Sounds fun LDD, it's been small here in central SD.
2 sessions on the new board, both times about 2ft surf so it's hard to get an accurate read on the board just yet, other than a turn here and there. For some reason I'm kinda struggling paddling it, even though it's got way more volume than I'm used to. It's really hard to explain and isn't exactly how I expected it to paddle. I've been riding similar type hybrids but I guess they have been more on the fish side of the spectrum, this seems more toward a traditional shortboard but with lots of foam. I have a trip coming up so hopefully I can dial this thing in soon, I think it just needs some juicy waves to shine.
I surf mostly towards Cottons, I also really like the lefts right where you walk out, right near the cliff, a bit south of Cottons, an area people call Barbedwires. I really like the way the lefts wrap in there. Those don't get quite as much of a crowd, and it's pretty mellow. People ride different sizes of boards, some longboards, eggs, and lots of fish. It can be a bit soft in the chest-shoulder high range, but on a fish you can really glide and link up sections.
I wouldn't be too worried about the weekend crowds. The area from Uppers to Cottons tends to spread people out. Right at the point on Uppers can be crowded, but even with lots of people out you can usually find a spot. It's not like Lowers, so I would not sweat the crowd too much.
The point at Uppers is more shortboards, but I don't tend to surf there. I'm goofy, so I like the lefts north of the main point at Uppers.
When it gets a couple of feet overhead Middles - which for some reason is south of Lowers, and not between Lowers and Uppers? - can be really fun. It's mostly a right, with some good lefts too. It needs size to wake up, but it has a mellow crowd, with people riding all sorts of boards.
I got the obligatory 'want to go to Trestles' text at 11 am today from my outside sales buddies, who damn well know I'm in the office![]()
"Have you ever seen a monk get wildly fucked by a bunch of teenage girls?" "No" "Then forget the monastery."
"You ever hear of a little show called branded? Arthur Digby Sellers wrote 156 episodes. Not exactly a lightweight." Walter Sobcheck.
"I didn't have a grandfather on the board of some fancy college. Key word being was. Did he touch the Filipino exchange student? Did he not touch the Filipino exchange student? I don't know Brooke, I wasn't there."
Tomorrow (Wednesday) looks like the day I can get on a board here in Wells while my wife 3yo, 3 mo and MIL hang out on the beach. The surf looked pretty good yesterday at high tide but I'm a nube so what the hell do I know(chest high sets and there were several people with boards out there riding them).
Short or long board? I'm 6'4" 185lbs. I have very good balance and I'm a strong swimmer. And I know how to catch a wave (yesterday while body surfing in some smaller waves further up the beach, I was able to out ride some French Canadians who were on boogie boards).
Going to rent at Liquid Dreams.
Edit: a shortish board will fit in the van betterer (cargo box on top)
P.S. Long Sands is also an option. Which is better?
<p>
Aim for the chopping block. If you aim for the wood, you will have nothing. Aim past the wood, aim through the wood.</p>
Not much difference in rocker. It seems like most of the foam is further back toward the tail than what I've been riding and that might be why it is paddling funny. But if I scoot back and paddle then it feels like I'm way to far back, it's hard to find the perfect balance. The good thing is that once I'm up to my feet, it seems like a sick board. I've had 2 vert turns on micro waves that I would have normally dug a rail on the re-entry. I think it will be a perfect everyday board in winter for chest to OH and I'll have to get a groveler for knee-stomach waves.
Last edited by Piggity; 08-07-2012 at 11:28 AM.
HOLY CRAP, CHEST HIGH YESTERDAY? i rode my bike by shin/knee at best down nh way. was it chest high while you were standing in waist deep water?
longsands was knee at best yesterday and rivermouth knee/thigh from a report from friends.
good score! i'd give both my nuts for more chest high right now.
rog
Maybe i have the measurements off. If I was standing in the water (roughly waist deep), it would have easily been hitting me in the chest, more likely the face.
The surf that was standing up like that was limited to a small stretch near the second life guard tower north of Mile Road. The rest of the beach (aka the stuff I was body surfing in) was only hip high or so in thigh depth water.
There were 6 or seven people on boards out there.
Last edited by From_the_NEK; 08-07-2012 at 12:15 PM.
<p>
Aim for the chopping block. If you aim for the wood, you will have nothing. Aim past the wood, aim through the wood.</p>
Stick with Wells. Tends to get the most surf except longer periods at the river mouth. LS is musher. Stick to the high tide coming in, if you can. Head a bit further north. Spiral Stair Case (look at the houses) tends to get good, a well as Lisa's (near where the sea grass begins). Have fun. That's my home break.
Board was working great tonight, think I found the sweet spot. Small waist high fun wedges just before dark.
i had some nice waves the past week in spain and i'm flying to eastern Indo on Sunday. Life's all right i guess.![]()
It's a war of the mind and we're armed to the teeth.
high tide dropping, dragging. black oily clean wedgy a-frame perfectly walled up 5th street cowhampshire wholesome goodness this morning. best waves in at least 2 months.
waist chest+ with plenty of frequency and zip for the cordless rocket. perfect rocket waves actually. felt so nice to get flung effortlessly into the machine made rights. the wall of 2008 may be back. finally
tomorrow?
rog
Finally. Not that the weak nw wind swell over the last few days was not way juicier than anything I saw while in Maine. But finally, some fast, walled, if a bit jumbled, head high southy slots to shovel myself into. Fun morning. WOndering how that wind and tide will effect this evening. Wife goes back to work in the morning, so it looks like summer fun is over. Back to mornings with my boy and a few evening sessions when things line up. Better tune up that mountain bike. And pray for the windless days of fall.
What a farking week this has been. Let's hope the streak of horrible luck has ended this morning when I was kicking out and the board flipped up and put a gash to the bone in my shin and ding on my rail. Waves were fun though, chest high+ but fun and wedgy
heal up quick man^^^^^
came down to the cape today to see/help out the family plus play landlord. managed to get in a nice lil sesh with my uncle at marconi. bars are set up quite nicely right now. winds were offshore enough to keep conditions clean in the land of fickle. waves were small and weak in the knee/thigh+ range, but rocketable.
man am i spoiled in nh compared to when i was living on the cape. probably get at least 3 times the water time in due to better conditions and breaks/waves in general. still nice to get in the water.
gonna get up early and check on things to see if it's worth a paddle out. winds will be perfect, but will the south microswell still be showing?
rog
some pics from yesterday morning that ed shot. these were shot near 10th st.
really fun morning if you couldn't tell from my post from yesterday
http://www.ralphspic.com/END-Ed%20Au...012/index.html
rog
^^^^Nice photos. I would have loved to have been there.
Never in U.S. history has the public chosen leadership this malevolent. The moral clarity of their decision is crystalline, particularly knowing how Trump will regard his slim margin as a “mandate” to do his worst. We’ve learned something about America that we didn’t know, or perhaps didn’t believe, and it’ll forever color our individual judgments of who and what we are.
ya man, we get some special windows of opportunity fer sure. sometimes many many of them per week/month. not so much since june ended tho. glad i was on it that morning.........and on a much quieter peak just 5 streets to the south of the photog
ankle high n choppy today. maybe a tick to knee/thigh later from a disterbance offshore south. watching/waiting/ready to get whatever comes our way.
rog
Quite sure, but then you do not get on the bro love that is the photog. I mean, where it the "enter the rog" caption. Gotta say, I was expecting a lot more from Jared based on that introduction.
Some small sure on tap up around these parts. Mostly background souths, but it has been fun with the wind holding off the past few days. Last nights session was nothing special after choosing to try a reef that really was just getting swamped by the tide. Then a female elephant seal popped up to bark and say hello and check me out. Always makes me a bit tense. Then her lady friend showed up. A few minutes later I had about eight seals playing and swimming just yards away. I love the water around here.
I don't have any good pictures because we all jumped in. Five in our boat and rolled up on two guys who arrived by jetski and anchored well off the break. We did the same. Was OH@20 seconds here. We didn't see anyone else all day. The outside was DOH and went unridden all day - it was squaring off for sure. Left hand cobble reef pt was running sweet.
![]()
Looks fun boltonoutlaw, hope the rest of the trip lines up well.
Another good weekend of surf for me in oc, although it was a bit disappointing until Sunday.
Friday evening I chased swell down to uppers/barbed/cottons, and while it was fun, it was a bit soft, and not as big as predicted. It was head high occasionally, with most sets being in the shoulder high range. I positioned myself north of the crowd, and lapped up every bump I could find. Most were too soft, and I ended up doing lots of cutbacks. Occasionally a fun one would sneak through. It was one of those sessions where you catch a million waves, and every once in a while a fun one would come through. The water was warm, probably 70, so I trunked it very comfortably.
Saturday afternoon was more of the same. I drove down again, hoping it would be a foot bigger. It wasn't. I went as the tide was bottoming out, and that slowed things down. It was still a fun session, similar to Friday, but not quite what I had hoped for. Still definitely worth it, but the forecast had pumped me up quite a bit.
Sunday I went in the Morning, from 10 am to 1230. It was a couple of feet bigger, although still soft, and super fun. The added size gave it just enough push, some of them really lined up. Despite the crowd, I was able to pick off wave after wave, and it ended up being one of those days where you don't have to wait more than 5, or at most 10, minutes for a wave. The smaller sets were shoulder high, and some of them were surprisingly fun, although lots were mushburgers. Another day of taking off on everything and hoping some would be good. The medium sized sets, head high, were bowly, and lined up. They were really fun, and for some reason there were only a few of us in the barbedwires zone. The bigger sets were a foot or two overhead, and awesome, just long lined-up lefts. It ended up being one of my better sessions of the summer. The 70+ degree water didn't hurt either, I was able to trunk it for several hours without being cold at all.
Hope everyone else go some of this too.
"Have you ever seen a monk get wildly fucked by a bunch of teenage girls?" "No" "Then forget the monastery."
"You ever hear of a little show called branded? Arthur Digby Sellers wrote 156 episodes. Not exactly a lightweight." Walter Sobcheck.
"I didn't have a grandfather on the board of some fancy college. Key word being was. Did he touch the Filipino exchange student? Did he not touch the Filipino exchange student? I don't know Brooke, I wasn't there."
Photo #1 is piggity this morning
edit: the link changed
Last edited by Piggity; 08-22-2012 at 11:00 PM.
^^^^nice air, but I prefer pic #3
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