Anyone else get some today...?

[Long duc dong]

Saturday I ignored the blue on Surfline and headed down to Trestles.

While not as epic as the last session I chronicled here, it was still lots of fun. Head high, maybe a bit bigger, and clean. As the tide came up it softened things up a bit, but you just had to shift which peak you were sitting on.

Amazingly, it was not very crowded.

I got a recommendation for the windy app, and I have to say it did a great job. It seems to get the wind in the Trestles area better than Surfline.

This picture doesn't do it justice.

[Ottime]

windy app for the win. fuck Surfline.

[sb]

Windy app kills it.

Using it for my winging info, pulling up exact locations and the wind rose for the same is key.

https://www.windy.com/42.000/-81.738....942,-79.629,5

Null has sweet graphics but lack of reference is an issue on the stylized map. You can however mark your location which helps.

https://earth.nullschool.net/#curren....69,38.84,1295

[soul_skier]

Excited for the next few days of SW rolling into CA

[Long duc dong]

Excited for the next few days of SW rolling into CA

Let's hope the wind cooperates.

I'm going to try to get enough done tonight and tomorrow for a good 3+ hours at Trestles on Friday. Winds are looking good enough so far.

If not Trestles, Friday must might be a good Crystal Cove day. There seems to be enough swell running to light the area up.

[liv2ski]

Let's hope the wind cooperates.

I'm going to try to get enough done tonight and tomorrow for a good 3+ hours at Trestles on Friday. Winds are looking good enough so far.

If not Trestles, Friday must might be a good Crystal Cove day. There seems to be enough swell running to light the area up.

I have been dreaming of surfing again. Just 7 more days until we are back

[EWG]

I have been dreaming of surfing again. Just 7 more days until we are back

Me too. 3 weeks for me.

[EWG]

I have been dreaming of surfing again. Just 7 more days until we are back

Me too. 3 weeks for me.

[Ottime]

Swells were pumping up here. My left shoulder is finally feeling great and now the right feels fucked. Got two waves and rode it back to shore.

[soul_skier]

Spent three days on the central coast camping and chasing wind and tide conditions and don't regret it. Some real size out there but when you managed to scratch into a good one it sure was memorable!

[liv2ski]

Been really flat in San Diego since I got home. I have a few days stuff to do so hopefully later in the week picks up.

[sb]

River levels dropping but still good surf. Did two runs down the local class 3 rapid section. Each on a different sup. Its amazing how white water sup surfing will wear you out.

New Starboard 4 in 1 board showed up today. Can start winging now on a purpose built board.

[Long duc dong]

A couple of fun days this weekend.

Saturday I surfed north of the HB pier. It was about waist high with chest high sets and not much punch, but the shape was good and it was still fun. Sometimes I forget how fun small waves with good shape can be on a 7'6" funshape. If I had brought a more standard board I would have been bogging, but this thing allows for glide.

On Sunday I surfed River Jetties. It was a bit smaller, like waist high, but RJs has more push than HB when small. I took another funshape out, this time a 6'8" which has something like 54 liters of volume, and once again I had fun despite the small conditions.

It's always nice to be reminded of how fun small days can be on a bigger board.

The water has warmed up. Surfline was saying 65-67, which felt right. I have not had a Trestles day since 6/3, which was fun, but I should be able to get down there later this week.

[SumJongGuy]

High tide and fun 3-4 footers with the boogie. Bet these are a blast on a fun shape down past the flags. Will circle back to add a photo later. Too old to figure put how to do it mobile chrome and totally failed at trying to decipher tap talk.

[jtran10]

In San Diego until next Tuesday, stuck in the gaslamp until this weekend for a work thing, but hoping to surf a few days this weekend and next Monday. I've got my short board down here and will be in south SD county saturday AM so may try to surf IB. Seems like surf and tide could line up nicely down there saturday late morning.

Probably will surf somewhere from Del Mar north Sunday and Monday (we'll be staying in escondido). Stoked

[jtran10]

Ended up having a great session last night after some mediocre ones sat and sun

Sat - drove to IB. couldn't get there until 10ish and the wind was already up. There was also a sign to not go in the water south of the sign (tijuana river mouth), so I looked up water quality online because I was a bit spooked and saw that the entire area had a closure. Ended up going on a long walk down to the actual mouth of the river and watched some birds, then drove up the silver strand and surfed coronado. Consistent waves, but all closeouts. Was good to get wet and paddle a bit.

Sun - surfed in Carlsbad where the power plant used to be. Better waves, though less consistent than Sat.

Yesterday - went to a longboarder reef in carlsbad around 4pm and sat inside to catch anything the longboarders didn't take. Turned out to be the right move as I had waist high waves that lined up all the way to the beach without any competition. Sets outside were about stomach/shoulder high, but I didn't want to fight a crew on big boards so just stayed where I was. Surfed until the tide came up too much and killed it off..my arms were about to fall off anyhow.

Can't wait to get back down here in about a month! Mountain biking is fun and a great way to exercise all summer, but everytime I get in the water the mood and soul boost is like nothing else (besides skiing pow).

[sb]

Rained enough and in the right places to bring the river back up over night.

W00T!

[EWG]

In OBX. Sunday was great. Monday was good. Yesterday was little stuff folding over the bar edge just beating the crap out of us. Hoping for some improvement in the coming day or two.

[jtran10]

In other news a buddy got bitten by a shark last Saturday off Fire Island NY. Water was murky, didn't see anything. Took a bite of his foot and let go. Him and my other friend were able to paddle in, flagged lifeguards, and they got him to the ER. He'll be ok physically but hard to imagine he's gonna want to surf again anytime soon.

[Long duc dong]

Glad you got some Jtran! Hope your buddy is okay. That's pretty scary.

Hope the Gaslamp was fun. We love going down there to stay at the Hard Rock.

I was in Vegas from Thursday until yesterday, but I got a nice long session at Barbedwires/Cottons on Wednesday. I had finished everything I needed to do before the weekend on Tuesday night, so I wanted at least 3 hours of water time.

Surfline said it was 4-6....I really have no idea what they were talking about. I would have called Cottons and Uppers 3-4+ at most. The zone I surfed, Barbedwires, was 2-4. Still, I had gone down there so I decided to make the best of it. The tide was high but going down, so I thought it might stand up a bit.

The first hour was okay at best. I got some fun ones, it was soft but some of them would line up. I should add that the water had warmed back up to probably 65-66. If it had been early morning I would have wanted a full suit, but by late morning the sun was nice and I was fine in a spring for about 3.5 hours. It was not crowded and I just enjoyed being out there.

I rotated between sitting in front of the lifeguard tower and sitting in front of the railroad sign in the cliff, for you guys that know the zone. Some of the little chest high ones were reasonably fun. It was worth paddling out for sure.

After about an hour to an hour and a half a guy I always see out there paddled out. We always talk and he always seems to have the place really dialed. He and I sat close to the railroad sign, right in front of the south edge of the cliff, and it got a whole lot better. It was chest high with the occasional shoulder high peak, but the tide had dropped enough that some of them were really zippy and fun, lining up all the way in. There was an early section to beat, and on a bunch of them I didn't get past it, but if you could it would really line up. A fisthy board with some drive, which is what i was on, was the call for the day. The inside section got racy, and you could bounce off the right coming in from Cottons at the end. With only me and the one guy out we were even passing up waves on some sets, looking for a better one. For about an hour and a half it seemed like I didn't wait more than a couple of minutes after paddling back out before getting another one. The paddles back out were pretty long, that zone can really connect to the inside well when everything was working. It was pretty much all lefts, I don't think I went right all day.

It reminded me that if you catch the tide just right that area can be fun small. I almost never go to Trestles unless it is at least head high, but I was getting chest/shoulder high peaks that were really fun and racy, with a couple of sections to bounce off near the end after a nice wall. The waves in that zone are very easy to surf, typically a gentle takeoff followed by a lined-up wall. I'm going to keep those tide conditions in mind, it really showed me just how much fun I can have in that area on a smaller day if everything lines up, something I had forgotten.

The last hour was not as good. The sections I was able to glide past started shutting down on me more often. What a day though. Usually when I have a great day in that area in sub-optimal conditions it's because the wind comes up but it doesn't ruin things. Those days are usually at least head high though. This was a size that can be really fun in Newport, but not what I would want for Trestles. That day reminded me how fun that zone can be small. I will still be reticent about driving down there, with the drive and the walk it still takes me an hour to get in the water, but what a day. The lefts I was getting when it was good would be great wavepool waves. They were not epic, but just chest/shoulder, VERY easy to surf and fun. Make a wavepool that can give me 10 of those in a session and I will be a good customer.

If the Mandalay Bay wave pool could just generate waves like that how cool would it be?

On the note of Vegas, if gummies are legal in California and legal in Vegas, why can't I just take them on the plane? I'm sure I could get away with it, but given how much money we spend on a Vegas weekend it is not a big deal to go to MedMen and buy a 20$ tin of hybrids. Hopefully the made will get to enjoy the ones we didn't use. I guess the dispencaries in Vegas are the ones who benefit the most from all of that.

Happy fourth everyone! It's small but surfable here, but I think I'm going to pass. I don't want to get stuck in the HB/West Newport area when the zoo shows up.

[sb]

Sweet dawn patrol on local creek wave. Three hours and I am wiped out.

Great session and a treat to get this time of year.

[EWG]

Spectacular session to close out the couple weeks today. My two kids and I. Plus guest shots from my lovely wife and another few family members.

Shoulders are aching but my head is smiling.

[sb]

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Ha6s_8...ature=youtu.be



https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=efgVEq...ature=youtu.be

[Long duc dong]

In other news a buddy got bitten by a shark last Saturday off Fire Island NY. Water was murky, didn't see anything. Took a bite of his foot and let go. Him and my other friend were able to paddle in, flagged lifeguards, and they got him to the ER. He'll be ok physically but hard to imagine he's gonna want to surf again anytime soon.

There seem to be a bunch on Long Island this summer.

https://www.msn.com/en-us/news/us/lo...e35650d465c9d6

[Long duc dong]

Orange County is going nuts right now.

Friday the swell was building. Me and a buddy surfed HB, north of the pier. It was about head high or so, with lots of current.

The first drift from tower 10 to tower 18 was fun, but a bit walled. By the time I got out and walked back the tide had filled in a bit and the shape was much better. The wind was holding off and the sun was out. The second pass was much better than the first, easy to surf and fun. It reminded me of why I like HB so much at that size. I surfed for about 3.5 hours.

Saturday the swell had picked up. The Trestles area was 4-7 according to Surfline. I surfed mostly in the area south of Cottons. The Cottons area was crowded, and some of the sets were really cleaning up the crowd catching the inside ones. While the crowd was solid, you could pick them out and move around and do pretty well. Where I was it was head high to slightly overhead, with pretty good shape. As the tide rose some of them became swamped, but it was still fun. I stayed out and kept picking off lined-up rights and lefts. The medium ones were actually better most of the time.

After high tide, I noticed that the south Cottons zone was getting good again, and that there were not many people, so I paddled over. It was fun, with both rights and lefts. Some of the lefts were a drop to a cutback or top turn, then lining up on the inside, while others were a drop and then a closeout. In that area at that tide sometimes it can be hard to tell, you might pop up and drive down the face, do a cutback/top turn and have the thing crumble, which at that size can still be a fun foam bounce, or it can line up after the cutback section and race across the inside. Honestly, it was fun either way. The rights were really fun, both the medium size ones and the ones on the inside. It reminded me just how fun backside waves can be in that zone. After a bit more than 3 hours I was done. After I got out I looked again and saw that it was getting bigger. I thought about paddling back out, it just looked so good, but my arms were shot.

After 6.5-7 hours I decided to rest on Sunday. I just didn't have it in me, especially after so many waves, duck dives and current battles. There are days when you stay in the water for a long time but don't get all that spent. These were not like that.

This morning I looked at Surfline and saw 6-10 and Orange down at Trestles, as had been predicted. I was too busy, so I snuck in an hour at 36th street in Newport. It was okay, shoulder high+ but walled. That area is not picking up this swell at that well, Blackie's got very little, while west Newport and HB are maxxed out at around 5-7. The result was that 36th was very crowded and only okay. It actually might have been better, as I should get enough work done so that I can get a couple more Trestles sessions in this week. It looks absolutely nuts.

I am a bit surprised that 36th/32nd were not better. Usually if HB is 5-7 from an SSW swell those areas will be head high. 36th might have been head high on the sets, but they were few and far between and 32nd was small. Usually in swells this big those spots are head high and fun.

If I can get enough work done tonight tomorrow might be a Crystal Cove day. I'm not quite sure how that area is picking it up, but this could be one of those swells that works down there.

I'll try and post a few pictures later. I hope that rest of you guys are enjoying this. This is by far the swell of the summer so far.