Nice Shera, you're amped on those Lhasa's! I got me some 191 lhasa Fats, blacked out carbon top sheet and no logos...sexy pair of skis.
Nice Shera, you're amped on those Lhasa's! I got me some 191 lhasa Fats, blacked out carbon top sheet and no logos...sexy pair of skis.
done did git sum good ones today. morning wuz a bit of a disappointment with the never ending shit non-summer winds, and crowds. yes, worse crowding than summer in ways.
the wind FINALLY went offshore proper this afternoon and a really fun time was had. not big, but very well formed. as is the case with october-march surfing. here one day, gone the next and for weeks probably. stoked on this afternoon, but missing summer consistency/cleanliness big time.
rog
the swell decided to stick around for one more day with light offshores. smaller than friday, but still PLENTY fun on the log. probably coulda ridden the short board, but i was feeling kinda lazy.
i pull up a bit after 1st light to find an empty lineup at the rocks. thigh/waist high groundswell sets breaking perfectly across the point. as i watched, cars would pull up and pull out as if they were seeing nothing. i'd just driven by some beach breaks and wasn't impressed in the least. the beauty of the rocks is as soon as it goes waist high or below, it seems to go completely off the radar. love that cuz it's such a fantastic wave at that size range. perfect lefts.
for the next 2.5 hours i had the rocks to myself, in perfect longboard waves, on a saturday where endless cars with boards drove by all morning, only a few actually stopped to look. i was awestruck. some of the set waves had me longing for the 5'9" rocket, but i just couldn't get out to make the switch. when i got out of the water (i was almost late for work), i drove by those beaches and the crowds were astounding. tons of folks out on waves that paled in comparison to my lonely point break.
talk about sheep mentality. no complaints here
tomorrow could be fun too.
rog
I got one like that at the rocks back in the day, titty high with some punch, sheet oil glass, the log was in the zone, nobody out. But it was a weekday and the coldest air/water combo I'd ever surfed. It was fucken brutal but still awesome! Top ten surf experience of my life. Good to hear you can still get a good sesh to yourself there these days...
Bunny Don't Surf
Have you seen a one armed man around here?
word.
got up this morning and slipped and slid my way down the coast on ice covered roads. had a bout an hour and a half to surf b4 work and wasn't seeing much till finally i pulled up to the wall at 730am. bluebird, light offshores, perfect knee/thigh w/occasional waist high set and not a soul out. couldn't friggin believe it. 1.5 miles of beach and no one out. gorgeous morning. for an hour and a half i surfed between 10th and 13th on the log with some rights that had me just laughing with joy. finally i saw one lonely surfer getting ready to head out so i took that opportunity to get out and pass him on tha stairs with a simple, "have fun, it's all yours now". unreal
sunday could be the real deal. blowing off the early season snowstorm skiing for riding of a much more dynamic variety.
rog
Fuck, I am dieing here. It has been so flat I haven't surfed in two weeks. Aaaaarrrrrrggghhhhh
Never in U.S. history has the public chosen leadership this malevolent. The moral clarity of their decision is crystalline, particularly knowing how Trump will regard his slim margin as a “mandate” to do his worst. We’ve learned something about America that we didn’t know, or perhaps didn’t believe, and it’ll forever color our individual judgments of who and what we are.
I (kind of) hear ya. Up until a few days ago, the surf was teh suc for a few weeks. Sure, a few nibbles here and there, but the better sized days tended to be bumped or warbled. But be patient, it will come. The long term has some hope for more significant dateline action, which is just what you folks down south need.
As for the kind of. Found a ledge working last Tuesday, even with a slight on shore. No one else on it, and super fun. And then found a sand bar in Monterey Bay. Had it to our selves on Saturday at about shoulder to head high. And then again Sunday, a bit smaller. Then like 80 people showed up. Okay, it was only 12, but WTF - the entire beach north as far as we could see was empty peaks; and south had like three guys. I guess my buddy and I were just ripping it up and making it look good. Had a lot of hope for the off shores to hold to this afternoon, but when I left home, I had to find a protected point. Smaller than I wanted, but still a fun should high.
Still can't wait for some real swell to show up and turn on the creek or nb.
Just got back from a beach just across the bridge from where Kelly et al. are. Small, unmakeable barrels abound.
Putting the "core" in corporate, one turn at a time.
Metalmücil 2010 - 2013 "Go Home" album is now a free download
The Bonin Petrels
^Weather looks to be a problem down this way too.
Just got out and the fog bank was pushing up the canyons from both the north and south of where I surfed. Really thick and milky. Flowing over the top of ridges into the canyons, pretty cool to watch unfold when it's bright sun and then a thick fog bank about 300 yards away.
Glassy, waist to nipple high, really sunny and mellow crowd. Even the 2 brazilian dudes at the end couldn't harsh my mellow. My batteries are semi-recharged, thankfully.
Yesterday was good around the central coast. Super clean and moderate swell. Moss was called "all time" during the dawn patrol. Slater found a world title at OB in the afternoon. I found fun waves around sunset. The Lane around noon was about chest high on the better ones.
Indicators was offering up a nice lengthy long board wave all the way through the cliffs
I just kind of enjoy this angle. Spinners were attempted. A few completed.
To compare to what was happening at OB during the Rip Curl, this was about the size of the better ones.
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^ That last right looks so fun and playful, kinda looks like a semi-double up is about to happen. I bet that was a nice sequence. What's housing for a 3 bedroom rental in SC area? Would I need to be Warren Buffet to afford a place within walking distance? We've outgrown our current pad and my wifes about to shoot me if we don't move.
OT, I would be soooooo stoked to get a little head high action like that last wave. Maybe by Saturday at the south facing breaks![]()
Never in U.S. history has the public chosen leadership this malevolent. The moral clarity of their decision is crystalline, particularly knowing how Trump will regard his slim margin as a “mandate” to do his worst. We’ve learned something about America that we didn’t know, or perhaps didn’t believe, and it’ll forever color our individual judgments of who and what we are.
$2400-$2800 puts you in walking distance to either Pleasure Point (eastside) or West Cliff. Decent sized homes, about 2000-2500 sq ft. But you don't really need (or maybe even want) to be in walking distance. My favorite spots to surf are out of town and always a car ride. But it is worth it. You end up surfing with 0-8 people instead of 7-80. Move a mile from the water, and you can save a few hundred bucks. We are about that distance, and it works out just fine for sunset strolls.
As far as the sequence, the guy dug his rail. He is just coming out of a top turn in the pic, and never really recovered to hit it well again.
Good info, thanks man. It's a long shot for various reasons but SC has always been somewhere that I could see myself living. Seeing photos of overhead surf and nipple deep powder at the 'wood only confirms I'm living in the wrong spot. Now if I could just sell my house, tell my wife to quit her job and then scrap my season pass to mammoth.
Nothing but air drops of death today at my maxed out local spot. I'm still picking sand out of my ears.
Choosing the super-rockered wafer-thin 6'6" was a bad choice. This isn't Hawaii.
Putting the "core" in corporate, one turn at a time.
Metalmücil 2010 - 2013 "Go Home" album is now a free download
The Bonin Petrels
^^I love swell down there, when they get it. It's not always head high and rideable. I've chased swells to SD so many times and had them die out. With the crowd situation, I can definitely see moving out of there. The ability to trunk it some Summers definitely deserves a point or twelve, but you need swell to capitalize on it. Every time I catch a great day in SD. I start pricing houses. Every time I get back to SF, I realize it's probably not a good trade.
"Yo!! Brentley! Ya wanna get faded before work?"
mammoth > kirkwood. 3.5 hr drive > 7 hr drive. So it is a split on that front for me. Mammy and the surrounding bc has way more to offer than the kw to cp region. Still, I do enjoy me that region.
It is pretty crowded in the water up here, but if you are willing to drive away from the crowds, you can still find decent waves that are not too crowded. Or empty even. The whole shark thing seems to scare some folks. Even pros it seems.
Yeah Hugh, North county SD. Since we're on the subject, where are you at? I originally thought Oaxaca but now I'm not sure.
What about Socal waves do you miss, playfulness and glassy conditions?
We have outgrown our current house, so some sort of move is a must. I thought we should consider other locations, at least a season or so.
Ottime nailed it, the 7 hr drive is killing me. I know some peeps brag about making it in under 6 hours but that's doing 90mph and without kids having to stop every couple hours to take a leak.
Baja Norte used to fill my void for waves, if it's waist high in SD then Baja Malibu would be head high to overhead. It's gotten pretty shady down there and with small kids to come home to, it's just not worth it.
Combine those factors with my lack of Eastside knowledge/experience and now you know why I would consider other locations. At least for a season or two
I fondled my quiver today and I think it set me back into reality. I'm sin 2 acl's as of last season and still recovering, so more than likely I'll be grooming it most of this season.
I did a gear check to make sure my shit is ready going into this upcoming winter season. To make sure nothing is loose or about to break, especially my kook cord.
edit: to hide my inner gearwhore
Last edited by Piggity; 11-05-2011 at 04:43 PM.
It was a consistent weekend trip for me since moving her in '99. Mammoth or Baja in my mid 20's was fun. I called it quits a few years ago when the cops started getting impersonated and the Feds de-armed the TJ police force. Not worth my time.
Wish I logged onto here sooner to learn about the Eastside, fucking Jong, I know. Now im an injured jong but your guys info has made me continue to seek out more surf and deeper snow. Sat night jack and cokes getting me all sappy and shit
All I know is the water this last week has turned frigin cold....
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