulled in tail for hold and release as things get fun.

got session #4 in so far this week tonight. got to work and watched the fucking buoy readings and swell period grow per usual. finally at 630pm i'd had it and asked to go home a bit early.twas quiet so no problemo. got to the beach, nh this time, and saw what i expected. knee/thigh occ waist and super grovel warbled whatevs waves. tide was a bit low as the "bigger" ones would drag on the outer bar and lose what little oomph they had before crumbling to nothing on the inside. surfed my 5'9 in my 4/3 along side a dude on a 9'8 and trunks. he won, but even he had trouble getting on some. then the tide filled in enough to allow the swell to carry through and release nicely on the inside providing some really fun lil rocket walls. lefts/rights evenly distributed.

gorgeous night, surfed till 830 with the full red moon rising, the sun setting and lightning bolts with rumbles of thunder just a coupla miles to the south.

wind goes light offshore overnight and swell should still be here, and maybe a touch better. heading back out from 8-11am b4 work tomorrow, waves willing.

git sum

rog

[Long duc dong]

surfed my 5'9 in my 4/3 along side a dude on a 9'8 and trunks. he won, but even he had trouble getting on some. then the tide filled in enough to allow the swell to carry through and release nicely on the inside providing some really fun lil rocket walls. lefts/rights evenly distributed.

gorgeous night, surfed till 830 with the full red moon rising, the sun setting and lightning bolts with rumbles of thunder just a coupla miles to the south.


git sum

rog

4/3 ? Is it that cold there? Wow!

I have not had to put on a 3/2 in a while, as Newport has been 63-66 and San Clemente 65-68. Newport might be a bit colder for tomorrow's evening session, and I think SC has cooled too, so I might have to break it out.

[icelanticskier]

4/3 ? Is it that cold there? Wow!

I have not had to put on a 3/2 in a while, as Newport has been 63-66 and San Clemente 65-68. Newport might be a bit colder for tomorrow's evening session, and I think SC has cooled too, so I might have to break it out.

66 degree water here. i like to be warm. really warm. shit, costa rica was 80+ and i was chilled. next time bringing a 2mm top. caribbean coast tho was a bit warmer, so was i. i've actually never bothered to own a 3/2 in 25 years of surfing here. occasionally i trunk it, but 4/3 from may to november, 5/4/3 from december thru april.

weird that i wear so much rubber here in summer, yet i ski all winter in some of the harshest, nastiest, coldest, rediculousness than most folks in any mountain region anywhere in the world, and dress quite lightly, comfortably all winter. never goggles or helmet.

rog

[icelanticskier]

the buoy and wave cam make me smile a lil bit this am. looks waist high+ and perfectly clean with light offshores.

hi

rog

[icelanticskier]

session #5 in as many dayz brought on waist/chest/bigger sets, low/no crowds, and warm water this am. went leashless per usual, so nice to have no unwanted drag.

cable road was working as it should with just a coupla of us out for the 1st hour+, then as the tide filled in i walked the beach south to the pipe and had some really fun zippy backside lefts to play with.

the rocket proved to not be quite so dead just yet

rog

[strawjack]

4/3..wtf? i don't ever want to put a wet suit on again...ever. trunks always win kidd. an ya, you should be riding a longboard

[icelanticskier]

4/3..wtf? i don't ever want to put a wet suit on again...ever. trunks always win kidd. an ya, you should be riding a longboard

i like wet suits. i don't like longboarding. it's way too ez. longboarding is for the lazy outta shape. just my opinion maybe when i'm 70 or something.

still looks nice out there.

rog

[Ottime]

^^^^

gotta say, wet suits suck and long boards rule. someday, when you find yourself out in cali, you can take the rick out for a ride and then determine if it is way too easy.

seriously tho, your dedication to the rocket is commendable considering where you live. as for the 4/3, you can seriously get away with a shorty right now. unless of course you weigh like 120#, in which case the multiple short board days in nh makes more sense.

in the end, imo, what ever makes one happy in the waves, is fine with me. given a decent wave, i'll ride my short board over the egg or log any day.

[icelanticskier]

i owned long boards on and off, mostly on for 20 years so i have a pretty good idea how ez it is

gave em up for good, just like little boards, and by only riding little boards i never lose little board fitness or get too comfy with the ease of the longboard. just how i roll. that rocket 5'9x19.5x2.38 has been a great one board quiver for my 170lb frame here. winter rubber and all.

trunked it tonight and missed the extra float that my 4/3 provides. and i was teeth rattling cold after 30 minutes even tho the water was 70 and the air like 90.

waves were ALOT smaller than this morning.

and yes whatever brings a smile to ones face. it's all good.

rog

[Piggity]

Inconsistent surf today but rode the new board, way more float than I'm used to. Perfect winter board from chest to 1.5 x's OH. Caught an OK set wave, saw the peak forming in front so decided to bring it straight up from the flats, buddy said it was as vert as he's seen me get on a 2' wave, stoked to try it in some juice.

[Ottime]

gotta be stoked on a new board. wished the surf had improved a bit more than it did. yesterday the water was toasty. spent two plus hours with the nephew on the boogie board and jumping waves. must have been 70F plus. swell even looked passable at sunset, but by then it was time for beer with old friends and the old girlfriend at the beach house. it is fun to recall all the stupidity we lived through.

the good news is that tomorrow evening, i know i'll get in for a quick session and some south swell at home.

[Long duc dong]

Another fun weekend of surf. Headed to Cotton's/Uppers Friday evening, then both Saturday an Sunday.

Friday and Saturday were really fun. Shoulder high and a bit soft at Barbedwires, but still fun. As the tide dropped I paddled up to Cotton's and scored, it was a bit bigger, with inside rights and lefts that stood up a bit more as the tide dropped. You could stay south of the pack and pick off the sets that swung wide. Cottons had a bit more juice, and a nice bowly shape. I did the same thing both days and scored. The water is in the high 60's.

Sunday I drove down, and expected the same thing. I was unbothered by the wind on the ridge you use to walk down when you park your car near Pendleton. I got to the beach, and it was pretty blown out. I had driven down, so I paddled out at Cotton's anyway. It ended up being pretty bumpy, but with some fun head high sets that had (somewhat) clean faces on the inside.

It would be nice to get some actual size, like well-overhead. Still, I can't complain' the last few weekends have delivered some very fun surf.