Anyone else get some today...?

[Piggity]

I'd definitely have a LB if I still lived back East, not sure why u wouldn't. Might be the first time Ive heard someone who surfs a lot only having 1 board. If it works for ya then mo power to ya.

Surfed T-street in San Clemente tonight. 2ft with occasional 3'er, super glassy and pretty chill lineup for it being semi-crowded.

[Ottime]

I think it is also a WC/EC thing. There is a greater variety of wave types out here. Summer boards tend to be smaller, and something like your rocket could work for most days. I tend to prefer something a little bigger, and in fact, don't own a groveler at all. If it is sub thigh, I'm on an egg or log.

Come fall and winter, the same short/wide board many have used all summer long, tend to get put away for something a bit narrower and longer as a daily driver. But when things go from chest/head and step up to OH and long period, many will get on the step up board. I have a 6'5" and a 6"7" that are so different. The bigger one is no fun until it gets a foot OH plus and periods are above 16s. Just too narrow of a tail for anything else. Then when the swell is running 10@17, that same board begins to feel small, loose and unable to paddle in. My big board is 8'4", pretty wide, and super thick. It will paddle into pretty much anything short of Mavs, which means it will get you into 15-25'.

When I lived in ME, I had a quiver of wetsuits. Spring, 3/2, 4/3, a hooded vest, and if I had more money, I would have had a 5/4 as well. And some board shorts. 3mm and 5mm boots and I think I had three different gloves for when the winter got cold.

I like quivers, and even on EC I eventually had a log, 6'2" fatto 80's squash, 6'6" 90's shortboard, 6'8.5" rounded pin for the really big days and a 7'6" 70's gun. Used the gun mostly for lumpy days that I wanted to ride something other than the log.

Anyway. What Hugh said. Acquire boards and ride them. Riding different boards will teach you more about the surf than pretty much anything.

And as for the surf, it has been a pretty fun week with the south being surprisingly resilient. Found some fun chest high bowling barrels last night and my one hour surf window today netted me one of my favorite summer spots. Scored too excellent waves, another two good ones and a bunch of thick drops. Fun times. More on the way, and what is developing in the NPAC right now good send us a solid does of waves for late next week. If all goes as forecast we could be back in the well OH range for 4-5 days. I love autumn.

[Piggity]

The NW looks good for down here too. I can't wait to get some juice pushing through the lineup. Now if we can get a Santa Ana lined up

[Ottime]

All that I know is that my parents are in town taking care of my son for four days, while my wife is out of town and there will be some size in the water. It never works out like this, so something has to give. Oh yeah, I need to dig a fucking French drain too.

[Piggity]

^it's all coming together for you, just don't pull an old man move like me and pull a hammy or something. Icing now so I don't miss anything this week.

This morning was pretty fun. Took the family out to breakfast and checked it afterward. Ran into a buddy that I know through our friend back east. Ran home, grabbed board and proceeded to have a blast. Way different than my session last night....much more peaky and consistent. Post session phone photo, didn't wait around for a good set to roll through but it shows the peakiness

[Ottime]

That looks fun. Is it Black's?


I was surprised by this morning. Last night it was bigger, but I just shifted one reef further up the coast, that does not need as much swell, and found some fun shacks. Not a lot, but enough. I forgot how user friendly that reef is. Super shallow slab, with super deep water on all sides. Even if you screw the take off, you can always avoid too much of a beating. Things have been really clean up here lately. Hoping that continues.

[Piggity]

Nah, couple peaks south of dstreet in encinitas. I saw my buddies photos of blacks this morning and it looked fun. I hear ya about clean conditions, i think that photo was around 11:30am when it got 'windy'.

How did you resize the photo? I'm better at linking than uploading to this site, kinda suck at it actually

[icelanticskier]

looks good!

piggers, if it was that small that i needed a longboard, i'd ride my bike instead. longboarders are always asking my how long my board is when sunk up to my nips on knee/thigh high swell. when i tell them they are always amazed at how a board that small can rip in lil waves. more sharp turns=more fun imo.

it's all what yer used to. a longboard to me is a board that has 3+' of useless foam and glass.

whatevs

rog

[Ottime]

click on photo, then when it opens in new window, cntrl click, click on "save image address"

Then in go back to TGR and in reply window paste image address between image tags [ I M G ] and [ / I M G ] (but no spaces)

[Piggity]

Let me give this a try, another inside one from yesterday. These little ones were non-stop yesterday, the fun ones were when the waves would combo on the outside and then run across the inside sandbar. I was more concerned with getting something to eat than sticking around for a good photo.

[jtran10]

Newport Saturday PM session at 33rd St wasn't too great. Waves breaking and closing out pretty close to shore. Always fun to get out there, though, especially now that the summer beach crowd has gone home.

[Long duc dong]

Another strong weekend of surf.

Friday afternoon it was newps. A bit walled but still a good time. Lefts were reeling off the 56 jetty, but the pack was intense. I sat wide, and was able to pick off the ones that swung in a bit northwest. I was surprised no one copied me, but I couldn't complain.

Saturday it was Cotton's from 8-11. It was a bit softer than I anticipated, and I would estimate there were more than 100 people between Uppers and Cotton's. Nevertheless, we were able to find little zones that popped up with the tide. That, and the fact that Cotton's does not tend to have a crowd of rippers, allowed us to have a high wave count. It's really key to find those little zones at Cotton's, they will just pop up for 30-45 minutes as the tide shifts, and if no one else notices you can get wave after wave. Then they disappear, and you need to find another little zone.

Sunday was Newport again, this time from 915-1130. It was about shoulder to occasionally head high, but hysterically crowded. Once again, I found a zone up near 60th street that was a bit lower on the crowd/wave meter. It ended up being lots of fun, as some of them really lined up, although it was still not firing the way the jetty was. The jetty was just too crowded and not worth the hassle. Where I was the rule was pretty much just to take off, and hope it lined up, which luckily some of them did.

Once again, the water is still close to 70. I hope everyone else got some this weekend. This has been one of the most consistent periods of surf I have seen. It's been surfable here since early August, almost non-stop.

[icelanticskier]

maine is fun today. lonely longsands dawn sesh yielded waist+ grounders and light offshores. little closey with 12/13 second period, but corners to fast racetracks were a nice wake-me-up.

then headed up to the rivermouth at 2hrs pre low with light offshores and waist/chest/some bigger. shared it with just one noob paddleboarder till a few others showed up halfway through. again, had to pick corners, but some rides went way the fuck down to the hotel. looooong paddleback. thank god i switched from thruster to quad. the extra speed achieved was very necessary to stay ahead of things.

headed back to longsands now for mid tide incoming........lovely day

building northeast swell tomorrow.

rog

[shera]

Yeah, I have internet and I'm going surfing. Worlds align in San Diego and I can post in this thread. Headed for OB - looking forward to trying out paddling with a wetsuit today. And it's prolly my last session til next year.

[Ottime]

then headed up to the rivermouth at 2hrs pre low with light offshores and waist/chest/some bigger. shared it with just one noob paddleboarder till a few others showed up halfway through. again, had to pick corners, but some rides went way the fuck down to the hotel. looooong paddleback.


rog

All the locals know it does not start breaking until [I]after[I] the low tide, so that is why they were not on it early. In fact, my single best session there was on a big 10' face day, about mid tide, going out. The peak was actually down the line and way inside the rocks, kind of on the inside bank of the submerged river. Tall, long, reeling waves. If you rode it all the way to the shore break, there was no point in trying to paddle back through. So, you'd get out, run up the beach, cross the river and paddle out along the rocks behind the backs of the waves. My buddy tried to tell some dud sleeping in his car at the light house that it was going off. Sleeping dude, quickly glanced at his rear view mirror and grumbled something about it not yet being low tide. Sure, it was fun at low tide that day, but the wave compressed to 6', onto the point, and shared among 30 or so folks. BTW, the running method can work wonders there, especially when there is a SSW wind.

As for SC this morning, a check at the Lane, and again, it is going off up here. Yesterday was fun up the coast, but damn does Steamers work the combo swell. Took some shots again today. Tried to line up some long shots as well. I get through those is a week or so.

Yeah, I have internet and I'm going surfing. Worlds align in San Diego and I can post in this thread. Headed for OB - looking forward to trying out paddling with a wetsuit today. And it's prolly my last session til next year.

Maybe pool swim with the wetsuit this winter for your conditioning. You will notice a pretty significant difference I think.

[icelanticskier]

All the locals know it does not start breaking until [I]after[I] the low tide, so that is why they were not on it early.

actually it's working much better pre low than incoming right now and has been for some time, plus it's a super fast/easy paddle out vs incoming. sand has moved from lesley. pre low was also better as winds were offshore and by dead low just after i got out the wind was on it and quite textured.

twas just a quiet day for some reason. talked to some regulars that didn't hit it and they were shocked that there were waves and skipped it.

rog

[Xover]

That shiz looks nice!! Almost blasted down there for my 4th trip this year; went climbing instead Will second the consistency since mid August and gotta love that the water is staying pretty damn warm for a long time. Man I love the D Street area Thanks for the pix!!!

That looks fun. Is it Black's?


I was surprised by this morning. Last night it was bigger, but I just shifted one reef further up the coast, that does not need as much swell, and found some fun shacks. Not a lot, but enough. I forgot how user friendly that reef is. Super shallow slab, with super deep water on all sides. Even if you screw the take off, you can always avoid too much of a beating. Things have been really clean up here lately. Hoping that continues.

[shera]

Maybe pool swim with the wetsuit this winter for your conditioning. You will notice a pretty significant difference I think.

I'll need to shop for my own suit at some point.

I enjoyed the wetsuit yesterday, never got cold (but there were people trunking it too) and I paddled along without thinking of it at all. Too involved with trying to figure out this new break, a beach break close to my place in sd and the board was squirrely for me too - pretty narrow 9' soft top.

I'm hitting the road soon, and will head for Santa Cruz and hang out at Pleasure Point for a couple or three days.

[Piggity]

Man I love the D Street area Thanks for the pix!!!

Glad my horrible cell photos got u stoked!

[PowerWhore7]

Did you guys see this from yesterday? FKNA!




Surfline link:
http://www.surfline.com/templates/article.cfm?id=77380

[Ottime]

Not until now. That is pretty sick and has me a bit more stoked to find some surf this evening.

Swell was not yet really showing at on West Cliff this morning, and to be honest, the buoys looked pretty meager.

Things look a bit more up now. 4.9@20 from 290 on the cdip and 3.9@20 on the spectral with some energy (.3') at 25 and .9@17. That looks like a pretty small, thick wave. Spot that could work it should be seeing 10' faces or so. Others will just see that thing deflected. Kind of what was happening at the Lane on the mid high tide this morning. Cool stuff. Hopefully this builds to the full 6.5@20 that Stormsurf was calling for. But to be honest, I am more interested in the second wave coming tomorrow and Friday. Periods will drop down to about 14s, which more spots can handle well. Mav's might break at low tide.

Weather is pretty cool right now. Thunderstorms. Started after sunset last night, cleared a bit, clouds filled in by noon and cells are passing through. Been at least two years since I've seen a thunderstorm here. Fun stuff. Now, how will this effect those winds...

[icelanticskier]

head high clean drops north end of longsands today. everywhere else choppy victory at sea.

6ft @ 8 seconds. surf good, i was not. in too far, out too far, too far left, too far right. one of those mornings. 7 ft @ 10 seconds now with winds going straight offshore tonight. south of the restaurant tomorrow for high tide. hopefully i'll peform better today, can't perform much worse

rog

[Ottime]

I know those sessions too well. Best thing is to go at it again. Besides, 7@10 sounds like so much more fun than 6@8. Some decent sized sets came through this evening, but nothing large. Maybe a few feet over head, but plenty thick. The better ones gave a nice long ride all the way through to the inside. From the cliff, I watched one set come in late. The great thing about these like long period swells is how they suck water out, and push it back in, like a mini tsunami. I watched this one wace, peel 100 yards at a few feet overhead, and as it came toward the beach, it just pulled all the water out from in front of it and an 8' wall of water just exploded on the sand. Next few days should be fun.

[icelanticskier]

Best thing is to go at it again.

this morning was much better. smaller, but much more organized and consistent south of the restaurant around the high tide. lefts/rights. whatever you wanted. place was empty. never ceases to amaze. haven't surfed nh in weeks.

glad yer gettin the goods!

rog

[supermodel159]

Just back from a trip. 4 days of this. Number of people I saw: 2, both of whom were in my group.

If you know the spot, you are one of the few...