Binding Mount Paper Templates

[galibier_numero_un]

It's better than I remembered - the front two hole pairs (closest to the ski tip) are the ones that are close (but fine, IMHO). Given a choice, I'd rather have the rear holes of the toe piece a comfortable distance from each other (upward force from back seat landings).

I did this overlay from my mounting templates which I proved to work, but as always, I'd appreciate your verifying this before drilling in your skis ;-)



... Thom

[Live 2 ski]

Got here from binding freedom site.
Hope this is the acceptable way to ask my question or was I to reply to threads to earn the ability to post a new thread?
I spent a lot of time searching this forum but did not find.

Looking for paper template or info to mount Marker M1000 bindings.
Or can it be done by carefully placing on the boot, aligning/centering etc. & marking outline/holes, hopefully leaving room for forward pressure adjustment?
Thanks.

[skimaxpower]

Looking for paper template or info to mount Marker M1000 bindings.

This should do it. I think.

[MegaStoke]

Anyone know what the Salomon Shift mount pattern is looking like? Trying to determine whether or not I'll have overlap issues with my Sego Sloppy Joes currently mounted with Tyrollia Attack 14s.

[Judo Chop!]

Anyone know what the Salomon Shift mount pattern is looking like?

very good question. I'm guessing a lot of us will also be curious if it conflicts with a kingpin mount.

[skibums]

I just tried to test mount my salomon STH (14s i think, and year i want to say 2012) on some ply wood with the template from the first page of the thread and it did not work. I only tried the heel plate and the screw holes were too close together by a fairly good margin. I measured the ruler on the printout and its not coming out to 8 inches like its stated though its printed on 8.5 X 11 paper. Has anyone else had this problem?

[::: :::]

Print scale needs to be fixed...


Or, you get the toe & heel mixed up?

[skibums]

Print scale needs to be fixed...


Or, you get the toe & heel mixed up?

Wait there is a heel and toe of a binding????.....

I printed on 8.5x11. What scale needs to changed? Anyone know how to check this?

[waxoff]

Wait there is a heel and toe of a binding????.....

I printed on 8.5x11. What scale needs to changed? Anyone know how to check this?

It's the printer settings. They need to be, true to scale, 100%, or no scaling or whatever similar option you have. Don't choose scale to fit paper.

[AlpiNord]

Wait there is a heel and toe of a binding????.....

I printed on 8.5x11. What scale needs to changed? Anyone know how to check this?

Measure the scale.

If you measure less than scale: scale/your measurement*100=print scale percentage
If you measure greater than scale: your measurement/scale*100=print scale percentage

[MRR11]

Wait there is a heel and toe of a binding????.....

I printed on 8.5x11. What scale needs to changed? Anyone know how to check this?

So people here try to help you with what is a rather elementary question, you then respond with sarcasm, and then ask another [what some would call stupid] question? And what's with the recent trend of people just wanting spoon-fed answers without bothering to read and learn for themselves?

But to answer your question, like SoooL stated, it's likely you have the "fit to page" or custom scale option selected in your print settings. Change that to "actual size", reprint, and check your scale again with ruler.

[::: :::]

Many thanks for this template! I successfully mounted a pair of Atomic STH2s using this template last night and the holes were all bang on. I was a little nervous when eyeballing my boot length before mounting, so I did a test mount on plywood and it turned out just fine. I ended up moving to the 330 bsl line for my 325mm boots, and I'm still almost at the rear of the binding's adjustment range, so the test mount was a good idea I think.

I mounted my New HOJI yesterday with a Template I found on here for the STH2. I double checked the scale and it was scaled correctly. I put the 335 line of the template on my mount line. Problem I'm having is my 335 bsl boot requires the binding to be all the way back in the adjustment and once the FWD pressure is set it's maxed out. Shouldn't I be in the middle of the adjustment area?
It's my 7-8th time mounting bindings my self. 1st time having a problem. Wondering if I should re-mount them at 345...

Billy, Neil

I’m coming back to this because it is sticking in my noggin

I mounted with no problem, I thought.
But my BSL is 316. When I first read your post, I thought you might be at an extreme of the range. But it’s just a function of length.

Following the paper template and locating the actual 316 line on the templates (not just going with the closest 5mm line and adjusting from there) put me at the back end of the track. Forward pressure is fine.

Here’s a photo I took when I did a plywood test mount


The more I think about it, I would expect to be in the middle of the track if the template is set up correctly. I’d expect some tolerance to each side (longer & shorter) since I targeted my exact BSL. I was having a conversation about letting my brother try my skis (he’s got a longer BSL) and realized I couldn’t accommodate his boots the way it’s currently set up.


I’m reticent to pull the bindings since they’re working for me, but I think it’s worth a warning for other mags

STH2 template needs an edit, IMO
It seems like the heel needs to move back 10-15mm (or equal toe & heel shift relative to center)

(if I pull these bindings I will certainly come back and offer a proposed update to the template)

[skibums]

So people here try to help you with what is a rather elementary question, you then respond with sarcasm, and then ask another [what some would call stupid] question? And what's with the recent trend of people just wanting spoon-fed answers without bothering to read and learn for themselves?

But to answer your question, like SoooL stated, it's likely you have the "fit to page" or custom scale option selected in your print settings. Change that to "actual size", reprint, and check your scale again with ruler.

I really dont understand this. I see so many people respond like this guy just did on this site, they get so upset when they think someones question isnt advanced enough or too "elementary". The person i responded to was obviously was making a joke "maybe you mixed up the heel and the toe" and i made a joke in reply. I have absolutely no ill will whatsoever. My printer was already set to 100% scale so i wanted to double check with people here what to do in this situation. The whole point of this type of thread is to help people, clearly i was confused and dont want to screw up my mount, but because you have decided you are the police of whats a legitimate question and what isnt you come on here and try to demean me for it. Its sort of hilarious, Why in the world would you let this bother you?

[MRR11]

You asked how to check/change the print scale, which can be easily found via a quick Google search (as well as the first post of this thread and many more times throughout). You also confirmed that your scaling had already been already set to 100%, although you never mentioned that until this evening. That is what would be an obvious (and likely) culprit -- and is not the same as simply printing on 8.5x11 paper as you repeatedly stated above. After 49 pages, this thread can do without additional questions on print scaling.

So did you get your issue resolved, and if so, what was the problem so other people can learn from your misfortune? If it's not resolved, I would still try selecting actual size for scaling instead of 100% (not sure if that makes a difference), perhaps try a different printer as sometimes they still print a bit off (like one at my work does), or try changing the percentage above or below 100% until it measures out correctly.

And I'm glad you found my previous response hilarious, well sort of hilarious at least. I wish my wife would appreciate my sense of humor more often

[prsboogie]

You asked how to check/change the print scale, which can be easily found via a quick Google search (as well as the first post of this thread and many more times throughout). You also confirmed that your scaling had already been already set to 100%, although you never mentioned that until this evening. That is what would be an obvious (and likely) culprit -- and is not the same as simply printing on 8.5x11 paper as you repeatedly stated above. After 49 pages, this thread can do without additional questions on print scaling.

So did you get your issue resolved, and if so, what was the problem so other people can learn from your misfortune? If it's not resolved, I would still try selecting actual size for scaling instead of 100% (not sure if that makes a difference), perhaps try a different printer as sometimes they still print a bit off (like one at my work does), or try changing the percentage above or below 100% until it measures out correctly.

And I'm glad you found my previous response hilarious, well sort of hilarious at least. I wish my wife would appreciate my sense of humor more often

I've tried several times to print out templates and increased the % to the point where you cannot read the BSL markings anymore and still cannot get 20cm/8inch to line up. Not sure if it's just my printer or if others have had an issue with this.

Sent from my XT1650 using TGR Forums mobile app

[dkny2la]

I just downloaded and printed the Salomon template from the first page (salomon_paper_template_R6.pdf) and the scale correctly measures 8".
Note: I did have to select "Scaling Type: None" in my print settings.

[MegaStoke]

Take the PDF to Kinkos and have them print it at 100% scale on transparency paper. Scaling issue solved, with the additional benefit for the transparency being more durable and easier to work with

[waxoff]

Billy, Neil

I’m coming back to this because it is sticking in my noggin

I mounted with no problem, I thought.
But my BSL is 316. When I first read your post, I thought you might be at an extreme of the range. But it’s just a function of length.

Following the paper template and locating the actual 316 line on the templates (not just going with the closest 5mm line and adjusting from there) put me at the back end of the track. Forward pressure is fine.

Here’s a photo I took when I did a plywood test mount


The more I think about it, I would expect to be in the middle of the track if the template is set up correctly. I’d expect some tolerance to each side (longer & shorter) since I targeted my exact BSL. I was having a conversation about letting my brother try my skis (he’s got a longer BSL) and realized I couldn’t accommodate his boots the way it’s currently set up.


I’m reticent to pull the bindings since they’re working for me, but I think it’s worth a warning for other mags

STH2 template needs an edit, IMO
It seems like the heel needs to move back 10-15mm (or equal toe & heel shift relative to center)

(if I pull these bindings I will certainly come back and offer a proposed update to the template)

I dunno where you got the idea of being too far back in the range? I'd say you're spot on the middle. There's even a mid mount mark on the back end of the track (see my pic), right where your worm screw ends in your pic, from there you can adjust another cm back (basically to the end of the flat platform behind the track)...

[::: :::]

SoooL, thanks for the response. Shows what I know — first Salomon binding mount for me. How do you know when it’s out the back, then? Do you just run out of movement, ie it locks up?

[gregorys]

This will get lost in the thread, but I think there some misunderstanding about scaling and when you might need to change it.

Even if your PDF reader has scaling set to 100% when you print, that DOES NOT mean that the print you get will match in scale to the original PDF. [i.e. 10cm in the designed PDF actually outputs a 10 cm line/dimension.] It should, and probably most of the time it is, or is really close. But not always.

1) Thus, the way to fix/check this is to print with no scaling initially.
2) Now take a ruler.
3) If that 10cm line is 9.5cm instead, then you need to set the scaling to around 105%. If it's 10.5cm [~95%] ... or some other length, adjust accordingly.
4) Now reprint.
5) Repeat steps 2-4 until what prints on your printer matches the given dimensions on the PDF.

Once that's done and they match - print several. Mark them so you know they are the "good" ones, and throw all the tests away - I'd probably suggest shredding them too - you really don't want to pick a bad/wrong one up and use it by accident. [And I know first hand that it's really easy to do. Fortunately I've never actually done a real mount with one.]

The extras save you from having to repeat those steps above, should you need another copy.

HTH
-Greg

[waxoff]

SoooL, thanks for the response. Shows what I know — first Salomon binding mount for me. How do you know when it’s out the back, then? Do you just run out of movement, ie it locks up?

Yes, (providing you have installed the mount plate the right way, i.e. front pointing forward, the heel piece goes onto it from the front where the track is open and...) as the track ends the worm screw can't get past that, don't force it.

[K2TARRAGONA]

Dear! We need template TYROLIA AMBITION 10 HEAD BRAKE 85 (C) 2017 TYROLIA AMBITION 10 HEAD 2017


Enviado desde mi iPhone utilizando TGR Forums

[K2TARRAGONA]

Tyrolia touring


Enviado desde mi iPhone utilizando TGR Forums

[neufox47]

Anyone have the mojo18 template?

[doebedoe]

Anyone have the mojo18 template?

Same thing as basically every other tyrolia. The attack, mojo, etc. All same pattern.