Anyone else get some today...?

[Piggity]

North end of campgrounds has a left that can get fun on certain tides/swells. O'side harbor should be hitting pretty good if you're looking for a little more juice than campgrounds.

[jtran10]

The couple times I've surfed a little bit south of the pier in Oside never really got a good vibe. Waves seemed steeper and mostly closed out, though that may just be my jong self a couple months ago (haven't been up there since June or July). I'd assume the harbor gets a different crowd than the pier though.

[PowerWhore7]

Surfed trail 6 in San Clemente this morning (due to the shit show @ Trestles) head high, glassy and no one around, just likes Rog like it. Ha-ha

Then went to Hoag hospital and got a cortisone shot in my hip joint (3” fucking needle into the joint) followed by an MRI and a fucking epic panic attack due to extreme claustrophobia (I know I’m a huge pussy).

Back down to San Clemente for an afternoon session at State Park, chest-head high, sort of blown out, hollow, and absolutely brutal poundings in the 2ft of water it was breaking in.

Super fun day, I think...


jtran10- PM me if you ever find yourself in OC with no one to surf with.

[icelanticskier]

Surfed trail 6 in San Clemente this morning (due to the shit show @ Trestles) head high, glassy and no one around, just likes Rog like it. Ha-ha

no one around rules. fucking hate surfing around people. one friend is fine, just one

speaking of no one around, maine this morning. mile long beach with perfect chest+ a-frame bowls 5ft@ 8-9 seconds with just the gal and myself out. one other guy finally paddled out down the beach a ways. we surfed from 9-11am with straight offshores. no complaints

looks like more on the way for the next week, winds willing. fuck i love fast rolling windswells. not the punch of the grounders, but wave face is wave face and that new 5'8 kechele sprocket is so much fun! may as well throw the quad fins away, that thing was meant to be ridden thruster.

rog

[jtran10]

jtran10- PM me if you ever find yourself in OC with no one to surf with.

Cheers powerwhore. Unfortunately I never have anyone to surf with. Coworkers (also all from VT) don't have the dedication to learn for real, and haven't met anyone else that surfs consistently yet.

Hoping to get up to Newport this weekend, but we'll see. My cousin lives at 33rd St.


On a positive note got my first head high wave at Tamarack this evening. Waves seemed pretty fat and mostly hard to catch outside (shortboarders getting more action on the inside though), but had a couple alright ones. Bigger waves were closing out quickly though.

[Ottime]

Meh this evening. Had fun chasing small bowls with the buddy, but fuck these weak as south swells. So ready for some juice. Chances are looking better and better for a little 8@17. Looks like the season opening is all but wrapped up and in the mail. Rog, I agree rolling wind swells can be fun, but I am looking forward to some of my favorite spots turning on, and that takes the deep, long groundswells. Fall begins next week.

[Ski to Be]

It is going to be great out on the Olympic coast in Washington Sun-Tuesday. 10 ft @ 14-16 seconds and little wind.

[Piggity]

but fuck these weak as south swells. So ready for some juice.

+1

Skitobe, 10' at 14 sec makes me jealous, hope u score.

Jtran, o'side is just another sand bar that will closeout, harbor is slightly better since it has 2 jetties to help form some peaks. You're probably better off at a place like terra mar or north end of camp grounds where there is some reef to help make for longer rides without closing out as often. Pipes in Encinitas is another decent spot to learn since the waves tend to be softer there. Hit me up if need someone to paddle out with

[Long duc dong]

Just checked the surfline cam for Newport, 54/56th street. It's going OFF! If you get a chance, look at it. And if any of you can, go surf. I'm going through convulsions, and might just have to leave the office a bit early today.

Tomorrow things will have dropped a bit, but it should still be good, and I should be good to go for afternoon.

[icelanticskier]

Meh this evening. Had fun chasing small bowls with the buddy, but fuck these weak as south swells. So ready for some juice. Chances are looking better and better for a little 8@17. Looks like the season opening is all but wrapped up and in the mail. Rog, I agree rolling wind swells can be fun, but I am looking forward to some of my favorite spots turning on, and that takes the deep, long groundswells. Fall begins next week.

i hope you receive what you've been patiently waiting for.

LDD, resist the cams at work! i know what yer going through, i go through it daily/weekly sometimes. even thigh/waist clean days freak me out on the regular. waaaaay worse than missing pow.

wind on it here today. should lighten up enough for some fun ones in a.m. hopefully.
sunday-tuesday look like double sesh days.

rog

[Ottime]

its funny to go back and look at those 14-16day models. how very much they are not the same. still looking on tract in the near term, and the mid term has shown improvements as well.

Saturday's map


If this comes to pass, it will be so settling, as I chase down small wind swell this weekend. Even if I don't get a chance to really get out there on these waves, it will be fun to see swell in the water.

[Piggity]

Looks good Ottime, the long range models look good for both hemi's between 160-180hrs, won't hold my breath but still interesting.

Shoulder to head high+ at Blacks beach tonight, fast takeoffs with the super low tide and pitching into thigh deep water. My surfing was a little off but did manage a few of the bigger set waves, got one of the nicer front side snaps I've had in a long time. One where you hear the crack as the board smack the lip and somehow managed to stick it in the flats, that was my highlight of the day

[Long duc dong]

Rog,

You're right about the cams at work, but sometimes I can't resist. With me, it actually helps me sometimes, as I get pumped for Friday afternoon.

Piggity,

I love Black's at shoulder to head high. I know it pumps bigger, but the best day I have ever had there was a shoulder to occasional head day at with 100-150 yard lefts. It was a bit soft, but you could glide for 100 yards and have it line up fast on the inside. I played hooky from the office and went down on a Friday afternoon with an outside sales buddy, and we scored. I think most of the other surfers were UCSD kids, the crowd was pretty light. I know Black's can pump, but I would love to get another medium size day like that.

Thank god for the walk down. Just like Trestles, Black's would be much more crowded without the walk.

[Piggity]

Nice LDD, some of the best days are those in-between days when it hits the sandbars perfectly. Tonight it was catching some of that steep NW windswell and some SW too, really fun when they combined. The usual 3 peak lineup turned into various peaks up and down the beach, lot of waves.

I decided today to get back to priorities and surf there more often. In years past there have been days where it was worth 2-3 walks up/down that cliff but I've slacked the past few years. In winter that wave has some teeth for SD standards, mind blowing emerald green almond shaped A-frame shacks. I need some this winter. Let me know if you head down sometime

[jtran10]

Have a weather techy question for you guys. I'm sure it just has to do with the angle of the coast at these two particular spots, but how is the current south swell we have going right now 1ft@13s at Terrmar (http://www.surfline.com/surfdata/lol...el.cfm?id=4775) but 3ft@13s at Cottons (http://www.surfline.com/surfdata/lol...el.cfm?id=4737).

Terramar coming in at 187 degrees while cottons is at 179. Does this just mean the majority of the wave energy is in the 180ish range, and the 187 that is able to hit the coast at Terramar/n. county SD has a lot less power? The follow up question to that is why Terrmar isn't bringing in that 180 degree range. Are the little bumps out at La Jolla and OB/Point Loma enough to block the direct 180S?

[Ottime]

I played hooky from the office and went down on a Friday afternoon with an outside sales buddy, and we scored.

I know Black's can pump, but I would love to get another medium size day like that.

Thank god for the walk down. Just like Trestles, Black's would be much more crowded without the walk.

Dude, sounds like a secret life there. You know, scoring with those "outside sales buddies". I had a roommate in college who kept going out to meet up with his "pool buddies". Turns out he does not shoot pool, and he moved to Vermont, so he could get married. Funny thing, is we went to school at NYU, so no one gave a shit about preferences. Don't be ashamed of your crowd. Its all good.

I've never surfed Black's but it sounds like it get similar to Moss. Holds sizable swell, and is hollow. I too prefer the chest to sometimes head high days. Less current, and way more waves on average.

Long walks are great in CA. They seem to really thin out a crowd. That walk to Trestles is not very long, IMO, but it seems to keep those crowds pretty thin. I mean, once I was down there on a slow Saturday and there were fewer than 100 surfers in the water. Still, I know what you mean. Around here, there are so many waves you can sit and watch from your car, and be in the water in less than five minutes. ANd crowds grow quick if it gets good. Those spots that require a little work stay thinner. That is why I like a certain slab at the bottom of a cliff and another certain slab that requires a mile plus of low tide beach scrambling to get to.

Coming swell still looks decent, but has backed down a bit. More in the 6-8 foot range, as opposed to 8-10. Still, we may get a few rogue sets pushing the DOH range. Winds look mellow on Monday evening at this point. Um, yum. The best thing about it, is that they keep on coming. Maybe a bit smaller, but it is hat time of year when you can generally go out and find chest high on a small day. Game on.

Oh, and I just ordered a board with my neighbor. Excited. Should have it within the week.

Have a weather techy question for you guys.

I don't know these buoys, so I can't speak to specifics, but buoy readings are difficult things to decipher. There are a lot of variations, not limited to type of buoy, wave refraction, blocks, angle, etc. The buoys do there best to give accurate info. Older (and simpler, cheaper) buoys generally give a conglomerate of swell height and period. So, when we see 6@17 during the summer on one of those types up here in summer, it is usually small south swell at 17sec (dominant energy) and wind swell, maybe 5'@8s. But a better buoy will break that down and show different spectral analysis. So, in this instance, maybe 1.8@17 from 185 and 5@8 from 320. The best buoys provide all the data, what height, period and from where. Usually around here, there are several swells in the water at once.

Also, where the buoy is, relative to where the swell is coming from, is important. It may be in the shadow of an island or cape, meaning no swell is read at the buoy. Or, the waves could be getting refracted by a land mass, decreasing height, increasing period and changing direction. Deep water swells, up above 16 seconds, dig really deep under the water surface and get move around by land under the sea, so unless the buoys are in very deep water, then even that could make minor shifts. And now imagine if you have 2 souths in the water, one more local and tropical in nature, and a little nw wind swell getting into the mix.

As for what actually makes into into the beach and breaks, there is even more variation, once you consider the shape of the coast line. I know a spot up here that faces south, and is not blocked by a land mass to the south, yet picks up no south. Yet, it is blocked to the nw and n by a very large peninsula and pulls in the most minor of nw windswell. Needless to say, a s facing spot that loves a nw windswell is a fun place.

[icelanticskier]

I too prefer the chest to sometimes head high days. Less current, and way more waves on average.

i live for those days. i'd MUCH rather surf chest/head with a wave every 3-4 minutes than twice that size with much more work and 1 wave every 15 minutes.

They seem to really thin out a crowd.

wanna know how to thin out a crowd or keep the crowd down?

first, i always surf with a watch on. if you have a watch on and someone in the lineup asks you what time it is, you can lie and tell them it's 20-30 minutes later than it really is. i do this at rye rocks when it's near time for folks to head to work or go home to baby duty.

second, cars pull up to look, don't catch any waves and swat at the water occasionally to act like you are pissed cuz the waves ain't happinen. works perfect for those precious rye rocks days in the waist to chest range. i was out recently on a great wave day in maine. cars were pulling up where me and my gal were having our way. well, this one wave came right after 3 cars pull up to take a look. i unfortunately got after that wave and yelled, "oh fuck" as i pulled out, and my gal was like, "that looked like a great wave you got!" i said, "i know, that's the problem" as all three cars soon had doodz pulling rubber on quicker than a teenager wrapping his rascal for getting laid for the 1st time.

rog

[icelanticskier]

fuckin perfect this morning.

drove around looking at waist high beach dribblers. drove by an empty rye rocks to see an absolute perfectly walled up belly high left peeling across the reef. SOLD!

had the place to myself from 730-830am on a saturday with hundreds of carz with boards just driving right on by. love that.

for my second hour, two friends joined me and man were we having fun on our lil boards and laughing that it was just us on one of the best reefs on the entire east coast. nothing big, but with big comes tradeoffs. tossin backside buckets multiple times per wave, even belly high.....i'll take it anyday

tomorrow looks up to twice the size with straight offshores all day. fuckin stoked.

rog

[Ottime]

i live for those days. i'd MUCH rather surf chest/head with a wave every 3-4 minutes than twice that size with much more work and 1 wave every 15 minutes.


wanna know how to thin out a crowd or keep the crowd down?

first, i always surf with a watch on. if you have a watch on and someone in the lineup asks you what time it is, you can lie and tell them it's 20-30 minutes later than it really is. i do this at rye rocks when it's near time for folks to head to work or go home to baby duty.

second, cars pull up to look, don't catch any waves and swat at the water occasionally to act like you are pissed cuz the waves ain't happinen. works perfect for those precious rye rocks days in the waist to chest range. i was out recently on a great wave day in maine. cars were pulling up where me and my gal were having our way. well, this one wave came right after 3 cars pull up to take a look. i unfortunately got after that wave and yelled, "oh fuck" as i pulled out, and my gal was like, "that looked like a great wave you got!" i said, "i know, that's the problem" as all three cars soon had doodz pulling rubber on quicker than a teenager wrapping his rascal for getting laid for the 1st time.

rog

First, my favorite size wave is much bigger. Say 3-4 feet overhead and reeling on a reef. But at the right spot, it is not a whole lot of work. Just sit on the right spot, gently paddle, get throw in, stand up, turn if you like, and get spit into the channel. But, at a beach, waves that size create too much work, and the chest/head days have just enough current and movement to keep the line up mixed up. If you find an empty working bar at Moss during all but the off hours, then you are very lucky indeed. Guys around here who need to know the time usually wear their own watch. And they are not so gullible to allow a little water slapping to deter them. But if that works, hey, great. A spot like Rye would be pretty crowded around here. So close to the car.

Anyway, found should chest/shoulder high waves today. A bit sloppy on the peaks, but they really lined up well on the reef for the most part. All that sand is doing its thing. Now we just wait for Monday evening. And as we surf this next swell, it looks like some is brewing right behind it. Smaller, but waves.

[jtran10]

Looks like some fun surf on tap this week. WNW tonight/tomorrow morning, SSE after that, SSW after that.

Hope to be at Terramar for a bit tonight, but GF's mom is in town and we have dinner plans. Hopefully can put them off until after dark.

[Ottime]

West Cliff is alive. Santa Cruz CDIp reporting 9.5@17 from 295. Monterey Spectral reports 5.3@17. Regardless, it is overhead in town. Bigger up north. Winds are light and southerly. Yes, it is good. Wife home at 3:45. Me on road, 3:46.

This thing peaks tonight up here. Probably tomorrow morning down there. Then a small south, and a small nw, then more for the weekend. Way to close out September.

Got some okay pics this morning on the stroll with the little guy.

[Marhankins]

Watching the Maverick's cam; goddamn that would be scary to be caught on the inside.
OT, post up some pics!
I'm heading down on Thursday and the forecast looks pretty decent so far.

[Piggity]

Wife home at 3:45. Me on road, 3:46

slacker

(not that I have ever slacked and caused others to miss a tram or anything )

[Ottime]

^^^^Just more time to sip my coffee and talk with the locals. Looks like I might be down there again this April.

Watching the Maverick's cam; goddamn that would be scary to be caught on the inside.
OT, post up some pics!
I'm heading down on Thursday and the forecast looks pretty decent so far.

Ya. This thing is hitting bigger than I thought. CDIP up to 11.1@17. Adding a bigger board to the back of the truck.

[PowerWhore7]

Looks like it’s on for most of CA tomorrow and the rest of the week, prob gonna hit the HB cliffs for dawn patrol & then San Clemente/south OC for an afternoon session - then rinse & repeat.

I’ll try and take some shitty pics with my new camera...