Anyone else get some today...?

[BS720]

I have a five fin model of this: http://www.rustysurf.com/website/sur...rmance/slayer/
If I took a trip with only one board, this might be it. Easily the most versatile board I own. Not the best in knee slappers, but anything chest and up.

[Piggity]

I talked with the shaper at Rusty yesterday and he answered a few of my questions about their various shapes. Before talking with him, I was set on the slayer as my everyday board but he said it performs better in hollow waves and less so in smaller surf.

He initially suggested the Dozer and then the more we talked he suggested the Slackerr. I'm heading over to the shop on Monday and we're going to measure the volume of my current board and then make sure my next board has the exact volume I need, then finalize the dimensions. Probably 6'0" x 19.25 x 2.4 - give or take

http://www.rustysurf.com/website/sur...ryday/slacker/

[Long duc dong]

A bit bigger than waist high in Newport today. Not great, but some pretty fun little peaks. It was one of those days where you paddle out and it ends up being better than it looks.

The water cooled down a bit. I was glad I wore a 3/2.

[PowerWhore7]

^Right on^ It was waist to chest high in San Clemente today (trail 6) but the wind got to it early. I stopped @ Salt Creek for a body surf session in the afternoon south of the point since it looked like a ship sank with only emo teenagers & hipster dufuses aboard from the point to gravels. Super fun, chest high, shore break neck breakers were a plenty with the occasional eye-spy barrel to be had.

Managed to snap a pic of State Park in SC before I headed south.


Dude, where the fuck is everyone going?


I lost a good friend today. Bought in 1987 at Groggs in Seaside Park NJ they have seen their share of action, RIP my old friend...

[Piggity]

Just got back from the Rusty shop and I'm a huge fan. I met with one of Rusty's shapers, Pedro, and he is by far the coolest guy I've worked with while ordering a board. I think it might have been Josh Kerr that called while I was sitting in his office, regardless it really got me thinking, why would this guy spend almost an hour working with me on board design. I have no idea why but I must say it's the best customer service I've ever seen in an industry where customer service is non-existent. I haven't even ridden the board yet and I can almost certainly say my next board will also come from Rusty, I learned a lot in that 1 hour.

[icelanticskier]

seeing i designed my current board something like a decade ago, i need a schooling. And like supu and piggity, i need something loose and fun in the small stuff, but can still dig and grab when it hits head high and hollow... suggestions?

late to the party on this. big mayhem fan here. check this out http://www.lostenterprises.com/surfb...ls/mini-driver

grabbed a coupla small days here nh yesterday and today. knee/thigh/occ waist high sets. borrowed an 8' board yesterday. rode like an 8' board, yay. rode my 5'9 rocket today and a borrowed 9'. rocket wins every time. tiny waves that were quick and punchy. better than not getting wet.

more to come in the next bunck of days. right tide/right spot.

rog

[Superstar Punani]

so, did you get that stick for $450, or did you use more than one check?

And like supu and piggity, i need something loose and fun in the small stuff, but can still dig and grab when it hits head high and hollow... suggestions?

A friend of a friend is friends with a CI rep. Those guys get $400 boards. Friend of a friend orders like 5 boards at a time, test rides all of them, then keeps 2 and sells the other 3 to his bro-brahs at the same price.

As for your all rounder, go with something shorter, wider and thicker. One of my other buds, who's also a skier/surfer rare combo breed, made an observation that board design is going the way of ski design: shorter and wider. Take your usual shortboard, reduce the length by 3-4", increase width by 3/4-1", thickness at least 2 3/8", rounded or thumb tail, sharp rails, concave middle to vee tail and you should be good to go.

[Piggity]

The shorter/wider/thicker boards are where it's at, I've been a firm believer for 5+ years in these shapes. More paddle power but because it's shorter you get quick snappy turns like a standard shortboard. Adding more volume in the nose seems to add paddle power but leave it really responsive (Rather than distributing too much additional volume through the entire board and possibly softening the rail near the tail, you'd lose responsiveness)

I learned a lot yesterday. Maybe others are already onto this but I think calculating the volume (in liters) is priority #1 and then you can fit the dimensions of your board within that volume.

I haven't ordered a custom in a few years and I quickly realized how things have changed. The key now is precisely measuring the Volume, which will give you precise measurements of the float you can expect. Until yesterday I was guessing how thick/wide I needed (Based off of previous board dimensions). Sometimes I would add a little here or take a little off there, without knowing how that exactly impacted the volume for float.

He said those small changes can impact the volume more than you think and sometimes you can lose volume when you think you are increasing volume (in cases where you add a little width but take a little thickness off or similar). I'm 5'10" 215lbs and he is suggesting something in the 33L or 34L range. I told him I want a 6'0" Rusty Slackerr and he's now calculating the rest of the dimensions to meet the 33L of float that I need. It makes more sense to measure volume, it seems to be more precise than taking a guess at the float certain dimensions will provide.

[icelanticskier]

ya, all bout volume. gotta be able to get that rail underwater, always. too much volume and yer just skating. i'm 6' 170lb and ride 29L, my rocket. works great for me, even in the gutless clean knee/thigh bumps that were coming in this morning at the wall.

hopefully more bumps for the morning. weekend into next week looks interesting. loving these 4-6 days surf weeks, in june

rog

[Piggity]

So 33L sounds about right then. Just ordered 4 CI deck pads for about $12 each, including shipping and tax. Send a PM if anyone needs one

[BS720]

Don't forget rocker. Lost made me a rocket in 6-4. I've surfed boards a foot shorter, but due to the huge tail rocker, it wasn't a board I could get into anything under head high.

[icelanticskier]

Don't forget rocker. Lost made me a rocket in 6-4. I've surfed boards a foot shorter, but due to the huge tail rocker, it wasn't a board I could get into anything under head high.

hmmm. maybe my 5'9 has less tail rocker, but i find the increased tail rocker to really help the boards ability to complete full rail carves in tighter spaces. plus with the flatter entry rocker and high chest area volume, getting the board into the tiny seems easy. the tail kick with flat entry rocker also gives you one helluva gas pedal combo to beat closey sections too.

your custom may have more than the norm?

33L does sound perfect piggity. if it feels right, all future boards can be the same volume. or very close to it.

early up, early to the beach. rocket time!!!

rog

[PowerWhore7]

This fucking guy got some for sure! @ 50sec is the action...

[Long duc dong]

Just had a surprisingly fun session in Newport. Waist high+, so not too big, but pretty good shape. Surfed from 61 to 65, until black ball forced us past 68. The peaks between 68 and 71 were a bit better, and despite black ball it was not all that crowded. The water is mid-60's, so I was comfortable in a spring. What really made it good was that the wind held off, I expected a lot more crumble. There are some good sand bars above 61, so now all we need is a S/SW to kick in.

It's always nice to have those days where you surprise yourself. Definitely one of those days where you paddle for every ripple, and sometimes get rewarded. I will go back there tomorrow.

Did anyone paddle out in San Clemente? Or Salt Creek? I'm wondering if it is worth it to drive down.

It might not be pumping, but sometimes it is pleasantly surprising how much fun a waist high+ wave can be if everything is right.

Sunshine. Warm water. Hot girls in bikinis. Surprisingly fun little surf, when there is not supposed to be any. Sometimes I love Orange County.

[PowerWhore7]

Did anyone paddle out in San Clemente? Or Salt Creek?

I just got back from Salt Creek & it was pretty much how you described Newport. Nothing big, but peaky waist high (some rogue chest high) super fun surf...beware though - it was SUPER crowded. At one point I just grabbed my flippers and spent the rest of the afternoon deep inside closeout barrels. Good luck

Sunshine. Warm water. Hot girls in bikinis. Surprisingly fun little surf, when there is not supposed to be any. Sometimes I love Orange County.

Oh yeah ^this^

[Long duc dong]

Is the water really 58-61 today in newp/huntington?

It was nice yesterday afternoon, and I had hoped for a post-euro surf that was similar to yesterday's serendipitous fun. If it is that cold, well that makes me less fired up to surf waist high waves.

[icelanticskier]

hot air (90), cold water (mid 50's) made the africa hot temps tolerable this afternoon. had a nice lil uptick in the swell, the same afternoon uptick that has occurred the last 6 days in a row. small but fun waist high and super clean till the cold front came through at 645pm dropping temps by 20 degrees and immediately wind fucking the entire coastline with brisk northerlies. glad to have gotten some fun ones before the switch. winds should behave overnight allowing for some fun in the am. waves every day

my new better wave, or "step up" board has been picked out. 1" longer, 1/4" narrower, with a bit less volume than my small wave 5'9 rocket . thing is gonna be unreal. sidecut, finally sidecut. i'm not buying into the small wave board 1-4ft marketing. thing is gonna tear ass in anything i'd paddle into round here.

http://www.haydenshapes.com/page_var178

rog

[liv2ski]

Guess I am much to picky, as I haven't seen any rideable surf in about 10 days

[Piggity]

^sorta fun windswell yesterday at D street, 2-3'. little weak but peaky. Nothing great but NW windswell in July is odd

[PowerWhore7]

Guess I am much to picky, as I haven't seen any rideable surf in about 10 days

In OC? I have been having a blast on the 9’ log at Trails in San Clemente in the morning and then hitting Salt Creek/Strands area in the afternoon for some peaky beach break short board stuff. Nothing epic or even good for that matter but SUPER fun and tons of ASS everywhere.

[Ottime]

i'm not buying into the small wave board 1-4ft marketing. thing is gonna tear ass in anything i'd paddle into round here.


rog

It might just be a ne vs wc thing. First thing I noticed when I moved out here, was how much more power the typical waves have. I have several boards in my quiver that I would sell instantly if I was ever to move back to main. My daily driver, small wave and step up boards would be useless, except for one or two epic type days. I would need more volume in each of them to work an any regular day.

I'm back from upstate ny, and watching the wind swell start to build back up and looking forward to some solid south by Friday. Here is hoping to calm mornings up the coast.

[Piggity]

'm not buying into the small wave board 1-4ft marketing.

That's the odd part, this isn't strictly a 1-4ft board type of thing. People are now riding shorter boards in all surf, especially waves that pitch square. Waves where you need a lot of paddle but can't fit a 8'6" gun into the pocket, on the drop, as it's heaving over you. Too much board length on a critical wave makes it really easy to dig a nose. The shorter board allows you to make adjustments in a small space but still have the paddle power needed to catch the wave.

Think about having a 9'6" rhino chaser at Chopes, most likely you'll dig the nose as it's pitching square mid drop. Having a 7'2" but thicker and wider board allows you to have the same paddle power (volume) to make those steep drops without digging the nose.

[icelanticskier]

ottime, i hear ya on the power differences. even on my both coasts costa rica trip this winter i was amazed at the difference in power from home. i was riding a 6'2" x 18 3/8 x 2.25 with a buncha rocker and barely even had to paddle for waist high waves there. just turn, sink the tail, pop and go.

piggity, so key to ride boards that fit well into the waves you're riding. for the waves i ride (knee to a few feet ohead), my 5'9 is perfect, altho that new 5'10 will handle the head plus a lot better. lot less tail area.

surfed nh and mass today. after many days in a row of kinda fun, but kinda meh, this morning put a smile on my face. showed up to the wall to thigh/occ waist and dumpy closey. all it needed was a bit more water. with the tide filling in, the surf bumped up to waist with chest sets, power, and clean offshores. played with that for a coupla hours then headed home to cape cod for an afternoon surf at head of the meadow by the ole shipwreck with my uncle. waves were not nearly what i had in nh this morning, but still rideable and nicely shaped bars. place would freak me out with a real swell. i'd be more excited than a lab puppy with a ball at the beach.

64 years old and crazy as ever. he's built up a sweet surf retreat in the pines of wellfleet, so beers were had on the deck and stories shared. the surfboard rack loaded with tons of boards still used today is so cool. checked coast guard on my way back to moms tonight. glassy thigh high. gonna check it early. coast guard looked to have the best break of all the spots i checked today. i gotta say tho, i'm fucking spoiled with the breaks and wave quality in nh. we can take most wind directions as well. all cept for southeast. cape=west, wnw, wsw, and sw. limited.

78 sunny light breeze. perfect cape weather.

till tomorrow.................

rog

[Long duc dong]

Guess I am much to picky, as I haven't seen any rideable surf in about 10 days

Full disclosure, I surfed Friday afternoon and Saturday, and both of those days I basically went even though it did not look great on Surfline. I just decided I was going to go and surf waist-high slop no matter what. It ended up being more fun than I thought, but I was REALLY jonesing to get wet.

If this was coming at the end of a nice 5 day southwest, with overhead surf every day, I probably would not have paddled out.

Sometimes you just decide to go, and you find stomach high fun peaks. This weekend was like that for me.

[icelanticskier]

Sometimes you just decide to go

darn toot'n.

up early and out to coastguard beach this am. clean and breaking well across the hole then bar hole then bar hole then bar beach. nice setup really. had i been the size of a ken doll, it woulda been downright epic. twas knee with occasional patella/low thigh high sets. awesome. sofuckit i went out on the 5'9 and surprisingly, ok maybe not so surprisingly cuz the board is fucking magic, got some fun ones. the longboarders and SUPS were making one turn and going straight down the line where i was able to pump some turns and a mini floater or two. short boards rool had to be spot on perfectly angled with instant pop and pump to make it work. doing a shit ton of mini wave surfing has it's pluses round here. you get a ton o days in, and when it gets good it's ez by comparison. no work.

beautiful morning with seals everywhere per usual. nice small crowd of folks one peak over from me.

always good to get wet. always good to stay in shape.

tomorrow?

howz the west coast today?

rog